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#1. M3 Overhaul - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 20:33:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: M3 Overhaul So....I was told that the Elise wasn't allowed to join the NCC chapter at Summit Point in two weeks...bummer. Therefore, I had to get the M3 into acceptable condition. I've driven the past few months with no rear sway bar because the bracket broke after an attempt to repair them was made a while back. I broke down and ended up buying a new rear subframe. Can you say mucho $$$? Luckily, the new rear subframe comes with $100 worth of bushings already installed for you. A whole lotta stuff on my car was badly corroded. Here's what was/will be replaced: - Front rotors - Power steering pump - Control arms - Front sway bar links - Front sway bar brackets - Gas pedal - Tie rods - Steering equipment (the main reason for this post) - Engine mounts - Engine carriers (Some have said that theirs cracked) - Rear rotors - Rear subframe - Spark plugs - Fuel filter - Fuel injectors (will install the second set that I bought and have the originals serviced) The only bad thing that happened this weekend so far was: - The left rear eccentric bolt was so badly rusted in place that while trying to extract it, the ball joint failed :( - The left rear trailing arm mounts are on their way out...DAMN! Anyway, my steering wheel has been squeaking for a while now. Some have suggested that it's the slip ring (nope) or the plastic bearing on the steering column (double nope). Instead, it's the metal bearing at the end of the steering column right around where the firewall is: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=32_0635&hg=32&fg=30 It's item (7). Sorry Don, this will be a ball buster.... Luckily, I timed fixing this with replacing the control arms so a lot of stuff was out of the way. Would I attempt to do this with everything else in its normal place? I doubt it. With the front subframe, x-brace, control arms out of the way, Wayne was able to pull off the lower joint assembly: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=32_0640&hg=32&fg=30 Item (2). BTW, I ordered both parts (there are two part numbers one not as expensive and the other nearly doubly so!) and waddya know? It's the more expensive part! I removed the steering wheel, the lower dash panel, and the knee bolster. We took off the snap ring from the cabin where then you can pry out the plastic bearing. Now came the hard part. The lower end of the steering column is pretty high up and perhaps the engineers thought that it would be safe from water/salt/etc... Well, everything at the other end was badly rusted. The snap ring, the spring, the keepers...everything. With much banging and dremelling with a cutoff wheel, wayne was finally able to free the lower assembly. But...the whole shaft doesn't slide out, which means that you have to try to remove the steering column. This is where you have to spend a lot of time grinding away the sheer bolts that hold the column to the tubular support under the dash. It was a major PITA! Once the column is loose and you turn the plastic locking that secures the column to the firewall, it pretty much popped out. The only bad thing is all the wires that go to the ignition, etc..so you can only rotate the column assembly around to try to work on it. The bearing on the lower end is pressed on. Prying it out required patiently hitting a flathead at the lip all around. Once that was out, it was time to wire brush all the rust away. What a difference the wire brush made on a die grinder <vbg> After that, I coated the shaft with grease and pressed in the new bearing with a 1 3/16" socket. The old bearing was completely shot and I figure most everyone's will be the same. I then coated everything with grease to protect it...the new spring, the new plates, the new snap ring. From what I can feel now, it's very, very smooth. I coated all the interfaces with anti-seize which should make for much easier removal in the future. In retrospect, the sheer bolts could have had a slot ground into it and turned by a flat head driver. Live 'n Learn... Hope this helps someone, Chester
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rebuilt Motor Suggestions - from Robert Manger
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:18:28 -0400 From: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rebuilt Motor Suggestions No sir, this is a guy in my office that didn't react fast enough to a coolant leak while driving across the Tap in westchester Mdriver13@aol.com 06/10/2005 05:46 PM To Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com, e36m3@bmw-m.net cc Subject Re: [E36M3] Rebuilt Motor Suggestions In a message dated 6/10/2005 9:32:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com writes: Posting this for a friend of mine who seems to have seized his engine in a e36 328. This wouldn't have been a young fellow that ran at a Philly autox last weekend in DSP (black 328)? Halfway through his second run white smoke started coming from under the car. Broke the plastic connection from the hose to the radiator. Took all the joy out of his weekend :-( Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 2nd Place BSP - PA State Championship 2004 ----------------------------------------- CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This e-mail message and any attachments are only for the use of the intended recipient and may contain information that is privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or other use of this e-mail message or attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender immediately. Thank you.
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#3. Re: Cat-back Exhaust Options - from scrowl@austin.rr.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:11:08 -0500 From: scrowl@austin.rr.com Subject: Re: Cat-back Exhaust Options I've had the first generation UUC system U for about 4 yrs and do not find it loud or annoying - ymmv. IIRC, the only advantage from replacing OEM exhaust on M3s was weight reduction; no verifiable improvement in hp or torque. Steve
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:06:25 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery Hi Bob. Re: >That is good life! I have the Interstate now, but might switch to >the Optima next time. Is this battery vented and do you have the >part number? Since it's a gel cell battery, it's not vented in the conventional sense -- i.e. there are no provisions (and no need) for attaching a vent tube, etc. I don't have the P/N handy. It's the now-standard Red Top with 4 terminals (two posts and two GM-style threaded (female) terminals). They have them at Costco, pep Boys, etc. It's the new style with the top posts pushed out to the edges of the battery. Note that this battery is _not_ a drop-in replacement for the OEM battery -- the hold-down system in the car won't work. You'll have to fabricate some sort of adapter to get it to work ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Cat-back Exhaust Options - from Hans Batra
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 14:42:58 -0400 From: "Hans Batra" <hansbatra@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Cat-back Exhaust Options Steve, There are definite HP/TQ gains on 1995s (OBD I cars). Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: <scrowl@austin.rr.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 10:12 AM Subject: [E36M3] Re: Cat-back Exhaust Options > Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:11:08 -0500 > From: scrowl@austin.rr.com > Subject: Re: Cat-back Exhaust Options > > I've had the first generation UUC system U for about 4 yrs and do not > find it loud or annoying - ymmv. > > IIRC, the only advantage from replacing OEM exhaust on M3s was weight > reduction; no verifiable improvement in hp or torque. > > Steve > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery - from Rex Tener
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 14:14:28 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery At 11:12 AM 6/13/2005 -0500, Andrew Kalman wrote: >I don't have the P/N handy. It's the now-standard Red Top with 4 terminals >(two posts and two GM-style threaded (female) terminals). They have them >at Costco, pep Boys, etc. It's the new style with the top posts pushed >out to the edges of the battery. > >Note that this battery is _not_ a drop-in replacement for the OEM battery >-- the hold-down system in the car won't work. You'll have to fabricate >some sort of adapter to get it to work ... I bought Optima 75/35 batteries for all my vehicles about 18 months ago from Pep Boys. I must have had way too much time on my hands back then because I made a bottom side mount to bottom end mount adapter for my 1996 M3 out of HDPE. The before/after pictures are located here: <http://www.ninemisfit.com/vehicles/1996_bmw_m3/optima/index.html> -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com 1996 BMW M3, SCCA SFR Solo STU #73
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#7. Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:55:48 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery Re: >I bought Optima 75/35 batteries for all my vehicles about 18 months >ago from Pep Boys. I must have had way too much time on my hands >back then because I made a bottom side mount to bottom end mount >adapter for my 1996 M3 out of HDPE. The before/after pictures are >located here: > > <http://www.ninemisfit.com/vehicles/1996_bmw_m3/optima/index.html> > That's very nice! How strong is the HDPE for this application? Any worries about it breaking from lateral g's, etc? My adapter is a bit like a thin, square ping-pong paddle, and the battery is bolted to it via 4 bolts. It's strong, but raises the battery by about 3/8", which causes fitment problems. I built it for the Pikes Peak Hill Climb, where as you might imagine it gets thrashed around a bit ... Your solution seems a lot nicer, especially if it could be made of sheet metal. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery - from Rex Tener
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 16:31:01 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RIP My Optima Battery At 03:55 PM 6/13/2005 -0700, Andrew Kalman wrote: >>I bought Optima 75/35 batteries for all my vehicles about 18 months ago >>from Pep Boys. I must have had way too much time on my hands back then >>because I made a bottom side mount to bottom end mount adapter for my >>1996 M3 out of HDPE. The before/after pictures are located here: >> >> <http://www.ninemisfit.com/vehicles/1996_bmw_m3/optima/index.html> > >That's very nice! Thanks. >How strong is the HDPE for this application? Any worries about it breaking >from lateral g's, etc? I was very surprised about how strong this material is. After I cut the hole out of the center of the material I put one end in a wood vice and I was unable to twist it via the other end. It is incredibly stiff at this thickness (3/4" or 1"). >My adapter is a bit like a thin, square ping-pong paddle, and the battery >is bolted to it via 4 bolts. It's strong, but raises the battery by about >3/8", which causes fitment problems. I built it for the Pikes Peak Hill >Climb, where as you might imagine it gets thrashed around a bit ... Yeah, I can imagine. The car that this is installed in is my autox car, so it sees a lot of quick transitions and hard braking and there have been no issues so far. I didn't include a picture with the battery cover in place, but it does fit with about a tenth of an inch to spare between the bottom of the battery cover and the top of the terminals on the battery. Rex PS: I have install guides for the same battery in a BMW M Coupe and a Toyota Tacoma if anyone is interested.
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#9. M3 Parts for Sale - from Skip Bacon
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Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 19:45:21 -0700 From: "Skip Bacon" <skip@talltalesfarm.com> Subject: M3 Parts for Sale I am going to go ahead and part out the car I posted about a few days ago. These parts are all available for local pickup in Mt View, CA, otherwise buyer pays shipping. Portion of proceeds will go for list maintenance. - Euro (large case) diff, brand-new Blanton rebuild w/3.46 Quaife, includes carrier (needs blasting and painting) and nosepiece: $1,500. Boxed and ready to ship, but HEAVY (125 lbs+) - OEM LTW front splitter: includes metal bumper core, supports, splitter, lips that attach to standard bumper cover. Several dings on the lips, otherwise like new: $500 - OEM LTW rear spoiler: PTG w/integrated 3rd brake light. Painted Cosmos Black, including riser blocks. $700, or $900 already mounted & swap for your trunk lid - 4 OEM forged LTW wheels: 2 17 x 7.5, 2 17 x 8s, Pole Position S-03s (225 fronts, 245 rears) with 80% tread, like new condition. $1,200 or $1,000 if you supply 4 junker replacements. - SuperSprint exhaust: $300 - OEM exhaust: $150 - OEM Catalytic converter assembly - less than 15k miles on it, get rid of your heat shield rattles: $400 - All interior parts available, including Vader (manual) seats, folding rear seat. Black leather, 9 out of 10 condition - no visible wear, few small scuffs/marks on seatbacks. Make an offer. - 6 speed Euro transmission, $2,500 - includes OEM lighted shift knob and Rogue shifter assembly. - OEM 3 spoke wheel and airbag, $350. - Set of 3 SPA DG 200 dual digital gages (oil pressure/temp, fuel pressure/water temp, boost/EGT), never installed , includes senders, harnesses, and AA gage cluster: $500 - Mov'It big brake kit - front and rear; 332x32 mm fronts w/993 TT calipers, 996 rears; fit under 17" wheels. No lips on rotors, calipers black w/o logos, some paint chips from wheel removal/reinstallation but otherwise excellent, includes all mounting hardware, including custom rear backing plates and spare front rotors (need truing): $2,000. - Stock rear diff with 3.64 Quaiffe, Alpina cover, about 20,000 miles; $800. - Set of 4 Ignition Solutions plasa coils, new, $400. - OEM radiator, new, w/SPAL electric puller fan mounted & Samco silicon hoses, $150. - Complete suspension: H&R coilovers, UUC tubular sways, KMAC front camber plates, BPM adjustable rear arms: $1,000; need to work w/buyer on how and when to pull this. Skip
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#10. Re: Was Rebuilt engine - from Robert Manger
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Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2005 09:24:44 -0400 From: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Re: Was Rebuilt engine Hi all, The saga continues. I think we have located a stock rebuilt M52 engine for my friends 328 convert, but we now need a shop in the NY/NJ area to install it. The engine supplier recommended the Little Garage in Queens. Does anyone have any experience with them or perhaps another shop that can put an engine in the area? M3 content- does anyone have any experience with Cool Willy's pads that Turner sells? Thinking about using them as a track only pad instead of the pagid blues. Any and all help is much appreciated. Rob ----------------------------------------- CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This e-mail message and any attachments are only for the use of the intended recipient and may contain information that is privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or other use of this e-mail message or attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender immediately. Thank you.