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#1. Rogue Adjustable Control Arms - from geoff atkinson
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Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 22:49:33 -0400 From: "geoff atkinson" <pskalc@hotmail.com> Subject: Rogue Adjustable Control Arms Hi all, I'm posting to see if anyone can help me out with these Rogue Engineering Adjustable Rear Control Arms. I got mine "used" from a friend when he got rid of his M3... I bought them to kind of help him out. ( I wasn't going to get adjustable arms otherwise) Anyway, when I got them, one was absolutely brand new, uninstalled and the other was used. Shortly after installing them, one of the inner bushing worked its way out. I called Rogue and they informed me that they were "unserviceable" so I had to buy a new one. (ie. the bushings are impossible to replace). I ordered and received one new arm Now, I'm all set, right? Not so much... I had the car up on my lift tonight for some other servicing and, in my check procedure, I noticed that the left inner bushing is failing. This is less than 8k total miles, since the initial installation. Question time: 1) Has anyone else experienced this? Could I be the only one? 2) Does anyone know of a bushing that is "off the shelf" that will fit? I'm perfectly capable of pressing the appropriate bushing into place. 3) Any upgrades out there for this? Or... maybe I'll just go ahead and design a spherical bearing replacement. (I would prefer something more forgiving, though, since it's a street/track car) Thanks for any ideas, or discussion. -Geoff Atkinson '95 M3 '89 LSB/Inka 2.3 M3
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#2. Dire Bentley warning against bleeding brakes - from Michael, Dave
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 08:51:12 -0400 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: Dire Bentley warning against bleeding brakes I was re-reading my Bentley Manual on brake bleeding yesterday and once again came upon the passage with dire warning against either pressure bleeding or pedal bleeding cars that are equipped with traction control. The general list explanation of the reason for this is that if air gets into the ASK controller, there is no way to get it without the Modic. BUT - this has me confused, since there is no such warning for cars equipped with JUST ABS. My impression has always been that ASC is merely ABS with better software, in which case the warning would also apply to ABS equipped vehicles. I know bazillions of you guys have bled the brakes on your ASC equipped vehicles with no consequence, as have I. But given my recent posts on soft pedal when hot ( which I got after installing new calipers and brake lines), I am trying to look at all sides of the issue. SO - does anyone know what the hardware differences between ABS and ASC cars are, and what specific damage is the Bentley worried about (other than air in the controller?)? Anyway TIA Dave 98 M3/2 85k 90 200 QA 208k
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 06:42:56 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Some data points. Many Dodge trucks have brake problems. Warp rotors on a regular basis. I have friends that have owned a Durango and 3 different Dakotas. All have had these issues. One of my friends towed a 5th wheel with his Dakota. He had a tranny fail within the 1st year. Some Ford vehicles (Explorer and older Broncos) have brake problems. Better check out repair histories. Unless you can afford aluminum trailers, you'll be towing 5-6K with an open trailer and probably 1K more with an enclosed trailer. Maybe more than that, depending on how much stuff you take with you. You also need to consider the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can handle. My 18', open, steel trailer weighs just under 2K. I've added a large aluminum box and steel tire rack to the front. With all the tools, junk, fuel and spare wheels/tires, I've added 300-400lbs to the front of the trailer. That translates to more tongue weight. I haven't measured it accurately, but I'm sure it's at least 700lbs and probably more. Jay > Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 18:20:50 -0400 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... > > Dear Group, > > I am looking to buy a tow vehicle. The key here is that I want to spend as > little as possible. I was looking at many of the SUV's (1995-1998), and was > very surprised at the low towing capacity of most of these vehicles. For > example, the Dodge Durango. It has a 5.2L V8, built on a true truck frame, > and from the Edmunds site can only tow 3200lbs. I am currently looking at > 1995-1998 Ford F-250's. Initially I will probably buy a used open trailer, > but I do intend on moving up to an enclosed version. A friend suggested > that I want at least 9000lbs in towing capacity. Any ideas, or suggestions > on other vehicles that I should be considering? If anyone has a lead on a > vehicle, please contact me privately. > > Thanks for the input! > Mo
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#4. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from marco
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 07:46:49 -0700 From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... For the enclosed also consider the considerable increase in drag. I can tow my open trailer all day with my 5.3L avalanche. The one time I hooked it up to a enclosed trailer it was straining and gas mileage went way down. IMHO if you're really going to get an enclosed get a diesel. You're towing weights for an enclosed will be significantly higher. It's amazing how stuff you can con yourself into taking to the track when you have space to put it in ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: Jay W. Hudson [mailto:jwhud@budget.net] Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 6:43 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 06:42:56 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Some data points. Many Dodge trucks have brake problems. Warp rotors on a regular basis. I have friends that have owned a Durango and 3 different Dakotas. All have had these issues. One of my friends towed a 5th wheel with his Dakota. He had a tranny fail within the 1st year. Some Ford vehicles (Explorer and older Broncos) have brake problems. Better check out repair histories. Unless you can afford aluminum trailers, you'll be towing 5-6K with an open trailer and probably 1K more with an enclosed trailer. Maybe more than that, depending on how much stuff you take with you. You also need to consider the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can handle. My 18', open, steel trailer weighs just under 2K. I've added a large aluminum box and steel tire rack to the front. With all the tools, junk, fuel and spare wheels/tires, I've added 300-400lbs to the front of the trailer. That translates to more tongue weight. I haven't measured it accurately, but I'm sure it's at least 700lbs and probably more. Jay > Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 18:20:50 -0400 > From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> > Subject: Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... > > Dear Group, > > I am looking to buy a tow vehicle. The key here is that I want to spend as > little as possible. I was looking at many of the SUV's (1995-1998), and was > very surprised at the low towing capacity of most of these vehicles. For > example, the Dodge Durango. It has a 5.2L V8, built on a true truck frame, > and from the Edmunds site can only tow 3200lbs. I am currently looking at > 1995-1998 Ford F-250's. Initially I will probably buy a used open trailer, > but I do intend on moving up to an enclosed version. A friend suggested > that I want at least 9000lbs in towing capacity. Any ideas, or suggestions > on other vehicles that I should be considering? If anyone has a lead on a > vehicle, please contact me privately. > > Thanks for the input! > Mo ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 11:31:42 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... This is from my personal experience.... I started towing a 20 ft steel open trailer with a 3,000lb 325 on it with a 5.9 Jeep Grand Cherokee (5,000lb tow rating). The total weight with 2 sets of tires and all the sh*t that accompanies a race/driver school weekend tipped the scales at 5,900lbs. (checked on a cert truck scale) I towed with this set-up for over 2 years and it worked, but it was a definite strain on the vehicle. The bushings on the suspension would wear out within 10,000 miles of towing and about 5,000 miles of regular driving. Surprisingly, my mileage was about the same towing or not (11MPG). I then moved up to an aluminum open trailer and my overall weight dropped to 4,800lbs (checked on a cert truck scale) and there was a noticable difference in towing. The truck didn't strain as much, much fewer downshifts, temps ran cooler, and the bushings lasted approx 15,000 miles of towing and 5,000 miles of driving. Mileage stayed the same. My current set-up is a diesel Excursion. There is no comparison between the two. I get 17-18 mpg towing at speeds greater than 65MPH. I can drive anywhere in the Northeast with the cruise set and it almost never downshifts (the Jeep would downshift over every hill) and I get close to 20MPG with mixed daily driving. I used a weight distributing hitch on both vehicles, I would NOT tow without it on the Jeep, Don't even think about it, I was able to drive 65mph with the Jeep and trailer with the weight dist. hitch, tried it once for a short trip without it, and I can see why people hate towing and they have white knuckles the whole time. With the Excursion, it doesn't make much of a difference, but it does feel a little more stable when you pass or get passed by big-rigs. All of the above weights are for the trailer only, the tow vehicle had a 50 lb tool box, one pop-up tent, medium size cooler with drinks/ice and my cloths/race gear for the weekend, my Dad (pit crew) plus my fat a**. Hope this helps, and feel free to ask me any questions. -Chris At 05:22 PM 7/21/2005 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 18:20:50 -0400 >From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> >Subject: Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... > >Dear Group, > > I am looking to buy a tow vehicle. The key here is that I > want to spend as >little as possible. I was looking at many of the SUV's (1995-1998), and was >very surprised at the low towing capacity of most of these vehicles. For >example, the Dodge Durango. It has a 5.2L V8, built on a true truck frame, >and from the Edmunds site can only tow 3200lbs. I am currently looking at >1995-1998 Ford F-250's. Initially I will probably buy a used open trailer, >but I do intend on moving up to an enclosed version. A friend suggested >that I want at least 9000lbs in towing capacity. Any ideas, or suggestions >on other vehicles that I should be considering? If anyone has a lead on a >vehicle, please contact me privately. > >Thanks for the input! >Mo > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >*************************************************
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 08:27:12 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Re: > > I am looking to buy a tow vehicle. The key here is that I >want to spend as >little as possible. I was looking at many of the SUV's (1995-1998), and was >very surprised at the low towing capacity of most of these vehicles. For >example, the Dodge Durango. It has a 5.2L V8, built on a true truck frame, >and from the Edmunds site can only tow 3200lbs. I am currently looking at >1995-1998 Ford F-250's. Initially I will probably buy a used open trailer, >but I do intend on moving up to an enclosed version. A friend suggested >that I want at least 9000lbs in towing capacity. Any ideas, or suggestions >on other vehicles that I should be considering? If anyone has a lead on a >vehicle, please contact me privately. My father-in-law has a SuperCab '97 F-250 (the so-called "Light Duty F-250", before the reign of the HD version) with the standard bed and I think it's a great truck. 5.4L, big tranny, huge pumpkin, tow package, etc. I use it to tow my M3 + steel tilt-bed trailer (around 5,000lb total) + a full load in the bed very nicely. I think it's rated for 8,250 lbs. Only problem has been a couple of ignition coils that went bad. Passed 100,000 miles a short while ago. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from Walter J
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 14:00:01 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Jay W. Hudson wrote: > >You also need to consider the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can >handle. My 18', open, steel trailer weighs just under 2K. I've added a >large aluminum box and steel tire rack to the front. With all the tools, >junk, fuel and spare wheels/tires, I've added 300-400lbs to the front of the >trailer. That translates to more tongue weight. I haven't measured it >accurately, but I'm sure it's at least 700lbs and probably more. > > This is a major consideration. Mo, you know my trailer... 20' steel with tire bar and toolbox. Figure that with tools, ramps, jacks and fuel jugs, 8 tires and wheels... cooler full of beer/ice... and its more like 900lbs. The bed of the truck usually already has stuff in it that won't fit in the toolbox. In addition, a lot of trailers tow better with a lot of tongue weight... I can make it lighter at the hitch by backing the car up a little but it makes it unstable to pull at 80mph. My Tundra is a 3/4 ton V8 with a 128" wheelbase. It does just fine but I really would not want anything less - not even a little. I can feel it working going up thru the mountains and it goes from 18mpg to 8mpg when towing. I cannot imagine how those guys who show up dragging a car with a 6 cyl SUV can stand it (and I don't want to be the poor sap who buys one of those off lease :) *Note* Dual fuel tanks are a bonus... I need to stop every 220 miles. -- Walter
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from Scott McClung
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 11:01:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... I also started towing with a mid-sized Dodge platform, in my case it was a '94 Durango with the 5.2L V8 and it was rated to tow 7400lbs. What a crock that rating was, I fried the trans the first time up and over the hill to Reno to HAN. I was towing a 1400lb trailer with a 3800lb car, 2 people and some gear, so all that was easily 1Klbs lower than the rated capacity. I had to leave the truck in Reno at the dealer for a trans rebuild and rent a car to drive home for a few days, then drive all the way back to get the truck and pick up my trailer. What a serious PITA that was. I sold it shortly there-after of course.... And moved on to a '94 Suburban K1500, rated to tow 6500lbs. That thing towed so much better it was amazing - I think the longer wheelbase and mostly the added weight and solid chassis of the suburban were the keys there. Somewhere along the way I sold the show / drag race car and started towing a '89 Camaro and eventually a '91 Corvette to track days, so the load lighted up by ~500lbs or so. Next tow vehicle was another K1500 Sub, this time a 2001. Much better at towing - especially the brakes, much better stopping distances than before and less likely to fade. And yes, I do have trailer brakes too. The burb was rated at 8000lbs I think Current tow vehicle is a Nissan Armada. That thing simply rocks as a tow rig, with a nice 5-speed trans with low 1st gear and 385lb-ft of V8 grunt, you hardly notice the trailer back there. Rated to tow ~9K lbs. I think it would tow an enclosed set-up well. Nice thing is this vehicle also gets duty as our family road trip rig, plus great for camping and ski trips, and is my current business vehicle for the 1-2 times a month I need to haul around 4 people all day. I have thought about getting a cheap 3/4t pick-up for towing and hauling duty, but every time I do the math it works out cheaper and better to do it all with one vehicle. Food for thought there, depending on your other vehicle needs. Scott '02 330i '04 Armada '03 Mazda Protege5 (wife's car) '91 Corvette road race car '04 Z06 - FOR SALE, $39,900 - only 6K miles!!! Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> wrote: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 11:31:42 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... This is from my personal experience.... I started towing a 20 ft steel open trailer with a 3,000lb 325 on it with a 5.9 Jeep Grand Cherokee (5,000lb tow rating). The total weight with 2 sets of tires and all the sh*t that accompanies a race/driver school weekend tipped the scales at 5,900lbs. (checked on a cert truck scale) I towed with this set-up for over 2 years and it worked, but it was a definite strain on the vehicle. The bushings on the suspension would wear out within 10,000 miles of towing and about 5,000 miles of regular driving. Surprisingly, my mileage was about the same towing or not (11MPG). I then moved up to an aluminum open trailer and my overall weight dropped to 4,800lbs (checked on a cert truck scale) and there was a noticable difference in towing. The truck didn't strain as much, much fewer downshifts, temps ran cooler, and the bushings lasted approx 15,000 miles of towing and 5,000 miles of driving. Mileage stayed the same. My current set-up is a diesel Excursion. There is no comparison between the two. I get 17-18 mpg towing at speeds greater than 65MPH. I can drive anywhere in the Northeast with the cruise set and it almost never downshifts (the Jeep would downshift over every hill) and I get close to 20MPG with mixed daily driving. I used a weight distributing hitch on both vehicles, I would NOT tow without it on the Jeep, Don't even think about it, I was able to drive 65mph with the Jeep and trailer with the weight dist. hitch, tried it once for a short trip without it, and I can see why people hate towing and they have white knuckles the whole time. With the Excursion, it doesn't make much of a difference, but it does feel a little more stable when you pass or get passed by big-rigs. All of the above weights are for the trailer only, the tow vehicle had a 50 lb tool box, one pop-up tent, medium size cooler with drinks/ice and my cloths/race gear for the weekend, my Dad (pit crew) plus my fat a**. Hope this helps, and feel free to ask me any questions. -Chris At 05:22 PM 7/21/2005 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 18:20:50 -0400 >From: Mo Karamat >Subject: Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... > >Dear Group, > > I am looking to buy a tow vehicle. The key here is that I > want to spend as >little as possible. I was looking at many of the SUV's (1995-1998), and was >very surprised at the low towing capacity of most of these vehicles. For >example, the Dodge Durango. It has a 5.2L V8, built on a true truck frame, >and from the Edmunds site can only tow 3200lbs. I am currently looking at >1995-1998 Ford F-250's. Initially I will probably buy a used open trailer, >but I do intend on moving up to an enclosed version. A friend suggested >that I want at least 9000lbs in towing capacity. Any ideas, or suggestions >on other vehicles that I should be considering? If anyone has a lead on a >vehicle, please contact me privately. > >Thanks for the input! >Mo > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from Scott McClung
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 11:08:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Yeah, but admit it - you have to pee in 220 miles anyway :-) Scott Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> wrote: Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 14:00:01 -0400 From: Walter J Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Jay W. Hudson wrote: > >You also need to consider the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can >handle. My 18', open, steel trailer weighs just under 2K. I've added a >large aluminum box and steel tire rack to the front. With all the tools, >junk, fuel and spare wheels/tires, I've added 300-400lbs to the front of the >trailer. That translates to more tongue weight. I haven't measured it >accurately, but I'm sure it's at least 700lbs and probably more. > > This is a major consideration. Mo, you know my trailer... 20' steel with tire bar and toolbox. Figure that with tools, ramps, jacks and fuel jugs, 8 tires and wheels... cooler full of beer/ice... and its more like 900lbs. The bed of the truck usually already has stuff in it that won't fit in the toolbox. In addition, a lot of trailers tow better with a lot of tongue weight... I can make it lighter at the hitch by backing the car up a little but it makes it unstable to pull at 80mph. My Tundra is a 3/4 ton V8 with a 128" wheelbase. It does just fine but I really would not want anything less - not even a little. I can feel it working going up thru the mountains and it goes from 18mpg to 8mpg when towing. I cannot imagine how those guys who show up dragging a car with a 6 cyl SUV can stand it (and I don't want to be the poor sap who buys one of those off lease :) *Note* Dual fuel tanks are a bonus... I need to stop every 220 miles. -- Walter ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Trailer hitches? - from Scott Spangenberg
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 11:22:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: Trailer hitches? Looking under the rear of my M3 it looks like it would be very difficult to put a trailer hitch on the car. I have seen people who have them though. Is it something I can do myself? Who has them available for the E36 M3? I have a tire trailer that I would like to start using with the car. -Scott Spangenberg -95 Avus M3, Track and Summer car -98 Neon ACR, Autox and Winter car -88 Mustang, CP Autox car (2006, maybe!) -05 F150, Girlfriend's & parts go-getter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... - from Walter J
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Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 14:23:52 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... Scott McClung wrote: >Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2005 11:08:51 -0700 (PDT) >From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cheap Tow Vehicle Suggestions... > >Yeah, but admit it - you have to pee in 220 miles anyway :-) > >Scott > > > No secret there... but I can fine a place to pee over just about any guardrail on any highway - Its not always so easy to find gas with an easy on/off exit ramp. :-) I almost had to siphon gas out of the car on one occasion where I got to daydreaming and forgot to stop at my usual place coming home from Summit Point. -- Walter