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#1. Re: [E36M3] Considering coming back into the fold - from Jim El Nabli
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Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 19:24:52 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Jim El Nabli <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Considering coming back into the fold Actually I remember reading an old Roundel article which gave the e36 stiffness specs and I remember the coupe being rated as stiffer. I was surprised. I could be wrong but if anyone wants to go roundel hunting it's in the mid-nineties. Jim E. -----Original Message----- From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Sent: May 19, 2005 6:02 PM To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Considering coming back into the fold Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 14:55:27 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Considering coming back into the fold On May 19, 2005, at 2:52 PM, Mo Karamat wrote: > 3. From what I have heard the sedan is slightly stiffer than the > coup (B > pillar) I keep seeing this and it may well be true, but it ain't 'cause the sedan has a B-pillar since the coupe has one, too. - Mark, car poet to the stars ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Considering coming back into the fold - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 16:46:10 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Considering coming back into the fold On Thu, May 19, 2005 4:31 pm, Jim El Nabli said: > Actually I remember reading an old Roundel article which gave the e36 > stiffness specs and I remember the coupe being rated as stiffer. I was > surprised. Kinda makes sense, if you look at number of holes in the body (2 vs. 4). But, I doubt it maks a whole lot of difference daily-driving :-) My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP - for a fact stiffer than the sedan :-)
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#3. Re: [E36M3] OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts - from David Bauer
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Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 17:31:12 -0700 (PDT) From: David Bauer <dbauer@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts Hi Jonathan, Well I've made it 9 years with both cars in my 2 car garage but I could only do it with lots of wall storage and easy access to the attic. I'm having a new house built myself and I'm going to 3 cars because it wasn't too much more to do it. I want to have a dedicated repair/work area that I can leave unfinished projects and still get the cars back in. As far as dimensions go I would have to favor width so that I can use the side walls for storage plus have plenty of room to open the longer doors of coupes. For my garage I am having it wired for a separate light circuit with metal halide lights (lots of watts and nice white light). I'm having it roughed out for a utility sink and 220 outlets for a welder and lift. The air compressor will probably go in the attic with external lines run to various spots in the garage. I'm also having outlets put in the ceiling for pull down extension cords between the bays. Lastly I am having it fully insulated (insulated doors too) so that I can install air conditioning later on. I've looked at lots of small lifts but the big drawback is most don't allow access to the driveline and I want to be able to pull the tranny. The lift at the top of my list is the Bend-pak P6, it runs about $1,800 http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=764 The main dilemma I have is with the flooring. I can't decide between Race Deck tiles or epoxy paint. The tiles are nice but expensive, epoxy much cheaper but I worry about durability. Hopefully others have input in this regard. HTH, Dave 95 M3 --- Jonathan Evans <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 14:09:15 -0400 > From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> > Subject: OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts > > Looking at floorplans of houses made me realize that > I'm not sure what my > minimum size requirements are for a garage to do > some shadetree mechanical > work on the M3. For the past 3 cars and 6 years, my > workspace to this point > has been a piece of cardboard under the car in a > gravel driveway. I'm ready > for an upgrade. I've been reading the Griot's > Garage catalog for years > dreaming... > > So I'd like to get by with a 2 car garage, but they > seem to come in varying > widths and lengths. 21' X18' seems small, but would > wider be better than > longer? I'm probably not in the market for a 3 car > garage in my area, but > would like some room to work while 2 cars are parked > in there. Do I need a > 2.5 car garage? > > Is there anything to think of now if I have a house > built to my specs? > Special lighting or power requirements? Built in > closests for air > compressors? > > And the plan is to actually USE the garage to park > two commuter cars in > everyday. I can hear you laughing, I know. (The > CSP Miata track toy will > sit in the rain under a tarp for now, lurking ready > to jump in and dissamble > itself one weekend and sit for a year.) > > Could anyone recommend some home lifts that don't > break the bank? I've seen > the scissor type that raises the car maybe 4 feet, > and the other that raised > it almost 6 feet. The latter was easily moveable > while the first was more a > permanent installation. > > So, please share what setups work for you guys/gals > or any advice you may > have for a garage newbie. Hmm, any good garage > books out there? > > Thanks > -Jonathan Evans > 95 M3 > 93 Miata CSP
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#4. OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 23:02:14 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts on 5/19/05 6:11 PM, "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> wrote: > So I'd like to get by with a 2 car garage, but they seem to come in varying > widths and lengths. 21' X18' seems small Yes it does. The detached 2 car garage we built 5 years ago is about 22x24. I forget which is the long dimension, but at this size it doesn't matter much. This allows plenty of room for a workbench on the back wall and storage shelves at both sides too. > but would wider be better than longer? I'm probably not in the market for a 3 > car garage in my area, but would like some room to work while 2 cars are > parked in there. Do I need a 2.5 car garage? Bigger is better. > Is there anything to think of now if I have a house built to my specs? > Special lighting or power requirements? Built in closests for air > compressors? Some menu items: 8 ft twin tube fluorescent fixtures (three min) 240V power Many outlets Heat/cool Attic storage Pegboard walls Sink Floor drain > Could anyone recommend some home lifts that don't break the bank? I've seen > the scissor type that raises the car maybe 4 feet, and the other that raised > it almost 6 feet. The latter was easily moveable while the first was more a > permanent installation. The problem I see is that a lift needs to be in the middle bay of a 3 car garage, otherwise you don't have access to one side of the car when it's on the lift. The scissor lifts I've seen block access to the underside of the car, so why bother? Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#5. Re: [E36M3] OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts - from Walter J
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Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 09:10:25 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts My garage is 26w x 32l with a 14' ceiling. A set of steps to the house steal space on one bay but the additional length on the other is awesome for a work area in front of the car - the extra width/height should allow me to put a two post lift with a full extension on one side and still be able to work around the car as soon as I can convince the other half that is waaay better than a dining room set. Other things to think about: - A compressor is a must and its really nice to be able to run some plumbing for the air so you don't need big rubber hoses running all over. Especially to a spool in the ceiling at the center of the garage and a bank of nipples at the workbench. - Electrical... a 60A sub-panel with 20 breaker slots so you can expand w/o making home runs to the main box when you really do get a lift or decide you want to try wood working or welding. Have a generous bunch of outlets installed as a starting point. Lights along the baseboard near the floor help when the car is on stands or the hood is blocking the ceiling lights. ( I hate drop lights) - A parts washer is awesome if you do more than simple maint. - Running water (a slop sink preferably) - Heat that does not come from open flame - Walls... have the contractor insulate but don't finish them so you can have all of the above done after you move in. Sheetrock or pegboard is cheap to have done later but if you have to tear it out to plumb a sink or run a wire it becomes a "project". - Last one... a door mounted flange & hose to allow the car to be run inside the garage with the door closed when its cold outside. McMaster-Carr sells the stuff. -- Walter
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#6. Crank Position Sensor failed again? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 10:08:53 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Crank Position Sensor failed again? Folks, 6 months ago I had my check engine light come on along with the sputtering/hiccups. Diagnosed it to find out that the Crank Position Sensor was shot. Replaced. Now 6 months later, same issue all again. It just could be that the sensor could be defective but apart from that, what could trigger/aggravate the sensor? Thanks, Ahmad
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#7. Re: [E36M3] OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 10:15:44 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OT - Garage Sizes, Home Car Lifts A few more things that I would add: 1. Make the general outlets 20A circuits and make them quad's (four plugs) and try to space them 10ft or so apart and place extra where your workbench will be. 2. Look at web pages for lifts, they are generally 11' wide from outside of post to outside of post, which means it is wider than a normal residential garage bay and therefore the garage door must be spaced away from the wall slightly, to allow a straight shop onto the lift (obviously this depends on the design of the garage) 3. Large exhaust fan of some kind (and not the kind you get for a bathroom, I have a 3000 cfm in my 1000 sf garage) so that if you want to start the car, paint something, or sweep up and make a huge dust cloud in the garage it will not hang around for hours. 4. Place the fluorescent fixtures around the outside and down the middle of the garage, do not place them above where the cars will be. 5. Wire the outlet for the air compressor or welder on a switch, so that you can shut it off easily when you are done for the day. 6. Run a few "dead" feeds from you panel box to above the ceiling for future use. (only if you are sheetrocking the walls. 7. When you have the concrete walls of the garage done, extend them 1-2ft above the height of the finished slab. This way the concrete walls will protected the wood framed walls incase someone or something bumps into them with a vehicle or trailer. Hope this helps, Chris >Some menu items: >8 ft twin tube fluorescent fixtures (three min) >240V power >Many outlets >Heat/cool >Attic storage >Pegboard walls >Sink >Floor drain > > > Could anyone recommend some home lifts that don't break the bank? I've > seen > > the scissor type that raises the car maybe 4 feet, and the other that > raised > > it almost 6 feet. The latter was easily moveable while the first was > more a > > permanent installation. > >The problem I see is that a lift needs to be in the middle bay of a 3 car >garage, otherwise you don't have access to one side of the car when it's on >the lift. The scissor lifts I've seen block access to the underside of the >car, so why bother? > >Neil >Fort Wayne, IN >96 M3 - Bastard child >03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic >77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell >05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >*************************************************
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#8. FS: 1993 BMW 325iS ITS/JP/GTS etc. - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 08:12:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 1993 BMW 325iS ITS/JP/GTS etc. For those of you looking to move up to racing, my race car is for sale. In reality, the wife says that the time has come and the car must be gone soon. Make me an offer. 1993 BMW 325iS ITS/JP, Motivated Seller, best of everything, fully prepared and maintained by Fall-Line Motorsports, very fast and competitive, will set track records in hands of good driver, 0.2 seconds off track record at Road America first time out, fresh Stickley maximum ITS motor, custom 8 point cage, Sparco Touring seat with head protection, Schroth HANS harness, STACK, full radio system harness, OMP wheel with quick release, complete TC Kline Double Adjustable Koni suspension, spherical bearings everywhere, Accusump, fresh differential with spare, too much to list, see spec sheet and pics for more details. http://bmwccaclubracing.com/static/forsale/forsale.htm Contact: Mike Turgeon at (w) 312/609-7716 or (h) 630/236-9158 or turgeon1@yahoo.com Many thanks, Mike __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
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#9. Re: M3 Diet - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 09:01:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: M3 Diet Johnathan, I have also been putting my M3 on a diet and have come up with some additional ideas: Carbon Fiber Hood (painted factory color) Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid (painted factory color) 11 lb Odyssey Battery (been using for 3+ years) 27lb Corbeau Seats Lightweight wheels (Forged SSR's 19 lbs) Rear Seat Seatbacks are VERY heavy Many aftermarket brake kits weigh 10 lbs less than stock brakes even more extreme: Underbody panels to reduce aerodynamic drag Carbon Fiber Doors (safety?) Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass front quarter panels (available?) Lighweight Racing Suspension (available for M3?) Star Trek Anti-gravity unit (especially the deluxe unit that can be reversed during cornering for additional downforce!!) I would also appreciate additional ideas from other list members. Has anyone tried any of the "more extreme" ideas? Hunt Hodgetts Wholesale Auto Broker Atlanta, GA (404) 644-6020 cell (770) 913-3017 fax Note - I only have access to my email account once a day. If you need to reach me immediately, please call my cell phone at (404) 644-6020.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 Diet - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 12:19:41 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 Diet I haven't done this myself (or any weight reduction as my car is a street car): the sunroof. 30 or 40 lbs, at the highest point of the car. Kinda of a PITA to pull out though... Andrej 97 M3 heavyweight Hunt Hodgetts writes: > Johnathan, > I have also been putting my M3 on a diet and have come > up with some additional ideas: > Carbon Fiber Hood (painted factory color) > Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid (painted factory color) > 11 lb Odyssey Battery (been using for 3+ years) > 27lb Corbeau Seats > Lightweight wheels (Forged SSR's 19 lbs) > Rear Seat Seatbacks are VERY heavy > Many aftermarket brake kits weigh 10 lbs less than > stock brakes > even more extreme: > Underbody panels to reduce aerodynamic drag > Carbon Fiber Doors (safety?) > Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass front quarter panels > (available?) > Lighweight Racing Suspension (available for M3?) > Star Trek Anti-gravity unit (especially the deluxe > unit that can be reversed during cornering for > additional downforce!!) > I would also appreciate additional ideas from other > list members. Has anyone tried any of the "more > extreme" ideas? > Hunt Hodgetts > Wholesale Auto Broker > Atlanta, GA > (404) 644-6020 cell > (770) 913-3017 fax