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#1. Re: [E36M3] High beam and fog lights not working? - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 12:53:17 -0700 (PDT) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] High beam and fog lights not working? Oh, and also check to make sure you looked at all the fuses. I know for the low beams there are a total of three fuses (one main, then one for each light). I'm not close to the ETM so I don't know if that's the case for the high beams or fogs. Kent > Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 19:26:49 -0700 > From: Peter Fanning <pbfanning@comcast.net> > Subject: High beam and fog lights not working? > > Now that BMW has a couple years running Mini the Prince of Darkness must > be > after all BMW's. I've had ZKW headlights in the '98 M3/4 for a couple > years. Both low beam bulbs blew in the last few days. > > I've swapped the high beam bulbs into the low beams while I wait for > replacement Osram H1 bulbs. For some unknown reason now the high beams > (installed old H1 bulbs from old broken fog lights) and the fog lights > don't work. I checked the connections and they appear to be good. I > checked the fuses and they appear to be good. I even swapped the high and > low beam relays, no difference. Everything worked fine before the low > beams blew. The fog lights and high beams worked when the first low beam > blew. > > Any ideas on what to check next? Maybe I missed something when I looked > over everything? Thanks for any insight the group can provide. > > Peter Fanning > '95 318ti > '98 M3/4 > '03 530i > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] DTC P0133 and P0153 - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 12:58:24 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] DTC P0133 and P0153 On Mon, July 18, 2005 12:33 pm, Graeme Weston-Lewis said: > Any clues as to what might be causing this? Car has 87,000 miles. WAG is that your O2 sensor(s) are on their last legs and beginning to fail. Jim Bassett
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Flare nut wrenches - from Michael, Dave
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 16:10:46 -0400 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Flare nut wrenches Chester - I never thought I would disagree with someone who has so much more experience than I do with BMWs, but blech, phoey, yech on the 11mm Craftsman flare nut wrench. I found that mine did NOT work well, and ordered a snap-on. I rounded a fitting with the Craftsman - never even close with the snap-on. YMMV Dave > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 12:47:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Flare nut wrenches > > I've used the Sears flare nut wrench set with no problems for > the past few years...never had a need for another wrench, etc. > > Chester >
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#4. [E36M3] WTB: Used Front Struts for Koni cut-n-gut project - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 16:13:12 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: [E36M3] WTB: Used Front Struts for Koni cut-n-gut project At 03:32 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote: >If you've got some stockers in good shape with all the of the tabs still >in place, I'll take em! > >Thanks >Chris Peterson >Las Vegas Damn. Everyone is a day late. Installed the new Monroes yesterday, put the old ones out with the trash this morning. Someone over on BimmerForums needed a boot for the primary clutch cylinder, which was in the same load of trash. Unfortunately - trash is picked up by 10AM.. Bummer.. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#5. RE: Heat shield question - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 16:15:49 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Heat shield question At 04:02 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote: >Group, > >Here's another question: the large heat shield that separates the >cat-back from the prop shaft has degraded in the mounting area such that >some mounting bolts and washers have pulled-through. I could fix this buy >using fender washers or by procuring a new shield, but what are the >thoughts on removing the shield entirely. Has anyone thought about / done >this before? I'm sure most of you racers remove this part. > >Thanks in advance, >Jeremy Conners >97 M3 Not being a racer - bigger fender washers worked just fine.. found some about 2" in diameter.. :) _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S
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#6. RE: High beam and fog lights not working? - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 16:11:11 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@verizon.net> Subject: RE: High beam and fog lights not working? Peter asked: >Now that BMW has a couple years running Mini the Prince of Darkness must be >after all BMW's. I've had ZKW headlights in the '98 M3/4 for a couple >years. Both low beam bulbs blew in the last few days. > >I've swapped the high beam bulbs into the low beams while I wait for >replacement Osram H1 bulbs. For some unknown reason now the high beams >(installed old H1 bulbs from old broken fog lights) and the fog lights >don't work. I checked the connections and they appear to be good. I >checked the fuses and they appear to be good. I even swapped the high and >low beam relays, no difference. Everything worked fine before the low >beams blew. The fog lights and high beams worked when the first low beam >blew. > >Any ideas on what to check next? Maybe I missed something when I looked >over everything? Thanks for any insight the group can provide. I would do a system voltage check with the car running. When I've seen this many bulbs go bad all around the same time - it's usually a clue the voltage-regulator in the alternator has gone to meet it's maker and the alternator is putting out WAY more than it should.. Had one once that put 24-30V into the systems. Some control systems aren't going to like this... so if it is putting out more than it should (13.6V max more or less - depending on where you measure it) - don't drive the car until you get it fixed. >Peter Fanning >'95 318ti >'98 M3/4 >'03 530i Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence: 1998 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Flare nut wrenches - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 13:18:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Flare nut wrenches Hahahaha! Well, ask Wayne what I usually get and he'll tell you the good stuff. He usually laughs at me when I plop down to buy that $250 1/4 electronic torque wrench or the $3300 TIG welder. But who was it who wanted to use my torque wrench to replace rotors on his brembo big brakes? :) Perhaps hanging at Wayne's house has got me used to using Crapsman... :) But by all means, if you can afford it, go with Snap-On. I have a set of their combo wrenches and love them......so light and strong. I was just saying that I've never had a problem with the flare nut wrenches from Crapsman... But then again, maybe it's because I've loosened/tightened them often enough where they haven't seized. =) Chester --- "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> wrote: > Chester - > > I never thought I would disagree with someone who has so much more > experience than I do with BMWs, but blech, phoey, yech on the 11mm > Craftsman flare nut wrench. I found that mine did NOT work well, and > ordered a snap-on. I rounded a fitting with the Craftsman - never even > close with the snap-on. YMMV
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#8. Oil sump baffle kits - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 13:19:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: Oil sump baffle kits After considering all the same options, I went with the Turner baffle kit. It appears to work but is currently overkill on my car on the tracks I frequent. Also, I didn't safety wire my oil pump nut (it was still tight by the way) and simply did the high temp thread-lock. Lastly, the other thread about engine mounts, I too considered replacing mine but they were in very good shape and Brett Anderson also agreed they didn't need replacing, they were fine, the hydraulic mounts don't exactly wear out that fast. Regards, Rich > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 19:25:18 +0000 > From: jeremy.conners@comcast.net > Subject: Oil sump baffle kits > > Group, > > I'm going to be doing some fairly comprehensive R&Rs on my 97 soon. One part will include > removing the oil sump to safety wire the oil-pump sprocket nut. At that time I would also like > to baffle the sump. Which brings me to my question(s): What is the group consensus on a proper > baffle kit? I know there are solutions by Turner Motorsport and VAC Motorsports. What are the > thoughts on these? The VACMS kit seems to be of higher quality than the TMS kit for the same > price. Are there any other solutions available? I know I could upgrade to the M3 GT/LTW oil > sump, but this seems to be cost prohibitive. > > Also, any BTDTs?
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Oil sump baffle kits - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 13:26:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil sump baffle kits I replaced mine recently after reading some list members claiming that their mounts crumbled in their hands when they removed them. Mine were still solid after 110k Northeast miles. But I was in there and I had the mounts handy already.... Chester --- Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> wrote: > very good shape and Brett Anderson also agreed they didn't need replacing, > they were fine, the > hydraulic mounts don't exactly wear out that fast.
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#10. RE: Oil sump baffle kits...was...Engine mounts - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 13:36:20 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Oil sump baffle kits...was...Engine mounts There is the home grown approach for the back yard shade tree types. Thanks Chuck! http://www.brazeauracing.com/oilpan.htm KLBurgess -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 19:25:18 +0000 From: jeremy.conners@comcast.net Subject: Oil sump baffle kits Group, I'm going to be doing some fairly comprehensive R&Rs on my 97 soon. One part will include removing the oil sump to safety wire the oil-pump sprocket nut. At that time I would also like to baffle the sump. Which brings me to my question(s): What is the group consensus on a proper baffle kit? I know there are solutions by Turner Motorsport and VAC Motorsports. What are the thoughts on these? The VACMS kit seems to be of higher quality than the TMS kit for the same price. Are there any other solutions available? I know I could upgrade to the M3 GT/LTW oil sump, but this seems to be cost prohibitive. Also, any BTDTs? Thanks in advance, Jeremy Conners 97 M3
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#11. Monroes - front install and initial impressions.. - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 16:38:16 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Monroes - front install and initial impressions.. I gotta thank Neil Maller - for hints he gave me that allowed me to purchase most of the tools I needed before starting the job. And thank Dog a Harbor Freight opened about 30 minutes from my house. I posted the following on bimmerforums - where this was being discussed. Rather than retype the whole thing, I'll just edit and add a bit for this list.. Was a PITA to do the front struts - especially one side. I remembered why I much prefer working on my motorcycles to working on cars.. For installation - ignore Bentley. For some bizarre reason, Bentley has you completely disassembling the brake system to replace the strut. There is NO need to do that. The instructions that came with the struts were fairly clear - although they are simply pictograms - diagrams of how to do it, no words at all. The best instructions were from the BMW TIS. The TIS tells you to remove wheel, disconnect connectors for the ABS/brake-wear-sensor (little plastic box on the inner wheel well) - remove these from the strut along with the brake-hose grommet. Then put a stud back in the wheel hub and use wire to support the brakes/bearing-hub from the wheel-well. Only problem is - there was no obvious point to connect the top end of the wire. I finally settled on the bracket welded to the inner wheel-well that holds the top brake-hose fitting. Worked fine. Wrapped wire (real bailing-wire!) around the stud in the hub and this support and it held just fine. You then remove the nut for the roll-bar link, the two bottom nuts holding the hub casting to the strut, and finally the upper bolt-stud that goes through a bracket on the strut and the hub. This releases the bottom. You remove the 3 nuts on top and the strut is free. I found I could wiggle it between the roll-bar and the brake line enough to angle it out of the wheel-well and remove it. You then use your spring compressor (I used a $12 Harbor-Freight - crude but it worked) to compress the spring, remove the top nut on the strut shaft and R&R. Reassembly is the reverse.. except.. The got'cha's.. 1. The nut holding the upper roll-bar link to the strut.. the stud coming out of the u-joint on the link is just going to turn if you try to loosen it. There are flats on the shaft of it near the rubber boot to counterhold it that take a 16mm open-end wrench, but your usual open-end is gonna be WAY too thick. Ways to overcome the thickness issue - grind down a wrench to fit (downside- not a good thing in my book since you just destroyed a wrench), buy a Craftsman Pro wrench - it's thin enough (downside - cost) or get a $5 Harbor Freight set of open end wrenches - made in India - that are so cheap they come from India thin enough to fit this perfectly. That's the way I went - but I knew this would be a problem before even starting (Neil warned me about this..) For $5 - no fuss, no muss and no destroying GOOD tools. 2. The two bolts on the bottom of the strut to the bearing hub have fooking RED Loctite on them from the factory. You are not going to remove these by hand. This is your opportunity to buy an air-impact wrench, impact sockets (these are 18mm) and a nice air-compressor. Think of these as payback for the savings in labor by DIY.. This was not anticipated by me - but I already had the air compressor (an old beer compressor.. I gotta really replace it..) and I bought a new air-impact 'cause my old one wore out about 20 years ago and got tossed. I have multiple sets of metric impacts - left over from a job a long time ago - SnapOn even. One of these took about an hour to get out, even with the impact wrench. The top bolt/bushing that goes through the bracket on the strut and the hub casting may be rusted into the casting on the hub. LOTS of penetrating oil and a very strong arm (the way it was on - I couldn't use the air-impact on it) will eventually break it free. Mebbe. These two bolts on one side that took about an hour each to get off. The other side came right off - 'cause it had been apart once before. No fun. If I had it on a lift and an oxy-acetylene torch handy - heat would have made these lots easier to get off, especially the red-loctited bolts. 3. The top nut holding the top spring plate/bearing assembly to the strut shaft is a 21mm (may be a 22mm on some) nyloc - recessed down in the bearing assembly. The shaft has an internal hex (Allen) to use for counterholding. This is again where the air-impact is worth every penny you pay. To do this - BMW wants you to use a special tool. You can hack your own tool with a thinwall deep 1/2" drive 21 or 22mm socket, by grinding flats on the top circumference of it, then using a 3/8" allen driver inside it and use the flats to hold the nut. Or - you could go to autozone and buy their O2 sensor socket if it's a 22mm, then grind the outside down to fit in the recess (the top of their socket is open, and it has the flats on it already.) This won't work on the 21mm nut. Or - just use a sparkplug socket and the air-impact-wrench. Using that - the nut came RIGHT off. Brapppp...Bzzzz... wheeee.. off. I then repacked the bearing on the top plate (I used Wurth-3000, a really good sticky grease) and reassembled everything on the new strut. I reused the old nut since the new one that came with the new strut was a 22mm and I didn't have a 22mm socket with thin enough walls to get into the recess... I did use blue-loctite on it for reinstallation and "brapppp'd" it back on with the impact set to medium strength (probably about 60ft/lbs.) I used BLUE loctite (medium strength) on ALL nuts and bolts. Having front end parts fall off is not something I want to experience. I used a small smear of grease on the stud part of the one problem stud/bolt where it went through the casting so it wouldn't rust in place again. I also reversed the direction of it so if it did - I could get an air-impact on it to loosen it up. Time to do two struts - a bit over 5 hours, would have been 3 hours if it wasn't for the two bolts that were a PITA. Could probably do it in even less than 3 hours now that I know how. The results - well my old struts weren't completely shot.. both had a bit of gas still in them. One was noticeably weaker than the other since the former owner had ONE replaced under a CPO warranty (a real NO-NO in my book.. since they won't be balanced..) The new ones are nice. Small bumps are now a non-teeth shaking event and cornering is nice and predictable. I like them. They are better than what I took out, and did what I wanted - which was to remove the harsh ride the car used to have, and make the shake a convertible always has less of an issue. The car actually feels like it is moving together now when I hit a bump - not like two halves with a spring in the middle (cowl shake in a convertible.) FWIW - the two weakest components (a shock and a strut) were in opposite corners, so that probably added to the hinged effect. I'll try to remember to bring you up to date after I use them for a week.. Total cost for all 4 - less than $300 delivered. Oh - the struts were made in Spain. Next - redo the interior leather.. have to save up a bit for that one. _______D_o_n__________S_p_r_i_n_g__L_a_k_e__H_t_s____________©1946________ Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ - http://www.njsbmwr.org/ '98 M3c/5, '03 525iT, '87 K75S