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#1. RE: [E36M3] blown head gasket woes - from David Ngo
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 08:58:56 -0700 (PDT) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] blown head gasket woes For the 3.2L motors, the TIS says that you should not machine the head at all. There is no such warning for the 3.0L motors. Dave --- Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: > M3 heads allow for > 0.012" removal, > and I didn't want to start removing material if I > didn't have to.
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#2. Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 09:08:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings > From: "Patrick Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> > Hello all, > > The "Tech Talk" columnist in Roundel, Mike Miller, keeps harping on the > "rear subframe failure" of E36's, as if every car is on the verge of > dropping its rear end. Yeah, he is way, way over the top with his vitriolic spewings about E36s and many more "modern" BMWs (anything newer than E30s). He acts like every E36 is crap and all the BMW engineers went on permanent holiday after the E30. I recently told Brett Anderson (who is often consulted by Mike on various responses as you have likely seen) what I think of Mike Miller. Aside from E36 radiators (and most BMWs built after E30s from what I have seen) which are crap and will break well before 100k miles (whereas I have known of a number of E30 radiators over 200k miles) and a few other more minor items, he clearly has an ax to grind. > Is there anyone here who has actually experienced, first-hand, this? I > don't recall it EVER coming up on this list, at least in the last five > years. Right there is just about all the data you need. > 95M3, heading to Octoberfest (Septemberfest?) in two days If you see Mike Miller, tell him to get a grip. Later, Rich - far from biased between E30s and E36s... 95 E36 M3 90 E30 325is 91 E30 318is
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Dipping RPM - from Robert Exconde - 99e36m3
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 11:12:39 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde - 99e36m3" <99e36m3@Exconde.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dipping RPM Nope, no CEL. How would you go about checking these? Should I not be driving the car? Is there something that I could do on my own. re -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 19:49:32 -0500 From: <Funk@bvamotorsports.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dipping RPM Sounds like an idle control valve issue, or a small intake leak. And the lack of oil pressure is caused by the low RPMs. Does the Check engine light come on? Joe Funk BVA Motorsports 503-319-3499
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Question: Camber Correction Bolt - from Alan Leung
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 11:13:28 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Camber Correction Bolt Thanks a lot for Chris, Andrew and Pat for your inputs. I'll be running camber plates so I won't go the small-bolt/big-hole route. With the spring rates I chose I'd like things as snug as possible. I was curious if BMW had some trick eccentric bolt. Alan 95 M3 - GC coilover shipped! > >-------------------- 9 -------------------- >Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 15:51:45 -0500 >From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Camber Correction Bolt > >Idea: Swap 96+ strut hats for mega camber, correct with smaller bolt, >or slot knuckle to go even further... > >Reason: eliminating spacer/facilitating wider wheels, provide more wheel >to strut clearance. > >Make sense? Things that make you go hmmmmm...., > >-----Original Message----- >From: Patrick Goss - PA [mailto:Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM] >Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 4:45 PM >To: E36M3 >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Camber Correction Bolt > >Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 15:43:15 -0500 >From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Camber Correction Bolt > >Regardless a 12mm bolt vs 14mm bolt will not provide much camber at all. >More free mega camber swap strut hats. Consider also that if you run >8.5" wheels up front you might rub also. Just an opinion... > >Patrick Goss >97 M3/4 ghetto suspension > >-----Original Message----- >From: cteague@cox.net [mailto:cteague@cox.net] >Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 4:25 PM >To: E36M3 >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Question: Camber Correction Bolt > >Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 16:24:51 -0400 >From: <cteague@cox.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Question: Camber Correction Bolt > >Alan, > >The factory bolt is a shouldered "snug" fit bolt. Snug as in just most >any bolt. But the shoulder part is larger than the thread part. I >think it was 14mm vs 12mm. So it's a special purpose bolt. This >"camber correction" bolt is just a normal 12mm bolt, threaded all the >way to the head. So it has extra "slop", and allows you to get a little >more camber. Of course, if you don't tighten it enough, it slips, and >the camber and toe will change. > >I don't know any reason to buy this bolt. There are better ways to get >camber (shims, swapping strut hats, or camber plates) that allow >positive lock. Some organizations (SCCA Solo 2) don't allow the use of >this bolt anyway. > >If you have to have it, you don't need to buy it from your dealer >anyway, since it's just a normal bolt. I still have the 2 I bought, and >I never used. > >Chris > > > Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 15:03:35 -0500 > > From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> > > Subject: Question: Camber Correction Bolt > > > > Can anyone tell me what the Camber Correction Bolt is about and how it > > > works? It's item #5 below. Thanks! > > > > >http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF93&mospid=47486&btnr=31_ >0420&hg=31&fg=10 > > > > Alan > > 95 M3
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#5. Parts for sale - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 12:04:25 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Parts for sale Fwd'ing for a friend who can't post (computer issues). Please contact Jack if interested. -Carlos. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Got a few parts to get rid of, all are new, never used. Email with interest, jack@elephantmotorsports.com. set of Ground Control delrin rear trailing arm bushing supports....$40/set stock engine mounts....$90/pair stock ICV, Bosch....$100 Thanks. Jack Money Elephant Motorsports
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#6. Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Alan Leung
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 11:22:34 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement I'll be replacing my rear lower control arms with camber-adjustable units and after some *quality* time I spent under the car during my RTAB replacement last week I noticed it's not a trivial task. Jay mentioned that to get the inside bolts out I'll probably want to move the differential back an inch or so. Now my questions: 1] how do I disconnect the drive shaft from the diff? The two nuts (out of 6) on top looked impossible to get to 2] how heavy is the diff? do I need to remove the rear sway bar to get to the 2 diff mount bolts in the back? 3] once the diff is off the rear subframe, is there any good way to replace the front diff mount bolt bushing? Mine has cracked. 4] Is there any easier way to replace the rear lower control arms without removing the diff? Your inputs are appreciated! Alan 95 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 09:28:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement --- Alan Leung <alanleung100@hotmail.com> wrote: > 1] how do I disconnect the drive shaft from the diff? The two nuts (out of > 6) on top looked impossible to get to Uh...release the ebrake and take it out of gear and turn the driveshaft?? > 2] how heavy is the diff? do I need to remove the rear sway bar to get to > the 2 diff mount bolts in the back? Pretty damn heavy. I don't think you have to remove the rear swaybar, but then again, my car had no rear sway bar for a while so I might not be up to speed on this area. > 3] once the diff is off the rear subframe, is there any good way to replace > the front diff mount bolt bushing? Mine has cracked. A slight crack is different than deteriorated, broken and in need of replacement. If you have to replace it, I think you'll need the special tools. > 4] Is there any easier way to replace the rear lower control arms without > removing the diff? You can't get the bolts out since the diff is in the way. I don't see any way around it. Chester
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 09:30:11 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement Alan. Re: >I'll be replacing my rear lower control arms with camber-adjustable >units and after some *quality* time I spent under the car during my >RTAB replacement last week I noticed it's not a trivial task. Jay >mentioned that to get the inside bolts out I'll probably want to >move the differential back an inch or so. Now my questions: > >1] how do I disconnect the drive shaft from the diff? The two nuts >(out of 6) on top looked impossible to get to > >2] how heavy is the diff? do I need to remove the rear sway bar to >get to the 2 diff mount bolts in the back? > >3] once the diff is off the rear subframe, is there any good way to >replace the front diff mount bolt bushing? Mine has cracked. > >4] Is there any easier way to replace the rear lower control arms >without removing the diff? I've replaced the passenger-side lower control arm (twice) without moving the diff. Don't remember much about it, though ... Never had to do the driver's side. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#9. stoking the fire............ - from kwill69058@comcast.net
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 16:30:28 +0000 From: kwill69058@comcast.net Subject: stoking the fire............ I think if any of us see Mike Miller we should just walk passed and say "I own an E36, The Sky is falling !" Nuff said, :) -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ( If you can read this, thank a teacher, If you can read this in English, thank our Soldiers ! )
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#10. RE: [e36m3] RE: [E36M3] blown head gasket woes - from marco
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 09:34:37 -0700 From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] RE: [E36M3] blown head gasket woes which is interesting since the heads are practically identical. so are the blocks. Marco -----Original Message----- From: David Ngo [mailto:rudngo@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 9:05 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] RE: [E36M3] blown head gasket woes Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 08:58:56 -0700 (PDT) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] blown head gasket woes For the 3.2L motors, the TIS says that you should not machine the head at all. There is no such warning for the 3.0L motors. Dave --- Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: > M3 heads allow for > 0.012" removal, > and I didn't want to start removing material if I > didn't have to. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************