-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] water drip in foot wells - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 12:59:33 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] water drip in foot wells At 06:36 PM 7/10/2005, Doug Wirth wrote: >Does anyone know if there is a blowhole for the water to drip out of the >AC. I had some cold-water fall on my feet and the passenger seat this >weekend at an auto-x. I know some cars have a drip line for water to get >out of the AC unit. Some times they get clogged and need to get >compressed air shot through them to clean them out. Any idea where this >is or other areas that I should check? There is a drain tube, and it can get either clogged or in my case detached from what it's supposed to be draining. It's about 10" or so forward of the shifter, right behind the sunglass holder. Remove the OBC and the sunglass holder. Below/behind the sunglass holder is an IHKR control module. Move that out of the way and you should see the drain hose. It attaches to a nipple on the evaporator(?) and drops down through the transmission tunnel (I figured out where it was first by looking under the car :-)). The one on the 325is happened to be disconnected from the evaporator. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Busted radiator - from Jamie Howton
Top
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 15:50:31 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Busted radiator Well my car was spewing steam this weekend, 1/2 way through a test and tune track session last night. There is a very small leak at the top right hand side of the radiator core. I tried to seal it using ground black pepper (an old racer's trick I was told) which didn't work. I didn't run at all today and came home from the track a day early. I think I am going to go the spendy route and pick up one of the all aluminum radiators from Zionsville motorports and be done with radiator problems forever (lifetime warranty). This $ucks... -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. High beam and fog lights not working? - from Peter Fanning
Top
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 19:26:49 -0700 From: Peter Fanning <pbfanning@comcast.net> Subject: High beam and fog lights not working? Now that BMW has a couple years running Mini the Prince of Darkness must be after all BMW's. I've had ZKW headlights in the '98 M3/4 for a couple years. Both low beam bulbs blew in the last few days. I've swapped the high beam bulbs into the low beams while I wait for replacement Osram H1 bulbs. For some unknown reason now the high beams (installed old H1 bulbs from old broken fog lights) and the fog lights don't work. I checked the connections and they appear to be good. I checked the fuses and they appear to be good. I even swapped the high and low beam relays, no difference. Everything worked fine before the low beams blew. The fog lights and high beams worked when the first low beam blew. Any ideas on what to check next? Maybe I missed something when I looked over everything? Thanks for any insight the group can provide. Peter Fanning '95 318ti '98 M3/4 '03 530i
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. check engine light: incorrect purge flow? - from Theodore Serbinski
Top
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2005 16:29:48 -0400 From: Theodore Serbinski <stanson@gmail.com> Subject: check engine light: incorrect purge flow? Hey guys, was running the Peake tool today and discovered a new engine code along with the infamous FE: Large EVAP leak detected that I just can't seem to get rid of (have a few more things to try though). Anyways, the code that came up was FC: Incorrect purge flow. Any ideas what this is and what I need to do to fix this? Do I need to fix this before driving the car on a roadtrip this upcoming weekend? Thanks, ted '97 M3/4
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. [E36M3] WTB: Used Front Struts for Koni cut-n-gut project - from Chris Peterson
Top
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2005 18:51:24 -0700 From: "Chris Peterson" <CarveRoad@aol.com> Subject: [E36M3] WTB: Used Front Struts for Koni cut-n-gut project <!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <title></title> </head> <body> <font size="2"><font face="Tahoma,sans-serif">If you've got some stockers in good shape with all the of the tabs still in place, I'll take em!<br> <br> Thanks<br> Chris Peterson<br> Las Vegas<br> </font></font> </body> </html>
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Proxes RA1 - from Ahmad Lutfeali
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 10:44:50 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Proxes RA1 Just wanted to share this with the group. I have 2000 hard track miles (approx 15 days) on the Proxes RA1 and they may end up lasting me one more weekend. Just amazed. Ahmad
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Seat back cargo net - from Steve Crowl
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 09:52:06 -0500 From: "Steve Crowl" <scrowl@austin.rr.com> Subject: Seat back cargo net Hi all. Anyone replace the cargo net on the seat back? Something has broken on mine and it is loose. How does it come off? Thanks, Steve
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. FW: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting--UPDATE - from Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 12:15:53 -0400 From: "Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)" <alexander.avedis@baesystems.com> Subject: FW: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting--UPDATE Hi all, I'm not sure if I quite call this a fix just yet but, I removed the aftermarket clutch stop altogether and now the shifting is as smooth as ever. There is more "room" after the clutch releases for pedal travel so now the clutch engages about 1.5-2"'s off the floor. While on the lift I checked for slave fluid leaks and fluid level. Both were fine. Examination of the clutch master also found no leaks. If the pressure plate is weakening I suspect I will eventually have a return of the symptoms. I'll keep you all posted. The original post and responses are below for archiving purposes. Cheers and thanks for the wisdom! Alex Avedis 98 M3/4 76k miles ======================================================================== -----Original Message----- From: Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering [mailto:ben@rogueengineering.com] Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 12:27 PM To: Burgess, Kim L; E36M3 Cc: Avedis, Alexander (US SSA) Subject: Re: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting Of course, my recommendations were assuming the obvious were addressed. As per BMWs SI Bulletin 23 01 99, dated February 1999. SUBJECT: Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift - Diagnostic Tips MODEL: All with Manual Transmission Situation: Transmission may be difficult to shift especially first gear engagement and/or gear shift linkage is binding. Note: Field observations have indicated that a transmission which is difficult to shift (especially into first gear) is primarily a clutch related problem and only in isolated cases a failure in the transmission itself. Procedure: If the above customer complaint is received the following diagnostic tips will assist in troubleshooting a clutch, gear shift linkage or transmission problem. Verify the customer complaint: Note: Engage the parking brake and assure that no people or objects are in the vehicle's path. a.. Run the engine at idle speed b.. Press the clutch pedal to the floor c.. From the neutral stick shift position engage first gear If first gear is difficult to engage, hold the stick shift at the resistance point (approximately half of the total stick shift travel) with constant force. Then switch the ignition off with the other hand. Diagnosis 1: If first gear now engages completely, i.e. the stick shift moves to the end position without any additional pressure applied, there is a problem in the clutch system. Explanation: Because the clutch does not uncouple completely, a residual torque is transmitted to the transmission input shaft when the engine is running. This inhibits the release and meshing of the sliding sleeve, in the transmission, at the end of the synchronization process. Turning the engine off relieves the input shaft of this torque thus simulating a completely uncoupled clutch. Diagnosis 2: If the stick shift remains at the resistance point, there is a problem in the external gear shift linkage or in the transmission. Cause: Diagnosis 1: Possible causes for a clutch problem as per Diagnosis 1 above are: a.. Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly / grease dried out. b.. Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft. c.. Clutch disc wobble. d.. Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism. e.. Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve. f.. Clutch disc or pressure plate broken / worn out. Diagnosis 2: Possible causes for gear shift linkage binding and/or internal transmission problems as per Diagnosis 2 above: a.. External gearshift linkage binding (shift rod joints stiff). b.. Stick shift bellows boot incorrectly installed (positioned too high or too low on the stick shift lever). c.. Sound deadening between the outer gear shift linkage and the body incorrectly installed and/or distorted. Possible causes inside of the transmission: a.. Faulty synchronization. b.. Internal gear shift linkage binding. c.. Water in the transmission fluid. (rare) Correction: Diagnosis 1: a.. Remove the transmission. b.. Remove and/or inspect the pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearing. (Replace components if necessary.) Note: The plastic sliding sleeve which the clutch release bearing slides on should never be lubricated since the grease will allow the clutch wear particles and other contamination to build up and cause an increase in clutch pedal effort. See Service Information bulletin 210194 for further information. c.. Carefully clean the transmission input shaft (tapered splines and guide section of shaft). d.. Using a paint brush, apply a thin coating of "Esso UNIREX S2" grease on the transmission input shaft (tapered splines and guide section of the shaft). Note: "Esso UNIREX S2" taper spline grease was phased into production approximately 4/98 and replaces "Microlube GL261 BMW" grease. The new grease has proven to be more resistant to lubrication breakdown under all operating conditions and is available under BMW part number 83 23 9 416 138. Only use "Esso UNIREX S2" taper spline grease when repairs become necessary which involve the cleaning and lubrication of the transmission input shaft. e.. Reinstall the transmission. For additional information on troubleshooting the clutch refer to the repair manual section 2190. Diagnosis 2: a.. Carefully inspect the gear shift linkage areas described in Diagnosis 2 section above. Repair as necessary. b.. If the gear shift linkage is functioning properly without binding the cause is an internal fault in the transmission. Note: If the transmission is replaced due to an internal fault, using a paint brush apply a thin coating of "Esso UNIREX S2" grease on the transmission input shaft (tapered splines and guide section of the shaft) before installing the new transmission. Parts Information: Part Number Qty Description 83 23 9 416 138 1 "Esso UNIREX S2" (40g tube) Hope this helps. YMMV. Best Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201-444-8150 http://www.rebmw.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 11:56 AM Subject: [E36M3] RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 08:48:26 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting I have some similar symptoms, and initially it was remedied by adjusting my CS to allow full release. Ben's response, though he is highly respected in this community and by myself, seems extreme. I also find that if I'm lazy about pedal stroke I don't get full disengagement, with a clutch stop set close to the release point. I need to stroke the pedal sharply to get full disengagement, I believe do in part to the CDV in the clutch hydraulic system. Potentially my clutch needs a proper slave-removal bleed and not a new pressure plate/clutch disk. YMMV KLBurgess -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:27:23 -0400 From: "Avedis, Alexander (US SSA)" <alexander.avedis@baesystems.com> Subject: 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting Hi folks, I'm not sure if this was previously covered but I have an intermittent difficulty shifting into 1st or 2nd gear from a standstill or creep. Like wise going into reverse from a standstill. If I push harder on the shifter [obviously with the clutch pedal down to the floor or clutch stop] the car will actually move forward or backward depending on the gear. If I put the car in gear with the engine off and then start it with the clutch depressed the car will creep a little bit forward or backward depending on the gear. Again this only happens intermittently. The variable seems to be the weather. The hotter it is the more likely the difficult shifts occur. On cooler days the shifts are smooth and crisp. Overall the clutch starts to grab about ½ inch off the floor and is very smooth. I'm thinking the clutch is not releasing fully from the flywheel. Is there a way to determine whether it is the slave or the clutch master? Can a non leaking slave cylinder be bad internally? Ditto for the clutch master? Does the Clutch delay Valve come into play here? Is there a way to tell if the clutch disk is hanging up on the input shaft? Thanks for your collective wisdom. Alex Avedis 98 M3/4 76k miles NJ Chapter -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 09:55:52 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 98 M3/4 Difficulty shifting It's definitely a clutch release issue. We've seen this a lot. Assuming iff it's stock and older (anything over 5 years old), it's most likely a failing pressure plate. Only remedy is replacement. Best Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201-444-8150 http://www.rebmw.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] Re: Value on Stock Fuel Injectors - from Patrick Goss - PA
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 12:50:02 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Value on Stock Fuel Injectors Craig and/or list, Question: Can the 96+ 21.5 lb fuel injector be placed in the 95 M3 which originally had 17.5 lb without a computer upgrade? Curious why they used the stock 17.5 lb in the 95 M3 when 17.5 was used in other e36 non M cars like the 325 etc? Thanks, Patrick Goss -----Original Message----- From: Craig Perrin [mailto:cperrin@tampabay.rr.com] Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 9:56 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Value on Stock Fuel Injectors Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 09:52:26 -0400 From: Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: Value on Stock Fuel Injectors There's resale value in the 21.5 lb. 96+ M3 fuel injectors to someone who wants to replace a set of 17 lb. 95 M3 injectors. AA in Miami used 96+ injectors, with a custom-tuned chip, to rectify my detonation problems with 24 lb. injectors and "matching" Turner chip (which I had no trouble selling). I paid about $150 for a used set of 96+ injectors. They're probably plentiful on the market, though, since M3 owners usually upgrade to the 24 lb. injectors. Don't know about use of the 21.5 lb. injectors in non-M3 cars. Craig Perrin 95 M3 01 3.0 X5 On Jun 22, 2005, at 2:56 PM, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 14:12:19 -0400 > From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: Value on Stock Fuel Injectors > > Is there any resale value to the 3.2 M3 motor fuel injectors, (I think > 22lb or 24lb). I've heard some people using the taurus SHO 3.0 24lb > injectors as an upgrade in M3's which have me thinking the stock M3 FI > is maybe 22lb. In any event, maybe the stock M3 fuel injectors have > some value in other vehicles nonM3 e36, any bmw, or other mfg as well. > Just curious. > > Thanks in advance, > Patrick Goss > 97 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Engine mounts - from jeremy.conners@comcast.net
Top
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 19:17:09 +0000 From: jeremy.conners@comcast.net Subject: Engine mounts Group, I'm going to be doing some fairly comprehensive R&Rs on my 97 soon. One part will include removing the oil sump to safety wire the oil-pump sprocket nut. At that time I would also like to replace / upgrade the engine mounts. Which brings me to my question(s): What is the group consensus on replacing these with the factory parts? Is there a polyurethane version available? I know of some solid mount solutions that are available; however, the car will still be primarily street driven and solid mounting is not a proper solution in that case (IMO). Also, any BTDTs? Thanks in advance, Jeremy Conners 97 M3