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#1. RE: Steering Wheel Shake under high-speed brake... - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:30:46 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Shake under high-speed brake... I also recall this experience also. Though rotors were warped, had an opportunity to re-torque before I replaced 'warped' rotors and shake went away. I think the current TIS revision < http://www.zvolution.com/documents/36/10/AZD_36_10_Wheels.pdf > states lug torque to be 120 NM +/- 10 NM which is the equivalent of 88.5 ft-lbs, though I am using 76 ft-lbs, which I believe to be the value stated in my owners hand book. This does not explain the under 60 mph - over 60 mph issue. KLBurgess -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 22:29:15 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Steering Wheel Shake under high-speed brake... In a message dated 8/31/2005 1:00:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, snoltens@yahoo.com writes: I still have a steering wheel shake issue at speeds above 60 mph. - under 60 is ok... Any suggestions? May sound crazy, but retorque the lugs, if too tight this could happen. Torque spec is 76 ft-lbs. Good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA #13 BSP
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality - from david tow
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Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 12:32:17 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality Should I replace the original springs? It probably might be a good idea to replace them with a new set, I guess, since everything is apart. I don't like adjustable shocks. Could I get something non-adjustable? Koni shocks and struts must be very expensive. What brand name is the stock? Bilstein? -------------------- From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Koni shocks in the back and strut inserts in the front with stock springs should suit you just fine. -------------------- From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> It's possible. I finally replaced the M3's suspension at about 100K miles, which included ~10,000 track miles. I was finally getting dizzy from all the wallowing :-) What I, and others, seem to be happy with is going with Koni SA shocks with the stock springs. I've got mine set at about 1/2 turn or so from full soft. I was lucky and got my set used (Hi Jonathan!), so didn't have to do the "cut-n-gut" on the front struts. I'm actually replacing the rear shocks this weekend (leaking) with SA external adjustable ones.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:43:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality Check out prices at http://www.shox.com They'll give you the price of the Bilsteins and Konis. The konis aren't that expensive and the adjustability is something that you set it and forget it....esp if it's a street application. Stock is Boge (I think). Chester --- david tow <david_tow@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 12:32:17 -0700 > From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality > > Should I replace the original springs? It probably might be a good idea to > replace them with a new set, I guess, since everything is apart. I don't > like adjustable shocks. Could I get something non-adjustable? Koni shocks > and struts must be very expensive. > > What brand name is the stock? Bilstein?
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:49:35 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality On Thu, September 1, 2005 12:40 pm, david tow said: > Should I replace the original springs? Why, unless you want to change the ride height and/or ride quality (which according to your subject you don't want to do)? > I don't > like adjustable shocks. Why? > Could I get something non-adjustable? Bilsteins are non-adjustable, but I haven't heard them described with "stock ride quality" - but maybe I haven't listened closely :-) You can of course replace with another set of stock shocks/struts, sourced from your favorite BMW parts supplier. > What brand name is the stock? Bilstein? Boge. Jim Bassett
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#5. Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality - from Alan Leung
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Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 16:17:46 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality And I think Don had success with Monroe's? Sounded like a low cost/high quality/stock ride combo. Don, can you give us your impression now that you've had them on for a month? Alan 95 M3 - still waiting for GC coilover. almost 3 wks now >-------------------- 9 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:12:05 -0700 (PDT) >From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> >Subject: Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality > > > From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> > > > > I always think my car > > came out of the factory with a perfect ride/handling quality. So I >would > > like to replace my old stock set with a new stock set. > >Anyone looking for new rear OE BMW shocks, let me know, I have a new set >that was installed and >removed (buddy changed his mind after ordering and then installing and went >ahead with Bilstein >Sport instead) so I turned right around and removed them. > >Again, set is for all intents and purposes brand new. Shipping isn't an >issue. > >Also, if you want to coordinate getting new OE front struts, let me know, I >can easily assist to >make this one stop shopping at a discount. > >Later, > >Rich
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Oil Level Pop Quiz - How much is *too* much? - from Rex Tener
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Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:25:35 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Level Pop Quiz - How much is *too* much? At 02:00 PM 9/1/2005 -0500, twisty M3 wrote: >Now my oil is WELL above full! It's not just at the top dot, but all the >way up to the "2," which is the first digit in the part number (probably >another full quart... I'd guess the actual level amount to be 8.5-9 quarts). I have run my cars consistently with the oil covering the number 4 that is in the sequence "427" on the dipstick. So, I think you are fine. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#7. RE:Water Pump - from Alan Leung
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Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 16:31:20 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RE:Water Pump John, I did the same last spring so I'll give my 02 cents. I'm sure you'll get lots of tips if you search the archive. Flush the cooling system with distilled water after drain to clean any old coolant out first. Fan nut is left-hand threaded and not the easiest to get loose without the special tool to hold the clutch. Victory sells them at reasonable cost. May be a good time to replace the fan clutch. Definitely a good time to replace the radiator if it has more than 35 or 50k on (depending on who you ask). Options range anywhere from stock to M coupe S52 3-row version (higher cooling capacity than stock) to all aluminum (my choice - no plastic neck, peace of mind). Replace all the hoses that need to come off during the job at the same time. Fill system with BMW coolant/water mix only and change every 2 yrs. Good luck! Alan 95 M3 - with Zionsville Al radiator. no more overheating >-------------------- 4 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 08:51:04 -0700 >From: John Hoffner <jhoffner@gcfinc.com> >Subject: Water Pump > >I am getting ready to replace the water pump, belt and thermostat in my >95 M3. The thermostat housing is the metal version. Any advice while I'm >in there? Any cautions or tricks to this job? > >Thanks, >John
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#8. RE: [E36M3] RE:Water Pump - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 15:47:24 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE:Water Pump I agree with Alan about the flush with distilled water. On the fan nut, I guess I was lucky, but I purchased a big (don't remember the size) open ended Craftsman wrench. A couple of sharp hits with a dead blow hammer (the ones filled with lead shot) and off she came. I had the airbox out so there was plenty of room for a good smack! The one word of warning about that method is to pad your drivers side fender with a couple of towels of you might chip the paint. Do you have a Bently manual? If not, you use the bolts that hold the water pump to gently push off the pump. Once you remove them, there are two threaded holes to carefully and evenly screw the bolts into that push the pump off the block. Good Luck, Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Alan Leung [mailto:alanleung100@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 3:40 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE:Water Pump Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 16:31:20 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RE:Water Pump John, I did the same last spring so I'll give my 02 cents. I'm sure you'll get lots of tips if you search the archive. Flush the cooling system with distilled water after drain to clean any old coolant out first. Fan nut is left-hand threaded and not the easiest to get loose without the special tool to hold the clutch. Victory sells them at reasonable cost. May be a good time to replace the fan clutch. Definitely a good time to replace the radiator if it has more than 35 or 50k on (depending on who you ask). Options range anywhere from stock to M coupe S52 3-row version (higher cooling capacity than stock) to all aluminum (my choice - no plastic neck, peace of mind). Replace all the hoses that need to come off during the job at the same time. Fill system with BMW coolant/water mix only and change every 2 yrs. Good luck! Alan 95 M3 - with Zionsville Al radiator. no more overheating >-------------------- 4 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2005 08:51:04 -0700 >From: John Hoffner <jhoffner@gcfinc.com> >Subject: Water Pump > >I am getting ready to replace the water pump, belt and thermostat in my >95 M3. The thermostat housing is the metal version. Any advice while I'm >in there? Any cautions or tricks to this job? > >Thanks, >John ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 15:07:35 -0700 (PDT) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality The Bilsteins are stiffer than stock but work great. I went with them about a year ago and couldn't be happier. YMMV Kent > Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:49:35 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Keep stock suspension's ride/handling quality > > On Thu, September 1, 2005 12:40 pm, david tow said: >> Should I replace the original springs? > > Why, unless you want to change the ride height and/or ride quality (which > according to your subject you don't want to do)? > >> I don't >> like adjustable shocks. > > Why? > >> Could I get something non-adjustable? > > Bilsteins are non-adjustable, but I haven't heard them described with > "stock ride quality" - but maybe I haven't listened closely :-) > > You can of course replace with another set of stock shocks/struts, sourced > from your favorite BMW parts supplier. > >> What brand name is the stock? Bilstein? > > Boge. > > Jim Bassett > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#10. FS: 99 M3/2 NEW parts - from Chad Milam
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Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 15:33:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Chad Milam <m_three99@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 99 M3/2 NEW parts Since my M3 was declared a total loss due to an accident that I was involved in (not my fault, though I ended up with a few injuries)..... I have decided its time to part ways with a bit of the gear that is left over from it. So here is the list of brand new parts for an m3/2: 1/ Carbon fiber bolt on hood. Clear coated, can be painted if desired but looks pretty darn good unpainted. not perfect, but not expensive either. $200 2/ Front control arms with bushings and lollipops all installed as a single unit, ready to bolt on no messing around. bushings are 95 m3 offset style. $375 3/ Inner fenders, both sides, brand new $50 4/ JTD under panel for manual trans car, never installed. $130 5/ upper and lower rear outer ball joints - Make offer 6/ Rear upper inner control arm bushings - make offer 7/ Rogue adjustable rear lower camber arms - make offer 8/ Rear subframe busings, front and rear - make offer 9/ rear subframe mounts, not sure who's, but not factory, I think I got them from KMS. None of this stuff has even a single minute of use, most of its in plastic still. I would honestly prefer to sell all of this locally (Waterford, MI 48329). I would rather not deal with shipping, especially on the hood. If the prices are off, please kindly let me know and I will work with anyone on them.... I really just want this stuff gone. regards. chad ____________________________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs