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#1. FS 95 M3 white/black 5 speed in Dallas - from Bruce
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Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 18:05:24 -0500 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> Subject: FS 95 M3 white/black 5 speed in Dallas I am selling my 10/94 build 95 M3. It is white with black leather. It has just under 105k miles at present. I bought it in Nov 2002 from the original owner. It has been a Dallas car all its life. It is bone stock with some exceptions. Factory options are full OBC, cruise, sunroof, folding rear seat, and leather (I think that is all). Not stock parts: cooling system: Zionsville aluminum radiator installed less than 3 months ago. Samco silicone upper and lower radiator hoses. Aluminum thermostat housing. Water pump replaced 2 years ago. suspension- TC Kline Trackline kit consisting of 4 Koni SA shocks, 4 Vogtland lowering springs. Ground Control RSMs. RTABs replaced when suspension changed (around 70k miles). Dinan rear sway bar reinforcement kit was added (the PPI I had done on the car suggested this be done). chip- I have a Jim C chip but it is not installed. Wired for a V1 (with remote display) but the actual V1 unit is NOT included but the remote display can be if wanted. Tranny, diff and engine oil replaced less than 3 months ago with Royal Purple and Redline. This car has dyno sheets that show 224 RWHP and 210 ft lbs of torque on the STOCK motor. Not an optimistic dyno as other 95s on this dyno have been in the 205 RWHP region. Would make a great start on a dedicated track car, club racer or autox car. This car was never autox'd but has one track event done by a friend of mine (his first ever event). Asking $14k. Extras: 1. I have a set of BBS RK 17x8 rims with good tread remaining Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires on them. These tires were used on my E30 M3 but are E36 M3 fitment. additional $1500. 2. I have a Euro E36 M3 6 speed tranny without driveshaft. Additional $2k.
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#2. Re: UUC Exhaust Install and Impressions (long) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 18:15:53 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: UUC Exhaust Install and Impressions (long) on 10/14/05 6:02 PM, Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> wrote: > What causes the loud-exhaust-on-cold-start, anyway? > > My current thinking is that maybe it runs really rich on startup and > that's why it's louder? I'm not sure that makes sense though... Rich startup mixture plus OBD-2 air injection into exhaust manifold equals loud afterburner effect? Hey, sure I just made that up, but anyone got a better idea? <g> Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#3. Re: - from Tripp Racioppi
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Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 17:30:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Tripp Racioppi <r3_m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: I'm not sure where I saw it, but there was an article in one or the other list I subscribe to that in an E36, the cluster face is illuminated through some kind of fiber optics, or whatever. At any rate, the article suggested taking the cluster out and "gently" press the back of the cluster where the dark area is and that that should eliminate it. I have not tried it, but it sounds logical. regards......r3 driver8 ///M3 wrote: Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 10:31:52 -0700 (PDT) From: driver8 ///M3 Subject: Re: cluster dark areas Not sure if we're talking about the same issue, but I also have a dark area on my gas guage as well. If i pound on the top of the dash the light comes back on...makes me feel like the Fonz... Russell 99 Dakar > Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 10:04:43 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Jim Bassett" > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: indicator lamp replacement > > On Fri, October 14, 2005 7:02 am, Patrick Goss - PA said: > > Ditto on my cluster too. All bulbs functional, but a few darker spots > > that sorta bother me. Any ideas list? > > I haven't found a solution, other than to let it solve itself. > > I had a few dark spots on the cluster, and did the same thing - took it > out to check the bulbs. All OK. A few months later, ther dark areas were > gone . > > Now, I've a new dark area right in the middle of the gas gauge. I'm > trying > not to let it bother me :-) > > If anyone does find a solution, please share. > > Jim Bassett --------------------------------- Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] My Suspension Upgrade Journey - Still Bouncy - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 01:10:36 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] My Suspension Upgrade Journey - Still Bouncy > http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=677/CA=9 > > BTW, these are quality components. At $135 shipped they compare > favorably > to the $110 stock non-adjustable end links. Just the fact that > you can use > a regular open end wrench on these instead of a thin wrench is worth the > money in my opinion. Umm, stock links don't cost anywhere near $110 a set, closer to half that for a set. Regards, Rich
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#5. Re: [E36M3] My Suspension Upgrade Journey - Still Bouncy - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 10:44:38 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] My Suspension Upgrade Journey - Still Bouncy In a message dated 10/15/2005 1:12:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, e36m3digest@ameritech.net writes: BTW, these are quality components. At $135 shipped they compare > favorably > to the $110 stock non-adjustable end links. Just the fact that > you can use > a regular open end wrench on these instead of a thin wrench is worth the > money in my opinion. Umm, stock links don't cost anywhere near $110 a set, closer to half that for a set. It's just my opinion but my feeling about adjustable end links is their only purpose in life is to "adjust" for modified suspensions that will not line up right to accommodate fixed end links. In this case they are worth every penny. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA #13 BSP
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#6. Canadian Car - from Robert Exconde - 99e36m3
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Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 11:52:45 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde - 99e36m3" <99e36m3@Exconde.com> Subject: Canadian Car Hello, Has anyone brought a car in from Canada? I'm looking into bringing in a car and I don't know what to expect, prepare for, or if it is even worth it. What is involved in the conversion process? Thanks, Robert
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#7. My Suspension Upgrade Journey Part IV - Driving Impression - Street - - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 22:54:12 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: My Suspension Upgrade Journey Part IV - Driving Impression - Street - Adjustment pin Alan, Hello.. I would definately call GC about the struts. A friend had the same problem, and tried to use a pair of needle nose pliers to "adjust" the struts. Long story short, he wound up breaking the adjusters off.. As a reference point my GC struts are very easy to adjust, so yours may have a problem with the internals.. Mo Question: The adjustment pin on one of the front struts is so stiff it’d round out the Koni plastic knob. I needed a plier to turn it. Is it normal? These are the same pins that were sticking out of the box when I received them. Could it be damaged? Alan 95 M3 – alignment done!
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#8. Used parts source? - from Craig Perrin
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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 07:52:45 -0400 From: Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Used parts source? A p-car friend of mine told me he's heard about a huge used BMW parts house in South Carolina, but he didn't know the details. Does anyone know the place he's talking about? Google was no help. Or any other place that might have a used anthracite M3 passenger-side door panel. The FL heat and humidity are exacting their toll on my interior. Thanks, Craig 95M3
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#9. Re: [E36M3] My Suspension Upgrade Journey - Still Bouncy - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:34:06 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] My Suspension Upgrade Journey - Still Bouncy >It's just my opinion but my feeling about adjustable end links is their only >purpose in life is to "adjust" for modified suspensions that will not line up >right to accommodate fixed end links. In this case they are worth every penny. I like them for the rod ends, if a quality rod end is used then I think they're more reliable than a stock sway bar link for a track car anyway. On the other hand I haven't had problems with M3 sway bar links, not in the E30 or E36 however I've heard of people breaking them in E30 M3s with adjustable sway bars, hence the Suspension Techniques front sway bar no longer being adjustable. However the stock 325 ones I have seen and had problems with. The rod end GC uses is probably not the best but it seems to be appropriate, I have not had any problems with them except for crossthreading one but that was probably my fault. You should see the rod ends PTG uses for their sway bar links, they are really nice. I wished I knew where they got them. Carlos.
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#10. Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software - from Brad DeMotte
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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:36:14 -0400 From: "Brad DeMotte" <brad@demottearchitects.com> Subject: Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software Guys, Just a follow up.... a recently blown head gasket on a '97 M3 at 115K led down the slippery slope......ended up doing a valve job, replacing pistons, rings, bearings, etc., since it was an "oil burner". Could've just replaced the head gasket and sold it, or do the rebuild in a year or 2, but that would be too easy. Couldn't resist putting in the Sunbelt cams "while you're down there". The car previously had JC software, CAI, underdrive pulleys and exhaust, just to name a few go fast goodies.Couldn't swing the entire cam kit at this time but will be done shortly. Given this, there was some question as to how the cams were going to work with the "stock" JC software....what we found was that it's a rough idle and runs lean, would be fine if the base idle could be bumped up to 1200 RPM , but idle is not electronically or mechanically adjustable on this model year. Seems to run fine under load, but definitely need the rest of the cam kit goodies to optimize the cams. Can't be pushing the upper RPM"s without the larger injectors. All the cam kits out there have software designed for the Shricks, but the Sunbelts are the new kids on the block with BIG improvements over the Shricks (20HP!!). My guess is that anyone doing the cam kit upgrade would go for the Sunbelts over the Shricks, as this is a no brainer. I hear most of the club racers have made the swap, and the first batch of Sunbelt cams sold out quick. I was curious as to how compatible the Sunbelt cams would be with that software, but it turns out that new software is currently being developed for the Sunbelts. Should hit the market in a few months once they work out the bugs.This new kit will include a larger air flow meter and you must send in the ECU, as it's not a simple "flash" like the JC software. All this info from our list sponsor friends at Bimmerworld (thanks Rob, hurry up with the software!!). Another option worth serious consideration is to use an AEM stand alone ECU instead ....slightly more $$ than the cam kit software ($1600 vs. $1100), but infinitely adjustable for future mods and reportedly worth an extra 15 HP since you can tune on a dyno (also, no waiting). Anyone out there gone this route? Engine is still being broken in but feels strong, can't wait for the rest of the cam kit and some track time. Brad '97 M3 w/ Sunbelts
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#11. [E36M3] WTB - HT-10s, front, E36M3 - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 06:29:44 -0700 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: [E36M3] WTB - HT-10s, front, E36M3 Due to a problem with my front brakes, I killed the outer pads on a set of front HT-10s for my E36M3. The inners are fine. I need 2 pads to complete my set. Not 2 sets but 2 pads. They can be inner or outer. Prefer pads with 8-10mm left on them. If you have a partial set you'd like to off, let me know. Thanks - Jay
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#12. Service Lights Reset on Their Own?? - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 09:20:38 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Service Lights Reset on Their Own?? Anyone ever had the service lights reset on their own? Mine seem to have just done that for some reason. Car is a '99 with about 151K miles and I just replaced the motor about 2k miles ago. I've always made a point to change oil every other light and one was already out with another to follow soon. The other day, however, I started up the car and noticed all green lights again and it's been that way since. I haven't plugged my Peake tool in or anything, so it couldn't have been done by mistake. Any input or experience with something like this? Jonathan L.