E36M3 #4475

Friday, September 16, 2005 08:25:57

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Patrick Goss - PA
#2. Re: [E36M3] Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings - from Chester Wong
#3. Re: [E36M3] Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings - from Don Eilenberger
#4. Re: blown headgasket - from Admranger
#5. RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Alan Leung
#6. RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Patrick Goss - PA
#7. 2 dr front corner markers - from Vince Leo
#8. Re: [E36M3] 2 dr front corner markers - from Kent L. Shephard
#9. RE: [E36M3] Re: blown headgasket - from Admranger
#10. FS e36 race/track car - from Vince Leo

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#1. RE: [E36M3] Question:  Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 12:47:02 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement Having been there recently, you don't have to disconnect the driveshaft to move the dif to provide inner CA bolt removal access. You can remove the 3 diff bolts and swaybar brackets, then just jack up and move the diff side to side to remove the inner CA bolts, one side at a time. Hopefully your alignment tech didn't monkey torque the outer ball joint eccentric bolts, like in my situation. Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Alan Leung [mailto:alanleung100@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 12:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 11:22:34 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement I'll be replacing my rear lower control arms with camber-adjustable units and after some *quality* time I spent under the car during my RTAB replacement last week I noticed it's not a trivial task. Jay mentioned that to get the inside bolts out I'll probably want to move the differential back an inch or so. Now my questions: 1] how do I disconnect the drive shaft from the diff? The two nuts (out of 6) on top looked impossible to get to 2] how heavy is the diff? do I need to remove the rear sway bar to get to the 2 diff mount bolts in the back? 3] once the diff is off the rear subframe, is there any good way to replace the front diff mount bolt bushing? Mine has cracked. 4] Is there any easier way to replace the rear lower control arms without removing the diff? Your inputs are appreciated! Alan 95 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 11:12:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings --- Peter <JPWheelr@dakarm3.com> wrote: > Anyway, 95+ cars (especially M's) are so reenforced that it seems > dang near impossible to happen. The only e36 issue I've seen on an M > was a 97 M3 4 door where a shock had shot through the shock tower > because the tower gave (negligent owner sold car to less negligent > owner that was told "That's a normal noise") > > I only see about 200 e36's / year in the shop here, so I might be > taking from too small a sample. I think the rear trailing arm mounts are a weak point....as mine are cracking and I hopefully haven't pulled all the way out :( I got a TIG welder just to repair it myself. Any expert welders in the NY/NJ/CT area? I'm a good student :) Chester

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 14:22:13 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mike Miller's Roundel Ravings At 11:55 AM 9/15/2005, Walter wrote: >Patrick Kelly wrote: > > > Hello all, > > > > The "Tech Talk" columnist in Roundel, Mike Miller, keeps harping on the > > "rear subframe failure" of E36's, as if every car is on the verge of > > dropping its rear end. > > > > Is there anyone here who has actually experienced, first-hand, this? I > > don't recall it EVER coming up on this list, at least in the last five > > years. > > >I read that article and many other "E36s are crap" articles from him >over the years. I also read him giving advice on what car to use for the >track. I live in the northeast - I've been to just about every track day >the Del Val, NJ and several others (CT Valley, Patroon, & PCA regions) >have had in the last 5 years. I've never met Mike Miller or seen him on >a roster. Not even in an Accord. > >My two E36s have had over 30k miles of track use between them (328is 5k, >M3 25k) - several of my good friends also show up in E36 M3s. None of us >has ever left the track early because of a failure of any sort. (A >couple of "issues" but they were fixed on the scene). Proper maintenance >is a must - but they are pretty bulletproof by my experience and a >better, more capable all around performer than all previous BMW >models... and yeah, I include the E30 M3s & all M5s in that statement. > >-- >Walter I have heard of failure of the subframe mounts and of the rear shock towers (where the rear-shock-mounts live).. I hang out on a number of M3 forums where the ummm... younger owners of E36/M3's live. Almost all with failures have modified suspension, typically with stiff/lower springs, bilsteins, coil-overs and urethane or Ground-Control solid bushings. The design was a bit marginal from BMW (which is why later M3's are reinforced in these areas), but woefully prone to damage if you really stiffen up the supposed to be compliant parts of the suspension and throw all the impact forces back on the mounting points.. and then if you tend to thrash the car (which they seem to do..) That said - I find Mike Miller about worthless since he makes lots of overly wide generalizations based on a few incidents he hears about.. "ALL BMW auto-transmissions WILL blow up as soon as you go over 100k miles" ding..ding..ding.. hard to explain how I've had three of them in 5 series that went way over 100k with no problems. He hears about a few and then paints the failure with a very broad brush. I read an ignore what he says mostly.. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence: 1998 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S

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#4. Re: blown headgasket - from Admranger
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 12:07:19 -0700 From: "Admranger" <admranger@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: blown headgasket Brad, I can only provide a negative recommendation on Raceware head studs. Poor quality followed by worse customer service. They treated me poorly and I wouldn't expect you to be treated any better. Stick with the stock bolts and you should be fine (w/a good head gasket). Replace all the rubber bits under the intake manifold including the fuel lines. The BMW head gasket kit has all the little gaskets you'll need. Even if you choose an aftermarket head gasket, it is worth it. Hope this helps. Regards, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock (w/BMP cutting ring head gasket and stock head bolts)

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#5. RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Alan Leung
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 15:09:17 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement With the rear on jackstands, is there any significant compression/tension left in the rear sway bar I should be aware of when removing it? Do I only need to remove the rear sway from the subframe brackets or do I need to take the whole bar off to access the rear diff mount bolts? Thanks so much for all the replies! Alan 95 M3

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#6. RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 15:20:42 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement Remember the vehicle is suspensed in the air, so there isn't really any tension left in the sway bar you should be concerned about, well more than the sum of the CA, axle shaft, knuckle/brake assembly. Honestly it's not an issue. Wrench away, you don't need to worry about anything taking your arm off.... -----Original Message----- From: Alan Leung [mailto:alanleung100@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 4:15 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 15:09:17 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement With the rear on jackstands, is there any significant compression/tension left in the rear sway bar I should be aware of when removing it? Do I only need to remove the rear sway from the subframe brackets or do I need to take the whole bar off to access the rear diff mount bolts? Thanks so much for all the replies! Alan 95 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#7. 2 dr front corner markers - from Vince Leo
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 14:30:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: 2 dr front corner markers Hi Gang, Anyone have either one left clear euro front corner turn signal light or a set of the US stock amber front corner turn signal lights they want to sell me (cheap) for a race car? I need the 2 dr version. Vince ______________________________________________________ Yahoo! for Good Donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/

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#8. Re: [E36M3] 2 dr front corner markers - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 15:40:45 -0700 (PDT) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 2 dr front corner markers Contact Jim Powell at Apexcone. You can get the lights for about $25-30 for the pair. Kent > Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 14:30:15 -0700 (PDT) > From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> > Subject: 2 dr front corner markers > > Hi Gang, > > Anyone have either one left clear euro front corner > turn signal light or a set of the US stock amber front > corner turn signal lights they want to sell me (cheap) > for a race car? > > I need the 2 dr version. > > Vince > > > > > > ______________________________________________________ > Yahoo! for Good > Donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. > http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/ > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >

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#9. RE: [E36M3] Re: blown headgasket - from Admranger
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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 19:46:30 -0700 From: "Admranger" <admranger@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: blown headgasket Jack, As the standup guy that I know you are, you can't understand how a company wouldn't stand behind their products. (I'm not being sarcastic, Jack IS a standup guy -- we met at O'Fest in Colorado during the club races). However, I have objective evidence of how I was treated, and others need to understand what they can expect should they have a problem with RaceWare products. They'll make the purchasing decision once they have gathered all the info. I'm also certain that you wouldn't sell their products if you'd have had a lot of problems with them. RaceWare had several opportunities to make my situation right. Remember, their 'high quality' product came to me w/one improperly sized nut that had no threads. I guess I should have taken that as an omen. They did replace that nut w/no fuss. However, the bad experience soon followed. My BMW master tech had one of the studs snap in two while on the third step of the torque process. All three of us who were working on the car had validated the torque setting on his Snap On torque wrench at each step (can't shake nuclear industry QC once you are indoctrinated), yet RaceWare had the audacity to tell us that we didn't know what we were doing and that the BMW master tech had over torqued the bolt. Ummmm, ok, I guess that their knowledge of the problem was greater than those who actually saw what happened. After some more complaining on my part, they offered to check the bolt out if I paid hundreds of $ for all the testing. Yeah, that's superior customer service. I would have thought that they would have wanted to know if, in fact, they had a defective batch of bolts or not. I have my data point on RaceWare's customer service. I may be the anomaly, (I hope so or else others have had to endure abysmal customer service) but if I am then RaceWare really messed up and put their reputation at risk for $100 retail in head studs. Their choice. Of course, this cost me more than $100. It included a new head gasket and it kept the car on the lift for another week until the new head gasket arrived (not to mention inconveniencing the BMW master tech and my friend who was helping out). FWIW, I still have the non-threaded nut and the broken bolt to remind me of RaceWare's high quality products and superior customer service... Regards, Kirk -----Original Message----- From: Jack Money - CNM [mailto:jackmoney@charter.net] Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 4:52 PM To: Admranger; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: blown headgasket Kirk, I don't think I replied to your last post to me about this, I was busy and didn't have much to offer you really. And of course I had nothing to do with it. However, you are the only person I've ever heard have problems with Raceware products. Like any product on the market in any market, there will always be at least one person who has had some type of negative experience for whatever reason. For you to say that there's no reason to think that anyone else, Brad in this case, would be treated any different is pretty silly. You are one of no one else that I know of so I would say you are the anomoly, not the people who have had good service and product. I have used their products on countless occasions and so have my customers, none have anything but good to say. Since they are local to me, I also know several people locally who know the company and the products very well, never heard anything negative. I can't really comment on your situation because I wasn't there, I had nothing to do with it and like any situation, you are only one side of it. Regardless of your particular situation, mine and countless others will tell you Brad that Raceware products are excellent quality and they have great service. In your case, I certainly would use stock bolts though. Jack Money Elephant Motorsports > > From: "Admranger" <admranger@earthlink.net> > Date: 2005/09/15 Thu PM 03:15:01 EDT > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Re: blown headgasket > > Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 12:07:19 -0700 > From: "Admranger" <admranger@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: blown headgasket > > Brad, > > I can only provide a negative recommendation on Raceware head studs. Poor > quality followed by worse customer service. They treated me poorly and I > wouldn't expect you to be treated any better. Stick with the stock bolts > and you should be fine (w/a good head gasket). > > Replace all the rubber bits under the intake manifold including the fuel > lines. The BMW head gasket kit has all the little gaskets you'll need. > Even if you choose an aftermarket head gasket, it is worth it. > > Hope this helps. > > Regards, > > Kirk Lachman > Sin City Chapter > '95 M3 #21 I-stock (w/BMP cutting ring head gasket and stock head bolts) >

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#10. FS e36 race/track car - from Vince Leo
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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 06:24:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <m332is@yahoo.com> Subject: FS e36 race/track car Posting for a friend if anyone is looking for a nice e36 race car or killer track car at a good price. Please contact him directly at ssacks1@rochester.rr.com > ok guys - > > time to get serious > I've got to sell this car - it's ready to race - needs nothing > > Has SCCA and BMWCCA logbooks and is legal for IP and ITE > > price lowered substantially for quick sale - $ 20,000 with 2 seats and Kosei's with GSCS mounted. > > more Kosei's/GSCS and OEM M3 wheels/full tread Toyo's and open trailer also available and negotiable > > If you know of anyone doing the club race school who may need a car to race - pass it on > > The car is located in Rochester, NY. > > Contact me at: ssacks1@rochester.rr.com or > ssacks@unityhealth.org or (585) 330- 5989 > > Here's a link to the car: > http://www.bmwccaclubracing.com/static/forsale/forsale.htm > > thanks > > Stu Sacks __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

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