E36M3 #4320

Monday, June 06, 2005 21:33:00

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? - from Baysinger, Jeffrey S (Jeffrey)
#2. RE: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from Michael, Dave
#3. Re: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
#4. E36 M3 oil pressure issue. - from Peter Wheeler
#5. RE: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from docwyte@comcast.net
#6. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#7. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from docwyte@comcast.net
#8. BG44K Procedure - from Kevin D. McLeaster
#9. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from Rob Norwalk
#10. Long overdue THANK YOU for cylinder head advice - from Frank Walker

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#1. RE: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? - from Baysinger, Jeffrey S (Jeffrey)
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 08:18:22 -0600 From: "Baysinger, Jeffrey S (Jeffrey)" <jbaysinger@avaya.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? We've been running 18x9 SSR Comps and 245/30/18 Kumho V710s with a 15mm spacer in front and no spacer in the rear on Dave Jobusch's '95 for several weeks and have not had any clearance issues. I don't remember what offset the rims are, maybe Dave can clarify (I think he's on list). The fender lips have been rolled. Graeme, you're running a similar size, aren't you? - Jeff in CO www.generic-racing.com -----Original Message----- In a message dated 6/4/2005 3:42:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, GGray657@aol.com writes: SSR competiotions. 18x8.5 with 235/40's. I am switching to 18 inch track wheels. I want to make sure they fit properly. 235/40 on an 18" wheel will make for a tall set-up. For an 18" wheel, I think the more common side profile is 30 or 35. I've been thinking of using 245/35/18... that would be if I had 18" wheels! Looking for a nice set of 18x9 SSR GT3's or 18x8.5 SSR Comp-H's cheers, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to: Baysinger, Jeffrey S (Jeffrey)

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#2. RE: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from Michael, Dave
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 10:41:23 -0400 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal Carey, Other than the "testing" I have been doin' in the last few day, the only bedding I did was a few stops from 60 or so when I installed them last fall. When you ran into problems before bedding, did the pedal go soft when the brakes went away? This weekend I did a full brake bleed and retested. It may be a little better, in that it took a few more stops before the pedal went soft. I am just surprised by the failure mode. I have suffered brake fade before. However, in those cases, the brakes just stop working but the pedal doesn't go soft. Maybe not relevant, since the brakes are fine for normal driving, and as I mentioned previously, no track days planned for a few years. Thanks! Dave 98 m3/4 > -----Original Message----- > From: Carey Probst [mailto:hcprobst@alum.mit.edu] > Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 10:16 AM > To: Michael, Dave > Cc: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal > > > Did you bed them properly if needed. I just switched to > Carbotech pads > for track and summer and they require a bedding procedure. > > First time was kind of scary since they felt like no brake at all but > after bedding they are hard and strong. > > Just an idea? > > Carey > > Michael, Dave wrote: > > >Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 13:30:01 -0400 > >From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> > >Subject: Brake Fade + Soft Pedal > > > >Oh mavens of M3 brakedom - > > > >I replaced my OEM pads last fall with "ceramic" pads that > promised very > >little dust as well as resistance to fade (brand name Ceramicool). > >While these have not been part of the ongoing brake pad discussion > >topic, they seemed promising, esp. since I have given up > track driving > >for the foreseeable future. At the same time , I also installed new > >front calipers, new rotors and SS lines all around. I used > ATE fluid. > >The pads seems to perform well, in that the wheels stay VERY > clean, and > >during normal driving, the pedal is firm and the brake > "feel" is good. > > > >Today, I did several hard stops on the way to work (no-one > was behind > >me) to try and rid the car of slight brake pulsing that > developed over > >the winter (seems to always happen, and is mostly due to > rotor rust it > >seems). I was completely surprised by how badly the brakes > performed. > >Not only did they fade quickly, the fade was combined with a very > >spongy pedal. > > > >This would seem to be a classic symptom of moisture in the > brake fluid, > >correct? I will bleed the brakes this weekend (I use a > motive pressure > >bleeder AND a few quick pushes of the pedal). Any other suggestions? > > > >TIA as always > > > >Dave > > > >98 M3/4 > >02 MCS > >90 200QA > >

Reply to: Michael, Dave

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#3. Re: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 09:18:15 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? I'm running 18x9 SSR Integral A2's. I know for a fact Kumho Ecsta MX in 245/40-18 will not fit. All the 245/35-18's that I have heard people trying - Pilot PS2, Goddyear F1 GS3. The MX 235/40-18 is only 0.3" smaller in diameter than the 245. I'd say whether a 235/40-18 fits is touch and go and will be vehicle and tire manufacturer dependant. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Baysinger, Jeffrey S (Jeffrey) [mailto:jbaysinger@avaya.com] Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 8:42 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 08:18:22 -0600 From: "Baysinger, Jeffrey S (Jeffrey)" <jbaysinger@avaya.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SSR 18x8.5 with 235/40's? We've been running 18x9 SSR Comps and 245/30/18 Kumho V710s with a 15mm spacer in front and no spacer in the rear on Dave Jobusch's '95 for several weeks and have not had any clearance issues. I don't remember what offset the rims are, maybe Dave can clarify (I think he's on list). The fender lips have been rolled. Graeme, you're running a similar size, aren't you? - Jeff in CO www.generic-racing.com -----Original Message----- In a message dated 6/4/2005 3:42:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, GGray657@aol.com writes: SSR competiotions. 18x8.5 with 235/40's. I am switching to 18 inch track wheels. I want to make sure they fit properly. 235/40 on an 18" wheel will make for a tall set-up. For an 18" wheel, I think the more common side profile is 30 or 35. I've been thinking of using 245/35/18... that would be if I had 18" wheels! Looking for a nice set of 18x9 SSR GT3's or 18x8.5 SSR Comp-H's cheers, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to: Graeme Weston-Lewis

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#4. E36 M3 oil pressure issue. - from Peter Wheeler
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 11:54:30 -0500 From: Peter Wheeler <JPWheelr@dakarm3.com> Subject: E36 M3 oil pressure issue. 1997 M3/4 Automatic 120k miles Can't seem to get the oil pressure light off. Have replaced: Switch (twice) Oil Pan Gasket Oil Pump No change. Is this a common problem? Is there some part I should be looking to replace other than what I have already? Sorry for the cross post, any help is greatly appreciated. Peter

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#5. RE: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from docwyte@comcast.net
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Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 00:49:54 +0000 From: docwyte@comcast.net Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal It's the pad compound, not the fluid. Most "dustless" pads just don't stop the car under any really aggressive conditions, they just can't handle the heat. Chances are you've glazed the pads, I'd take them out and file them down, then reinstall them and re-bed them. Just realize that their performance envelope is very small. -------------- Original message -------------- > Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 10:41:23 -0400 > From: "Michael, Dave" > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal > > Carey, > > Other than the "testing" I have been doin' in the last few day, the only > bedding I did was a few stops from 60 or so when I installed them last > fall. > > When you ran into problems before bedding, did the pedal go soft when > the brakes went away? > > This weekend I did a full brake bleed and retested. It may be a little > better, in that it took a few more stops before the pedal went soft. I > am just surprised by the failure mode. I have suffered brake fade > before. However, in those cases, the brakes just stop working but the > pedal doesn't go soft. > > Maybe not relevant, since the brakes are fine for normal driving, and as > I mentioned previously, no track days planned for a few years. > > Thanks! > > Dave > 98 m3/4 > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Carey Probst [mailto:hcprobst@alum.mit.edu] > > Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 10:16 AM > > To: Michael, Dave > > Cc: E36M3 > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal > > > > > > Did you bed them properly if needed. I just switched to > > Carbotech pads > > for track and summer and they require a bedding procedure. > > > > First time was kind of scary since they felt like no brake at all but > > after bedding they are hard and strong. > > > > Just an idea? > > > > Carey > > > > Michael, Dave wrote: > > > > >Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 13:30:01 -0400 > > >From: "Michael, Dave" > > >Subject: Brake Fade + Soft Pedal > > > > > >Oh mavens of M3 brakedom - > > > > > >I replaced my OEM pads last fall with "ceramic" pads that > > promised very > > >little dust as well as resistance to fade (brand name Ceramicool). > > >While these have not been part of the ongoing brake pad discussion > > >topic, they seemed promising, esp. since I have given up > > track driving > > >for the foreseeable future. At the same time , I also installed new > > >front calipers, new rotors and SS lines all around. I used > > ATE fluid. > > >The pads seems to perform well, in that the wheels stay VERY > > clean, and > > >during normal driving, the pedal is firm and the brake > > "feel" is good. > > > > > >Today, I did several hard stops on the way to work (no-one > > was behind > > >me) to try and rid the car of slight brake pulsing that > > developed over > > >the winter (seems to always happen, and is mostly due to > > rotor rust it > > >seems). I was completely surprised by how badly the brakes > > performed. > > >Not only did they fade quickly, the fade was combined with a very > > >spongy pedal. > > > > > >This would seem to be a classic symptom of moisture in the > > brake fluid, > > >correct? I will bleed the brakes this weekend (I use a > > motive pressure > > >bleeder AND a few quick pushes of the pedal). Any other suggestions? > > > > > >TIA as always > > > > > >Dave > > > > > >98 M3/4 > > >02 MCS > > >90 200QA > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 20:57:54 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal In a message dated 6/6/2005 8:52:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, docwyte@comcast.net writes: It's the pad compound, not the fluid. Most "dustless" pads just don't stop the car under any really aggressive conditions, they just can't handle the heat. Is this true for the Axxis Ultimates too?? They are suppose to be low dusting. I've been waiting to install these after my OEM Jurids wear out. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from docwyte@comcast.net
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Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 01:02:47 +0000 From: docwyte@comcast.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal Some people like the Ultimates. I ran them and personally thought they stunk. -------------- Original message -------------- In a message dated 6/6/2005 8:52:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, docwyte@comcast.net writes: It's the pad compound, not the fluid. Most "dustless" pads just don't stop the car under any really aggressive conditions, they just can't handle the heat. Is this true for the Axxis Ultimates too?? They are suppose to be low dusting. I've been waiting to install these after my OEM Jurids wear out. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004

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#8. BG44K Procedure - from Kevin D. McLeaster
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Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 20:46:40 -0500 From: "Kevin D. McLeaster" <kmcleaster@insightbb.com> Subject: BG44K Procedure I usually just get the BG44K product that you add to the fuel, but this time I got the "kit" that has the stuff that your squirt into the intake and throttle butterfly. The can says to remove the boot that goes to the butterfly and squirt it in, start car w/ boot disconnected and squirt more at moderate idle sufficient to prevent a stall. Is this procedure appropriate for a 1995 M3? Any sensor faults, error codes, or easy-to-break parts to be concerned about? Thanks, Kevin McLeaster 95 M3, Arctic Silver, 95,000 mi.

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal - from Rob Norwalk
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Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 21:11:22 -0500 From: Rob Norwalk <rnorwalk@verizon.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal Why wait, do you just like cleaning your wheels? :) I've used them on all my BMWs - slightly less initial bite, better modulation, virtually zero dust, but street use only Rob 2002 330 - 20 spoke sport wheels Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: >Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 20:57:54 EDT >From: Mdriver13@aol.com >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade + Soft Pedal > >In a message dated 6/6/2005 8:52:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, >docwyte@comcast.net writes: >It's the pad compound, not the fluid. Most "dustless" pads just don't stop >the car under any really aggressive conditions, they just can't handle the >heat. > >Is this true for the Axxis Ultimates too?? They are suppose to be low >dusting. I've been waiting to install these after my OEM Jurids wear out. > > >Bob Gill >97 ///M3 coupe >Philly Region SCCA >2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004 > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >

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#10. Long overdue THANK YOU for cylinder head advice - from Frank Walker
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Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 19:31:10 -0700 From: "Frank Walker" <frankirsten@msn.com> Subject: Long overdue THANK YOU for cylinder head advice Sorry for taking so long to post my thanks. I wanted to especially thank Neil Maller, Wes (the car geek) and Tom Wyatt for their advice about replacing an E36 M3 cylinder head gasket and various other parts while I was doing the job. It took a good 3 weeks to get my head back from the machine shop, and that seemed to be the major obstacle for finishing the job. Regarding special tools, the Bentley manual shows how to fabricate a plate for locking the cams in position while installing the head/timing chain and keeping TDC for the crank. There is a flywheel locking tool by BMW, but I ended up going to Ace Hardware and finding a small metal dowel pin (8mm) and fitting it into a large roll pin. I then grinded the roll pin enough to fit through the flywheel housing to lock the flywheel. It cost around a buck in parts and a little time on the grinding wheel. I installed a Zionsville aluminum radiator and left off the fan. It was up to 109 F out here in Tucson a few weeks back and the temp gauge stayed dead center in the middle. So far, this looks to be an excellent radiator. I changed out all the cooling and heater hoses. One problem I had was that my 95 M3 has dual climate control (passenger and driver) and this system has an extra heater hose at the valve. No one could pull-up this part in their computer schematics. Luckily, all BMW hoses have their part numbers on them, so we used that to determine the correct hose. I also replaced the knock sensors and motor mounts. Through the head installation process, I called up one of my biggest friends and we installed the head with the exhausts manifolds attached. This seemed a lot easier than installing the exhaust manifolds with the head on the engine. It only costs me two beers to see him holding that head while I lined everything up. I replaced the fuel lines from the hard lines to the fuel rail with a domestic size (standard size from auto store) fuel line and standard screw type hose clamps. I have discovered the hose at the front of the engine leaking at the hose clamps. I tightened down the clamps, but wonder if this is due to the fuel line I used. All in all, the cylinder head is not that bad of a job to do. I kept track of all the fasteners by putting them in zip-lock bags and labeling them for each assembly I was working on. This worked out great for organization. I also found that having both the factory and the Bentley manual made things much easier than just having one on hand. You could cross reference certain facts and each has some helpful tips that the other manual did not mention. Once again thanks for the help, Frank

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