-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re[2]: [E36M3] Windshield Installer Recommendation in LA/OC? - from Andrej Dolenc
Top
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 23:19:59 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Windshield Installer Recommendation in LA/OC? I noticed after many miles that the original glass on my M3 had scratches from the windshield wipers. Not very deep ones, but they were there. Plus they absolutely looked sandblasted by the time a bigger rock cracked the windshield pretty well. The securit glass aparently isn't very hard. The shop I used was willing to put in PPG glass instead, and I have not regretted it at all. High quality glass, has the same shading at the top of the windshield. Seems to stand up to rocks and such better, doesn't pit as easily. The only thing that busted it would have busted any glass - a tire carcass that hit so hard it popped off the main rear view mirror off the glass. Literally, it landed in my lap. Make sure they use an OEM gasget kit and you'll be good to go. I'm on my 2nd PPG windshield, and have no plans on going back to the OEM stuff. Hope that helps, Andrej '97 M3 > So I called All Star Glass in Irvine and got a quote and also > inquired about the installation. They use PPG class and apparently > can come out and get it done in about an hour. Is PPG okay? I have > the coupe so is the PPG glass going to come with that "lip" on the > edge for channeling rain at autobahn speed? And if they're claiming > it'd be done under an hour, am I setting myself up for a poor > installation because that's not enough time allocated for it?
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 Vader Bowden Cable - from M540
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 07:38:33 -0400 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 Vader Bowden Cable Thanks for the link Murray, that's a great site! Oddly, this site appears to list two parts for this cable, 52 10 8 0187999 and 52 10 81 211437. The only difference listed is that one is BRAUN and one is GRAU. The body of mine appears black. Anyone know if BMW considers this to be grey or if I need another part entirely? Thanks again, Kevin -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 20:13:11 -0700 From: Murray Roblin <mdrlist@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 Vader Bowden Cable have you tried looking it up in the online parts database at http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ ? This allows you to identify your car by build date. Murray Roblin Palo Alto
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. tckline Rollbar install questions - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 09:04:35 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: tckline Rollbar install questions Guys, For anyone that's BTDT. I'm about 70% of the way there with the installation of the roll bar. I'm at the point of drilling the holes. So 3 or so questions: Which holes to drill first? Main hoop or rear down tubes. Do you tighten the main hoop first then the down tubes or just go a little at a time with every fastener? Next question, do you squirt some silicone on the bolts to seal up the holes? I really don't want any water getting in through all those holes. :-/ Thanks in advance, -Carlos 98 M3
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] tckline Rollbar install questions - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 10:42:18 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tckline Rollbar install questions On Sep 12, 2005, at 6:15 AM, Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com wrote: > Which holes to drill first? Main hoop or rear down tubes. Do you > tighten > the main hoop first then the down tubes > or just go a little at a time with every fastener? Main hoop first, then down tubes. Get the bolts installed and then torque the nuts a bit at a time, round-robin. > Next question, do you squirt some silicone on the bolts to seal up the > holes? I really don't want any water > getting in through all those holes. :-/ Put a bead of sealant on the backing plates (under the car) before you install. - Mark, been there, done that ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. front lower control arm rear bushing offset - how mounted? - from Barrett Nicholas
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 11:29:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Barrett Nicholas <barrettn@swbell.net> Subject: front lower control arm rear bushing offset - how mounted? Managed to get stupid over the weekend an in a monent's inattention managed to hit a curb and bend the driver's side front lower control arm. I'm planning on using the '96 and later rear bushings that have the offset to them since with KMAC camber plates the caster settings are about maxed out for street settings. IIRC, the offset bushing increases the caster - does anyone know the proper orientation of the offset for when they're pressed into the carrier. Logic seem to make me think that they'd mount with the hole towards the bottom of the carrier, lowering the back of the control arm, but I thought I'd double check since the Bently doesn't mention it. Thanks, Barrett
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. wtb: Racing Dynamics RGR rims, 17 x 8 - from Barrett Nicholas
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 13:37:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Barrett Nicholas <barrettn@swbell.net> Subject: wtb: Racing Dynamics RGR rims, 17 x 8 I'm hoping maybe someone on the list has a couple of these rims they'd like to part with - I'm betting that I've just bent another one (they certainly aren't the worlds strongest rims, (or lightest, for that matter) but luckily I got the set at a very good price). as it is right now I only have the four and my spare's rim won't clear my big brakes up front, so I could use a couple of them. Thanks, Barrett
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Cooling System Upgrades - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 08:44:58 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Cooling System Upgrades At the track last weekend one of the instructors suffered a failure of the coolant expansion tank on his (high mileage) M3 when a 2-3" long crack formed on one face of it. Incidentally this is also a known E39 issue, so shouldn't be considered an isolated thing. This post is just an alert and a suggestion to consider replacing the expansion tank as part of any general cooling system R&R or upgrade. As I recall it's only about a $35 part. As it happens I replaced my expansion tank a while back, partly because it was stained and discoloured enough that I couldn't see the coolant level any more. Now I'm really glad I did that. My M3 has "only" 90K miles on it, and I know plenty of Digesters have many more miles than that on theirs. I guess we're getting to the point where serious thought has to be given to preventative maintenance. Damn, getting old sucks! Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Check Engine Codes? - from Stan Shaw
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:30:37 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Check Engine Codes? My '96 M3 is showing the check engine light, and the following codes are showing C9 Pre-Cat Oxy sensor noactivy Cyl #4-6 E4 Oxy sensor adaptation limit Cyl #4-6 C6 not listed in my Peake guide, anyone know what this is? Is my solution to replace the pre-cat oxygen sensor? Looks like a @$105 part. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Cooling System Upgrades - from Rex Tener
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 08:33:38 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cooling System Upgrades At 08:55 AM 9/13/2005 -0500, Neil Maller wrote: >This post is just an alert and a suggestion to consider replacing the >expansion tank as part of any general cooling system R&R or upgrade. As I >recall it's only about a $35 part. Oh, now you tell me. :-) I had done the usual radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing, serpentine belts, and water pump at 6 years (around 60K miles) on my 1996 M3. This summer I developed a random intermittent coolant temperature rise at idle. Some days it would be fine, other days I would notice the coolant gauge was above half. Usually, bringing the RPM up with the throttle would be enough to start to bring the temperature back down and when the car started moving again the coolant temperature would return to normal. I figured the fan clutch was weak. I replaced the fan clutch and everything seemed back to normal. However, at an autox on the hottest day of the year in California's central valley, after my last run, I let it idle while I loaded my stuff from the grid into the car and I noticed the coolant temp was up again. Damn it, so the fan clutch was not the problem. I decided to bring the car home to figure out the problem and not run the second day of the event. I got the M3 home, backed it into the garage, and let it idle, the temp immediately went up. That is when I realized the electric fan was not kicking on to bring the temp down. Then I made a dumb mistake. Instead of running the A/C, which turns on the electric fan and cooling the motor with my sprayer, I just shut the motor off. Which prompted it to puke about a 1/4 of its coolant out through a newly formed crack in the expansion tank. Dumb, dumb, dumb. I know better than to turn off a hot motor that can be cooled down. It looks like an intermittent fan switch is the problem. I replaced the fan switch, coolant level switch (I have been getting false warnings), expansion tank, and all the little things that hold or connect them together. These are all the things that were not replaced three years ago when I replaced most of the cooling system. I have run several more days in the central valley since then and the car has been fine. I am pretty convinced it was a weak fan clutch and an intermittent fan switch that was the root cause of the problem. When I replace the cooling system again in 2008 after 12 years, I will replace everything that coolant touches except for the motor. >Damn, getting old sucks! It sure does. Oh yeah, the car too. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] Cooling System Upgrades - from Reid Conti
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 08:51:54 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cooling System Upgrades To what extent are the 3 biggies (water pump/thermostat housing/radiator neck) problems on S52-powered M Coupes? In my 95 M3 I replaced this stuff (as well as belts and hoses) at 60k miles, which was good because my water pump was starting to go. I just bought a 2000 M Coupe; I know the water pump material should be fine (either metal or the new composite, not the old plastic impeller like on the 95 M3), but of course the bearings can go. And what of the thermostat housing? Is the radiator neck still prone to fail in the same way as on M3s? Thanks! - reid > I had done the usual radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, thermostat > housing, serpentine belts, and water pump at 6 years (around 60K miles) on > my 1996 M3.
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. Re: [E36M3] Check Engine Codes? - from mdriver13@aol.com
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:53:05 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Check Engine Codes? Stan, That's what it sounds like. Just make sure you replace the right O2 sensor. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA #13 BSP -----Original Message----- From: Stan Shaw <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 10:35:05 -0500 Subject: [E36M3] Check Engine Codes? Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 11:30:37 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Check Engine Codes? My '96 M3 is showing the check engine light, and the following codes are showing C9 Pre-Cat Oxy sensor noactivy Cyl #4-6 E4 Oxy sensor adaptation limit Cyl #4-6 C6 not listed in my Peake guide, anyone know what this is? Is my solution to replace the pre-cat oxygen sensor? Looks like a @$105 part. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************