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#1. FS: '97 M3 4-door - from Dahlstrand, Kurt
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Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 18:23:50 -0400 From: "Dahlstrand, Kurt" <KDahlstrand@empirix.com> Subject: FS: '97 M3 4-door Unfortunately, the day has come where I must part with my M3. Thought I'd post on here in hopes of finding a good home... The details: Year: 1997 Model: 4-door w/ luxury package Transmission: manual Miles: 114,600 I've addressed all of the normal problem areas for the E36 M3: -shocks -rear shock mounts -rear trailing arm bushings -radiator Other improvements made: -Conforti cold air intake -stainless steel brake lines -X-Brace -cross-drilled rotors -Alpine head unit -clear front/rear/side directional lights -hard-wired for Valentine radar detector The asking price is $13,000. I'm also looking to sell a set of 17" winter wheels/tires and a Peake Research ODBC scan/reset tool. Pictures: Front <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/c88e5b0b.jpg> Right-front <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/f189d135.jpg> Left-front <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/728b55ff.jpg> Rear <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/efa3a4aa.jpg> Interior (dash) <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/1a353c14.jpg> Engine Compartment <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/9af6fd06.jpg> Behind Steering Wheel <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/24babfe4.jpg> Wheel <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/ca0785ce.jpg> -Kurt
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#2. FS: '97 M3 4-door - from Dahlstrand, Kurt
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Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 18:25:54 -0400 From: "Dahlstrand, Kurt" <KDahlstrand@empirix.com> Subject: FS: '97 M3 4-door Here are the pictures: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/c88e5b0b.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/f189d135.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/728b55ff.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/efa3a4aa.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/1a353c14.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/9af6fd06.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/24babfe4.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/kdahlstrand/M3/ca0785ce.jpg -Kurt
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#3. Re: Koni SA or Bilstein Sports? - from Dat Quach (quachd)
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Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 20:53:35 -0700 From: "Dat Quach (quachd)" <quachd@cisco.com> Subject: Re: Koni SA or Bilstein Sports? Mo or anyone else, do you have to modify the strut inserts if you order the complete TC Kline kit? I haven't received a response from them yet (4th of July weekend). Thanks, Dat > Dat, > > Hello.. I had the Koni's SA's, rears were the TC Kline External adjustables > + Eibach Pro kit springs on my 98 m3/4 for several years. I found the ride very comfortable, but the car still handled > very well. Doing the cut N Gut on the front strut inserts is a PAIN, but well worth it. I know that Wayne (on the > list) found a very nice tool to cut the struts with. (Perhaps if he reads this, he can let you know where he picked it > up from.) The tool made the cutting MUCH easier than the sawzall. > > Good Luck. > Mo
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#4. Monroe rears installed.. impressions and a 'duh.. - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 23:52:00 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Monroe rears installed.. impressions and a 'duh.. Ordered them from rockauto on Tuesday afternoon, they arrived at my house on Thursday. Backed the car up on ramps this AM and went to work. The convertible is really EASY to get the top mounts off. Open the top far enough that the cover for the compartment is open and the top is up at the back, pry off a plastic cover on each side, use 13mm socket with extension to remove the stud nuts. Time - mebbe 5 minutes for both. Bottom - hardest part of removal was finding an 18mm socket. Had one in my Snap-On impact sockets (which are in 1mm increments). 1/2" drive - the bottoms came right off. Did the passenger side first - it had no gas pressure left - or very little. The shock barely expanded when removed from the car. Took the RSM off to get the bumper/boot off (reused) - put on a new E46 RSM (these are now also the listed PN for the E36/M3 - go figure, and they are different than the E36 M3 originals..), bolt it all together (oh - the factory nut on the shock shaft - what's with 14mm? Didn't have an open end - Crescent wrench had to do. The new one had a 15mm nut.) Anyway - it was now assembled and ready to install. SWMBO helped by putting the RSM stud nuts in place while I lifted it up and into the hole in the body (which on the convertible is VERY strong, reinforced around it with multiple layers of steel and a continuous two layer flat section between the two top mounts.) My challenge was - get the bottom up so it could be bolted up. The Monroe must be quite high pressure. I could not compress it fully using all my weight with it off the car. I ended up using a 2x4 and my floor jack - the 2x4 levering the bottom up as I raised one end of the 2x4 with my floor jack. I felt this way was fairly clever - but it did involve quite a bit of cursing and sweating and wiggling of stuff under the car. Took about 45 minutes to get the bottom bolt back in. The drivers side came off equally as easy - went together with the new shock/RSM/old-bumper and boot and was ready to go back in. A complication - the muffler was now restricting the height I could lift the 2x4 with the jack. I tried adding additional boards, a big socket under the bottom shock mount and a great deal more cursing. After about 45 minutes of this - I had the epiphany - it dawned on me that it might be LOTS easier moving the body relative to the rear wheel. 'duh Moved the floor jack around to the rear lift point on that side - in about 2 minutes had things lined up and the bolt in. Lowered it back down (the rear wheel never came off the ramp) and tightened the bottom bolt. Total time - 2.5 hours. Should take about 30-45 minutes if I ever do it again to a convertible. My impressions - WOW. A working suspension is a GOOD THING. The drivers side shock - which had been dripping oil 3 months ago when I did the clutch, had stopped dripping, 'cause most of the oil was out of it. There was about 3" of free play before any damping took place. The passengers side still had full damping, but it wasn't very strong damping. They are both in the trash. My impression after driving it for about 50 miles, all sorts of roads. Still a WOW. Much nicer small bump response. The rear no longer bangs around or kicks me in the butt. Much better feel on high-speed sweepers, isn't floating, and overall much more controlled feeling. $39/each - and very nice. I'm happy with them. The rear now feels much more like what I remember the new E36/M3's to feel like when I test drove them ten years ago. Next weekend - the front struts. If anyone has any DIY hints that will make me go 'duh when I figure them out myself - please pass them along.. Best, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ====================================================================
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#5. MPOWER - from jmihal@jt-designs.com
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Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2005 21:24:51 -0700 (PDT) From: <jmihal@jt-designs.com> Subject: MPOWER Ok, I know this is not the M5 Board, but I thought some of you may be interested in what we have been up to at JT-Designs. I built an M5 powered desert race car, some would call it a dune buggy, but it is really not a play toy. We race the Nevada 1000 this next week and are offering live photos, hourly short video clips, and longer video clips at the end of the day starting this Thursday, at www.bmwoffroad.com .. There will also be video and pictures from the drivers meeting, contingency, and probably an interview to be posted Wednesday. I hope you all can get a kick out of this, we do. Happy 4th! Best Regards, Jim Mihal JT-Designs
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#6. Dual pump conversion almost done... - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 15:19:15 EDT From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Dual pump conversion almost done... I started on my dual pump conversion today, actually in the morning.. I used a primary pump from an early car Pre 95 for the LHS, and then modified the factory pump with a return line going to it...I have to go buy the T fitting for the feed line and some hose tomorrow morning. Then test it out! If it works it will be a dual pump conversion for less than 200 dollars! I have pictures I will post a thread on Bimmerforums with the pictures when I get finished, if anyone wants to see the pictures of how to convert the factory pump to have a return line. Have a good 4th!!! Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#7. Paging Amhed in Atlanta! - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 15:20:11 EDT From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Paging Amhed in Atlanta! Email me when you get this. Thanks, Gary Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#8. Re: RE: More Brake Pedal Questions - bad master cylinder? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 09:06:49 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: RE: More Brake Pedal Questions - bad master cylinder? on 7/2/05 4:47 PM, Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: >> If so, how difficult a job is it? I am sure I CAN do it. Just not sure I >> WANT to...... > > I looked at it on the E36.. actually - looks like an afternoon > job including the lily gilding (unnecessary cleaning in my case, > painting things that no one will ever see..) and bleeding. The > hardest part IMHO will be the bleeding. R&R of the M/C itself is surprisingly easy, about a 2 beer job, takes an hour. Don's correct that bleeding the brakes afterwards takes longer. The hardest part, however, is paying for the new M3 M/C, about $340. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Oil gauges, coolers, temps - from geoff atkinson
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Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 10:43:54 -0400 From: "geoff atkinson" <pskalc@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil gauges, coolers, temps Jim, Thank you so much for that temperature information. I will certainly be adding a cooler so I'm not sure, in that situation, if a 300 degree would be necessary, as Carlos hinted... Thank you for that info too, BTW. Can anyone confirm temps with a cooler? If not, then I will go with the higher reading. Thanks again. -Geoff Atkinson >You're going to need a 300 deg. gauge. 250 deg with be normal-ish <g>; I >see that on a regular basis on the race car, no oil cooler. > >Jim Bassett >
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Koni SA or Bilstein Sports? - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 11:13:25 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Koni SA or Bilstein Sports? > know that Wayne (on the list) found a very nice tool to cut the struts with. (Perhaps if he reads this, he can let you know where he picked it up from.) The tool is a simple muffler cut-off tool available in every auto parts store. It looks like this: http://tinyurl.com/a9l5v and it makes the cutting much easier. The only hitch is to remember that you have the tool and not start using the Sawzall only to have Chester remind you about the tool. -Wayne