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#1. Re: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software - from Gary
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Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 14:17:34 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software I find it hard to believe they can tune a car in tune in two runs. Even if they have the base programming every car is slightly different. I've seen guys fine tune a car and do four, or five pulls, and this was after they had the base tune done. For what they are charging better be 100% no tuning needed... So the cam's did not come with the proper software. I was planning on getting a set of them but they need to come with software. Or at least have it available for a reasonable price, 1000 bucks is not what I would consider reasonable. Might have to wait to see what the software issues end up being...A VF SC kit is 4500 bucks, bolt on and go.. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad DeMotte" <brad@demottearchitects.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software > Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 14:10:45 -0400 > From: "Brad DeMotte" <brad@demottearchitects.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software > > That's what I thought!! It kills me......"stock" JC software is $300, then > jumps to $1200 with the cam kit. $1600 for the AEM was still reasonable, > but > $3200 is crazy unless you're racin'to win. Installation "starts" at $1800, > right off their website...includes installation,"engineering" time and 2 > dyno runs. > > > Brad > > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary [mailto:probikeguy@probikeusa.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:54 PM > To: brad@demottearchitects.com > Cc: E36M3@BMW-M.net > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software > > WOW pretty steep for Plug N play on an AEM....Installing ant tuning for > 1800, on top of purchase price of 3200! ahh most of the plug and play > stuff > is around 2500. Plug and play takes a whole total of about 1/2 hour to > plug > in...Seen it done numerous times at my buddies shop..Tuning is another > story...still sounds kind of steep...Maybe I need to get my buddy to make > some plug and play version!!! > > Gary > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Brad DeMotte" <brad@demottearchitects.com> > To: "'Gary'" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> > Cc: <E36M3@BMW-M.net> > Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:47 PM > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software > > >> Gary, >> Looks like the price of the AEM EMS skyrocketed from what I thought could >> be >> had for $1600 to $3200 for a Plug'n PLay system from EVO sport, with an >> estimate of an additional $1800 to install and tune. I decided I don't >> need >> the adjustability as this will be last of the HP mods, so I believe I'm >> gonna have Turner burn a custom chip on their dyno...... for a lot less >> money. >> >> >> Brad >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Gary [mailto:probikeguy@probikeusa.com] >> Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 12:33 PM >> To: E36M3 >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software >> >> Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 12:29:07 -0500 >> From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> >> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sunbelt Cams/Cam Kit Software >> >> fine tuning the fuel... >> >> If you just need to tune the fuel go buy a APEXi SAFC and tune your fuel >> on >> a dyno it will get the car pretty close cost around 350 dollars. Ignition >> tuning is different story...AEM stuff works very very nice. I have seen >> several on Supra's and the beta unit on an MR2 turbo. I am getting the >> AEM >> for my Miata turbo. And possibly my M3 once I supercharge it. >> >> Gary Gray >> - >> >> > >>> >>> >>> ************************************************* >>> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >>> >>> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >>> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >>> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >>> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >>> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >>> Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com >>> >>> DIGEST INFORMATION: >>> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >>> ************************************************* >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#2. (AD) Treehouse Racing Engines and parts For Sale - M50s - M20s, parts cars, more - from Jon@treehouseracing.com
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Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 14:46:59 -0500 From: "Jon@treehouseracing.com" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: (AD) Treehouse Racing Engines and parts For Sale - M50s - M20s, parts cars, more Hi all, Thanks for taking a look at some of my spare parts. Is there such a thing as Fall Cleaning? M50 Engines: 2.5l Vanos M50 Engine - 92,000 Miles - OBD1 wiring harness, intake, No track time P/N BTT12500m50 ** $1,050 2.5l Vanos M50 Engine - 116,000 Miles - OBD1 wiring harness, intake, No track time P/N IN12500m50 ** $1,050 2.8l Vanos M52 Engine 88,000 Miles - OBD2 wiring harness, Intake, No track time P/N KBH22800m52 ** $1,800 firm 2.8l Vanos M52 Engine 88,000 Miles - OBD1 wiring harness, Intake, OBD1 413 ECU, Euro HFM, M3 injectors, Custom Chip to match, No track time P/N KBH12800m52 ** $2,495 M20 Engines: 2.5l "i" motor from 1990 325i - 170,000miles, New Timing belt, Water pump, tstat, M50 injectors, M30 AFM conversion, ECU with Jim Conforti chip, Ready to drop in and plug in,Very strong runner, 1 drivers school P/N RCi2500m20 ** $795 2.5l "i" motor from 1989 325i - 130,000 Stock Engine - Ready to drop in and plug in, No track time P/N DMi2500m20 ** $625 2.7l "e" motor - 122,000 Stock Engine - Runs smooth and strong, no leaks, No track time P/N SHe2700m20 ** $350 Other parts for sale: Parting out 1992 325i 4dr 110k hit pass side. 2 good DS doors (NO Motor, trans, front sus) Parting out 1997 M3 4dr 57k hit front Lux pack interior, sunroof, LS Diff, rear suspension, 3 good doors, trunk (NO Motor, trans, front brakes) 3.2l US M3 Crankshaft (1996-1999) Excellent condition, never tracked - make offer All engines are Guaranteed Good and backed by Treehouse Racing. We can help with shipping arrangements in the continental US. Please call 615-333-9118 or email shop@treehouseracing.com for more information Thanks, Jon Siccardi ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #052 TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________
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#3. Re: Control arms... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 15:05:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Control arms... on 10/18/05 2:22 PM, Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com wrote: >> Is it worth it over getting the steel E36M3 arms > To me No. E30 control arms IMO are weaker than E36 M3 control arms. I would > do it if there was some national championship on the line and the bastard > who's going to beat me has a super light weight car and I could actually use > the 7 lbs savings or whatever these control arms gain you. What Carlos said! Plus if you're doing 6-10 track weekends a year you should plan on replacing those aluminum control arms every couple or three years. Pretty much every year at some school or other I see an E30 M3 control arm failure, typically the inboard ball joint. When I ask myself whether it's a good idea to install these on a car they weren't designed for that weighs several hundred pounds more and that gets pounded around a track on a regular basis I have a hard time coming up with a 'yes' answer. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#4. Question: How much to build a cage? - from Alan Leung
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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 08:56:09 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: Question: How much to build a cage? Can anyone tell me roughly how much it is to build a CR spec cage and what considerations should be taken when doing so? Thanks. Alan 95 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Question: How much to build a cage? - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 10:36:30 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Question: How much to build a cage? >Can anyone tell me roughly how much it is to build a CR spec cage and what >considerations should be taken when doing so? Thanks. I would consider which class you plan on running the car in first. That determines how extreme you can go with the cage. I'm assuming that when you say build a cage you mean a custom welded in cage which is the way to go in my opinion. Prices I would say range from (guessing) $1500-5000 depending on what you want and how much prep work you do up front. For example if you hand over a car that is bare inside (no dash, no sound deadening) you'll save yourself some money vs handing over a car with a nearly full interior. I've also seen guys that have the builder paint the cage/interior to match the exterior of the car which looks awesome but those cages are the ones that push you into the $4K to 5K price tag (for prepared and mod class). A $1500 cage is probably the most basic 6 pt cage for a stock class car. I have certain requirementsf for the cage I'm planning to go with, x-bars on the doors with reinforcements, a dash bar tight to the firewall, a few gussets from the main hoop to the fwd down tubes, rear down tubes into the trunk as well as a rear X, and foot protection with two diagonals back to the fwd down tube. A cage like that can be had for about $2K from someone like Mark McMahan in Akron, OH. Probably slightly more from Fall Line Motorsports in Chicago. I'm not sure how places like TC Design Fab in California compare in prices but I bet they are more than here in the midwest. This of course is for a prepared class car (E30 in my case). What I would suggest is looking at club racer's cars in your area and find one that you like and find out who built it. Other than that have someone who makes cages for Pro series cars/SCCA do yours but make sure you understand the limits of the rules and then make sure they understand them as well. The places I talked about, Mark McMahan, Fall Line, TC Designs, all meet those requirements and build top notch cages. -Carlos.
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Question: How much to build a cage? - from Tom Clark (toclark)
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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:16:12 -0400 From: "Tom Clark (toclark)" <toclark@cisco.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Question: How much to build a cage? Alan, It can vary quite a bit depending on how much of a cage you want and even where you have it done. I've always been quoted "about $1500" when I've asked... Since your in the cities, give Jim Bryant at Apex SPG a call. He knows a guy in the area that builds cages for a lot of the local racers. He and his partner are former NWA mechanics and Jim told me the quality of their work is flawless. Jim's number is 651-735-7400. Reply off the list and let me know how you made out at Sears. Tom Clark -----Original Message----- From: Alan Leung [mailto:alanleung100@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 9:03 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Question: How much to build a cage? Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 08:56:09 -0500 From: "Alan Leung" <alanleung100@hotmail.com> Subject: Question: How much to build a cage? Can anyone tell me roughly how much it is to build a CR spec cage and what considerations should be taken when doing so? Thanks. Alan 95 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. Re: timing chain... - from Steve Klein
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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 12:20:06 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: timing chain... Hi, Bill- I do have both TIS and Bentley, and after consulting Bentley 117-7 again, I hereby declare you a genius and myself a fool. The head wound clouded my judgement, and my original assumption IS correct. I was worried that the crankshaft seal would keep the cover from moving up or down to release pressure from the head gasket, and seeing how much room there was after the crankshaft flange came off means with loosening the oil pan, the timing cover can be lowered and safely separated from both gaskets and re-installed without damage. I'm very giddy right now with this becoming possible again! I've got the tools to re-time the VANOS, and I've been meaning to do so, now the plan is in full force. For the record, I've replaced the tensioner with the 96+ version and the upper chain, lifters sprockets, VANOS unit and upper tensioner, and the primary chain is all that remains. My suspicion for its elongation comes from pinpointing the buzz saw noise to where the return side chain (with possible slack) hits the guide held by the tensioner. Also, this post I ran across over a year ago: <quote> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 15:47:17 -0700 From: "Chris Blumenthal" <blumenthal@aechelon.com> Subject: Re.- Timing chain/valve question After replacing the primary tensioner did not eliminate the noise from the chain, the owner of the shop that did the work for me sent out an inquiry about this problem to the IAIBMWSP, of which he is a member. He received several responses indicating that stretched primary timing chains had been found on S52 (not M52) motors in troubleshooting noisy chain problems. I read the emails myself; it was not suggested that this was a common problem, and the respondents emphasized that they had only see stretched chains on "S" motors. I considered the source of this information to be authoritative, so I had the work done. This was a couple of years ago, and although I think I would have asked, I don't recall what result a comparison of the old and new chains yielded. All I can say is that after the chain was replaced, the noise was gone. Chris Blumenthal </quote> I'm assuming that the S50 is included in what he mentions. Thanks again for pointing out the errors of my assumptions. I'll report within the next few weeks when I attempt to accomplish this again. And if I have any other neat wounds, I'll try to get pics. The funny part about that was, I had on my carbon/kevlar riding gloves so I wouldn't bash my knuckles. Ha. Cheers, Steve On Oct 19, 2005, at 9:40 AM, Townsend, William wrote: > > Hey Steve, > > Do you have the BMW TIS or Bentley? They should both detail the > procedure. I just had my head off and considered doing the same. I see > there is a special BMW tool for pressing the master links in the > timing > chain. Do you have the chain yet?? I would think it is open but did > not > look into this... If you do not have the TIS lemme know and I will > look > what it says. Send me the car info and the last 7 of the VIN so the > TIS > can get the right car... > > Sorry to hear of your troubles. I could not think of much to add to > your > posting since I have never dealt with this before. My one thought was > that for the most part, the timing chain tensioner and the guides make > up for the chain slack. At 88K mine had no wear at all. Guides were > also > hardly even scratched. Even if you thought the chain had streched, you > could just re-time the motor with the special tools most of us on the > list have. Dunno, just a thought. Someone on the list I remember said > their chain need to be replaced but can't remember who.... > > Where do you live??? > > --Bill > 96 M3 coupe > >
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#8. front bumper interchangibility between years and coupe, sedan, and convertible? - from Barrett Nicholas
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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 10:37:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Barrett Nicholas <barrettn@swbell.net> Subject: front bumper interchangibility between years and coupe, sedan, and convertible? Anyone know the interchangibility for the front bumper cover between years and models? I find several part numbers in the online parts catalog, but I'm being told by a salvage yard that the part is the same for any M e36. I caught a retread off a semitruck and it killed my bumper cover, need a new one. Thanks, Barrett
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: timing chain... - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 10:44:17 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: timing chain... Hmmm ... The problem that I would expect to encounter is that the timing chain cover is likely to be positively located by some dowel pins are hard pins in the block ... So the last 3/8" or so of re-installation may be a problem, and may lead to damage of the head gasket. IOW, yes, if you remove those three bolts in the head that are "past" the block, then you should in theory be able to remove the front timing chain after releasing the pan ... but everything works in theory. Also, in my experience, you're unlikely to get a good seal against that lower surface of the gasket, and it will start to leak out of the motor. Nothing terrible, but annoying. I've found that the older big-six motors were worse (there, 4 pieces come together at the same line: block, head, upper timing chain cover and lower timing chain cover) and it's pretty much impossible to get a non-leaking setup without a new gasket and dropping the head onto it. The M3 has only three pieces (because there is no upper timing chain cover), but nonetheless I'm kinda doubtful that you'll get a good seal. I'm now using Toyota's Form-In-Place Gasket (FIPG) when sealing areas like this. It's probably the same as Loctite/Permatex's Right Stuff or whatever it's called. --Andrew -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: timing chain... - from Steve Klein
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Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 12:54:55 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: timing chain... Good stuff. Bentley does indicate two locating dowels to be dealt with, specifically, driven towards the rear to facilitate removal. I've got two new side gaskets, and I'll pay close attention to the re-mating you speak of. I'll get some FIPG as well, so if a few test fits look sketchy, I'll be able to address them. Thanks for the advice! Steve On Oct 19, 2005, at 12:44 PM, Andrew Kalman wrote: > Hmmm ... > > The problem that I would expect to encounter is that the timing > chain cover is likely to be positively located by some dowel pins > are hard pins in the block ... So the last 3/8" or so of re- > installation may be a problem, and may lead to damage of the head > gasket. > > IOW, yes, if you remove those three bolts in the head that are > "past" the block, then you should in theory be able to remove the > front timing chain after releasing the pan ... but everything works > in theory. > > Also, in my experience, you're unlikely to get a good seal against > that lower surface of the gasket, and it will start to leak out of > the motor. Nothing terrible, but annoying. I've found that the > older big-six motors were worse (there, 4 pieces come together at > the same line: block, head, upper timing chain cover and lower > timing chain cover) and it's pretty much impossible to get a non- > leaking setup without a new gasket and dropping the head onto it. > The M3 has only three pieces (because there is no upper timing > chain cover), but nonetheless I'm kinda doubtful that you'll get a > good seal. > > I'm now using Toyota's Form-In-Place Gasket (FIPG) when sealing > areas like this. It's probably the same as Loctite/Permatex's Right > Stuff or whatever it's called. > > --Andrew > > > -- > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com > >