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#1. Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing Installation Question - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 22:01:14 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing Installation Question > You're not talking about the thin dust shield for the bearing hat, correct? correct. > If > you're talking about that big washer that looks like a four leaf clover (well, > kinda), it has curvature to it on one side. So if you installed it upside > down, that could crack it. Or, the only other possibility is if it somehow got > hung up on the threads as you tightened the nut... > BTW, those washers are f*cking expensive! > That's it, so I do need to get the exact replacement? Thanks Chester! Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing Installation Question - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 19:42:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing Installation Question --- Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net wrote: > > hung up on the threads as you tightened the nut... > > BTW, those washers are f*cking expensive! > > > > That's it, so I do need to get the exact replacement? Yep. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=31_0239&hg=31&fg=10 Definitely not the price of a simple washer. Imagine my surprise when I ordered the new dust shields, new strut nut and new conical washers.... And then to get a bill a few weeks later that showed $7/washer! Chester
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing Installation Question - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 22:47:54 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Strut Bearing Installation Question > http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=31_0239&hg=31&fg=10 Great, thanks! Guess I will be ordering some $7 washers too :) Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#4. RE: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 00:17:56 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' At 10:05 PM 5/11/2005, Jake wrote: >Haven't read entire thread so I may be repeating here. > >While the various uprated tranny mounts, 'enforcers' etc. are a step up in >preventing unwanted tranny rotation, since it appears the root cause of >the issue is the 'triangle' mounting arrangement that allows the tranny >rotation. > >Bimmerworlds 'driveline stabilizer' would seem to be a good remedy. Not >the easisest install, but looks good. Anybody able to offer first person >results? > >http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/driveline-stabilizer.htm VERY interesting - wonder where it attaches. Ideally - I would think some sort of movement restriction at the top of the engine would be idea... that is where the most movement will be seen since it is furthest away from the center of rotation (which would be around the crankshaft/transmission/driveshaft axis.) I can begin to think of a device using something like the upper engine support - designed to for the same thing - that was/is used on Volvo's.. let me see if I can find a photo of it.. Here is an "improved" version: http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=256&NodeID=443&RootID=629 If you can imagine the right side of this sort of bracket fastening to part of the frame (or perhaps a strut bar) - and the mount itself fastening to a bracket off the engine. I can. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ NJ SHore BMW Riders - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ E39 Enthusiasts Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39/ '03 525iT, '98 M3C/5, '87 K75S
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#5. Brake Problems... - from Som Naderi
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 20:34:20 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Brake Problems... Group, I've got some problems with my brakes, and I'm thinking I'm not going to have them ready by Thunderhill this weekend -- which really really bums me out. Last weekend I swapped out my rotors/pads/brake lines (slotted rotors, HP+ pads, stainless steel lines). I have since flushed the brakes 4 times and I: a) still have a squishy brake pedal feeling, though it's gotten slightly better each time b) get a violent shudder when I brake hard enough to activate the ABS My brake bleed techniques were as follows: 1st Attempt: Filled pressure bleeder, attached to fluid reservoir, pumped to 15 psi, went to each wheel (attached the bleed hose, opened bleed valve, let run for about 15 seconds *after* the last air bubble I saw, closed bleed valve), unscrewed pressure bleeder from bottle (there was no button), trying to slosh out some extra fluid (but not much, still a tad over max line), replaced reservoir cap. 2nd Attempt: Same as first. 3rd Attempt: Same as first, except this time had a 2nd person in the car. The bleed procedure was like this: press brake -- open valve -- close valve -- release brake. Did this 3 times at each wheel. 4th Attempt: Same as first, except this time the brake pressing procedure went like this: press brake -- open valve -- press brake 10 times -- on last press, closed bleeder before brake was released. * Between each attempt I drove the car and tried several hard, ABS-activating brakes. Each time I started driving the car, I got a squishy pedal feel, though it got progressively better with each bleed (but still not good enough after the 4th attempt). Each time, as the brakes warmed up, the initial grab of the brakes got a little better. However, as the brakes warm up, the hard stops get worse. When the ABS activates, it shudders VERY violently in the front. The wheels lock a little (some chirping sounds) and all around feels like I'm coming to stop over gravel or *rough* asphalt. It still stops, fairly quickly, and it still stops evenly -- the car doesn't seem to brake one way more than the other. Here's what didn't happen: I didn't let the pressure bleeder bottle go dry and I didn't let air go back through the bleeder valve (it was a long clear hose). I haven't had any leaks below the car over the last 4 or 5 days. I checked out 3 hoses coming out of the brake reservoir and there's no sign of leaking around them (two of the hoses have clamps, the other comes out from near the top and doesn't have a clamp). I don't know if there are more. I couldn't see the connection between the MC and the reservoir too well. Here's what did happen: When I released the pressure from the pressure bleeder, all 4 times I would get air bubbles coming out of the fluid reservoir. I suspect whatever my problem is, this is linked to it (maybe that's a "duh", but oh well). After the violent shaking stops, my brake pads squeeled significantly more on more casual braking later. I don't anticipate this'll have much to do with it, since I figure it's just getting hot and I likely didn't put enough anti- squeel on it, but it's still a possible data point. * What would be the likely culprits here? I heard issues with older master cylinders going bad if you pressed the brakes while bleeding, but I didn't think that applied if you used the pressure bleeder (it had something to do with being able to press the pistons too far into the "possibly corroded area" in the MC breaking seals blah blah blah). Did I damage my MC? I don't think I did anything particularly stupid compressing the pistons in the calipers, but could I have messed something up there? Between the 3rd and 4th attempt, I've been driving the car for about 3 days. The brakes haven't lost any of their feel, so I've been a little hesitant to believe there's a leak in the lines. * Data point: I have AST. I did a whole bunch of looking online and everyone pretty much said as long as I didn't let the pressure bleeder/reservoir go dry that I would be okay with bleeding the brakes myself. Data Point: I'm using Super Blue. Data Point: 1998 M3 with 87k miles and likely original calipers. * If you read this, I really appreciate it. If you can help me out, I would appreciate it even more. Thank you! - Som
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#6. Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:40:13 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' on 5/11/05 9:05 PM, jakeadavis@comcast.net wrote: > Bimmerworlds 'driveline stabilizer' would seem to be a good remedy. Not the > easisest install, but looks good. Anybody able to offer first person results? I posted about this last year. Recap: - Nicely designed and made, kinda pricey. - Mine broke the engine side welded bracket at the first track event. I rewelded it. - Then it broke the frame side welded bracket. This is much tougher to fix, since the bracket itself had to be welded to the frame rail and so can't be removed to fix, but you can't get to it once installed (see below). James Clay explained that their normal welder was down and my early example was improperly welded using other equipment. My observation is that they were welded OK but only on one side of the T-joint when they should have been welded on both (i.e. operator error, not equipment). This allowed the weld to flex, fatigue and fail. I installed mine while the front suspension and subframe were off the car for unrelated reasons. Bimmerworld says they can be welded in without doing that, but if so then they must have trained welding Gerbils with teeny-tiny little MIG welders to crawl in there and do it. I'm not that skilful (or small). BTW Bimmerworld took care of me regarding these failures so I have no complaint on that score. I haven't yet reinstalled the stabilizer, but will if/when I have occasion to drop the subframe again. Bottom line: good concept, check the execution, non-trivial installation. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#7. Re: Strut Bearing Installation Question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:56:29 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Strut Bearing Installation Question on 5/11/05 9:05 PM, <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> wrote: > So, my question is, am I using too much torque, or is the washer something > special or other? Look at the original thrust washer again: the top surface is conical so that the outer edge doesn't bind against the strut hat body when the centre is against the strut bearing inner race. Also be sure that if your shock shaft has a tapered step that you've installed the other special adapter that fits to the taper. I think it's part #11 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=31_0420 &hg=31&fg=10 Otherwise the taper will wedge into the thrust washer and break it. If the shaft has a 90 degree step then you don't need the extra part. The hardened taper profile thrust washer you broke is NOT a hardware store part. It's part #7 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=31_0239 &hg=31&fg=10 For some reason these do break on modded suspensions. I keep a couple on hand just in case. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:42:50 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' >Bottom line: good concept, check the execution, non-trivial installation. Neil, would you see any point in installing this kit into a car with solid bushings? (ie. Al motor mounts, trans mounts, diff mounts). I wonder if it's overkill at that point. -Carlos.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Brake Problems... - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 05:52:30 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Problems... Som- It sounds like you may have air in the ABS pump and/or the rest of the system. The easy answer is to have the complete system flushed by the dealer or someone who has the equipment necessary to activate the ABS pumps while bleeding. Another possibility is to bleed, drive the car and activate the ABS a few times, re-bleed and repeat this process until you have no more problems with the ABS. You probably introduced air into the system by using the pressure bleeder the way you did. When you fill the tank of the pressure bleeder with fluid, then pump it up, it tends to aerate the fluid. Then you pump this fluid into your system. You mentioned tiny air bubbles. I still use a pressure bleeder, but I never put fluid in the pressure tank. I just use the tank as a source of pressure on the car's resevoir. I have to fill the car's resevoir a few times, but haven't had any problems doing it this way. Good luck and I hope to see you out there. I'll be driving Fri and spectating Sat. Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 9:36 PM Subject: [E36M3] Brake Problems... > Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 20:34:20 -0800 > From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> > Subject: Brake Problems... > > Group, > > I've got some problems with my brakes, and I'm thinking I'm not going to have > them ready by Thunderhill this weekend -- which really really bums me out. > > Last weekend I swapped out my rotors/pads/brake lines (slotted rotors, HP+ > pads, stainless steel lines). I have since flushed the brakes 4 times and I: > > a) still have a squishy brake pedal feeling, though it's gotten slightly > better each time > b) get a violent shudder when I brake hard enough to activate the ABS > > My brake bleed techniques were as follows: > > 1st Attempt: Filled pressure bleeder, attached to fluid reservoir, pumped to > 15 psi, went to each wheel (attached the bleed hose, opened bleed valve, let > run for about 15 seconds *after* the last air bubble I saw, closed bleed > valve), unscrewed pressure bleeder from bottle (there was no button), trying > to slosh out some extra fluid (but not much, still a tad over max line), > replaced reservoir cap. > > 2nd Attempt: Same as first. > > 3rd Attempt: Same as first, except this time had a 2nd person in the car. > The bleed procedure was like this: press brake -- open valve -- close valve -- > release brake. Did this 3 times at each wheel. > > 4th Attempt: Same as first, except this time the brake pressing procedure > went like this: press brake -- open valve -- press brake 10 times -- on last > press, closed bleeder before brake was released. > > * > > Between each attempt I drove the car and tried several hard, ABS-activating > brakes. Each time I started driving the car, I got a squishy pedal feel, > though it got progressively better with each bleed (but still not good enough > after the 4th attempt). > > Each time, as the brakes warmed up, the initial grab of the brakes got a > little better. However, as the brakes warm up, the hard stops get worse. > When the ABS activates, it shudders VERY violently in the front. The wheels > lock a little (some chirping sounds) and all around feels like I'm coming to > stop over gravel or *rough* asphalt. It still stops, fairly quickly, and it > still stops evenly -- the car doesn't seem to brake one way more than the > other. > > Here's what didn't happen: I didn't let the pressure bleeder bottle go dry > and I didn't let air go back through the bleeder valve (it was a long clear > hose). I haven't had any leaks below the car over the last 4 or 5 days. I > checked out 3 hoses coming out of the brake reservoir and there's no sign of > leaking around them (two of the hoses have clamps, the other comes out from > near the top and doesn't have a clamp). I don't know if there are more. I > couldn't see the connection between the MC and the reservoir too well. > > Here's what did happen: When I released the pressure from the pressure > bleeder, all 4 times I would get air bubbles coming out of the fluid > reservoir. I suspect whatever my problem is, this is linked to it (maybe > that's a "duh", but oh well). > > After the violent shaking stops, my brake pads squeeled significantly more on > more casual braking later. I don't anticipate this'll have much to do with > it, since I figure it's just getting hot and I likely didn't put enough anti- > squeel on it, but it's still a possible data point. > > * > > What would be the likely culprits here? I heard issues with older master > cylinders going bad if you pressed the brakes while bleeding, but I didn't > think that applied if you used the pressure bleeder (it had something to do > with being able to press the pistons too far into the "possibly corroded > area" in the MC breaking seals blah blah blah). Did I damage my MC? I don't > think I did anything particularly stupid compressing the pistons in the > calipers, but could I have messed something up there? > > Between the 3rd and 4th attempt, I've been driving the car for about 3 days. > The brakes haven't lost any of their feel, so I've been a little hesitant to > believe there's a leak in the lines. > > * > > Data point: I have AST. I did a whole bunch of looking online and everyone > pretty much said as long as I didn't let the pressure bleeder/reservoir go > dry that I would be okay with bleeding the brakes myself. > > Data Point: I'm using Super Blue. > > Data Point: 1998 M3 with 87k miles and likely original calipers. > > * > > If you read this, I really appreciate it. If you can help me out, I would > appreciate it even more. Thank you! > > - Som > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Brake Problems... - from Robert Brooks
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 07:13:46 -0600 From: Robert Brooks <m3rb@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Problems... > >Another possibility is to bleed, drive the car and activate the ABS a few >times, re-bleed and repeat this process until you have no more problems with >the ABS. > > > It doesn't seem that this is likely to work, since the fluid doesn't move significantly under operation, it just gets pressurized and depressurized. Perhaps cracking the most distant bleeder, filling the reservoir to the max, and then operating the ABS would have a better chance (followed by a full bleed). Binding a wad of towels or something to absorb the leaking fluid would be a nice touch. This should allow the bubbles to propagate out of the ABS branch of the system.
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#11. RE: Cage installations? - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 06:14:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Vern Anderson <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Cage installations? I can't speak for BMWCCA Modified class(es), but Stock and Prepared both allow bolt-in cages, the key difference is in Prepared you can tie the cage to the rear shock towers if you want. Both classes allow an additional foot protection downbar as long as it doesn't tie to the front strut tower. I went with a bolt-in because I already had the TCK rollbar and I had purchased their front bolt-in attachment a few years ago. If you're not 100% sure of exactly what you want for your car, or if you're not 100% certain what you're going to do with it (club race, track only, etc), don't discount a good bolt-in. I plan on putting in a custom weld-in in about 1-1.5 years after I get a few seasons of racing under my belt and decide exactly what I want permanently. I agree that if you're going to do a weld-in, go to an experienced and highly reputable cage builder, don't just look for a good welder. A good cage builder can offer recommendations on the cage design instead of just welding what you think is best. Vern #186 IP