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#1. RE: [E36M3]aluminum exh. manifold - from Lin Gary
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 15:39:28 -0400 From: "Lin Gary" <lin_gary@bah.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] <wtb> aluminum exh. manifold Oops, I meant s/s. Trying to replace the cast iron one and have already looked at the shorty jet hot options. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Jamie Howton [mailto:jhowton@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 3:23 PM To: Lin Gary Cc: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] <wtb> aluminum exh. manifold > Anyone have a ported/polished unit F/S? Or stock that I can work over? I have a stock cast Iron S50 exhaust manifold that I will sell ($100 plus shipping), but I have never heard of an Aluminum one. I don't think that Aluminum would withstand the exhaust gas temperatures without melting. You might be better off looking for a stainless steel manifold from an S52, I found one on Bimmerforums and after an afternoon with a die grinder, I opened it up quite nicely.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] comments needed on Yoko ADVAN A032R for auto use - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 12:40:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] comments needed on Yoko ADVAN A032R for auto use I also didn't see a significant savings compared to the other options. I mean, if they were $110 each or less, then that's something, but they were like $170, no? Chester --- cteague@cox.net wrote: > The 032R's aren't going to be as fast as the Victoracers or the V700's. If > you are running a very competitive class, I wouldn't recommend them. Of > course, for the SCCA national tour style events, the V710's have pretty much > wiped out the use of Victoracers. > > So it just depends what level of performance you are after.
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#3. Re:aluminum exh. Manifold - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 15:00:23 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: <wtb> aluminum exh. Manifold on 7/11/05 2:46 PM, "Lin Gary" <lin_gary@bah.com> wrote: > Anyone have a ported/polished unit F/S? Or stock that I can work over? If you mean an intake manifold, then the Schrick is the only one I've heard of; around $1200 I think. Can't imagine it's worth it unless one is desperate for that last fractional hp gain. One of the good things about the stock plastic manifold is that precision moulding gives it a really smooth interior finish and precise dimensions. If you do mean the exhaust manifold then it won't be aluminum, which would melt. I've got a stock 3.2 stainless set that can be had for small money if you're looking for something to mess around with. Otherwise aftermarket equal length headers start at about $599 (Bimmerworld) and head on up from there. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#4. re: AC drain line - from Barrett Nicholas
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 13:12:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Barrett Nicholas <barrettn@swbell.net> Subject: re: AC drain line I've always found it from below by running the AC full blast until there condensate draining from the unit (not hard to do here in Houston). If I remember right, it comes down on the passenger (?) side of the transmission. I've not experienced what you describe on my e36, but have seen it on another car. I do have a musty sock oder whenever I don't drive the car for a few days that I still need to track down (it's not the microfilter) that lead me to check the drian on my car, but it's working fine. hth, BArrett
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#5. Surprising suspension find turns ghetto - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 16:24:32 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: Surprising suspension find turns ghetto I was fitting 17x9 up front this weekend and decided to swap the front strut hats as I've heard before this is good for some extra camber. During the disassembly process I noticed the right side hat orientation arrow was pointed toward the fender and thus made a mental note so I could repeat upon reinstallation after I swapped hats. I was surprised to find that when pulling the left side that was the arrow pointed towards the front of the car (headlights). After studing things closer and cheating by calling a local friend and fellow list subscriber, I realized the arrows point forward. (I hope this is right at least) Looking at the design you can see how it is engineered for a bunch of positive caster, offsetting the stut housing more aft towards the rear of car. You could also see in the plate design the camber gained by switching side to side. Not sure how it got this way, as the car has the original stahl struts, I did notice last year when I purchased this car used, the passenger side lower control arm looked cleaner, and perhaps recently replaced. Perhaps they had a ball joint give up and somebody reinstalled the strut incorrectly. in any case I guess I figured out why its been eating tire edges off the right inner side. The way I figure is since the hat pointed out, caster was way outta spec and therefore turning caused undesireable variations in caster. If toe was bad, both tires would've likely been abused on the inside. I'll reset toe as I am a sure it changed after all this work. I verified before this exercise I had a broken passenger front spring. The lowest coil broke off, not a full ring but at least 2/3 the way round. I just pulled the souvenior out last week during an oil change since I didn't want it to fall off and sacrifice a tire. Ride height/handling had not changed severely and I did distinctly notice hearing the rattle so I am pretty sure it broke recently since I usually do a visual when rotating tires/oil services. Well to sum it up I flipped the hats and reinstalled the springs. I know this is really ghetto, but I just cut the drivers side spring to match since it wasn't much coil. I then spun the end of the coil end around to fit the spring shackle recess and after setting it back down that is when the lowering took effect. I measured before and after and its was good for 3/4" of an inch, which I must admit looks prudent. It will do until I figure out what spings and dampers to replace the originals. Just thought I'd share. Patrick Goss 97 M3/4
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#6. Re: Peake Research Codes... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 15:29:29 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Peake Research Codes... I've sent the Peake Research code table pdf file privately to a couple of people. For convenience I've now put it up for download here: <http://homepage.mac.com/fergusonadvertising/FileSharing1.html> Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#7. WTB: 3.2 Stainless headers - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 13:48:35 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: WTB: 3.2 Stainless headers I also am looking for a set of 3.2 stainless headers. If anyone has some sitting around, please let me know. Thanks, Rob Hatrak 95 M3 Sin City Chapter - BMW CCA
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#8. Cam ends square? - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 17:06:21 -0400 From: Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Cam ends square? Interesting observation: I've always been under the impression that the ends of the cams are square. However, when the flywheel is locked at TDC and the blocks are on my cams, the top of my exhaust cam is tilted 10 or 12 degrees. Stock cams, and as far as I know they've never been out of the car (definately not in the last eight years). So, if you were one of those who likes to find TDC by placing a straightedge across the tops of the cam ends... Chip Mitchell
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Cam ends square? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 14:10:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cam ends square? So you were just saying that your cams locate correctly but the top edge of the cam is not parallel with the top of the head, correct? I think this is in line with what I've seen... Chester --- Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> wrote: > Interesting observation: I've always been under the impression that > the ends of the cams are square. However, when the flywheel is locked > at TDC and the blocks are on my cams, the top of my exhaust cam is > tilted 10 or 12 degrees. Stock cams, and as far as I know they've > never been out of the car (definately not in the last eight years). > > So, if you were one of those who likes to find TDC by placing a > straightedge across the tops of the cam ends...
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#10. Re:aluminum exh. Manifold - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 16:21:27 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: <wtb> aluminum exh. Manifold When I wrote this: > If you mean an intake manifold, then the Schrick is the only one I've heard > of; around $1200 I think. Can't imagine it's worth it unless one is desperate > for that last fractional hp gain. One of the good things about the stock > plastic manifold is that precision moulding gives it a really smooth interior > finish and precise dimensions. I had completely forgotten that there's a flow test of the Schrick intake compared to both the S50 and S52 stock versions here: <http://www.bmw-m.net/techdata/schrick.htm> Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!