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#1. RE: Headlights that work - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 17:20:36 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Headlights that work At 04:34 PM 9/25/2005, Matt wrote: >Last night I had to go pick up one of me kids from an activity. It was very >dark and stormy outside with plenty of wind and rain and pitch black. > >My old sandblasted headlights and driving lights were not up to the task, so >I guess I need to seriously think about replacing them. > >I've managed to avoid the whole clear corner lights, euro ellipsoid craze, >but now I must rethink that as the old lights are not only ineffective, but >a downright eyesore. > >What are opinions as to value vs. performance vs. looking attractive? > >I am also concerned about glass lenses that break. We tend to get rocked >pretty good in the spring up here (Alaska). I typically replace at least one >driving light per year. I will definitely try those 3M film type protectors, >but do they really work? > >Matthew >98 M3/4 As others have mentioned - the ZKW's work. If you get just the ZKW with no bling ("Angel [aka "angle"] eye" add on or HID's) you should be able to get a pair for under $500, perhaps with some dickering under $400. As to what bulbs to use.. welllllll.... I did write an article with test results in it. I do NOT recommend the HID conversion. The ZKW wasn't designed for HID's and the light pattern throws too much light up and to the right (usual euro-Z-beam pattern) which will (not "might") blind people. The other not good thing with the HID conversions is the H1 conversion bulbs are not as mechanically rigid as a standard H1 bulb, and you will see the pattern jiggling up and down with bumps in the road, again blinding oncoming traffic. www.powerbulbs.com - in the UK sell some excellent bulbs that aren't available in the US that provide very close to HID performance in the ZKW light. Good enough that I felt no loss of performance I couldn't live with when I removed the HID's from mine. For data and numbers: http://www.bmwcca.org/members/AM/BMWCCA/roundel/archive/2005/08/EuroSoBright-August2005.pdf HTH, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ====================================================================
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#2. RE: Replacing spark plugs, what about direct fire plug - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 17:26:10 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Replacing spark plugs, what about direct fire plug connectors? At 04:34 PM 9/25/2005, you wrote: >Guys, > >About to replace the spark plugs on my 1997 M3 with 105k miles. Just >recently stumbled upon a tip about replacing the direct fire plug >connectors as well: > >http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exec/product_id/1922/category_id/45/search_year/1997/search_model/38 > >What do you guys think? How often should these be replaced? Thanks! > >ted Didn't know these were available without the coil. Cool. I haven't measured one - but if they have a resistor in them I would expect it to be a 5k Ohm resistor, and if it was made by Bosch I'd expect it to be a 1% (accurate to 1% of spec) resistor.. So - what I'd do - remove them and measure them with an Ohmmeter, and also look very carefully at them for any sign of tracking (electrical discharge where it shouldn't be) or cracking. Any that were out of spec I'd replace. When you get a read on the expected resistance please let us know.. as far as preventive replacement? Well - if you have a spare $60 or so it probably isn't a bad thing to do.. Best, Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ====================================================================
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: Headlights that work - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 17:07:32 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Headlights that work I did read (and enjoy) your article in Roundel, but I think you're missing two points: 1. Many harmonized US and Euro-spec HID housings throw up light to the right like Euro non-hid lights do, regardless of what BMW stock HID housings may do, so I feel that complaint is a non-issue. 2. Since the euro lights do throw up light to the right, if your headlight bulbs are anywhere near as bright as HIDs, they will also be close to as annoying/blinding. So yeah, it will be more blinding than a BMW-spec HID light to put HIDs in a ZKW, but it WON'T be more blinding than other stock HID-equipped vehicles, especially SUVs that start out higher anyway (Acura MDX anyone?). And frankly, I'll take the lighting performance any day. Disclaimer: I had ZKWs in my 95 M3, but never went the HID route for cost reasons, I felt the euro beams were almost good enough with 55w bulbs (before HIR's came out). ZKWs should be $400 new btw. Good luck. - reid > As others have mentioned - the ZKW's work. If you get just the ZKW > with no bling ("Angel [aka "angle"] eye" add on or HID's) you should > be able to get a pair for under $500, perhaps with some dickering > under $400. > > As to what bulbs to use.. welllllll.... I did write an article > with test results in it. I do NOT recommend the HID conversion. > > The ZKW wasn't designed for HID's and the light pattern throws > too much light up and to the right (usual euro-Z-beam pattern) > which will (not "might") blind people. The other not good > thing with the HID conversions is the H1 conversion bulbs are > not as mechanically rigid as a standard H1 bulb, and you will > see the pattern jiggling up and down with bumps in the road, > again blinding oncoming traffic. > > www.powerbulbs.com - in the UK sell some excellent bulbs > that aren't available in the US that provide very close to > HID performance in the ZKW light. Good enough that I felt > no loss of performance I couldn't live with when I removed > the HID's from mine. > > For data and numbers: > http://www.bmwcca.org/members/AM/BMWCCA/roundel/archive/2005/08/EuroSoBright-August2005.pdf
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#4. Check Engine Light Question + Rough Idle Bulletin # - from Foley, Brian
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Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 21:53:56 -0400 From: "Foley, Brian" <bfoley@cmpd.org> Subject: Check Engine Light Question + Rough Idle Bulletin # I believe that I didn't properly tighten my gas cap during the last fill up. Any idea how long the light will stay on until it resets itself? Question 2: Would someone please send me the bulletin number concerning the software upgrade/fix for the cold rough idle problem at startup? Thanks in advance, Brian Foley 97 M3/4
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#5. Headlights that work - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 22:32:14 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Headlights that work Matt, Hello. I have the ZKW's with HID's that I bought from Matt at Umnitza. The quality is great, and the HID's really made a HUGE difference from the stock headlights. I thought about going with the knockoffs but from asking folks on the list, the quality of the housings was VERY poor (brittle plastic) on the cheaper units. Just the ellipsoid's are a BIG step up from the stock lamps.. There was a really good 2 part article that Don did in the Roundel recently. You may wish to review it.. Good luck! Mo -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 08:41:44 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: Headlights that work Last night I had to go pick up one of me kids from an activity. It was very dark and stormy outside with plenty of wind and rain and pitch black. My old sandblasted headlights and driving lights were not up to the task, so I guess I need to seriously think about replacing them. I've managed to avoid the whole clear corner lights, euro ellipsoid craze, but now I must rethink that as the old lights are not only ineffective, but a downright eyesore. What are opinions as to value vs. performance vs. looking attractive? I am also concerned about glass lenses that break. We tend to get rocked pretty good in the spring up here (Alaska). I typically replace at least one driving light per year. I will definitely try those 3M film type protectors, but do they really work? Matthew 98 M3/4
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#6. Headlight Removal from Frame - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:34:18 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Headlight Removal from Frame I have removed the headlight carrier (with headlight bucket and turn signal lens) from my '96 M3. I want to replace the clear covers with the replacements I have in hand. I can't locate directions on how to separate the headlight bucket from the frame. I suspect the plastic allen heads may be part of this, but haven't figured out how yet. Any help is appreciated, please send direct email, as I am in digest mode. Thank you!!! Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#7. Re: Head Gasket? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 09:29:56 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Head Gasket? on 9/25/05 3:34 PM, Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> wrote: > Well, with a compression test, I answered my own question. > Cylinder Compression, PSI > 1 202 > 2 131 (oops) > 3 207 > 4 198 > 5 209 > 6 208 > So it looks like at least a head gasket leak into the cooling system > from the number 2 cylinder. > > The car has 75k miles. I know the to do while I'm there stuff > includes the cam upgrade, if I can swing it, and followers if I do > the cams. The valve retainers would make sense (my car is an early > '95, from 6/94), and the headbolts, too. The vanos and timing chain > seem quiet, at least for now. Anything else I should think about? > Of course, I just did the valve cover gasket.... Also, I know we > just talked about head gasket choices, but I wasn't sure there was > consensus on the best option. > > Also, I'm thinking about doing it myself, but removing the cylinder > head would be a first-time experience for me. Anybody local to the > Philly area who could lend a hand? It's reassuring to have a second > opinion when going into the relative unknown. Martin, I replaced the head gasket myself last year. It's very doable as long as you have a well equipped tool box and some mechanical experience. You can rent the special BMW tools that are required from Brett Anderson at <http://koalamotorsport.com/tools.asp>. The main thing you need is time, which if the M3 is your only car could be a problem. A professional mechanic who's done the job multiple times and knows the tricks will get it done in a day, but it'll take you twice that at a minimum, much more if you refresh the valvegear as well. Parts cost for the basic head gasket job will run around $400 (gasket set, required new head bolts, coolant, tool rental, etc.). I used a stock gasket because I wasn't able to locate an upgraded one at the time. You will require a helper at a minimum for the actual lifting off and putting back of the head. It's large, heavy and easily damaged. Replacing the valve retainers can be done with the head still on the car, but it'd be much easier with it off. Here's a procedure for safely removing the camshafts without the special tools: <http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camsh aft-removal.htm>. They also have a VANOS timing article: <http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Timing/E36-Camsha ft-Timing.htm>. Here's a low cost tool for compressing the valve springs (last item on page): <http://victoryproductdesign.com/tools_main.htm>. It might actually be cheaper to buy this than to rent the BMW tool. Replacement cams at the same time would involve no extra work, so it's sure tempting. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#8. Re: Headlights - from Marc Plante
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Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:44:16 -0400 From: Marc Plante <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Headlights Euro lights are WELL worth the money, and the glass lenses are fairly hefty (read stone proof, though I'm not sure about Alaskan roads). Stone guard film is probably good insurance. They're one of the first upgrades I've made to my cars, since I've always lived in white tail deer country and need the light. If you're going to be on open roads at higher speeds, then the 100W high beam bulbs are especially nice to have. Not actually sure of the specific brand I have. Bought them from Zionsville as part of a group buy many years ago. Xenon is a bit rich for my taste. Marc Plante 1997 E36M3/4 67k 2005 Child (one month and counting) Vienna, VA
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Headlights that work - from Rex Tener
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Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 09:13:50 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Headlights that work At 11:44 AM 9/24/2005 -0500, Matthew Teel wrote: >What are opinions as to value vs. performance vs. looking attractive? I went through this a few years ago and I ended up buying the ZKW Euro Ellipsoids with plug-n-play harnesses for my M3. >I am also concerned about glass lenses that break. We tend to get rocked >pretty good in the spring up here (Alaska). I typically replace at least one >driving light per year. I will definitely try those 3M film type protectors, >but do they really work? For several years we had two E36 M3's and it seems like I was replacing at least one fog light every couple of months. I put Stongard on the new headlights and fog lights, and I haven't broken a fog light (or headlight) since. Rex
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Headlights that work - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:00:13 -0700 (PDT) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Headlights that work Jim Powell at Apexcone has better pricing. I bought a set of ZKW with Angel Eyes. Kent > Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 16:01:39 EDT > From: Shelhart2@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Headlights that work > > Matt at Umnitza.com has quite a few options. The ZKW glass set up looks > great and the price is very affordable as well. The 3M film he sells is > excellent as is very effective. I think the set up was $450 or so. I > didn't go the > HID route due to cost and the fact I thought it was overkill. I'm sure > you'll get many others that may disagree and the pricing may have also > gone down > since I looked. > > Shel > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >