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#1. Re: [E36M3] No clock, no windshield wiper when squirting - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 07:15:45 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] No clock, no windshield wiper when squirting At 11:06 AM 7/23/2005, Brad Sunshine wrote: >I am new to the list and find the discussions >entertaining and somewhat educational :~). I am a new >owner of a 97 sedan with the 18 button computer. The >other day the clock in the right hand smaller display >was no longer visible. I haven't read the manual yet >to see if I accidently turned it off, but don't see >how I could have. Any insight? Most likely the bulb that provides backlight (if you look closely at the clock in a darkened garage/etc you should still be able to see the clock.) Pull the OBC out, and there should be a bayonet-style bulb holder by the clock. Remove it, replace the bulb (any good auto parts store). >2nd issue, when I pull on the stalk to spray the >washer fluid the wipers do not turn on automatically. >The wipers do work fine in all the different >positions. Again, I haven't started trouble shooting, >but figured some of you may have a clue. Hmm, no idea on this one, although it will take a second or so of squirting before the wipers start, so make sure you're squirting longer enough? :-) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
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#2. Re: Rear floor tearing out - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 10:26:08 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Rear floor tearing out At 01:46 AM 7/24/2005, you wrote: >As my 95 M3 ages I'm more concerned about preventive maintenance I should do >since I plan on keeping the car for a while. On the other hand reports of >the rear floor tearing apart keep coming in for cars over 100k miles. A >couple questions: > >I believe BMW reinforced the rear subframe mount area after a certain year. >Can anyone tell me what year/model E36s have the reinforced rear floor? Just to add more confusion.. According to Mike Miller (Roundel tech guy) the reinforcement started in '98 with plates that are the same as what Turner sells. This was according to an M3 forum discussion I was reading last night.. The claim was made that this could be "proven" buy looking at realoem.com (or the ETK) - but in checking each of these I couldn't prove anything (they seemed to think it appears after a certain date..) The reinforcements they were talking about are 10 & 11 on: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=41_0943&hg=41&fg=25> What's interesting is both realoem.com and the ETK show two part numbers for each part - it appears they had one design and then changed it to a different design, but looking on the ETK (and searching on PN) - shows all of these used for any year M3, so there isn't any year cutover for the different numbers. >For those of you who have used the Turner rear floor reinforcement kit >(especially the racers out there), is that a cure-all? Before I spend >thousands on suspensions and possibly this reinforcement kit (a huge job >from what I understand - the whole rear has to come off) I want to have >reasonable confidence that it'll last. Once the rear floor tears out it's >usually cost-prohibitive to repair. Be real interested to hear.. since I'm really confused at this point. >Thanks a lot for all your input. >Alan >95 M3 - 95k Best, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ====================================================================
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#3. Auto shipping - any recommendations? - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 12:31:46 -0400 From: Bob Lenarcik <bob@lenarcik.net> Subject: Auto shipping - any recommendations? I just moved from the SF Bay Area to Eastern PA and I need to get my 97 M3 shipped east. I've gotten some quotes from shippers web sites ranging from around $850 to $1400 on the high end. Most are coming in over $1200. I am not sure what to expect to pay, but I know I can drive the car myself and it will cost less than $1200 for gas, food and hotels. Does anyone have a recommendation for a company to use? Any companies to avoid? Any other advice on what to look for? Thanks in advance. - Bob Lenarcik
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Fan clutches and where does the coolant exit - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 12:31:23 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fan clutches and where does the coolant exit > My question is, when a M3 boils over, where does the coolant exit? I seem to be a master at having my car overheat so I'll take a stab at this. I have had the following: Overheating because of a blown headgasket, it spewed out from the reservoir cap on the cooldown lap at Road America. Overheating because of a failed thermostat, the ~1/2" diameter hose that is routed along the top of the radiator blew off the coolant reservoir and sprayed coolant everywhere. The hose wrapped around the fan and they came to a mutually self destructive end. Overheating because of a pinhole leak in the radiator (caused by a self destructing fan above) again caused the small hose to blow off the reservoir destroying yet another fan. All of these happened on track causing an almost total loss of traction when the coolant got on the tires. Makes for interesting handling, let's say. >I had > some spray from the back of the expansion tank, about half way down, near > the fan shroud. Does that sound normal for a boilover exit location or did > my expansion tank split? I would guess that you need a new expansion tank if that is in fact where the leak came from. I think that the reservoir cap is the intended pressure relief valve. Did you physically see it spraying out from there? When I was trying to find the leak that turned out to be the radiator leak, I was convinced it was coming from the reservoir. It wasn't until I let everything dry overnight that I noticed some wetness on the radiator cooling fins after the car had been idling for about 40 minutes. Prior to that it just looked like it was steaming from somewhere around the reservoir. > I tested the viscous fan clutch on my M3 last week and I was able to stop > it pretty easily with a rolled up newspaper when the car was hot. This is normal behavior AFAIK for a correctly functioning fan clutch. I spent part of yesterday installing a Zionsville Autosport Aluminum fan with Aluminum reservoir and Spal electric puller fan (Bling bling) so that hopefully I can be done with overheating issues at the track. I'll see in a couple of weeks at Mid-Ohio. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Auto shipping - any recommendations? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 10:36:14 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto shipping - any recommendations? Most moving companies will do it. Inside the van along with household goods. They put you together with someone's move that doesn't completely fill the van. I shipped from NJ to OR in 1992. I think it was around $1K. I used United. No probs. There's a company that specializes in car shipment. Intercity Lines. www.intercitylines.com They are a forum sponsor on Bimmerforums. Give 'em a try. Jay > Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 12:31:46 -0400 > From: Bob Lenarcik <bob@lenarcik.net> > Subject: Auto shipping - any recommendations? > > I just moved from the SF Bay Area to Eastern PA and I need to get my 97 > M3 shipped east. I've gotten some quotes from shippers web sites ranging > from around $850 to $1400 on the high end. Most are coming in over > $1200. I am not sure what to expect to pay, but I know I can drive the > car myself and it will cost less than $1200 for gas, food and hotels. > > Does anyone have a recommendation for a company to use? Any companies to > avoid? Any other advice on what to look for? > > Thanks in advance. > > - Bob Lenarcik
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Auto shipping - any recommendations? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 11:01:26 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto shipping - any recommendations? At 09:39 AM 7/24/2005, Bob Lenarcik wrote: >I just moved from the SF Bay Area to Eastern PA Wha??? Bye Bob. :-) >and I need to get my 97 M3 shipped east. I've gotten some quotes from >shippers web sites ranging from around $850 to $1400 on the high end. Most >are coming in over $1200. I am not sure what to expect to pay, I would say that ~$1200 is about right - I had the M3 shipped from NY to CA in '98 for $1000. Can't recall the company though, sorry. Take care, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP - originally Bob's car :-)
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Fan clutches and where does the coolant exit - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:04:06 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fan clutches and where does the coolant exit >All of these happened on track causing an almost total loss of >traction when the coolant got on the tires. Makes for interesting >handling, let's say. So do you still run coolant in the system for track days? That would sure make for a good argument for the ole water/water wetter mix. >I spent part of yesterday installing a Zionsville Autosport Aluminum >fan with Aluminum reservoir and Spal electric puller fan (Bling bling) >so that hopefully I can be done with overheating issues at the track. >I'll see in a couple of weeks at Mid-Ohio. Cool! I'm going to try to make it to that event, see you there hopefully. Carlos 98 M3 in the body shop gettin' the rear shock tower fixed :-) 88 325is subin' as the daily driver
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#8. Re: Subframe - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 09:41:30 -0400 From: Chip Mitchell <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Subframe Should you be able to see these mounts, as if they were welded in later? The underside of my car (early '95 production) looks pretty much like other E36's I've seen in the area of the subframe mounts. Based on the photos that Turner has posted of the additional mounts, it seems like I should be able to see them. Chip > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 22:32:44 -0700 > From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> > Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Rear floor tearing out > > > > If it's an M3 it has the stronger rear subframe mounts.
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#9. re: Rear Floor Tearing Out - from Alan Leung
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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:47:22 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: re: Rear Floor Tearing Out I read somewhere before that all E36 M3s have the stronger rear floor mounts but in the latest issue of Roundel Tech Talk a 97 M3 apparently had it's rear floor torn out at 130k miles. That made me rethink how true the above assumption is. Don also mentioned other sources that believe that the reinforcement started only from 98 onward. Does anyone have the straight dope? About the FRONT subframe (jez there is always something ;-| ) does anyone know when the stronger subframe cut into the 95 model year? My car is a June build. Alan 95 M3 >Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2005 22:32:44 -0700 >From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> >Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Rear floor tearing out If it's an M3 it has the stronger rear subframe mounts. But still check them if the car is heavily tracked. Repair in San Francisco runs $750 to $1500 depending on how bad the damage is. But that is at a shop that has done probably dozens of those repairs. It used to be prohibitive, and may still be costly if a shop has no experience doing the repair. If it's a regular E36 and it's tracked or just even being driven hard on the street it's only a matter of time until it happens. Sounds like banging coming from the rear. A friend's street E36 325is just had it done due to severe damage (I told him to take it in months before he finally did) and it ran him about $1500. If by now you haven't replace the rear toe bushings, do it. Also you may want to just proactively replace all the rear subframe bushings, while those are being replaced you can do a good inspection of the rear subframe bushing area. Early 95 M3s had an earlier design on the front subframe. I would check that and either use the turner kit or buy a new subframe that comes with reinforcements from the factory. Otherwise you're motor mounts will pull out of the subframe eventually. Marco
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Fan clutches and where does the coolant exit - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 08:51:20 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fan clutches and where does the coolant exit > So do you still run coolant in the system for track days? That would sure > make for a good > argument for the ole water/water wetter mix. Yes, I was going to switch to distilled water when I put this new radiator in but the lifetime warranty only applies if you use BMW coolant. > Cool! I'm going to try to make it to that event, see you there hopefully. Sounds like a plan. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL