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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:15:54 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' on 5/12/05 7:42 AM, Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com at Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com wrote: > Neil, would you see any point in installing this kit into a car with solid > bushings? (ie. Al motor mounts, trans mounts, diff mounts). I wonder if > it's overkill at that point. I imagine you're right. However if using solid motor mounts you'll need to weld in reinforcements to the front subframe in the recessed area where they mount. Otherwise it's crack. Turner has parts for this. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#2. Re: Strut Bearing Installation Question - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:26:47 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: Strut Bearing Installation Question Thanks Neil, Interesting. I had installed one strut with the adapter (#11), and one with out. So when I found the washer (#6) fractured on that side, I thought it was due to my neglect in installing that part, but when I found the second washer fractured on the passenger side, I decided it wasn't the likely cause. Fyi, the top of the Koni strut is tapered, so the #11 adapters should be used.. > For some reason these do break on modded suspensions. I keep a couple on > hand just in case. What symptoms have you seen, or heard of, when they break? Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#3. Re: Strut Bearing Installation Question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:39:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Strut Bearing Installation Question on 5/12/05 8:26 AM, Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net at Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net wrote: >> For some reason these do break on modded suspensions. I keep a couple on >> hand just in case. > > What symptoms have you seen, or heard of, when they break? None, although I suppose the thrust washer might eventually fracture in two and fall out. I've found them in the course of routine disassembly. It's an odd thing. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#4. Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:03:27 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' on 5/12/05 8:25 AM, Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: > VERY interesting - wonder where it attaches. To unused motor mount holes on the block below the exhaust manifold. The outer end bracket is welded to the frame rail nearby. > Ideally - I would think some sort of movement restriction at the top of the > engine would be idea... that is where the most movement will be seen since it > is furthest away from the center of rotation (which would be around the > crankshaft/transmission/driveshaft axis.) Yes, exactly. Unfortunately the E36 engine compartment is fairly densely packed, so coming up with a top end solution is tougher without making a more expensive or elaborately tooled support like the nice Volvo bracket you referenced. The BW stay resembles an adjustable front swaybar link plus a couple of simple welded (or not...) steel brackets. I think it's really intended for racing or serious track use with a limited market potential, so elaborate design and tooling probably was avoided; its mounting location also isn't optimal. I also think the BW stay would have been better if, again like the Volvo part, it had included a resilient element at one end. If/when I reinstall mine I'll probably make this modification myself. I'd like to introduce a rubber or poly busing at the outer end. I'm not a fan of hard mounting stuff that vibrates; seems like a recipe for something to crack. I think I might recall that people used to sell top end engine stays for the (notoriously buzzy) E30 M3. Any E30 guys confirm? Carlos? Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from Bruce H
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 14:13:33 +0000 From: gobuffs93@comcast.net (Bruce H) Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' Never heard of such a thing, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Bruce 95 M3 88 M3 > Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:03:27 -0500 > From: Neil Maller to crack. > > I think I might recall that people used to sell top end engine stays for the > (notoriously buzzy) E30 M3. Any E30 guys confirm? Carlos? > > Neil
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 10:55:18 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' >Never heard of such a thing, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I haven't either. The one top end one that I've seen was on a Gen3 Mazda RX-7 and it incorporated a small damper instead of the heim jointed sway bar link looking one that BW sells. -Carlos.
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#7. Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' - from air2daa@insightbb.com
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 15:03:41 +0000 From: air2daa@insightbb.com Subject: Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' Neil, I have the BW bracket for my car but have not installed it yet, partly because it required welding which I'm not the best at and partly due to my concern of vibration issues causing something to crack. What are your thoughts about once this is installed, leaving it installed on the street or should it be just for track events and one of those items that I install, pull out at the track? I would also be interested in seeing what ever you come up with for a bushing as I assume this would be to leave it on the car the whole time. Thanks, Dave A 95 ///M3 > Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:03:27 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Was shifters...now preventing 'money shift' > > on 5/12/05 8:25 AM, Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > VERY interesting - wonder where it attaches. > > To unused motor mount holes on the block below the exhaust manifold. The > outer end bracket is welded to the frame rail nearby. > > > Ideally - I would think some sort of movement restriction at the top of the > > engine would be idea... that is where the most movement will be seen since it > > is furthest away from the center of rotation (which would be around the > > crankshaft/transmission/driveshaft axis.) > > Yes, exactly. Unfortunately the E36 engine compartment is fairly densely > packed, so coming up with a top end solution is tougher without making a > more expensive or elaborately tooled support like the nice Volvo bracket you > referenced. > > The BW stay resembles an adjustable front swaybar link plus a couple of > simple welded (or not...) steel brackets. I think it's really intended for > racing or serious track use with a limited market potential, so elaborate > design and tooling probably was avoided; its mounting location also isn't > optimal. > > I also think the BW stay would have been better if, again like the Volvo > part, it had included a resilient element at one end. If/when I reinstall > mine I'll probably make this modification myself. I'd like to introduce a > rubber or poly busing at the outer end. I'm not a fan of hard mounting stuff > that vibrates; seems like a recipe for something to crack. > > I think I might recall that people used to sell top end engine stays for the > (notoriously buzzy) E30 M3. Any E30 guys confirm? Carlos? > > Neil > Fort Wayne, IN > 96 M3 - Bastard child > 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic > 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell > 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#8. 96+ seat belt latched simulator? - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:20:39 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: 96+ seat belt latched simulator? I found the following in the archive, I should give credit to the original post, but I lack that info, sorry. Can anyone confirm the resistance required for the later 96+ SRS system? I think I have seen a reference to 3.3 ohms. Thank You Kim Burgess 99M3/2 "This works on my 95 ///M3. - Find the three conductor cable coming from the seat belt carrier. - Locate its connector under the seat. It is a flat three pin plastic piece about 1/2 inch wide by 3/4 inch long. - Disconnect it and cut the wire bundle going to the seat belt carrier leaving a couple of inches of spare wire. - Solder a 100 ohm resistor (I used 1/2 watt) between the two outside pins. The center conductor/pin is not used. - Tape up the solder joints, reinstall the connector, and tuck it up out of the way. - Repeat the above for the passenger seat. - Have the light reset. Your SRS light will never come on because of seat belt problems. Just remember, your SRS circuit thinks you are in the seat with the seat belt buckled so that's how you should be.?"
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Brake Problems... - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 11:39:01 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Problems... > the way you did. When you fill the tank of the pressure bleeder with fluid, > then pump it up, it tends to aerate the fluid. Then you pump this fluid > into your system. You mentioned tiny air bubbles. Here we go again, didn't we just beat this one to death a couple of weeks ago (or was that another list). It is a false assumption that because you are increasing the vapor pressure above the brake fluid you are aerating it. Properly constructed pressure bleeders do not introduce air into the brake fluid at all. If that were true, your method of using the pressure bleeder "dry" would do exactly the same thing, the aeration would just happen in the brake fluid reservoir. By using the pressure bleeder without brake fluid in it you stand a much greater likelihood of introducing air into the system because it can easily push all of the fluid from the reservoir into the brake lines and then continue filling them with air. I don't know what what the problem is with Som's brakes, but I have no problem getting a firm brake pedal on my M3 with a Motive brake bleeder. I don't know if this really helps but it's part of my brake bleeding ritual -- when I am bleeding, I tap the brake caliper with a brass mallet, I have noticed additional bubbles come out of the hose from time to time when doing this. I also do multiple bleeds sometimes, with 5-6 very hard (ABS engaging) stops in between. Also the last bleed, I make sure that there is ~20 psi in the bleeder and open and close the bleed screw 2-3 times very quickly in rapid sucession. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Brake Problems... - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 13:20:17 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake Problems... Som, Try doing a manual bleed without the pressure bleeder. This will rule out the bleeder as a possible culprit. Just keep the reservoir full and you'll have no problems. I would have a second person help you to do the pedal pump/open-close procedure. Start with the right rear (RR) followed by LR, RF, LF. I would use 15 pedal pumps/open-close for the each rear and 10 for each front. You must make sure that the reservoir does not empty, so be cautious otherwise you'll need to start over. Robert was incorrect in his statement about ABS not moving fluid. The Teves mkIV system has an open loop return path to the m/c reservoir. Any air bubbles trapped in the ABS HCU will be returned to the m/c reservoir or released into the wheel circuits when the ABS/TCS cycles a few times. After the bleed procedure above, you could drive the car, perform ABS stops, perform TCS launches, then re-bleed the car. If you still have a spongy pedal, it might be the case that your m/c seals are failing. Best regards, Jeremy // -----Original Message----- // From: Som Naderi [mailto:som@dimensionracing.com] // Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 12:36 AM // To: E36M3 // Subject: [E36M3] Brake Problems... // // Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 20:34:20 -0800 // From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> // Subject: Brake Problems... // // Group, // // I've got some problems with my brakes, and I'm thinking I'm not going to // have // them ready by Thunderhill this weekend -- which really really bums me // out. // // Last weekend I swapped out my rotors/pads/brake lines (slotted rotors, // HP+ // pads, stainless steel lines). I have since flushed the brakes 4 times // and I: // // a) still have a squishy brake pedal feeling, though it's gotten slightly // better each time // b) get a violent shudder when I brake hard enough to activate the ABS // // My brake bleed techniques were as follows: // // 1st Attempt: Filled pressure bleeder, attached to fluid reservoir, // pumped to // 15 psi, went to each wheel (attached the bleed hose, opened bleed valve, // let // run for about 15 seconds *after* the last air bubble I saw, closed bleed // valve), unscrewed pressure bleeder from bottle (there was no button), // trying // to slosh out some extra fluid (but not much, still a tad over max line), // replaced reservoir cap. // // 2nd Attempt: Same as first. // // 3rd Attempt: Same as first, except this time had a 2nd person in the // car. // The bleed procedure was like this: press brake -- open valve -- close // valve -- // release brake. Did this 3 times at each wheel. // // 4th Attempt: Same as first, except this time the brake pressing // procedure // went like this: press brake -- open valve -- press brake 10 times -- on // last // press, closed bleeder before brake was released. // // * // // Between each attempt I drove the car and tried several hard, ABS- // activating // brakes. Each time I started driving the car, I got a squishy pedal feel, // though it got progressively better with each bleed (but still not good // enough // after the 4th attempt). // // Each time, as the brakes warmed up, the initial grab of the brakes got a // little better. However, as the brakes warm up, the hard stops get worse. // When the ABS activates, it shudders VERY violently in the front. The // wheels // lock a little (some chirping sounds) and all around feels like I'm coming // to // stop over gravel or *rough* asphalt. It still stops, fairly quickly, and // it // still stops evenly -- the car doesn't seem to brake one way more than the // other. // // Here's what didn't happen: I didn't let the pressure bleeder bottle go // dry // and I didn't let air go back through the bleeder valve (it was a long // clear // hose). I haven't had any leaks below the car over the last 4 or 5 days. // I // checked out 3 hoses coming out of the brake reservoir and there's no sign // of // leaking around them (two of the hoses have clamps, the other comes out // from // near the top and doesn't have a clamp). I don't know if there are more. // I // couldn't see the connection between the MC and the reservoir too well. // // Here's what did happen: When I released the pressure from the pressure // bleeder, all 4 times I would get air bubbles coming out of the fluid // reservoir. I suspect whatever my problem is, this is linked to it (maybe // that's a "duh", but oh well). // // After the violent shaking stops, my brake pads squeeled significantly // more on // more casual braking later. I don't anticipate this'll have much to do // with // it, since I figure it's just getting hot and I likely didn't put enough // anti- // squeel on it, but it's still a possible data point. // // * // // What would be the likely culprits here? I heard issues with older master // cylinders going bad if you pressed the brakes while bleeding, but I // didn't // think that applied if you used the pressure bleeder (it had something to // do // with being able to press the pistons too far into the "possibly corroded // area" in the MC breaking seals blah blah blah). Did I damage my MC? I // don't // think I did anything particularly stupid compressing the pistons in the // calipers, but could I have messed something up there? // // Between the 3rd and 4th attempt, I've been driving the car for about 3 // days. // The brakes haven't lost any of their feel, so I've been a little hesitant // to // believe there's a leak in the lines. // // * // // Data point: I have AST. I did a whole bunch of looking online and // everyone // pretty much said as long as I didn't let the pressure bleeder/reservoir // go // dry that I would be okay with bleeding the brakes myself. // // Data Point: I'm using Super Blue. // // Data Point: 1998 M3 with 87k miles and likely original calipers. // // * // // If you read this, I really appreciate it. If you can help me out, I // would // appreciate it even more. Thank you! // // - Som // // // // // ************************************************* // Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: // // Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com // Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com // Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com // Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com // Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com // Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com // // DIGEST INFORMATION: // http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm // *************************************************