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#1. Re: HIR Bulbs - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 21:51:03 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: HIR Bulbs At 09:39 PM 8/1/2005, you wrote: >Just a follow-up to the Roundel story and recent discussions.who are the >current vendors of the HIR bulbs for the e36? > > >TIA, >Pat Kelly >95 Cosmos The only one I know is Bill Fox - at least of the Toshiba bulbs. There were rumors of other bulbs coming to the US, but nothing surfaced that I've seen. http://www.finemotoring.com/ Say HI to Bill for me.. he's a good guy (and enthusiast.. who else would own an 850?) Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ====================================================================
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#2. Cleaning the MAF - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:37:59 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Cleaning the MAF On my E46M3 I was convinced that the car was down on power and was sure that it was due to the MAF sensor so I bought a used one to replace it. When that one felt like it was doing the same thing, I took someone's advice and sprayed brake cleaner on the MAF to clean it and all was better. Since then I have cleaned it a few more times by doing the same thing - just spraying brake cleaner on it (no wiping or anything). It may not be the best thing to do but so far it has worked fine. I just cleaned/re-oiled my AFE filter over the weekend so I will probably be doing another cleaning job soon. -Wayne
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#3. WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:40:44 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice Was looking for rear camber and in the end I left myself with a snapped rear control arm, as well as what's left of a rust adhered eccentric bolt stuck inside the RR knuckle bushing. The eccentric bolts were obviously extremely over-torqued and rusted, the left came off with lotsa heat and patience, the other gave up with similar attempts and the nut snapped off leaving the bolt rusted inside that bushing. Against my better judgment, I drove the car to work the next day figuring that this broken and rusted bolt isn't going to come out. Well I'm happy to report it didn't come out but it didn't take long to snap the control arm. Handling was poor and was getting progressively worse; sure enough the other side of the control arm where the eccentric head of the bolt was left forced enough stress with the undesirable movement and twisting causing failure. Needless to say I need a new control arm, and need to extract what's left of the bolt/control arm from the knuckle. I've been searching and have learned the control arm upper bolt can be removed by loosening the sway bar and pivoting it out of the way to access two of the rear diff carrier bolts and then hit the 3rd on the front allowing you to move the diff around to facilitate enough room to pull the long inner control arm bolt out. Surprised but not afraid to do it, but what choice do I have, <shrug>. I see that ground control/rogue/turner sell adjustable lower control arms through our list sponsors. I like the design of the turner and greater range of adjustability, but also recognize the GC set-up with what appears to be an arm with a spherical ball joint that replaces the rubber bushing on the diff side of the CA. I also have seen the SPC ones on ebay for $159, but at $100 or more cheaper than the rest, durability is suspect IMO. What is the best cluck for the buck? I do remember some list members recently having problems with the bushings coming loose on some of the aftermarket control arms. I also realize bimmerworld has an oem replacement from lemfoerder for $42, and that is probably my most inexpensive fix since I only need the right one. Reality is however, that I am still on original springs/dampers/bushings (well except RSM,Z3 plates,strutbar) with 92K and that perhaps adjustable control arms at this point would be pointless. I just hate to spend money on parts twice, and one day I will have my dream suspension, just not sure I can afford the time/$$ right now. I am also very paranoid what other bolts I will break in the repair/replace process, as parts blaster and heat only do so much. I am running 17x9 with 255/40, so ease of adjustability would be nice, however with stock height and rolled fenders I don't have any rubbing yet. Advice on work, parts alternatives, and control arm donations appreciated. Thanks, Patrick Goss 97 M3/4
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#4. Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 10:30:02 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice I have the Ground Control LCAs which seem to work just fine. They do allow easy camber adjustments to the point of allowing stupid amounts of camber to be dialed in. They have spherical bushings at both ends. I am currently running -2 degrees of camber in the rear, -3.2 degrees in front with 0 toe front and rear. My car is pretty much a dedicated track car now and the only rubber bushings left in the suspension are the rear upper control arm bushings. Everything else is Ground Control, which makes for a very harsh ride on the street but a very tight suspension on the track. I think that once you get started with spherical bushings, you really need to replace them all because they put a lot of additional stress on any remaining rubber bushings causing them to fail very quickly. I wouldn't recomend anything stiffer than stock replacements for a street driven car. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#5. Car stalling - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 11:51:32 -0700 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> Subject: Car stalling Hi everyone. My car has undergone a recent head gasket replacement, valve job, etc... Ever since the engine was put back together I have been having stalling problems under the following conditions: 1. clutch in 2. coasting and/or braking to a stop 3. *while* turning left. 4. speeds under 30mph. The problem is intermittent and only has occurred under the above conditions. There is no stumbling, etc. before the stall. The revs just drop when the clutch is in and the engine dies. About 6 months ago, I installed a LTW flywheel but it never caused the engine to stall prior to the rebuild. I put *many* miles on the setup with no stalls prior to the rebuild of the engine. We're putting a new idle control valve on the car this week. The engine has no fault codes stored. Does anyone have any ideas for me? It is really a dangerous situation, as the car dies at all of the wrong times (is there ever a right time?) and leaves me without power steering, etc in the middle of a turn through an intersection, etc... Scary! Thanks for any help. Rob 95 M3
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#6. window tint - from Scott McClung
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 13:28:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: window tint I am planning to have the windows tinted on my silver E46 330i sedan soon. I have done several sedans with 20% rear and 50% front which works out pretty good. But this time around I was considering going with 35% all around so it looks a bit more balanced. One downside to this approach is tinting the front windows is illegal in CA and this makes it more obvious the fronts are tinted. Has anyone gone with 35% all around on a sedan and been happy with it? I went that direction on a C5 and it was perfect, so my suspicion is this could be a good way to go for this car too. Any pics of a 35% all around car would help too. Scott
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#7. GGC School at Thunderhill, Aug 20-21 - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 13:34:15 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: GGC School at Thunderhill, Aug 20-21 We still have spaces available for this event and it's not limited to BMWs, so feel free to forward to enthusiast friends. Thunderhill has recently added a metal canopy in the paddock to park under and the building is air-conditioned, so it's a lot more comfortable these days. Looking forward to seeing you there! - Mark Begin forwarded message: From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Date: June 5, 2005 1:52:28 PM PDT To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: [E36M3] GGC School at Thunderhill, Aug 20-21 Reply-To: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Golden Gate Chapter has just opened registration for our annual driving school at Thunderhill Raceway in beautiful Willows, CA. The cost is $399 for club members and $439 for non-members (includes a 1- year BMW CCA membership) and it will take place the weekend of August 20-21. More info can be found at: http://www.ggcbmwcca.org If you've never been to a track school, I *highly* encourage it. The skills you learn there will serve you well on the street. Plus, it's just a TON of fun! All makes are allowed, but BMWs are given priority. However, it has been several years since this has been an issue, so don't hesitate to alert your friends. Most convertibles and targas are not allowed at the Thunderhill School (see the event docs for more info), but they are more than welcome at the Car Control Clinic. Don't hesitate to get in touch with any questions. See you there! - Mark Driving Events Coordinator, GGC BMW CCA ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#8. Re: [E36M3] window tint - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 13:43:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] window tint It's more of a question whether cops will bother you. Also, it's dependent, IMO, on the interior color. If you have a dark interior, a 35% tint will look darker than a tan interior. Chester --- Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> wrote: > I am planning to have the windows tinted on my silver E46 330i sedan soon. I > have done several sedans with 20% rear and 50% front which works out pretty > good. But this time around I was considering going with 35% all around so it > looks a bit more balanced. One downside to this approach is tinting the > front windows is illegal in CA and this makes it more obvious the fronts are > tinted. Has anyone gone with 35% all around on a sedan and been happy with > it? I went that direction on a C5 and it was perfect, so my suspicion is > this could be a good way to go for this car too. Any pics of a 35% all > around car would help too.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] window tint - from Scott McClung
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 13:58:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] window tint Yes, my feeling is cops won't bother me with 35% all around. Mine has a light gray interior. The vette had black, but the tint still wasn't so dark that cops hassled me. Scott Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: It's more of a question whether cops will bother you. Also, it's dependent, IMO, on the interior color. If you have a dark interior, a 35% tint will look darker than a tan interior. Chester --- Scott McClung wrote: > I am planning to have the windows tinted on my silver E46 330i sedan soon. I > have done several sedans with 20% rear and 50% front which works out pretty > good. But this time around I was considering going with 35% all around so it > looks a bit more balanced. One downside to this approach is tinting the > front windows is illegal in CA and this makes it more obvious the fronts are > tinted. Has anyone gone with 35% all around on a sedan and been happy with > it? I went that direction on a C5 and it was perfect, so my suspicion is > this could be a good way to go for this car too. Any pics of a 35% all > around car would help too.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] window tint - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 14:02:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] window tint With a light gray interior, I'd go with the 35%. I remember when my dad went to get his car tinted...he disapproved of me breaking the law with the 35% all around. He said that he was going to stay legit...so 70% all around. His car has a light tan interior and boy...he quickly changed his tune when the shop showed him the 70% tint. HAHA! He ended up with 50% all around, but it was a nice look and helped the anemic AC. Maybe I should tint the Elise windows...limo tint! Damn car always gets finger prints from idiots who have to touch the car when I'm not around. I don't understand what's wrong with people. Gee...it's a physical object..yes, it's real...do you have to touch it? Chester --- Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> wrote: > Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 13:58:15 -0700 (PDT) > From: Scott McClung <smlists@pacbell.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] window tint > > Yes, my feeling is cops won't bother me with 35% all around. Mine has a > light gray interior. The vette had black, but the tint still wasn't so dark > that cops hassled me.