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#1. Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:02:16 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection Sorry to post simple questions like this, but here goes: 1) Is rear camber adjustable from the factory? If so how? 2) I have the oem HK premium sound system, can you easily hook up a sub to the amp behind the trunk liner. I thought I remember someone saying it already has empty ports for this. Fairly certain my beckerHK traffic pro can split a signal to the amp. Thanks as always, Patrick Goss 97 M3/4
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:25:44 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection Patrick, Yes, rear camber is adjustable. Look on the lower control arm, at the outer bolt. It's an eccentric bolt with lines on the washer. Loosen, and turn, and that will change the camber. Note the toe-in will change at the same time, so you will likely need to reset toe also. Loosen the front trailing arm bracket for that. Chris > Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:02:16 -0400 > From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection > > Sorry to post simple questions like this, but here goes: > > 1) Is rear camber adjustable from the factory? If so how?
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:31:33 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection Thanks! I am actually embarrassed that I didn't know that :( Still confused why at birth bmw provided for it in the rear and forgot the front. Aren't these street legal race-cars! -----Original Message----- From: cteague@cox.net [mailto:cteague@cox.net] Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 11:27 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:25:44 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection Patrick, Yes, rear camber is adjustable. Look on the lower control arm, at the outer bolt. It's an eccentric bolt with lines on the washer. Loosen, and turn, and that will change the camber. Note the toe-in will change at the same time, so you will likely need to reset toe also. Loosen the front trailing arm bracket for that. Chris > Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 11:02:16 -0400 > From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection > > Sorry to post simple questions like this, but here goes: > > 1) Is rear camber adjustable from the factory? If so how? ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 08:48:26 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting I have some similar symptoms, and initially it was remedied by adjusting my CS to allow full release. Ben's response, though he is highly respected in this community and by myself, seems extreme. I also find that if I'm lazy about pedal stroke I don't get full disengagement, with a clutch stop set close to the release point. I need to stroke the pedal sharply to get full disengagement, I believe do in part to the CDV in the clutch hydraulic system. Potentially my clutch needs a proper slave-removal bleed and not a new pressure plate/clutch disk. YMMV KLBurgess -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:27:23 -0400 From: "Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)" <alexander.avedis@baesystems.com> Subject: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting Hi folks, I'm not sure if this was previously covered but I have an intermittent difficulty shifting into 1st or 2nd gear from a standstill or creep. Like wise going into reverse from a standstill. If I push harder on the shifter [obviously with the clutch pedal down to the floor or clutch stop] the car will actually move forward or backward depending on the gear. If I put the car in gear with the engine off and then start it with the clutch depressed the car will creep a little bit forward or backward depending on the gear. Again this only happens intermittently. The variable seems to be the weather. The hotter it is the more likely the difficult shifts occur. On cooler days the shifts are smooth and crisp. Overall the clutch starts to grab about ½ inch off the floor and is very smooth. I'm thinking the clutch is not releasing fully from the flywheel. Is there a way to determine whether it is the slave or the clutch master? Can a non leaking slave cylinder be bad internally? Ditto for the clutch master? Does the Clutch delay Valve come into play here? Is there a way to tell if the clutch disk is hanging up on the input shaft? Thanks for your collective wisdom. Alex Avedis 98 M3/4 76k miles NJ Chapter -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:55:52 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting It's definitely a clutch release issue. We've seen this a lot. Assuming iff it's stock and older (anything over 5 years old), it's most likely a failing pressure plate. Only remedy is replacement. Best Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201-444-8150 http://www.rebmw.com
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#5. Two mundane questions - from Carl Stern
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:42:09 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Two mundane questions 1) My folding reflective windshield sun shade is due for a replacement. There must be a favorite type/brand out there. What is it? 2) What should I treat the door window rubber with (2 door) to stop the window from screeching when it goes up and down? Silicon? Talcum powder? ?? thanks, Carl
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 08:58:46 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Two quickies - rear camber, and sub connection << Thanks! I am actually embarrassed that I didn't know that :( >> Don't be! I've actually had alignment shops (yes, more than one) try to tell me that the rear camber isn't adjustable. I've had to physically point it out to them. ;) Jonathan L.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Two mundane questions - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 10:04:34 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Two mundane questions I'm pretty happy with the BMW branded shade. Sturdy and effective and fits the window perfectly. For rubber seals, I use Gummipflege on all my rubber to stop squeeks and groans. It is also available from your local dealer. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Carl Stern [mailto:carl.stern@xilinx.com] Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 9:57 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Two mundane questions Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:42:09 -0600 From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> Subject: Two mundane questions 1) My folding reflective windshield sun shade is due for a replacement. There must be a favorite type/brand out there. What is it? 2) What should I treat the door window rubber with (2 door) to stop the window from screeching when it goes up and down? Silicon? Talcum powder? ?? thanks, Carl ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Re: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 12:26:50 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting Of course, my recommendations were assuming the obvious were addressed. As per BMWs SI Bulletin 23 01 99, dated February 1999. SUBJECT: Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift - Diagnostic Tips MODEL: All with Manual Transmission Situation: Transmission may be difficult to shift especially first gear engagement and/or gear shift linkage is binding. Note: Field observations have indicated that a transmission which is difficult to shift (especially into first gear) is primarily a clutch related problem and only in isolated cases a failure in the transmission itself. Procedure: If the above customer complaint is received the following diagnostic tips will assist in troubleshooting a clutch, gear shift linkage or transmission problem. Verify the customer complaint: Note: Engage the parking brake and assure that no people or objects are in the vehicle's path. a.. Run the engine at idle speed b.. Press the clutch pedal to the floor c.. From the neutral stick shift position engage first gear If first gear is difficult to engage, hold the stick shift at the resistance point (approximately half of the total stick shift travel) with constant force. Then switch the ignition off with the other hand. Diagnosis 1: If first gear now engages completely, i.e. the stick shift moves to the end position without any additional pressure applied, there is a problem in the clutch system. Explanation: Because the clutch does not uncouple completely, a residual torque is transmitted to the transmission input shaft when the engine is running. This inhibits the release and meshing of the sliding sleeve, in the transmission, at the end of the synchronization process. Turning the engine off relieves the input shaft of this torque thus simulating a completely uncoupled clutch. Diagnosis 2: If the stick shift remains at the resistance point, there is a problem in the external gear shift linkage or in the transmission. Cause: Diagnosis 1: Possible causes for a clutch problem as per Diagnosis 1 above are: a.. Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly / grease dried out. b.. Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft. c.. Clutch disc wobble. d.. Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism. e.. Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve. f.. Clutch disc or pressure plate broken / worn out. Diagnosis 2: Possible causes for gear shift linkage binding and/or internal transmission problems as per Diagnosis 2 above: a.. External gearshift linkage binding (shift rod joints stiff). b.. Stick shift bellows boot incorrectly installed (positioned too high or too low on the stick shift lever). c.. Sound deadening between the outer gear shift linkage and the body incorrectly installed and/or distorted. Possible causes inside of the transmission: a.. Faulty synchronization. b.. Internal gear shift linkage binding. c.. Water in the transmission fluid. (rare) Correction: Diagnosis 1: a.. Remove the transmission. b.. Remove and/or inspect the pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearing. (Replace components if necessary.) Note: The plastic sliding sleeve which the clutch release bearing slides on should never be lubricated since the grease will allow the clutch wear particles and other contamination to build up and cause an increase in clutch pedal effort. See Service Information bulletin 210194 for further information. c.. Carefully clean the transmission input shaft (tapered splines and guide section of shaft). d.. Using a paint brush, apply a thin coating of "Esso UNIREX S2" grease on the transmission input shaft (tapered splines and guide section of the shaft). Note: "Esso UNIREX S2" taper spline grease was phased into production approximately 4/98 and replaces "Microlube GL261 BMW" grease. The new grease has proven to be more resistant to lubrication breakdown under all operating conditions and is available under BMW part number 83 23 9 416 138. Only use "Esso UNIREX S2" taper spline grease when repairs become necessary which involve the cleaning and lubrication of the transmission input shaft. e.. Reinstall the transmission. For additional information on troubleshooting the clutch refer to the repair manual section 2190. Diagnosis 2: a.. Carefully inspect the gear shift linkage areas described in Diagnosis 2 section above. Repair as necessary. b.. If the gear shift linkage is functioning properly without binding the cause is an internal fault in the transmission. Note: If the transmission is replaced due to an internal fault, using a paint brush apply a thin coating of "Esso UNIREX S2" grease on the transmission input shaft (tapered splines and guide section of the shaft) before installing the new transmission. Parts Information: Part Number Qty Description 83 23 9 416 138 1 "Esso UNIREX S2" (40g tube) Hope this helps. YMMV. Best Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201-444-8150 http://www.rebmw.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 11:56 AM Subject: [E36M3] RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 08:48:26 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting I have some similar symptoms, and initially it was remedied by adjusting my CS to allow full release. Ben's response, though he is highly respected in this community and by myself, seems extreme. I also find that if I'm lazy about pedal stroke I don't get full disengagement, with a clutch stop set close to the release point. I need to stroke the pedal sharply to get full disengagement, I believe do in part to the CDV in the clutch hydraulic system. Potentially my clutch needs a proper slave-removal bleed and not a new pressure plate/clutch disk. YMMV KLBurgess -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:27:23 -0400 From: "Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)" <alexander.avedis@baesystems.com> Subject: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting Hi folks, I'm not sure if this was previously covered but I have an intermittent difficulty shifting into 1st or 2nd gear from a standstill or creep. Like wise going into reverse from a standstill. If I push harder on the shifter [obviously with the clutch pedal down to the floor or clutch stop] the car will actually move forward or backward depending on the gear. If I put the car in gear with the engine off and then start it with the clutch depressed the car will creep a little bit forward or backward depending on the gear. Again this only happens intermittently. The variable seems to be the weather. The hotter it is the more likely the difficult shifts occur. On cooler days the shifts are smooth and crisp. Overall the clutch starts to grab about ½ inch off the floor and is very smooth. I'm thinking the clutch is not releasing fully from the flywheel. Is there a way to determine whether it is the slave or the clutch master? Can a non leaking slave cylinder be bad internally? Ditto for the clutch master? Does the Clutch delay Valve come into play here? Is there a way to tell if the clutch disk is hanging up on the input shaft? Thanks for your collective wisdom. Alex Avedis 98 M3/4 76k miles NJ Chapter -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:55:52 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting It's definitely a clutch release issue. We've seen this a lot. Assuming iff it's stock and older (anything over 5 years old), it's most likely a failing pressure plate. Only remedy is replacement. Best Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201-444-8150 http://www.rebmw.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Re: [E36M3] RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 13:13:27 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting >I believe do in part to the CDV in the clutch hydraulic system. Potentially my clutch needs a proper slave-removal bleed and not a new pressure >plate/clutch disk. YMMV >KLBurgess May I piggy-back a question? What's the fix to the 5th gear won't return to center in neutral position problem? More detailed, when you pull the lever out of 5th gear to neutral a normally working transmission now springs the lever to the center in the H-pattern. My car just kinda feels like a spoon in a bowl of noodles so hunting for 3rd gear becomes challenging. Normally when it springs to the center you know 3rd gear is straight up (or forward). In my car sometimes I've selected 5th again because there's no feel to where the shifter is in the gate. The odd thing is that if you select a different gear and then pop it back into neutral it springs back as it should. The problem is only in 5th gear. I heard there's a Roundel article and Mike Miller? addressed this. Anyone know which issue and if it's available in some sort of transferrable format? (pdf or something along those lines). Carlos. 98 M3
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#10. Steering Weight and Rack Replacement - from Lew Becker
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Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 10:13:34 -0700 From: Lew Becker <lmb_cfls@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Steering Weight and Rack Replacement I had the steering rack (tie rods, some hoses, etc; but not the pump) replaced a couple of weeks ago on my 97 M3, and just had it aligned. The steering seems heavier (and did, to a greater extent, before the the alignment) than before (with same size 18x8.5 wheels and 245/35 size tires I've run for years). The shop that did the install is well regarded. When I inquired as to the proper steering rack to assure I maintained the proper steering ratio, I was told that the 95's had a different rack; but the 97's used the same rack as the other E36's (which I presume is what was installed). I suppose the heavier steering may simply result from "tightening" everything up; but, I'm not crazy about it. (I haven't checked tire pressures yet). Any thoughts? Thanks. Lew Becker