E36M3 #4447

Thursday, August 25, 2005 18:50:17

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help - from Townsend, William
#2. RE: Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from kevin ogrodnik
#3. Re: [E36M3] Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from Chris Turrisi
#4. RE: [E36M3] Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from Don Eilenberger
#5. Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from Neil Maller
#6. Toyos/michelins - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
#7. Re: Any Experiance with the Toyo T1-R? - from Shane Kleinpeter
#8. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Toyos/michelins - from marco
#9. Inattentive Emissions Personnel - from Hans Batra
#10. RE: [E36M3] RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help - from Dave DeBuhr

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#1. RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help - from Townsend, William
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 11:39:44 -0400 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help Gee, this sounds painfully familiar!! Had the same happen to my 96. Tried to release the cylinder via the little hole on the side and no way! Ended up hot wiring the car to get it started since was stuck in the run position. Took it to the dealer. They had to drill out the cylinder. Replaced the wheel lock mechanism and cylinder. Broke 2 titanium drill bits doing it. Cost me $850. Ouch!! I would have not done this one myself. --Bill 96 M3 coupe red PS you can also disconnect the coil harness on the left of the motor to kill it. >I went to shut my car off in my garage. The key turned a little and then >the lock freewheeled. When the cylinder 'caught again, it wouldn't budge >in either direction. The key can be pulled out and the engine is running! >I had to dump the clutch in gear with my foot on the brake to kill the >motor. >Key is in the on position so I had to disconnect the battery too. > >Any ideas? No way to start the car until I get it fixed.

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#2. RE: Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from kevin ogrodnik
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:32:11 -0700 (PDT) From: kevin ogrodnik <kwogrodnik@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Clutch Slave Cylinder problems > Luckily we were able to fish out all the pieces from the bellhousing (we hope!) without dropping the tranny again. Inquiring minds like me want to know - how did you do that? -Wayne >>>>Magnet for the metal parts. The non-metal parts were luckily close to the opening and fished out by hand. Hi all, After putting the tranny back in and attempting to bleed the clutch, the slave cylinder basically exploded and sent the piston and spring into the bellhousing. While attempting to bleed the line the clutch pedal stopped about an inch or two off the floor, and felt like it was 'caught' on something. After attempting to push the pedal a couple times it still felt 'caught' and it then let go, popped, went to the floor, and exploded the cylinder. Any idea of what it could have been catching on? Was it possibly just a bad cylinder, even though it worked fine previously? Hoping to not have to drop the tranny again. Luckily we were able to fish out all the pieces from the bellhousing (we hope!) without dropping the tranny again. It is #14 on this diagram: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=21_0059&hg=21&fg=10 Thanks in advance. Kevin 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ____________________________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:32:33 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch Slave Cylinder problems Kevin, Just a guess, but the tip of the clutch cylinder pin may have not been inserted correctly or fully into the clutch fork I had the same thing happen to me. The tip of the slave cylinder was not seated correctly in the fork and it basically over extended when I tried bleeding it and the slave cylinder exploded. I too was able to fish all the parts out, but the exploding cylinder also spewed brake fluid on the brand new clutch which started to slip within 1,000 miles of use. See if you can check the face of the clutch to see if fluid got on it. Hope this helps, Chris T 97 M3 >Any idea of what it could have been catching on? Was >it possibly just a bad cylinder, even though it worked >fine previously? >Hoping to not have to drop the tranny again. >Luckily we were able to fish out all the pieces from >the bellhousing (we hope!) without dropping the tranny >again. > >It is #14 on this diagram: > >http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=21_0059&hg=21&fg=10 > >Thanks in advance. >Kevin >95 M3 > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >*************************************************

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#4. RE: [E36M3] Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:45:45 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Clutch Slave Cylinder problems At 11:30 AM 8/25/2005, you wrote: >From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Clutch Slave Cylinder problems > > > Luckily we were able to fish out all the pieces from the bellhousing (we >hope!) without dropping the tranny again. > >Inquiring minds like me want to know - how did you do that? > >-Wayne What he asked! Since Chester and I had to drop mine after the slave-pushrod fell into the bellhousing. We tried for a bit with some magnetic thingamabobs from Sears with no luck at all - the thingambobs kept finding themselves attracted to everything but the pushrod. Oh - Kevin - it really sounds like the pushrod wasn't engaging the clutch fork.. can't see how the parts could escape if it had engaged it. You might make certain your clutch fork is lined up correctly with the hole for the slave cylinder before installing a new one. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence: 1998 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S

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#5. Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder problems - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 11:56:32 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder problems on 8/25/05 10:30 AM, kevin ogrodnik <kwogrodnik@yahoo.com> wrote: > After putting the tranny back in and attempting to > bleed the clutch, the slave cylinder basically > exploded and sent the piston and spring into the > bellhousing. While attempting to bleed the line the > clutch pedal stopped about an inch or two off the > floor, and felt like it was 'caught' on something. > After attempting to push the pedal a couple times it > still felt 'caught' and it then let go, popped, went > to the floor, and exploded the cylinder. The clutch slave cylinder guts are held into their casting by a pressed-in spring retainer at the open end of the casting (I have the one in front of my as I type). However this spring retainer is only sufficient to prevent the thing from coming apart in handling. If you apply hydraulic pressure when the actuator rod is unrestrained it *will* pop out, much as would happen with a brake caliper. That's why BMW has a special tool (well of course they do...) to lock the rod for bleeding the clutch slave cylinder while it's detached from the bell housing. My bet is that the slave cylinder's rod wasn't engaged on the release fork, part #5 here: <http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=21_005 3&hg=21&fg=05> maybe because the fork itself, its plastic pivot pin or retaining spring weren't properly in place. In any case the catch you felt in the clutch pedal travel was likely the slave cylinder's piston/rod reaching the end of its normal excursion. The subsequent pop was the spring retainer being pushed out, followed by ejection of all the slave cylinder's innards and a nice spray of brake fluid into your bellhousing. I don't know whether it's possible to assemble the clutch/pressure plate (if that's what you were doing - you didn't say) improperly such that the release fork moves too far and allows overtravel of the slave cylinder. I do know that Figure 1 on page 210-1 of Bentley shows the clutch disk in the wrong orientation (its extended hub should point toward the engine). Figure 10 on page 210-5 is correct, although not as detailed. A good resource for all this is at: <http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_ Replace.htm> See especially Figures 23 thorough 27, as well as 39. Note that their pics show a sprung-hub clutch, which the stock M3 part isn't. Semi-pro clutch/flywheel R&R'ers like Chester may have other ideas and better advice, but it seems to me as if you're going to have to remove the tranny, partly to find out why this happened and fix it, but also to clean the brake fluid off of everything. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!

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#6. Toyos/michelins - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 13:16:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Toyos/michelins On Thu, 25 Aug 2005, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:36:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00) > From: dgcrum@jps.net > Subject: Any Experiance with the Toyo T1-R? > > Hi Folks, > Since I really like the handling, wear, and ride of my RA1s, I am > considering Toyo's street tire. I haven't tried the T1-R, but in case you didn't know, you can currently buy the Michelin Pilot Sport in 235/40-17 for $132 ea., with free shipping, from tires.com. Buy four and you can mail in a rebate for $50 additional off. The pilots are really fun tires, but tread wear is questionable. Still, $120 each, shipped, after rebate, is a pretty sweet deal. Zach

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#7. Re: Any Experiance with the Toyo T1-R? - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:47:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Any Experiance with the Toyo T1-R? I don't have any experience with the T1-R but I did think this was a good time to report on what I am running. I replaced the tires on my M3 about a month ago with the Avon Tech M500's and I couldn't be happier. I'm very impressed with wet and dry grip, noise (none) and the price (less than $500 for the set). Grip is on par with the Michelins that were on the car in the dry and better in the wet. I can't say how long they will last or if they will get noisier with age (Yoko ES-100's were unbearable once they got 5k on them). I'd recommend them to anybody for street tires. Shane ____________________________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

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#8. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Toyos/michelins - from marco
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:06:51 -0700 From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Toyos/michelins Are these the Pilot Sport Cup tires? M -----Original Message----- From: Zachary Eyler-Walker [mailto:zwalker@cs.utk.edu] Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 10:20 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Toyos/michelins Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 13:16:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Toyos/michelins On Thu, 25 Aug 2005, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:36:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00) > From: dgcrum@jps.net > Subject: Any Experiance with the Toyo T1-R? > > Hi Folks, > Since I really like the handling, wear, and ride of my RA1s, I am > considering Toyo's street tire. I haven't tried the T1-R, but in case you didn't know, you can currently buy the Michelin Pilot Sport in 235/40-17 for $132 ea., with free shipping, from tires.com. Buy four and you can mail in a rebate for $50 additional off. The pilots are really fun tires, but tread wear is questionable. Still, $120 each, shipped, after rebate, is a pretty sweet deal. Zach ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#9. Inattentive Emissions Personnel - from Hans Batra
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 17:58:08 -0400 From: "Hans Batra" <hansbatra@yahoo.com> Subject: Inattentive Emissions Personnel Gruppe, Took the 98 M3 in for the required annual emissions inspection. All goes well and I pay the $25 fee. Emisssions guy hands me the report so I can turn it into DMV to renew my tag. Before I leave the testing station, I review it and notice that my mileage has been entered incorrectly...correct mileage on the car is 101250, and he entered it into his computer as 110250. I ask him to correct his mistake and he says the emissions data immediately transmits to the state once the testing procedure is complete. He says he can do another test at no charge and hopefully the 2nd test will supercede the initial test but he's not sure. He runs a second test, this time with the correct mileage entered. Looks like I possibly have a project on my hands as I don't want a mileage discrepancy to show up on Carfax, if and when I decide to sell the car and the future potential buyer runs a Carfax report. I'll have to talk to someone at the State level tomorrow to see if I can get this cleared up...and I may have to talk to Carfax, Inc as well. I'll keep ya'll posted. Sigh. regards, Hans

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#10. RE: [E36M3] RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 16:42:00 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help I took the ignition switch off the back of the cylinder. Holding the key in the ignition with one hand, I easily rotated the backside of the cylinder that engages the switch to the off position. At that point I heard a loud click and the key turned freely again. I guess whatever jammed in the cylinder, unjammed itself. Put everything back together again and test stared the car about 20 times. Works like new!!! Maybe I'll change the cylinder at some point as preventative maintenance and avoid getting stranded, but it looks like I dodged an $800 bullet this time. Dave 98 M3/4 ps, thanks William. -----Original Message----- From: Townsend, William [mailto:wtownsen@enterasys.com] Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 8:40 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 11:39:44 -0400 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: RE: Ignition Switch Problem - need help Gee, this sounds painfully familiar!! Had the same happen to my 96. Tried to release the cylinder via the little hole on the side and no way! Ended up hot wiring the car to get it started since was stuck in the run position. Took it to the dealer. They had to drill out the cylinder. Replaced the wheel lock mechanism and cylinder. Broke 2 titanium drill bits doing it. Cost me $850. Ouch!! I would have not done this one myself. --Bill 96 M3 coupe red PS you can also disconnect the coil harness on the left of the motor to kill it. >I went to shut my car off in my garage. The key turned a little and then >the lock freewheeled. When the cylinder 'caught again, it wouldn't budge >in either direction. The key can be pulled out and the engine is running! >I had to dump the clutch in gear with my foot on the brake to kill the >motor. >Key is in the on position so I had to disconnect the battery too. > >Any ideas? No way to start the car until I get it fixed. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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