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#1. Re: [E36M3] Lowering versus toe alignment - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2005 18:54:53 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lowering versus toe alignment Carlos, I have the TCKline camber plates, and the slots for camber are side to side. Changing the camber with them most certainly does change the toe since the steering link length isn't changing. No camber plate can change that. The diagonal slots are intended for maximum caster adjustment, but since they are diagonal, they do of course change camber some also. I leave those alone once the caster is set, and use the side to side slots for camber only adjustment. In either case though, the toe will change if the camber changes. The instructions for them say to set your ideal toe (say a slight toe out) on the max camber setting. Then on minimum camber, you will have a bunch of toe-in for street driving. But it will change. I just leave them at my desired camber setting and set the toe to my desired toe, and leave them alone. No magic on those plates really. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2005 15:53:19 -0400 > From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lowering versus toe alignment > >>Simple reasoning tells me lowering just the front causes toe-in. > > Why? Experience tells me otherwise, as you lower the front, the tires toe > out. > >>I do recall TCKline tell a group of us here in Seattle (actually Auburn) >>that lowering the car (front and rear equally or nearly equally) does >>not change the toe however changing camber does impact toe. > > I would respectfully disagree, both lowering and changing > camber _both_ affect toe. However since I believe T.C. understands this > his front camber > plates are made with geometry such that they're only camber plates. So > you > can slam them one > way or the other (max and min negative camber) and they won't change your > toe (no idea what happens to > caster but I would think if it changes it is minimal). As far as I know > his plates are probably the only ones that can do that. > The slots don't just go side to side like most plates, they travel > diagonally. Maybe the Turner ones can do that as well but I somehow doubt > it. > > Carlos.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: I Stock Spring Option - from dhogg
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Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2005 22:25:39 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: I Stock Spring Option Having been all over the block on this one, I can tell you go with a spring/shock/bar combo that's already been professionally sorted out. List sponsors Turner and Bimmerworld both have excellent setups that will get you competitive immediately. And both are driveable to and from the track - which of course is a question of caution on the road and driver durability. Don't straddle fat, dead groundhogs. I did my first IS year on H&R Sport springs and Koni SA's with Eibach bars. I guarantee my car leaned more than any other on the track, but I probably had the smoothest ride, and I took 3rd out of five in class in my rookie race at WGI. The winners will typically out-spend you and out-drive you. Don't sweat it. There's room for everybody as long as you're safe and reasonably fast. Come on in, the water's fine! I believe that the Bimmerworld setup has DA shocks. With these, you can set compression to zero for the road trip and adjust them back up to race levels at the track. That helps a lot with the road harshness. With my Koni's at least, it's easy. I've gotta admit, though, that constantly bumming trailer space in the rain gets a little old. Dave Hogg
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: I Stock Spring Option - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2005 20:05:35 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: I Stock Spring Option On Jul 6, 2005, at 7:27 PM, dhogg wrote: > I believe that the Bimmerworld setup has DA shocks. That is correct. - Mark, Bimmerworld base setup, plus mods ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#4. 750 LB Eibach Race Springs F/S - from Jeff Bjerke
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 01:03:46 -0500 From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: 750 LB Eibach Race Springs F/S MessageWith all the talk about race springs, thought I'd mention a pair I have for sale. They are Eibach part number 0500.225.0750 which breaks down into 5" long x 2.25" Inside Diameter x 750 LB. They were used on a Ground Control coil-over suspension for a very short time. Still like new condition. Private me if interested. Jeff Bjerke
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Lowering versus toe alignment - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 08:06:13 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lowering versus toe alignment >I have the TCKline camber plates, and the slots for camber are side to side. >Changing the camber with them most certainly does change the toe since the >steering link length isn't changing. No camber plate can change that. I should probably clarify that the ones I was adjusting were on an E46 M3. They were probably either a) a different design b)perhaps an updated version c) maybe a hybrid version for those that need to drive the car on the street. The slots most definitely did not go side to side. I thought that was odd until I spoke to the owner of the E46 and told me verbatim what T.C.'s instructions were for adjustment. Then I showed him the way Jay Morris mentioned on this list on how he adjusts his plates (jacking up the opposite side of the car and using gravity as your friend). :-) Cheers, -Carlos.
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#6. [E36M3] AC cold only when moving - from Dave Readling
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 05:48:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Dave Readling <dreadling@yahoo.com> Subject: [E36M3] AC cold only when moving My 95's AC blows cold air only when it's moving. When it's stopped, it delivers copious amounts of hot air - not pleasant in these mid-90s days. Would someone please point me in the direction of a cure? Dave __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#7. Climate control walkthrough errata - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:50:37 -0400 (EDT) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Climate control walkthrough errata My climate control died a few weeks ago. Nothing weird like blasting hot air at full fan, but it wouldn't stay on at first, and then it died completely. I did the fix and it worked great -- many thanks to whoever discovered it, and to Richard Swope for the walkthrough. The pictures are a huge help. There is one mistake in the write up, though: the screws he describes as being Philips head and pretty soft (and easy to strip out) were, at least on my unit, actually torx drive. I'm not one hundred percent sure, but I believe they took a T7 bit. Everything else went as described. Zach
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Floor jack recommendations - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 10:51:17 EDT From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Floor jack recommendations Unless you run a professional shop dropping 500-700 bucks on a jack is really not worth the money.....I have a 60 dollar Sams jack that I have used for the last 5 years almost on a daily basis, I do some side work on BMW's...When it dies I buy another one and it's made in the same place.....Taiwan... Like all topics it is personal preference...Personally the cheap Jack that works the same does a fine job in my shop... Gary Gray Pro Bike/Pro Bike Cycling Team
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#9. RE: Digest Welcome - from FS
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 12:34:43 -0400 From: "FS" <freestat@stny.rr.com> Subject: RE: Digest Welcome UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST
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#10. Thanks for Radiator reply's! - from Townsend, William
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Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 13:16:46 -0400 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: Thanks for Radiator reply's! Thanks for all those that replied. I ended up doing more digging on the subject and decided to go with the Euro M3 radiator by Behr. (also the same in the s54 M-Coupe) Talked to the Behr rep and they have addressed the breaking neck issue by reinforcing those areas. Picked it up for $289 w/free shipping. The next cheapest with shipping was around $500 so we'll see how this works out. I measured the core in my 96 M3 and it was 33MM and a single row radiator. I also talked to PWR and Zionsville and their cores are a bit larger. The PWR 57.5MM is a big gain in cooling over stock and is a double row radiator. So even the basic drop in aluminum radiators do have more cooling capability. I guess the single row design is the most efficient since there are fewer runner edges that are not in contact with the cooling fins. Thanks, --Bill 96 M3 red PS: changed my control arms last night and it was not that hard to do! About an hour a side. Both inner ball joints had a minor amount of play and was the mystery rattle in my front end. The scary discovery was some knuckle head had tack welded one of the outer ball joint nuts. Discovered (after cutting the top half of the nut off with an air cutoff wheel) that they had cross threaded the nut and the threads were just crumbled steel. Nice work! Replaced with the 1995 M3 steel versions since I had the offset bushings.