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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 09:15:17 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... >> Nail in tire? No, I checked for that last night, that would have been an easy fix though. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#2. Radiator - from John Hoffner
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Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 09:10:41 -0700 From: John Hoffner <jhoffner@gcfinc.com> Subject: Radiator I was not aware the radiator from a Z3/Mcoupe with the S54 motor was an upgrade. I will look into this option. I have also now learned about the unit from Zionsville. Good product and a little better price than the Fluidyne. I've dealt with Zionsville before and I like their products and service. This is also a good option. Then again last night a friend showed me how he used the Zionsville radiator, electric fan... and I really like that set up. I wish I could figure out how to exert control over my car projects. I started looking for an inexpensive good fix. And now I find myself trying to weigh out the difference so spending more money on a cool setup makes sense. But then I bet I'm the only person on this board that has that problem. Oh well now I need to weigh the cost versus benefits. Thanks guys, John
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 07:26:14 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... Do you by chance use longer lug bolts because of wheel spacers? I once got one of the longer front lug bolts on the rear and it caused a clicking noise as the wheel turned. It was hitting the backing plate or something. I felt real dumb ;-) Easy fix though. Jay > Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 09:00:19 -0500 > From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... > > I had 20 minutes to spare last night and jacked the rear end up and > pulled the wheels off. I cannot reproduce the clicking noise with the > wheels off the ground although it does seem like there is some binding > in at least one spot during the revolution of the wheel. I didn't > have enough time to delve in too deeply but I will take another look > later this week. > > I am thinking either: > > Brakes dragging > Parking brakes dragging > CV joint(s) (although the rubber boots are not torn) > Something else... > > Thanks for all the ideas guys, I will post about what I find. > > -- > Jamie Howton > 2000 M5 > 1995 M3 > Hampshire, IL >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Rogue Engineering E36 M3 Exhaust - from Hans Batra
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Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 10:21:38 -0400 From: "Hans Batra" <hansbatra@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rogue Engineering E36 M3 Exhaust I have a Dinan exhaust on my 98. No droning. A tiny bit burbbly. Almost stock...until you get on it - then it wakes right up. Just perect IMO. Hans ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Dorffer" <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:04 PM Subject: [E36M3] Rogue Engineering E36 M3 Exhaust > Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 23:04:18 -0400 > From: "Rich Dorffer" <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> > Subject: Rogue Engineering E36 M3 Exhaust > > > From: Roy Kao <royckao@gmail.com> > > > > Gruppe, > > I'm sure this subject has been discussed ad nauseum, but it's tough to > > search the digest archives so if you would please indulge me this > > time, I'd > > like some input from owner who have or had the RE DMS for the E36 M3. > > Suggested alternatives are also welcome...the car is becoming a more > > dedicated track car so can finally install a new exhaust on it for more > > noise. But I still want to avoid droning or other unpleasant harmonic > > distortions and would sacrifice some volume for a bearable noise > > throughout the rev range. > > There is one solution that I know of to your entire request: > > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/RSC36/ > > UUC RSC36 is the only one I am aware of without droning or other unpleasant > harmonic distortions due to the Corsa design. > > Regards, > > Rich > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator - from Alan Leung
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Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 09:53:04 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator Another satisfied customer with Zionsville. I went with their kit with new fan and fan clutch. Items came well packaged. Installation was drop-in straightforward. Reasonable price. Significantly less than Fluidyne. Alan 95 M3 - new cooling system spring 04 >Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 10:21:59 -0700 >From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator > >I installed a Zionsville aluminum radiator earlier this year. Very nice >piece. Less than some others and has a lifetime warranty. > >www.zionsvilleautosport.com > >I call it peace of mind. > >I you go to them, let them know you were referred by me from E36M3 list. >Or, mention Bimmerforums.com. It helps grease the wheels. Might get you a >break on price. > >Jay > > > Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 10:26:23 -0700 > > From: John Hoffner <jhoffner@gcfinc.com> > > Subject: Aluminum radiator > > > > I am at a point that I have to weigh the differences in replacing the > > radiator in my 95 M3 with an OEM version or aluminum one. Price is the > > only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on the aluminum radiator. >I > > don't need to drive the car for awhile so I'm in no hurry. Now for the > > questions. Have any of you ever seen a group buy or??? for aluminum > > radiators? Is there another option than Fluidyne that is cheaper in >price > > and still worth buying. > > > > Thanks, > > John Hoffner
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 10:10:20 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... > Do you by chance use longer lug bolts because of wheel spacers? In the front I did until two weekends ago at Road America. I broke three lug bolts, two on Friday and one on Saturday all while on track. Coming into turn 14 I noticed a nasty front end vibration start so I pulled into the pits to find two snapped lug bolts on the front left wheel. I managed to scrounge a couple of studs, installed them and ran again only to snap another bolt the next day on the same wheel. I removed the spacers and ran like that (with the stock lug bolts) for the rest of the weekend without issue. I only had about 2-3mm clearance between the rim and shock without the spacer but it didn't rub. I am installing studs all around next weekend but as of now, I am running stock lug bolts on all wheels and had the stock wheels installed when I heard the clicking. I did check the lug bolt tightness last night before I removed the wheels and they were really tight, my 18V cordless impact wrench wouldn't break two of them free on a fresh battery. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... - from Walter J
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Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 11:58:47 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clicking from right rear... This might be obvious... but did you check to see if the little bolt that holds the rotor in place had backed out a little? This will cause all of the symptoms you describe because it won't allow the wheel to mate up to the hub properly. >>Do you by chance use longer lug bolts because of wheel spacers? >> >> > >In the front I did until two weekends ago at Road America. I broke >three lug bolts, two on Friday and one on Saturday all while on track. > Coming into turn 14 I noticed a nasty front end vibration start so I >pulled into the pits to find two snapped lug bolts on the front left >wheel. I managed to scrounge a couple of studs, installed them and >ran again only to snap another bolt the next day on the same wheel. I >removed the spacers and ran like that (with the stock lug bolts) for >the rest of the weekend without issue. I only had about 2-3mm >clearance between the rim and shock without the spacer but it didn't >rub. I am installing studs all around next weekend but as of now, I >am running stock lug bolts on all wheels and had the stock wheels >installed when I heard the clicking. I did check the lug bolt >tightness last night before I removed the wheels and they were really >tight, my 18V cordless impact wrench wouldn't break two of them free >on a fresh battery. > > >
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#8. Re: Clicking from right rear... - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 12:00:03 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... At 10:24 AM 10/4/2005, Jamie wrote: >I had 20 minutes to spare last night and jacked the rear end up and >pulled the wheels off. I cannot reproduce the clicking noise with the >wheels off the ground although it does seem like there is some binding >in at least one spot during the revolution of the wheel. I didn't >have enough time to delve in too deeply but I will take another look >later this week. > >I am thinking either: > >Brakes dragging >Parking brakes dragging >CV joint(s) (although the rubber boots are not torn) >Something else... > >Thanks for all the ideas guys, I will post about what I find. >-- >Jamie Howton Just a wild-ass - you probably already thought of this.. but when I hear "clicking" - I start looking for the stone stuck in the tire tread, or a nail head.. would match all your symptoms that I can see. BTDT quite a few times actually. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence: 1998 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S
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#9. My Suspension Upgrade Journey (Part I – Purchase) - Long - from Alan Leung
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Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 12:09:01 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: My Suspension Upgrade Journey (Part I – Purchase) - Long As some of your may remember I was researching on which suspension to go with on my 95 M3 two months ago and finally decided on Ground Control after much discussions with many of you, both for and against GC. My objective was to build up the suspension for track/street purpose while satisfying Prepared rules to minimize changes in the future in case I decide to give CR a try. This is not a new debate on this highly-modified digest but since I received a few emails asking about my decision process and after-purchase impressions I’ll do my best to entertain everyone. I purchased: GC SA coilover race setup (500F / 600R) GC adjustable rear lower control arms Options included: Front hybrid camber plates Rear spherical shock mounts Powerflex RTABs X-brace UUC transmission mount enforcer from Bimmerworld. Both James from BW and Dale at GC were very helpful in guiding me through spring rate, which parts to get etc. Dale was quite hard to get a hold of though but once I got him on the phone he was enthusiastic in answering my questions. I placed my order with Rob at BW on Aug 11 and procured new factory hardware from Pacific BMW. The Powerflex RTABs, X-brace, UUC transmission mount enforcer showed up in about 1.5 wks. About another week went by and I still haven’t received my GC order. A couple calls to BW yielded no definite answer. A call to Dale at GC early week 3 revealed that they were out of Koni’s but he should be ready to ship by end of week. A couple more correspondences towards the end of that week showed that a similar set had to be shipped from another retailer to Bimmerworld and the different parts swapped out there. Jay at GC sent me an email after seeing my statement about waiting for their suspension for 3 weeks in one of my posts. He indicated they have bought out all the Koni’s in both US and Holland. I concluded there must be some miscommunications between them and Bimmerworld as I didn’t hear a word about my order for 3 wks until I called. During that time I decided to install the UUC enforcers and Powerflex RTABs first and I’m so glad that I did that. The RTABs turned out to be a 2.5 day ordeal and more details later in Part II – Installation. I finally received my GC order from BW the week of Sept 12 and it was both joy and “shock”. They came in 2 boxes and the big one looked crumpled and distressed. As I tried to move it around the front strut shafts poked out from one end and random parts started rolling out the other! Not a good start for sure. I kept unpacking and discovered that the suspension set was not assembled as expected. I wrote James an email that night and he responded next day offering help in identifying how parts should go together and what might be missing. I have never looked at a coilover up close, much less put one together so I could use all the help I could get. It’s a miracle nothing seemed to be missing with the shipping box open on both ends. I cleaned up the threads on the shafts on the front struts with an old toothbrush and hoped for the best. At the meanwhile both James and Rob were very quick in answering my questions as I played the installation out in my head. Now for the hardware from Pacific BMW. My plan was to use all new hardware for the suspension and replace the outer ball joints on the rear lower arms at the same time along with other maintenance items like the fuel filter. The fuel filter shipped to me was an E30 part and to this date I’m still waiting for one ball joint. This missing ball joint really messed up my suspension installation as it’ll be described in Part II. Pacific has some of the best prices around, but apparently availability can be an issue. After I think I’ve got everything I talked to Matthew to see when his garage will be open and we decided on this past weekend to do the installation. It’s not quite done yet after 3 days but we expect to wrap it up today. Stay tuned for Part II on why a 1200 ft-lb impact wrench (yeah, you read that right) was enlisted. Alan 95 M3 – GC coilover in progress
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#10. Re: Clicking from right rear... - from jakeadavis@comcast.net
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Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 17:22:43 +0000 From: jakeadavis@comcast.net Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 09:00:19 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... I had 20 minutes to spare last night and jacked the rear end up and pulled the wheels off. I cannot reproduce the clicking noise with the wheels off the ground although it does seem like there is some binding in at least one spot during the revolution of the wheel. I didn't have enough time to delve in too deeply but I will take another look later this week. I am thinking either: Brakes dragging Parking brakes dragging CV joint(s) (although the rubber boots are not torn) Something else... Thanks for all the ideas guys, I will post about what I find. I'm betting it's the three-pronged clip on the inboard pad that slips inside the caliper piston has separated from the pad. Had the same noise. Couldn't duplicate with wheel off, bumping rotor, caliper, etc. Was able to reattach clip to pad, viola, noise was gone.