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#1. Re: [E36M3] Diff & Subframe Bushings - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:10:47 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff & Subframe Bushings > 1] Is there any hardware that I should be concerned about replacing or > having on hand before beginning? (ie - Will I break any of the subframe > bolts?) You will need to rent the subframe bushing removal tool from http://www.koalamotorsport.com/ or somehow obtain the tool from somewhere else. You don't need a tool to install the new bushings. I used a scissor type transmission jack to support the subframe/rear suspension assembly while I was replacing the bushings. It's big and very heavy, there is no way to do this by hand unless you completely disassemble the rear suspension/differential, even then you are going to be bench pressing lots of weight with one hand while trying to insert bolts with the other. I didn't break any bolts, the front two are studs which come down from the frame, the rear ones are bolts. I removed the exhaust from the manifolds back, the driveshaft and then dropped the subframe as one piece. I haven't seen any urethane diff mounts. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#2. WTB, Used Driver's door E36 Coupe - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:14:00 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: WTB, Used Driver's door E36 Coupe Anyone know of a used left side door fron an E36 Coupe for sale, preferably in Arctic Silver? Chicago area helps too. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#3. RE: [E36M3] No Backup Lights - from Bob Vaughn
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 16:22:53 -0700 From: "Bob Vaughn" <bob_vaughn@telestream.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] No Backup Lights Lee, Zack, Alan... Thanks for the response. I crawled under the car and easily found and removed the switch. It tests fine for continuity when out of the tranny. With it out of the tranny, when I plugged it back into the wires and pressed the button manually, the backup lights come on. So I know I have power to the switch and the switch works. When I put it back into the tranny it and put the shifter in reverse the lights still don't come on. So either the switch is partially worn out and it doesn't have enough "throw" to engage, or there is something inside the tranny that isn't engaging it. The switch is probably cheap enough that I'll put one of those in to see if it fixes it... Otherwise I think I have bigger problems. -- thx, Bob '95 M3 > From: Lee Piccione [mailto:lepiccione@yahoo.com] > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 12:59 PM > To: Bob Vaughn > Subject: Re: [E36M3] No Backup Lights > > switch is on the right side of the tranny, obviously you get to it > from under the car. easy to change... > lee > > --- Bob Vaughn <bob.vaughn@telestream.net> wrote: > > > Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:28:56 -0700 > > From: "Bob Vaughn" <bob.vaughn@telestream.net> > > Subject: No Backup Lights > > > > > > Hi - > > Both my backup lights went out at the same time. > > The fuse is okay and > > both bulbs are okay. There's no voltage at light sockets when in > > reverse. No warnings or checks on the OBC show up. > > Where's the next > > place to check? How do you get to the switch that completes the > > circuit?
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#4. Re: [E36M3] No Backup Lights - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 16:57:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <thenobot@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] No Backup Lights Bob, In that case, you could snake the reverse light switch and wires up into the cabin where the e-brake lines come in. It should be a simple mod to put the reverse light switch behind the e-brake handle button. When you put it in reverse, just keep your thumb on the button and you're good to go! (just kidding ;-) -- I suspect a new switch will work properly.) -zs ----- Original Message ---- From: Bob Vaughn <bob_vaughn@telestream.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tue Jul 26 16:29:17 2005 Subject: RE: [E36M3] No Backup Lights Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 16:22:53 -0700 From: "Bob Vaughn" <bob_vaughn@telestream.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] No Backup Lights Lee, Zack, Alan... Thanks for the response. I crawled under the car and easily found and removed the switch. It tests fine for continuity when out of the tranny. With it out of the tranny, when I plugged it back into the wires and pressed the button manually, the backup lights come on. So I know I have power to the switch and the switch works. When I put it back into the tranny it and put the shifter in reverse the lights still don't come on. So either the switch is partially worn out and it doesn't have enough "throw" to engage, or there is something inside the tranny that isn't engaging it. The switch is probably cheap enough that I'll put one of those in to see if it fixes it... Otherwise I think I have bigger problems. -- thx, Bob '95 M3 > From: Lee Piccione [mailto:lepiccione@yahoo.com] > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 12:59 PM > To: Bob Vaughn > Subject: Re: [E36M3] No Backup Lights > > switch is on the right side of the tranny, obviously you get to it > from under the car. easy to change... > lee > > --- Bob Vaughn <bob.vaughn@telestream.net> wrote: > > > Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:28:56 -0700 > > From: "Bob Vaughn" <bob.vaughn@telestream.net> > > Subject: No Backup Lights > > > > > > Hi - > > Both my backup lights went out at the same time. > > The fuse is okay and > > both bulbs are okay. There's no voltage at light sockets when in > > reverse. No warnings or checks on the OBC show up. > > Where's the next > > place to check? How do you get to the switch that completes the > > circuit? ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Diff & Subframe Bushings - from Alan Leung
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 18:58:27 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: Diff & Subframe Bushings List sponsors Turner and BW have stronger diff mounts. BW uses aluminium for all 3 and Turner uses delrin for the one that runs front to back. This particular bushing can crack over time (mine is) and the bolt can potentially shear ... you get the picture. Alan 95 M3 - cracked diff front bushing > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:49:57 -0400 > From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> > Subject: Diff & Subframe Bushings > > Group, > > I have the PowerFlex rear subframe bushings ready to go on the car. I > have > a few questions before I proceed with this R&R. > > 1] Is there any hardware that I should be concerned about replacing or > having on hand before beginning? (ie - Will I break any of the subframe > bolts?) > > 2] I notice that there are 3 bushings that support the diff in the > subframe. > Is there a poly version of these available or is it a non-issue? > > Thanks for the insight (as always), > > Jeremy Conners > > 97 M3 >
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#6. Car Transport Recommendations - from Ron & Brenya B.
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 20:17:27 -0500 From: "Ron & Brenya B." <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Car Transport Recommendations Bob, I can't comment about shipping from CA to PA, but I did have two cars shipped from MD to TX, my M3 and a Miata. in November of 2004. The total cost to ship both of them was $1095, and they were carried on the same truck. Rates vary, depending on the season, and this was a special price. I shopped around for shippers using the following website: http://www.movecars.com/ There are open carriers and closed carriers. At first I thought that I wouldn't use anything but a closed carrier, but the prices are very high, and I didn't see the need to spend that much extra money on shipping two cars that are not flawless, nor are they car show winners. There are in excellent condition, nonetheless. A friend in MD used Intercity, which uses closed carriers exclusively, to ship a 911 Turbo from Phoenix to MD. He paid alot of money, and the car arrived in perfect condition. Intercity is used by people who show their autos around the nation, or for people who buy and sell collectible cars. I ended up selecting Nationwide Auto Transport: http://www.nationwideautotrans.com/index.html or http://www.movecars.com/quotes/nationwide.htm The cars arrived in great condition. I did notice some slight marks that were not there when the cars were shipped, but it was something very minor, and I can't prove that it was done by them, or by the guy who was keeping the cars until the transporter arrived. The only problem I had with them was arranging for pickup. They said that they couldn't give me anything better than a three-day window, and they missed the three-day window. It wouldn't have been a problem except for the fact that my friend (in MD) had the cars at his house, and had to drive 75 miles from work to get home to meet them, and ended up making the trip once for a no-show. When they DID pick up the cars, they ended up coming late in the evening (9:30PM), after they said they would be there by 5:00pm. The cars arrived a little earlier than they said they would, which was good. Nationwide uses independent transporters, and they don't move the cars from transporter to transporter to deliver them. They may need to move the car on and off the trailer to get another car delivered, but it will go back on the same trailer, and be delivered by the same people who picked up the car. Overall, I was happy with the service. Hope this helps. Ron Date: Sun, 24 Jul 2005 12:31:46 -0400 From: Bob Lenarcik <bob@lenarcik.net> Subject: Auto shipping - any recommendations? I just moved from the SF Bay Area to Eastern PA and I need to get my 97 M3 shipped east. I've gotten some quotes from shippers web sites ranging from around $850 to $1400 on the high end. Most are coming in over $1200. I am not sure what to expect to pay, but I know I can drive the car myself and it will cost less than $1200 for gas, food and hotels. Does anyone have a recommendation for a company to use? Any companies to avoid? Any other advice on what to look for? Thanks in advance. - Bob Lenarcik
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Auto shipping - any recommendations? - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 22:01:05 -0700 From: Bob Lenarcik <bob@lenarcik.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Auto shipping - any recommendations? It was a pretty quick deal. My wife's company moved her group from Sunnyvale to Union City. Driving 2.5 hours one way from Scotts Valley was not going to happen for her so we decided it was time to take the money and run. We've been contemplating moving out of the Bay Area for a while so we can reduce the stress level in the family. I'm originally from Rochester NY and my wife is from Allentown PA. Her family and friends are in Eastern PA so it became a pretty obvious choice. I was able to convince my company to let me move and still work for them. They even kicked in some relocation money without being asked. Everything fell into place very quickly and before it even sunk in, we sold the house, drove across country and found a new place to buy in less than 2 months. Since May, I've been back to CA 3 times, London with New Zealand next week. My family actually lives in PA - I live out of a suitcase. So much for stress reduction <g>. I think I need to find some track time when the M3 gets out there... - Bob Jim Bassett wrote: > At 09:39 AM 7/24/2005, Bob Lenarcik wrote: > >> I just moved from the SF Bay Area to Eastern PA > > > Wha??? Bye Bob. > > :-) > >> and I need to get my 97 M3 shipped east. I've gotten some quotes from >> shippers web sites ranging from around $850 to $1400 on the high end. >> Most are coming in over $1200. I am not sure what to expect to pay, > > > I would say that ~$1200 is about right - I had the M3 shipped from NY > to CA in '98 for $1000. Can't recall the company though, sorry. > > Take care, > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP - originally Bob's car :-) > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Car Transport Recommendations - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 22:01:19 -0700 From: Bob Lenarcik <bob@lenarcik.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Car Transport Recommendations Ron (and everyone else who replied), Thanks very much for the recommendations. I got quotes from pretty much every suggested shipper and they were all pretty expensive. I ended up going with Dependable Auto Shippers since they were cheapest. They were the first hit when I did a Google search. They've been around for 50 years so I figured you can't last that long by screwing up. The truck is 10 years old, the body is far from perfect and it's been sold to my nephew. It'll go on an open carrier and the cost is $522 without full insurance and $681 with. The next cheapest quote was more than double that. The M3 was quoted at $883 for a fully enclosed trailer and full coverage. I'm going to see how they do on the truck before I send the M3 along. I'm doing a terminal to terminal to save money and they are pretty flexible on drop off dates. I guess it also helps that I don't need them out at any particular time. I'll report back on how it went so everyone will have a recommendation or a warning for future reference. Let's hope it's not a warning... - Bob Ron & Brenya B. wrote: > Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 20:17:27 -0500 > From: "Ron & Brenya B." <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Car Transport Recommendations > > Bob, > > I can't comment about shipping from CA to PA, but I did have two cars > shipped from MD to TX, my M3 and a Miata. in November of 2004. The > total cost to ship both of them was $1095, and they were carried on > the same truck. Rates vary, depending on the season, and this was a > special price. > > I shopped around for shippers using the following website: > > http://www.movecars.com/ > > There are open carriers and closed carriers. At first I thought that > I wouldn't use anything but a closed carrier, but the prices are very > high, and I didn't see the need to spend that much extra money on > shipping two cars that are not flawless, nor are they car show > winners. There are in excellent condition, nonetheless. A friend in > MD used Intercity, which uses closed carriers exclusively, to ship a > 911 Turbo from Phoenix to MD. He paid alot of money, and the car > arrived in perfect condition. Intercity is used by people who show > their autos around the nation, or for people who buy and sell > collectible cars. > edited...
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#9. RE: [E36M3] GT/LTW Fascia Question - from aek@pumpkininc.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 01:12:24 -0400 From: "aek@pumpkininc.com" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] GT/LTW Fascia Question Hi Jeremy. The fender liners use fewer attachments than I suspect they use on a non-LWT/GT M3. There is one screw at the outer corner of each fender that attaches to a Tinnerman clip in the front fascia, IIRC. There is one screw at the inner corner of each fender that attaches to the aluminum + plastic ducting piece that is unique to the LWT (and GT?). The liner invariably tears off here ... On my car, I made some simple strips of 1/2" x 2" x 1/16" aluminum to spread the load over a wider portion of the plastic fender liner. There, instead of the sheet metal screw + Tinnerman clip I use a short M5 bolt, Al plate, lockwasher and Nylock (I know, it's overkill). But as soon as the liner is torn there, it seems to fall off after every weekend. I need new liners (for the umpteenth time). --Andrew I found it tough to believe the ETK in some cases. Specifically with the pork chops as there are other places that show the "regular" non-pork chops and it doesn't give the error message when you click on them. I know the splitter is held in place by the vertical members that extend from the bumper beam, but what do the front of the fender liners attach to? Thanks for your help, Jeremy // -----Original Message----- // From: aek@pumpkininc.com [mailto:aek@pumpkininc.com] // Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 9:23 PM // To: jeremy.conners@comcast.net // Subject: RE: [E36M3] GT/LTW Fascia Question // // No pork chops. // // The splitter is the only major piece used, and it's held via outer and // inner outriggers that extend downwards from the aluminum bumper "insert". // // That wesite that Jim Basset often links to for parts diagrams will // probably // show all the parts -- they are in the ETK CD for US cars. // // --Andrew // // // // Original Message: // ----------------- // From: Jeremy Conners jeremy.conners@comcast.net // Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 16:39:18 -0500 // To: e36m3@bmw-m.net // Subject: [E36M3] GT/LTW Fascia Question // // // Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:36:38 -0400 // From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> // Subject: GT/LTW Fascia Question // // To those with knowledge of the GT/LTW front splitter and area: // // // // I have a '97 M3 that needed the fascia replaced along with the fender // liners, pork-chops, ducting, etc. I was toying with the option of adding // the GT/LTW fascia and splitter. At the time, I just ordered the GT/LTW // splitter and necessary cosmetic parts and the plan was to complete the // retrofit at a later date. Which brings me to my question: // // // // Having never seen the GT/LTW splitter setup up close, can someone tell me // if // the pork-chops (51.71.2.250.641/2) are used behind the splitter or is // there // a different piece that connects the fender liner to the fascia on // GT/LTWs? // I think it's the pork-chops as on the regular M3; however, they're not // listed on the GT/LTW fascia and splitter page in ETK (as they are on the // regular M3 fascia page). // // // // Anyone know or care? // // // // Thanks in advance, // // Jeremy Conners // // 97 M3 // // // // ************************************************* // Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: // // Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com // Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com // Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com // Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com // Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com // Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com // // DIGEST INFORMATION: // http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm // ************************************************* // // // // -------------------------------------------------------------------- // mail2web - Check your email from the web at // http://mail2web.com/ . -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Diff & Subframe Bushings - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 07:52:56 -0700 From: Bob Lenarcik <bob@lenarcik.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Diff & Subframe Bushings Jeremy, I just recently had Powerflex bushings installed in the rear of my 97 M3. While my mechanic had the rear end apart, he noticed cracks from the sway bar link mounting points. It wasn't bad so he was able to weld and reinforce it. The cost was a minor increment over what was already planned so I was lucky. It was just a matter of time before I would have heard the dreaded clunk. If the car has been tracked to any extent, I'd be prepared to carefully check for cracks and the possible repair. It might even make sense to just proactively install the Turner reinforcements. - Bob Jeremy Conners wrote: >Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:49:57 -0400 >From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> >Subject: Diff & Subframe Bushings > >Group, > >I have the PowerFlex rear subframe bushings ready to go on the car. I have >a few questions before I proceed with this R&R. > >1] Is there any hardware that I should be concerned about replacing or >having on hand before beginning? (ie - Will I break any of the subframe >bolts?) > >2] I notice that there are 3 bushings that support the diff in the subframe. >Is there a poly version of these available or is it a non-issue? > >Thanks for the insight (as always), > >Jeremy Conners > >97 M3 > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >