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#1. RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:24:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) No he doesn't. This is a guy who rubbed his face all over my rear window after I washed the car. I bet he's chuckling right now just reading it and remember what he did. He needs a kick in the *ss is what he needs :o) --- Robert Chay <lists@rchay.com> wrote: > Someone needs a hug. > > Not from me... Just sayin'. > > -----Original Message----- > > From: slafredo@classicflytyer.com > > Sorry I must be in a bad mood today. :) Nothing personal.
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#2. Fwd: Re: [E36M3] '95 E36 M3 - Head Gasket and Stud Kits - from David Ngo
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:34:52 -0700 (PDT) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: Fwd: Re: [E36M3] '95 E36 M3 - Head Gasket and Stud Kits --- David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:34:17 -0700 (PDT) > From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] '95 E36 M3 - Head Gasket and > Stud Kits > To: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > > When Wayne, Chester, and I did my head gasket (well, > much more Wayne and Chester than me :) ), I called > around and asked several vendors about aftermarket > head gaskets. They all told me that unless I was > using forced induction, the stock head gasket was > plenty strong. Bimmerworld, Turner, and even BMP > gave > me the same info, FWIW. > > Dave > > --- Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> wrote: > > Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 12:42:09 -0700 (PDT) > > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] '95 E36 M3 - Head Gasket and > > Stud Kits > > > > On Fri, May 6, 2005 12:36 pm, Rich Dorffer said: > > > So, I might as well go for an upgrade over a > stock > > gasket IMO. As a > > > result, I think the > > > multi-layered steel head gasket (from VAC > > Motorsports) > > > > And I think a similar one is available from BMP. > > > > > Anyone else do this? > > > > Not me personally, but I know my mechanic (Bill > > Arnold) uses these head > > gaskets and EVERY '95 M3 that he does a head > gasket > > on. Especially tracked > > and/or raced cars. > > > > Do it. > > > > (I have no opinion on the stud kit.) > > > > Cheers, > > Jim Bassett > > 1998 M3/4 - fresh head with stock gasket > > 1993 325is #44 JP - slightly less-fresh head with > > stock gasket :-) > >
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:42:51 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) On Fri, May 6, 2005 1:16 pm, Scott Spangenberg said: > I suppose I sound like that guy you describe, but I'm > really not :-) I'm the guy who wins the PAX index at > autocrosses with a G Stock Dodge Neon. Those two things are not necessarily mutually-exclusive :-) Jim Bassett - glad Scott's taking all this in the spirit it's intended :-)
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#4. Re: '95 E36 M3 - Head Gasket and Stud Kits - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 15:47:59 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: '95 E36 M3 - Head Gasket and Stud Kits on 5/6/05 2:55 PM, Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> wrote: > So, I might as well go for an upgrade over a stock gasket IMO. As a result, I > think the multi-layered steel head gasket (from VAC Motorsports) and possibly > adding their ARP stud kit makes sense. Hey, I've seen your car smoke at the track and I believe it! BMP seems to be permanently out of their special gasket. Wish I'd known about the VAC version when I did mine last year. Sounds like it's worth trying. Not so sure about the studs though. A few months ago I read somebody's horror story of one breaking during installation and ARP wouldn't even replace it. It's not clear to me that the stock head bolts are deficient, unless maybe for running a turbo with monster boost. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#5. Re: Sway Bar End Links - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 16:50:58 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: Sway Bar End Links Thanks for all the feedback. I went with a pair from Ground Control. I wanted to replace both anyways, and their price for a pair is reasonable at $99. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#6. RE: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:52:54 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 11:57:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) I have been venting to several of my friends lately about how dumb the M3 shifter design is. My '87 325is has a poor feeling shifter as well, but I don't think those cars are as prone to the "money shift". Shifting technique comes to mind - Brake and down shift in a straight line. <snip>I want to fix this bad design as well as I can. <snip> What about the engine mounts? <snip> Group 'N' motor mounts, fresh shifter components, and this http://store.yahoo.com/jtdesigns/higpertranbr.html or these http://store.yahoo.com/jtdesigns/stntranrine3.html from http://www.jt-designs.com/ KLBurgess 99M3/2
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#7. RE: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 16:57:41 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: RE: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) Hi Scott, My thoughts: I have the UUC short shifter, and like it, but would not suggest it prevents against the money shift. I had the tranny mount bushing upgrade, and thought the improvement was minor, and would not suggest it prevents against the money shift. I recently installed the JTD tranny mount, and do notice more vibration in the passenger compartment, but have not determined whether it will prevent against the money shift. I have successfully avoid making the money shift for 7 years, but only about 20 track days with the M3. I have put about 110k miles on the car though. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#8. Re: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 16:36:02 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) on 5/6/05 2:15 PM, Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> wrote: Well, now that you've taken the ritual flogging from the List members... <g> I'm not sure I'm in total agreement about manifest shortfalls in the shift linkage design, but that said there are various parts that can and do wear. You say you have a 95, so chances are it has enough miles to be affected. I have an old original UUC short shift kit (rebent Z3 lever) to which I later added the ERK (add-on bearing cup support which raises the pivot point for more direct action and improved lower end clearance). This has been on the car for at least 65K miles, and I felt that it had developed too much slop so decided to refresh the parts. Inspection showed that the shaft pivot ball and cup were fine. The main shift carrier casting is retained by a pin at the front and a rubber bushing at the rear. I don't think the front is subject to much wear, but I wondered about the rubber bushing since it gets fairly well baked by the exhaust below it. Unfortunately you really can't replace it without removing both the exhaust and driveshaft. However I had these out for an unrelated job, so put in a new bushing while I was there. Looking a the one I removed, which seemed to be in OK condition, I doubt this made much difference. The shift rod has 90 degree pins that engage the selector joint at the gearbox and the lower end of the shift lever. This design means that there's a twisting load when you shift, which doesn't seem like a good thing. UUC makes a replacement rod with forked ends that they call the DSSR: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/dssr which seemed like it might be a good idea, so I ordered one. This is kind of expensive, but then again it's machined from a solid lump of stainless steel and is one hefty part. It comes with nicely bullet-ended pins which slip firmly but smoothly in place. Installation of the DSSR eliminated about half the play in the lever and restored a distinctly more mechanical feeling to the shift action. I didn't replace the shift lever, whose lower bushing is probably worn somewhat oversize, because I didn't feel like buying a replacement right now, but may do so later. I also didn't replace the shifter joint at the gearbox because it's way too hard to get to. Overall I feel this was a very satisfactory refresh which took care of much of the static play. (I should also mention an internal gearbox fault that sometime occurs which reduces or eliminates the spring loading between the 3/4 and 5 gear planes. This is externally fixable, but you have to drop the gearbox to do it.) As far as dynamic play is concerned you should make sure that your motor mounts are in good condition, which on a 10 year old car they may not be. You already know about uprated transmission mounts. The next enabling factor in the money shift is the gearbox: it's too damn good. The synchros are so effective that it'll happily let you engage 2nd instead of 4th even at over 100 mph. Most cars won't. And lastly there's human error - so don't do that! Seriously, in 8 years of track driving I've come close (but not too close...) to the money shift only twice, and both times it was due to brain fade. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#9. Re: Turner end links front sways - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 16:38:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Turner end links front sways on 5/6/05 2:15 PM, Msebmwman@aol.com wrote: > Turner makes them. I've got one on my car. You can use the stock one on one > side and a Turner adjustable on the other side. As far as I know and can > tell, you really only need to be able to adjust one side. I don't think there > are any geometry issues. Mines on a 27 mm RD Sport sway with 3 holes on each > side, settings on my car are full soft both sides. GC also makes them, and their pair cost the same as Turner's one. The advantage of the pair is that you can also adjust the swaybar position for any needed clearance, not just dial out preload. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) - from slafredo@classicflytyer.com
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 14:56:04 -0700 From: <slafredo@classicflytyer.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) Not a Chester story but almost. :) If you opened Webster's back then to the work ANAL there was a picture of you, Chester, next to the definition. Need I say more. ;) -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Fri 05/06/2005 1:26 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:24:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shifters ... what's best? (kinda long and venting) No he doesn't. This is a guy who rubbed his face all over my rear window after I washed the car. I bet he's chuckling right now just reading it and remember what he did. He needs a kick in the *ss is what he needs :o) --- Robert Chay <lists@rchay.com> wrote: > Someone needs a hug. > > Not from me... Just sayin'. > > -----Original Message----- > > From: slafredo@classicflytyer.com > > Sorry I must be in a bad mood today. :) Nothing personal. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#11. Multilayer head gaskets and hardware - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 18:00:17 -0400 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: Multilayer head gaskets and hardware Rich et al, I carry the same multilayer steel head gaskets, the S50 application retails for $199. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/catalog/headgkt.htm As for studs, personally I'm a fan of Raceware products. I challenge anyone to show that either Raceware or ARP is better than the other so you can't really go wrong here. My preferenc to Raceware is based mostly on them being located about 30 mins from me, I like to support my local shops. ; ) Anyway, the Raceware studs retail for $229, full kit including studs, washers, nuts. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/catalog/raceware.htm As an E36 M3 list sponsor, I offer a 10% discount on most items to any list member. In this case, the discount would apply. I currently am out of stock on the head gaskets but I have them on order and am expecting them shortly. I will call on Monday to confirm delivery date. VAC or Evosport may have them in stock now. I do not have the studs in stock but they're local and Raceware keeps stock up so that's as good as in, same day turn around. Regarding the use of these items, having seen the multilayer head gasket, I definitely think it's worth the added cost, it's VERY nice. For a car that is driven on the track I think it's a no brainer. For a street car it's an item that will only help in the long run. I once had an engine builder that I work with tell me that studs were useless on an S50. But this I do not believe. If properly installed, you are achieve a more evenly distributed clamp force with the studs. And the studs are resuable. Again, I don't see how this can hurt, it will only help. One other thought on studs, generally they will increase the clamp load on the system. This can cause a change in the distortion in the cylinder walls. On an engine that is being built from the bottom up, this is not a problem because the block will be machined using a honing plate with the studs so that the proper loading is represented. Since you are only replacing the head gasket, I might consider NOT using the studs. Your rings will likely wear faster. You might wanna consult your local mehcanic buddy and ask his opinion, I suspect he will concur. Hope this helps. Jack Money #86 CM M3 Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com