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#1. E46 turn signal removal - from Steve Sharp
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 10:23:43 -0700 From: "Steve Sharp" <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> Subject: E46 turn signal removal Like many of the listers, I have my E36M3 in the garage, but we also have an E46 330i that the wife drives. I need help figuring out how to get the right front turn signal unit out to replace the bulb. Hope someone can help. The manual states "Using a screwdriver, release the inner hook through the upper opening" and "Pull the lamp toward the front". If I look in the little hole they picture in the manual, I see a flat black plastic surface with a grey vertical plastic blade sticking out to the rear of it. Pushing this grey blade either inward or outward didn't seem to release the lamp housing. Anyone figured this out? Thanks! Steve Sharp San Jose, CA
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#2. Re: [E36M3] E46 turn signal removal - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 10:40:07 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 turn signal removal On Fri, September 30, 2005 10:34 am, Steve Sharp said: > The manual states "Using a screwdriver, release the inner hook through > the upper opening" and "Pull the lamp toward the front". That sounds similar to the E36 procedure. The hard part is the "pull toward the front". The gasket can REALLY seal against the body, requiring a LOT of effort to remove. All while holding the tab back with a screwdriver - hard enough to have the tab clear, but not so hard that you break the tab off. Oh, and FWIW, one can change the bulb in an E36 turn signal withOUT removing it. :-) Dunno about an E46. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
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#3. RE: Accessing the A/C Evaporator box - from Townsend, William
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 13:55:03 -0400 From: "Townsend, William" <wtownsen@enterasys.com> Subject: RE: Accessing the A/C Evaporator box Hey Marc, I had the same problem with my 97 328 and found an easier solution. First take the cabin filter out. Make sure all the junk in there is cleared out. I asked the dealer what they use to kill the mildew and went to the auto parts store where they get it. (cant remember the brand) There are many of these sprays out there. Then I sprayed the anti-fungal stuff on the evap through the filter opening. Then closed that up ran the fan on high, spray more in the fan intake just in front of the firewall. (basically following the cans directions.) (I suppose you could also spray in to the recirculation door in recirc mode too) Put a new filter in and the smell has not returned. My 96 M3 has never had this problem. I guess if this is chronic you should be turning the AC off with the fan on high for a minute or so once you park but who has time for that? Hope that helps, --Bill
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#4. Re: Inner Tie Rod Removal - from Admranger
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 12:13:21 -0700 From: "Admranger" <admranger@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Inner Tie Rod Removal To take it off, you'll need a pipe wrench. Putting the new one on and keeping it nice would require the wrench mentioned by others... I have used a pipe wrench w/no deleterious effects. Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Re: Inner Tie Rod Removal - from Alexander Fadeev
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 15:39:14 -0400 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <afadeev@smu.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Inner Tie Rod Removal > -----Original Message----- > From: Admranger [mailto:admranger@earthlink.net] > > To take it off, you'll need a pipe wrench. Putting the new > one on and keeping it nice would require the wrench mentioned > by others... I have used a pipe wrench w/no deleterious effects. FWIW, the pipe wrench approach did not work for me when I tried to replace 96K mile old tie rods on my wife's 328i. The old ones just refused to budge. My think Facom 32mm wrench was not thin enough to fit in there either. After much frustration, I had to sub-contract this project to a local independent. The first time in 5+ years that I had to turn to him because I could not DIY. YMMV, Alex f
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Inner Tie Rod Removal - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 12:46:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Inner Tie Rod Removal If your flat 32mm wrench is beefy enough (not a bike headset wrench), then you could use it to turn the tie rod. Forcing it loose will open the locking plate. Chester --- Admranger <admranger@earthlink.net> wrote: > To take it off, you'll need a pipe wrench. Putting the new one on and > keeping it nice would require the wrench mentioned by others... I have used > a pipe wrench w/no deleterious effects.
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#7. shifter roundup? - from Barrett Nicholas
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 14:54:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Barrett Nicholas <barrettn@swbell.net> Subject: shifter roundup? The rear main seal on my '95 325i is going out, so I'm getting everything together to do the clutch, etc. I'm thinking it'd be a good time to do a short shift kit, given the original shifter has 125k on it and is a bit looser than an M3 shifter to begin with. Has anyone seen any sort of reasonably up to date comparison of the short shifters out there? I've lost track of what iteration UUC is on with it's shifter, and there's been some new players come on to the field, but I have no idea how they compare. Thanks, Barrett
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#8. Re: [E36M3] was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 M3 CP brakes - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 21:21:50 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 M3 CP brakes Dead on Carlos. I wouldn't go with Brembo if they were less than the Stoptech. Stoptech is one of the few brands that seems to "get" that not everyone wants something just bigger. Their standard E36 M3 front 332 kit uses smaller pistons than the Brembos and is a very close match to stock proportioning. The Brembos add too much front bias. It is already front biased for street safety - more is not better! James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> http://www.bimmerworldracing.com <http://www.bimmerworldracing.com/> Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#9. RE: [E36M3] was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 M3 CP brakes - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 17:40:04 -0800 From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 M3 CP brakes Speaking of bias... Does anyone know of sources for a manual brake proportioning valves? I'm looking for something like this: http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-MasterCylinders/001-PV/index.asp What do you guys with front only BBKs do? Let the Anti-lock sort it out??? In my mind, that can't be a viable solution. I always thought it best to use the least amount of front brake bias as possible. BBKs must increase that substantially above stock. But then, what do I know. Matthew 98 M3/4 > -----Original Message----- > From: James Clay [mailto:james@bimmerworld.com] > Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 4:04 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 > M3 CP brakes > > > Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 21:21:50 -0400 > From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 > M3 CP brakes > > Dead on Carlos. I wouldn't go with Brembo if they were less > than the Stoptech. Stoptech is one of the few brands that > seems to "get" that not everyone wants something just bigger. > Their standard E36 M3 front 332 kit uses smaller pistons > than the Brembos and is a very close match to stock > proportioning. The Brembos add too much front bias. It is > already front biased for street safety - more is not better! > > > James Clay > http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> > http://www.bimmerworldracing.com <http://www.bimmerworldracing.com/> > Engineered BMW Performance > 540.639.9648 > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 M3 CP brakes - from Roy Kao
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Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 22:26:38 -0400 From: Roy Kao <royckao@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 was E46 M3 brakes on an E36 M3 - now E46 M3 CP brakes I'll throw another vote for the Stop Tech kits. I've been researching brake kits for my M3 and the Stop Tech has one very attractive feature that I like for my track car: easy to swap brake pads. I've always liked the Porsche setup of popping clips and slipping the pads out and in. The Stop Tech has similary convenient actions so it's a big plus in my books for those moments I'll need to swap my pads in the paddock. _____________________ Roy - '99 M3 Estoril Blue > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 12:26:38 -0400 > From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <jack@elephantmotorsports.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] > > Yeah, I would do the StopTech's for sure. I deal in AP Racing, StopTech, > Brembo, BMW stuff, Porsche stuff...from all those possibilities the > StopTech > is the best performance by far for the money. For the Brembo's, I can't > even see a reason to buy those over the StopTech's. As Carlos pointed out, > the consumables alone are way better priced. And I've read a lot about the > engineering behind improving the stiffness of the StopTech calipers, very > worthwhile which none of the other calipers have. > > And I'll have a special on StopTech's next month (starting Oct) which I'll > post here. ; ) > > Jack Money > #86 CM M3 ---> For Sale @ $32k w/spares!! > Elephant Motorsports > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >