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#1. RE: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 21:20:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight That's where the 2x4 with a regular floor jack comes into play :) I think you mentioned working with a lift? If so, were you geting a real tranny jack or a tranny jack adapter that fits on a floor jack? If it's a retrofit, though things are useless as it'll be too short. I have one and have never used it. Other than that, you're better off with floor stand type pole lift. We call it a dead man, but I'm not sure if that's the real term for it... Chester --- "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> wrote: > Agreed on all points. The heave-ho is what is required to get either the > tranny or diff into place. From my view in the case of the diff, it's just > nice to have it supported by something close by in case you need to take a > breather in between the heave-ho's.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 00:48:56 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight Chester sez: >Haha. The only problem I see with a tranny jack is the tranny isn't really a >straight shot into tranny tunnel. As you can see, the head of the engine is >rotated off a virtual center high point. As such, the tranny has a protrusion >for the head but it would interfere with the tranny tunnel. Thus, you have to >kind of rotate so the protrusion is at the top, engage the input spline to the >clutch disc and then rotate the tranny back to the correct position. Whenever >we do this, we usually just use the heave-ho method since it's faster and >well, >it works. Having heave-ho'd with Chester - I can testify that it works. It helps a lot to have the car a reasonable distance off the ground - in this case about 3-4' on Wayne's father's lift... (or is it Wayne's? Dunno..) Much higher than that means you're lifting it lots higher. Lower than that and you can't get on your knees as you need to when giving it the heave. I gotta finish cleaning out my garage so I can put a lift in.. >As for the diff. Getting the diff off the jack apparatus and into >the subframe housing might prove difficult. Again, the heave-ho method kinda >works best :) Just get a friend to help you. Plus, you shouldn't be working >on heavy stuff like this alone for fear of an accident... True words. >Just some thoughts, >Chester Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ====================================================================
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#3.Solid motor, tranny, and diff mounts for you JP/IP/Mod guys + X-brace - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:31:05 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: <FS> Solid motor, tranny, and diff mounts for you JP/IP/Mod guys + X-brace Gruppe, Since my plans changed I no longer need these. These are brand new VAC aluminum diff, motor and transmission mounts. I think 1 diff and 1 trans mount aren't solid aluminum to allow a small amount of flex in the system. $350 for all of them + shipping from 48034. I think that's about a $50-70 savings. I also have a brand new X-brace with hardware. $120 + shipping. Anywho, let me know if you're interested. -Carlos. 98 M3 E30 325is Spec E30
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight and the old heave-ho - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:21:27 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight and the old heave-ho Having done my tranny and diff lots of times using the old heave-ho method I will add my thoughts. Most of them are the same as Chester's because most of the time I am with him when doing it. The transmission adaptor for the floor jack was useless because, as he pointed out a) it is too low and b) you can't lift and rotate with it to get the tranny to fit. Another note of less interest here is that the 20lb (?) difference between the 5-speed and the 6-speed doesn't sound like a lot when looking at overall percentages but it sure feels it when doing the lifting! As far as doing the diff, the heave-ho with two people is the preferred method but it can be done (and has) with one person and a dead man. What I did was disconnect everything and get it ready and then call my brother and tell him that if I don't call him back in 10 minutes to call the police and have them come to the house and check on me in the garage. Luckily it didn't come to that ;-) I positioned the dead man under the diff so when it started to come out of the sub-frame the bottom edge ended up on the dead man. I then lowered the dead man a little so the front of the diff ends up pointing up and did a quick heave-ho to lift it to the ground. To install the diff, I did the reverse - lower the dead man, heave-ho the bottom edge of the diff up onto the ledge with the front pointing up and then crank up the dead man to get everything in place. I just looked it up and found what we call the dead man under safety stand: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41856 My garage is low so the lift only goes up 3-4' so I had to cut down my stand but it has proven to be very helpful in working on cars. Hope this helps, -Wayne
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#5. Re: Tranny weight - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:58:09 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Tranny weight on 8/15/05 11:13 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Haha. The only problem I see with a tranny jack is the tranny isn't really a > straight shot into tranny tunnel. I was talking to a friend at the track about this over the weekend and he gave me a really good tip - thanks Ken! - to aid in sliding the tranny back in place (could also help in getting it off), especially if working alone. Buy a couple of long (maybe 4 inches?) bolts the same diameter as those used to attach the gearbox to the engine. These are 8, 10 or 12mm diameters depending on which you choose, see: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=23_011 7&hg=23&fg=10> It would make sense to use the large sizes, and maybe 3 of them would provide more positive location than 2. Cut the heads off your bolts, then cut a screwdriver slot in the ends. Screw them into the engine and use them as guides to align the gearbox as you slide it into place. Don't use them to suspend the gearbox weight though; that's what the transmission jack is for. Once the gearbox is seated on the stock locating dowels secure it with a couple of bolts and unscrew your home-made alignment guides. I haven't tried this myself yet, but it clearly makes sense. I also bought one of these transmission jacks: <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178> for $50 on sale at my local Harbor Freight store, $60 mail order. It's rated for several time the weight of the M3's gearbox and is very solid. Note that it's non-hydraulic. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#6. Turner vs. VAC Oil Pan Baffle - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:45:07 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: Turner vs. VAC Oil Pan Baffle There is always the home brew method documented by... Why not get a LWT GT pan and pick-up? KLBurgess - not going there again! -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 14:41:21 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Turner vs. VAC Oil Pan Baffle They look slightly different and I'd like to order one tonight or tomorrow morning, as I'm going to try to see if my car can be ready by Friday morning for THill this weekend... Any reason to go with one vs. the other in a street car that sees a ton of track miles? Thanks for any input, Jonathan L.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Power Steering Hose Failure - from Eric Carlson
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:46:04 -0400 From: "Eric Carlson" <eric@bluehammock.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power Steering Hose Failure Raza, Can you document the process of your replacement? I'm getting ready to do this myself and would love to see some images/steps laid out. Regards, - Eric ________________________________ From: Raza Uddin [mailto:raza.uddin@gmail.com] Sent: Mon 8/15/2005 9:23 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Steering Hose Failure Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 18:18:43 -0700 From: Raza Uddin <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Steering Hose Failure Thanks again for all the responses. I had a chance to get underneath the car and the failed hose is, in fact, the one that connects to the trombone. Paying $100 for a new hose (and trombone that I don't need) only to be paranoid about failure again isn't tempting, so I'm thinking about following Jay's suggestion about getting some standard high pressure hose and that I can make a bit longer and attach with heavy duty worm gears. Drive Safely, Raza
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#8. Shifting woes - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:14:48 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: Shifting woes Hi all, I can really use some help here. I am having some sort of shifting problem that I am not sure what it might be. When I start the vehicle and begin driving, everything is normal. The first time that I go into fifth gear, normal again. But after that, the detent that you normally feel as you go into fifth gear disappears. In fact, the shift lever feels as though it is now being pulled to the right with a fair amount of force. It becomes quite difficult to find third gear. When I am back in the lower gears, the lever will all at once snap back to the correct position and all will be normal again. There does not appear to be a rhyme or reason to why it suddenly corrects. At first, I would experience this in cold weather only. It started at about 52K miles. I put in Redline synthetic, and the problem disappeared for awhile. Then it progressively began to reoccur until the point where it is right now (118K miles) and is my new modus operandi. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? Thanks in advance! -Matthew
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 17:30:23 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Tranny weight > I also bought one of these transmission jacks: > <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178> > for $50 on sale at my local Harbor Freight store, $60 mail order. It's rated > for several time the weight of the M3's gearbox and is very solid. Note that > it's non-hydraulic. I have the same HF jack, it worked just fine for the tranny and the rear subframe with no real problems. Of course it's no use if you have a lift but I don't have that luxury. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#10. Re: Tranny weight - from Thomas E. Tice
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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 23:45:45 -0400 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: Re: Tranny weight That's the "el-cheapo" tranny jack that I bought as well. In fact it is of use with a lift. I have found that whenever you are working on seriously heavy items under the car you don't want the lift anywhere near the top of the range. In this case I have the lift just high enough to accomodate the maximum range of the transmission jack. Even with the car no higher than you might have it up on jackstands, it's sooo much more reassuring being under the car perched on a lift rather than jackstands especially if you are heave hoing heavy items. In reality the car is usually up at least twice as high as you can accomplish with jackstands so it more convenient as well. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '98 328iC '02 X5 '93 325iS JP in the works > I also bought one of these transmission jacks: > <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178> > for $50 on sale at my local Harbor Freight store, $60 mail order. It's rated > for several time the weight of the M3's gearbox and is very solid. Note that > it's non-hydraulic. I have the same HF jack, it worked just fine for the tranny and the rear subframe with no real problems. Of course it's no use if you have a lift but I don't have that luxury. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************