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#1. RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help andadvice - from Jack - Elephant Motorsports
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 00:09:52 -0400 From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help andadvice Jay, Yup, $42 w/inner bushing is right, that's what we sell them for too. The inner bushing alone is about $14. Brand is Lemfoerder so it's not Genuine BMW but I think we've already been down that road. The dealer costs much more in many cases, sometimes justified, sometimes not. Cheers. Jack Money #86 CM M3 Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com -----Original Message----- From: Jay W. Hudson [mailto:jwhud@budget.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 11:19 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help andadvice Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:13:27 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help andadvice I have the GC adjustable LCAs. I likey. I have an OEM with inner bushing if you're interested. $45 plus shipping. I know you said Bimmerworld has one for $42, but I can't imagine them selling for half what the dealer gets. I think I paid $75 from the dealer after a discount. Maybe the BW piece doesn't have the bushing. If it does, that's a great deal. Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:49 AM Subject: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help andadvice > Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:40:44 -0500 > From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice > > Was looking for rear camber and in the end I left myself with a snapped > rear control arm, as well as what's left of a rust adhered eccentric > bolt stuck inside the RR knuckle bushing. The eccentric bolts were > obviously extremely over-torqued and rusted, the left came off with > lotsa heat and patience, the other gave up with similar attempts and the > nut snapped off leaving the bolt rusted inside that bushing. Against my > better judgment, I drove the car to work the next day figuring that this > broken and rusted bolt isn't going to come out. Well I'm happy to > report it didn't come out but it didn't take long to snap the control > arm. Handling was poor and was getting progressively worse; sure enough > the other side of the control arm where the eccentric head of the bolt > was left forced enough stress with the undesirable movement and twisting > causing failure. > > > > Needless to say I need a new control arm, and need to extract what's > left of the bolt/control arm from the knuckle. I've been searching and > have learned the control arm upper bolt can be removed by loosening the > sway bar and pivoting it out of the way to access two of the rear diff > carrier bolts and then hit the 3rd on the front allowing you to move the > diff around to facilitate enough room to pull the long inner control arm > bolt out. Surprised but not afraid to do it, but what choice do I have, > <shrug>. > > > > I see that ground control/rogue/turner sell adjustable lower control > arms through our list sponsors. I like the design of the turner and > greater range of adjustability, but also recognize the GC set-up with > what appears to be an arm with a spherical ball joint that replaces the > rubber bushing on the diff side of the CA. I also have seen the SPC > ones on ebay for $159, but at $100 or more cheaper than the rest, > durability is suspect IMO. What is the best cluck for the buck? I do > remember some list members recently having problems with the bushings > coming loose on some of the aftermarket control arms. I also realize > bimmerworld has an oem replacement from lemfoerder for $42, and that is > probably my most inexpensive fix since I only need the right one. > Reality is however, that I am still on original springs/dampers/bushings > (well except RSM,Z3 plates,strutbar) with 92K and that perhaps > adjustable control arms at this point would be pointless. I just hate > to spend money on parts twice, and one day I will have my dream > suspension, just not sure I can afford the time/$$ right now. I am also > very paranoid what other bolts I will break in the repair/replace > process, as parts blaster and heat only do so much. I am running 17x9 > with 255/40, so ease of adjustability would be nice, however with stock > height and rolled fenders I don't have any rubbing yet. > > > > Advice on work, parts alternatives, and control arm donations > appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > Patrick Goss > > 97 M3/4 > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. yak roof rack for sedan on ebay - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 07:36:28 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: yak roof rack for sedan on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7989955979 &rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1
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#3. Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for helpandadvice - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 05:51:25 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for helpandadvice Wow! I feel stupid. I hope the guy who bought my other one doesn't read this list. He'll feel stupider ;-) Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> To: "'Jay W. Hudson'" <jwhud@budget.net>; "'E36M3'" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 9:09 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for helpandadvice > Jay, > > Yup, $42 w/inner bushing is right, that's what we sell them for too. The > inner bushing alone is about $14. Brand is Lemfoerder so it's not Genuine > BMW but I think we've already been down that road. The dealer costs much > more in many cases, sometimes justified, sometimes not. > > Cheers. > > Jack Money > #86 CM M3 > Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jay W. Hudson [mailto:jwhud@budget.net] > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 11:19 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help > andadvice > > Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:13:27 -0700 > From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help > andadvice > > I have the GC adjustable LCAs. I likey. > > I have an OEM with inner bushing if you're interested. $45 plus shipping. > > I know you said Bimmerworld has one for $42, but I can't imagine them > selling for half what the dealer gets. I think I paid $75 from the dealer > after a discount. Maybe the BW piece doesn't have the bushing. If it does, > that's a great deal. > > Jay > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 7:49 AM > Subject: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help > andadvice > > > > Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:40:44 -0500 > > From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> > > Subject: WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice > > > > Was looking for rear camber and in the end I left myself with a snapped > > rear control arm, as well as what's left of a rust adhered eccentric > > bolt stuck inside the RR knuckle bushing. The eccentric bolts were > > obviously extremely over-torqued and rusted, the left came off with > > lotsa heat and patience, the other gave up with similar attempts and the > > nut snapped off leaving the bolt rusted inside that bushing. Against my > > better judgment, I drove the car to work the next day figuring that this > > broken and rusted bolt isn't going to come out. Well I'm happy to > > report it didn't come out but it didn't take long to snap the control > > arm. Handling was poor and was getting progressively worse; sure enough > > the other side of the control arm where the eccentric head of the bolt > > was left forced enough stress with the undesirable movement and twisting > > causing failure. > > > > > > > > Needless to say I need a new control arm, and need to extract what's > > left of the bolt/control arm from the knuckle. I've been searching and > > have learned the control arm upper bolt can be removed by loosening the > > sway bar and pivoting it out of the way to access two of the rear diff > > carrier bolts and then hit the 3rd on the front allowing you to move the > > diff around to facilitate enough room to pull the long inner control arm > > bolt out. Surprised but not afraid to do it, but what choice do I have, > > <shrug>. > > > > > > > > I see that ground control/rogue/turner sell adjustable lower control > > arms through our list sponsors. I like the design of the turner and > > greater range of adjustability, but also recognize the GC set-up with > > what appears to be an arm with a spherical ball joint that replaces the > > rubber bushing on the diff side of the CA. I also have seen the SPC > > ones on ebay for $159, but at $100 or more cheaper than the rest, > > durability is suspect IMO. What is the best cluck for the buck? I do > > remember some list members recently having problems with the bushings > > coming loose on some of the aftermarket control arms. I also realize > > bimmerworld has an oem replacement from lemfoerder for $42, and that is > > probably my most inexpensive fix since I only need the right one. > > Reality is however, that I am still on original springs/dampers/bushings > > (well except RSM,Z3 plates,strutbar) with 92K and that perhaps > > adjustable control arms at this point would be pointless. I just hate > > to spend money on parts twice, and one day I will have my dream > > suspension, just not sure I can afford the time/$$ right now. I am also > > very paranoid what other bolts I will break in the repair/replace > > process, as parts blaster and heat only do so much. I am running 17x9 > > with 255/40, so ease of adjustability would be nice, however with stock > > height and rolled fenders I don't have any rubbing yet. > > > > > > > > Advice on work, parts alternatives, and control arm donations > > appreciated. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Patrick Goss > > > > 97 M3/4 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* >
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#4. UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 09:27:12 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice First off, Thanks to all whom have commented, your help has been greatly appreciated! Still not sure what control arm I'm going to go with, after looking further at BMP and UUC, I am even further from deciding as BMP has what looks like a nice aluminum arm (pair on sale now for $251) and then a more expensive kit using steel, while UUC has the sexy chromoly ones which appear nuke proof. I believe I haven't decided if I will steer clear of any arms having spherical metal bushings with concerns about ride harshness for a primarily street driven vehicle. Crisp handling would be great, just not kidney pounding. I gather the list feedback I received is more from persons heavily sprung with race springs, so I'm not sure how one can tell a spherical bushing would make much a difference since it's certainly not a dampening position. I do agree they transfer stress elsewhere. I had energy suspension bushings in a previous acura I owned I had set up for autox-ing and well 3 subframes later only racing on street tyres, I had to reinforce the lowers to keep things durable. Hoping for more list consensus here. The 42 oemish arm and some of list generous offers are still an option too for the short run. I also wanted to update on the repair process and get further advice; removal was quite easy, soaking things with PB overnight seemingly paid off. With the arm now removed and after a close inspection of the bushing with the bolt left in the knuckle, I unfortunately found a small tear in the rubber bushing. The bushing has no play in it yet, but I imagine it will not be long. My question is can this bushing be replaced with the knuckle still in the car. I'd hate to have to loosen the axle and risk tearing up a wheel bearing in the process and then there is that feeling of "while I'm in there" replacing everything else which I haven't budgeted for exactly at this time. That ground control kit does include that bushing, hmmmm? As you can see I still need some help. Thanks, Patrick -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Goss - PA Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:49 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:40:44 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice Was looking for rear camber and in the end I left myself with a snapped rear control arm, as well as what's left of a rust adhered eccentric bolt stuck inside the RR knuckle bushing. The eccentric bolts were obviously extremely over-torqued and rusted, the left came off with lotsa heat and patience, the other gave up with similar attempts and the nut snapped off leaving the bolt rusted inside that bushing. Against my better judgment, I drove the car to work the next day figuring that this broken and rusted bolt isn't going to come out. Well I'm happy to report it didn't come out but it didn't take long to snap the control arm. Handling was poor and was getting progressively worse; sure enough the other side of the control arm where the eccentric head of the bolt was left forced enough stress with the undesirable movement and twisting causing failure. Needless to say I need a new control arm, and need to extract what's left of the bolt/control arm from the knuckle. I've been searching and have learned the control arm upper bolt can be removed by loosening the sway bar and pivoting it out of the way to access two of the rear diff carrier bolts and then hit the 3rd on the front allowing you to move the diff around to facilitate enough room to pull the long inner control arm bolt out. Surprised but not afraid to do it, but what choice do I have, <shrug>. I see that ground control/rogue/turner sell adjustable lower control arms through our list sponsors. I like the design of the turner and greater range of adjustability, but also recognize the GC set-up with what appears to be an arm with a spherical ball joint that replaces the rubber bushing on the diff side of the CA. I also have seen the SPC ones on ebay for $159, but at $100 or more cheaper than the rest, durability is suspect IMO. What is the best cluck for the buck? I do remember some list members recently having problems with the bushings coming loose on some of the aftermarket control arms. I also realize bimmerworld has an oem replacement from lemfoerder for $42, and that is probably my most inexpensive fix since I only need the right one. Reality is however, that I am still on original springs/dampers/bushings (well except RSM,Z3 plates,strutbar) with 92K and that perhaps adjustable control arms at this point would be pointless. I just hate to spend money on parts twice, and one day I will have my dream suspension, just not sure I can afford the time/$$ right now. I am also very paranoid what other bolts I will break in the repair/replace process, as parts blaster and heat only do so much. I am running 17x9 with 255/40, so ease of adjustability would be nice, however with stock height and rolled fenders I don't have any rubbing yet. Advice on work, parts alternatives, and control arm donations appreciated. Thanks, Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 07:34:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice Are you talking about the ball joints? How old is the car? Are you sure there's no play? :) My car at 110k miles has a little play in all the ball joints (both left and right side). While trying to remove one of the eccentric bolts (it was seized in place), I destroyed the ball joint. Wayne took the whole trailing arm/half shaft somewhere and they removed it so I can't comment on the removal, but we were able to install the new one using a socket and mini sledge :) I think I have since found the correct fittings... Chester --- Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> wrote: > tear in the rubber bushing. The bushing has no play in it yet, but I > imagine it will not be long. My question is can this bushing be > replaced with the knuckle still in the car. I'd hate to have to loosen > the axle and risk tearing up a wheel bearing in the process and then > there is that feeling of "while I'm in there" replacing everything else > which I haven't budgeted for exactly at this time. That ground control > kit does include that bushing, hmmmm?
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#6. Help, track tire wear problems..... - from Townsend, William
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:36:08 -0400 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: Help, track tire wear problems..... I have a 96 M3 with the GC race/track suspension in it with RD sway bars. I used 500 in/lb front springs, and 545 in/lb rear springs. The tires are toyo ra-1 235/40-17 on BMW 8.5 inch rims all around. I first tried 1/16 toe out front and 1/6 toe in rear. Camber was -3.25 front and -2.75 rear. I could not get the tires on any corner to wear even. Inside and center temps 15-20 degrees higher than outside with probe. Tried pressure adjustments etc. Corded (inside tread) those tires at 9 track days. (NHIS, LRP, watkins glen) Got new tires. Went to 0 toe front, 1/32 toe in rear. Camber -2.5 front and -2.25 rear and on two days at NHIS the insides are still wearing more and temps are the same. Maybe the wear is less dramatic but not by much. I do my own alignments. String box on a level surface. Camber gauge is a speedmarx. I have re-checked my numbers after driving the alignment and are smack on as I set them. Any experience with this?? I run the RA-1's cold 28lb and hot they hit 40lb. Was going to keep taking camber out but wanted to hear others experience..... Thanks, --Bill
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Help, track tire wear problems..... - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 09:43:35 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help, track tire wear problems..... Doesn't the speedmarx gauge measure castor, perhaps something is messed up there. -----Original Message----- From: Townsend, William [mailto:wtownsen@enterasys.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 10:39 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Help, track tire wear problems..... Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:36:08 -0400 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: Help, track tire wear problems..... I have a 96 M3 with the GC race/track suspension in it with RD sway bars. I used 500 in/lb front springs, and 545 in/lb rear springs. The tires are toyo ra-1 235/40-17 on BMW 8.5 inch rims all around. I first tried 1/16 toe out front and 1/6 toe in rear. Camber was -3.25 front and -2.75 rear. I could not get the tires on any corner to wear even. Inside and center temps 15-20 degrees higher than outside with probe. Tried pressure adjustments etc. Corded (inside tread) those tires at 9 track days. (NHIS, LRP, watkins glen) Got new tires. Went to 0 toe front, 1/32 toe in rear. Camber -2.5 front and -2.25 rear and on two days at NHIS the insides are still wearing more and temps are the same. Maybe the wear is less dramatic but not by much. I do my own alignments. String box on a level surface. Camber gauge is a speedmarx. I have re-checked my numbers after driving the alignment and are smack on as I set them. Any experience with this?? I run the RA-1's cold 28lb and hot they hit 40lb. Was going to keep taking camber out but wanted to hear others experience..... Thanks, --Bill ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Re: Cleaning the MAF - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 09:44:46 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cleaning the MAF on 8/2/05 10:49 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > That's the premise of the aftermarket filters like K&N and ITG...without the > oil, lots of particles would get past. That's why I will only use paper > elements...not worth it to me... The spray oil that ITG supplies is quite sticky, more like spraying on liquid glue than oil. I've never detected a trace of oil (or dust for that matter) in the inlet tract downstream of the filter. Don't know about the K&N stuff. on 8/2/05 10:49 PM, "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> wrote: > I was under the impression that the ITG foam filter supplied with the Jim > Conforti Euro HFM kit could be washed with gasoline. Um, it's sort of > dissolving now. ITG's instructions say to was either with kerosene or with dishwasher detergent in water. Since a) I don't keep a bunch of kerosene around, and b) splashing around in a bucket of the stuff isn't my idea of fun, I use Palmolive in warm water. And my filter has remained soft, smooth and youthful, just like the ads claim! ;-) ITG does say not to leave the filter soaking in water as that will soften the glue that holds it together. Just clean it, rinse and allow to dry. See also: <http://www.itgairfilters.com/content2.asp?section=cleaning> Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#9. RE: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 09:50:28 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice If you are calling the ball joint the point where the oem lower stamped steel arm connects precisely below where the drive shaft enters the knuckle then yes, what I am calling a bushing = your ball joint. If I can push, melt or curse this one out while on the car, then I'll consider pushing something aftermarket it there. If not I may honestly just leave it in for the time being and button things back up until a later time... -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 10:34 AM To: Patrick Goss - PA; E36M3 Subject: Re: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice Are you talking about the ball joints? How old is the car? Are you sure there's no play? :) My car at 110k miles has a little play in all the ball joints (both left and right side). While trying to remove one of the eccentric bolts (it was seized in place), I destroyed the ball joint. Wayne took the whole trailing arm/half shaft somewhere and they removed it so I can't comment on the removal, but we were able to install the new one using a socket and mini sledge :) I think I have since found the correct fittings... Chester --- Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> wrote: > tear in the rubber bushing. The bushing has no play in it yet, but I > imagine it will not be long. My question is can this bushing be > replaced with the knuckle still in the car. I'd hate to have to loosen > the axle and risk tearing up a wheel bearing in the process and then > there is that feeling of "while I'm in there" replacing everything else > which I haven't budgeted for exactly at this time. That ground control > kit does include that bushing, hmmmm?
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#10. RE: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: UPDATE - RE: [E36M3] WTB RR lower control arm; need advice; cry for help and advice --- Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> wrote: > If you are calling the ball joint the point where the oem lower stamped > steel arm connects precisely below where the drive shaft enters the > knuckle then yes, what I am calling a bushing = your ball joint. > > If I can push, melt or curse this one out while on the car, then I'll > consider pushing something aftermarket it there. If not I may honestly > just leave it in for the time being and button things back up until a > later time... Not sure why you'd put anything aftermarket in there as the factory ball joints seem to be high quality items that don't wear and don't have any slop or compliance. They are also sealed with the rubber boots...that's something that doesn't happen with any of those cheap monoball/heim joint/ball joint aftermarket options....which is primarily the reason why they fail so quickly. You're talking about items #2 and #3 in the following diagram, correct? http://tinyurl.com/dxd44 Chester