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#1. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 10:44:52 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing >> Yup on some cars that would be true, on the E36 it is not. The E36 >> has ASC >> not DSC. Can someone enlighten me on the differences? Kent
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#2. Clutch R&R - Disassembly - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 13:47:21 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Clutch R&R - Disassembly Finished my long-planned clutch (and UUC flywheel) installation this week. I'm not going to give a full how-to write up; that's why there's Bentley, the TIS, some advice Mike Miller gave in Roundel a few issues ago about greasing the clutch parts, and the Pelican Parts article here: <http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_ Replace.htm> But...here are some things I learned that might help someone else. 1) Working alone and without a lift increases the time required for this job exponentially. I can't tell you how many times I had to get out from under the car to grab tools, to readjust the car's height or attitude (my own attitude was mostly OK) or to reposition the jackstands because one was in my way. 2) I have 2 big Lincoln service jacks, a HF aluminum track jack, 2 pairs of 3-ton jackstands and 1 pair of 2-ton stands. I needed all but one of the small stands, and another big jack wouldn't have hurt. I also needed 4x4" wooden blocks for extra height. 3) I had to raise the front of the engine very aggressively in order to tilt the tail of the transmission down enough to access the upper bell housing bolts. If you have a viscous clutch fan you'll need to take it off so it doesn't hit the radiator. I used an above engine cradle (sits on the fenders) to tilt the engine. You could perhaps jack from below or certainly use an engine crane, but either of those will vary the tilt as the car is jacked. 4) You need a transmission jack. I bought this one from HF: <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178> and it worked very well. You use a ratchet handle to turn the screw/scissors mechanism. This allows precision height adjustment to the millimetre. Support the transmission while removing its bolts. 5) The PP web article says the top bell housing bolts are hard to get to, but doesn't really tell how to do it. Well here's how: push an inspection light up the drivers side of the bell housing to illuminate the bolt area. Fit the 3/8" drive E12 (M10 starter bolts) or E14 (M12 top bolts) sockets to a 3/8" universal joint. Wrap the universal joint with tape so that it doesn't flop. Fit this to a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter, then to 30" or more of 1/2" drive extension (I used a 20" plus about another 12"). Put a breaker bar or a long handle ratchet on the free end. Pass the socket/extension assembly along the top of the transmission. Stuff your head right up into the transmission tunnel until you have a clear line of sight over the transmission to the front bolts. Now guide the socket onto each bolt in turn, make sure the splines are fully engaged, withdraw your head and break the bolts free. Note: Even though the E-torx sockets are both 3/8" drive you can't easily use 3/8" extensions; at this length they twist too much to transfer good breaking force to the bolts. The 1/2" extension is much stiffer. Note: Early cars have non-threaded starters that require you to also to get a wrench onto nuts on the back of the starter under the intake manifold. Good luck with that - you may have to remove the manifold, a major job in itself. 7) By the way, the 4-cylinder engine shown in the PP web article has one more bell housing bolt than the 6-cylinder M3. Go figure. And don't forget the little M6 bolt by the exhaust which comes in from the engine side. 6) There's a boss on the starter which engages to the bell housing and will be stuck due to corrosion. Once the 2 starter bolts are removed, pass your long 1/2 extension over the transmission but without the sockets. Position the blunt end on the starter casting and strike the free end sharply with a mallet. This will pop the starter free. 7) You'll need to use a prybar to break the bell housing free from the engine. There are several gaps in which to insert it. Support the transmission well. In addition to the transmission jack I used two M12 studs (bolts with the heads cut off and slots cut in the ends) which I screwed in where the original Torx bolts had been removed. These served to guide the transmission as it was removed and to add support. It's VERY important not to allow the transmission's weight to hang by the input shaft. 8) Once the transmission was broken free I simultaneously used two prybars, one each side, to push it back. Trying to use just one made the shaft bind, but with two it slid back smoothly. 9) And the pressure plate/clutch/flywheel assembly is revealed! Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD!
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#3. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 10:55:17 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing On Nov 18, 2005, at 10:52 AM, Kent L. Shephard wrote: >>> Yup on some cars that would be true, on the E36 it is not. The E36 >>> has ASC >>> not DSC. > > Can someone enlighten me on the differences? ASC is traction control. It will manage torque and rear wheelspin but throttling the engine or braking both rear wheels. DSC is stability control. It will manage torque and brake single rear wheels to control car attitude. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Stiff steering - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 14:01:06 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Stiff steering At 12:41 PM 11/18/2005, Chester wrote: Big snippage.. >however, you should be able to remove the rusted out retaining clips and >stuff and replace that crap bearing. I packed a lot of grease and then >some to avoid having crap >go in to contaminate again. > >Good luck, >Chester I recently followed a thread on one of the kiddy M3 forums (yo! dude!) where this bearing came up - again as being the primary source of noise at the steering wheel.. Long-story-short - more than one person reported success with squirting heavy oil UP at the bearing from underneath the car (something that sounds better done on a lift - although one "dude" did it from the top using a mirror to locate the bearing.) I imagine something like motorcycle chain-oil might be a good thing to use (has a light solvent in it that allows it to penetrate, and the solvent evaporates leaving grease behind..) Any thoughts? I didn't notice where the posters were from, they may not be from our salt-infested North-East US which probably is harder on the bearings than someplace like CA.. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence: 1998 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S
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#5. RE: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing - from Weston-Lewis, Graeme
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 12:01:49 -0700 From: "Weston-Lewis, Graeme" <GWESTON@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing ASC controls throttle opening (via a secondary throttle body and butterfly) and rear brakes to control rear wheel slip. DSC monitors not just rear wheel slip, but through the use of yaw and steering wheel sensors will brake each wheel as it sees fit to make the car follow the path it thinks you should be travelling based on steering wheel position, yaw sensor output, speed and throttle position. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Kent L. Shephard [mailto:kents@kls-consulting.com] Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 11:52 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 10:44:52 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing >> Yup on some cars that would be true, on the E36 it is not. The E36 >> has ASC >> not DSC. Can someone enlighten me on the differences? Kent ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing - from Gus Iverson
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:05:52 -0800 From: Gus Iverson <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing Next question - which cars have which system? On 11/18/05, Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> wrote: > Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 10:55:17 -0800 > From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 Twitchy E30 and Instructing > > On Nov 18, 2005, at 10:52 AM, Kent L. Shephard wrote: > >>> Yup on some cars that would be true, on the E36 it is not. The E36 > >>> has ASC > >>> not DSC. > > > > Can someone enlighten me on the differences? > > ASC is traction control. It will manage torque and rear wheelspin > but throttling the engine or braking both rear wheels. > > DSC is stability control. It will manage torque and brake single > rear wheels to control car attitude. > > - Mark > ----- > mark@pdc-racing.net
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Clutch R&R - Disassembly - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:06:46 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch R&R - Disassembly > 5) The PP web article says the top bell housing bolts are hard to get to, > but doesn't really tell how to do it. Well here's how: push an inspection > light up the drivers side of the bell housing to illuminate the bolt area. > Fit the 3/8" drive E12 (M10 starter bolts) or E14 (M12 top bolts) sockets to > a 3/8" universal joint. Wrap the universal joint with tape so that it > doesn't flop. Fit this to a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter, then to 30" or more > of 1/2" drive extension (I used a 20" plus about another 12"). Put a breaker > bar or a long handle ratchet on the free end. Pass the socket/extension > assembly along the top of the transmission. Stuff your head right up into > the transmission tunnel until you have a clear line of sight over the > transmission to the front bolts. Now guide the socket onto each bolt in > turn, make sure the splines are fully engaged, withdraw your head and break > the bolts free. > Note: Even though the E-torx sockets are both 3/8" drive you can't easily > use 3/8" extensions; at this length they twist too much to transfer good > breaking force to the bolts. The 1/2" extension is much stiffer. Neil! Glad to see your clutch R&R is done. I was just thinking about it recently about how far along you are with the project. Anyway, about these top bolts, after having dropped a tranny many, many times, I can give you some BTDTs: - We usually jack from under the engine along the front to tilt the engine - Once the engine is tilted, I'm able to put my head where the drive shaft usually is and carry a shop light with me. From here, I can shine the light all the way down towards the front of the tranny and can spot the offensive bolts. My setup consists of a 36" snap-on 3/8" extension that I paid a pretty penny for. Some may laugh at me for spending $60 for an extension, but it has served a useful purpose on this job many times over as well as enable me to change my oil without every lifting the car. Armed with said extension with a 3/8" universal that isn't so worn that it flops around madly and a e-torx bit on the end, I'm able to thread the shaft from behind the tranny along the top of the tranny and hit the bolt head. Once on the head, I can wiggle/rotate the extension a bit and it will engage completely. Then with a nice 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" --> 3/8" reducer, I can break off the offending bolts rather easily. > Note: Early cars have non-threaded starters that require you to also to get > a wrench onto nuts on the back of the starter under the intake manifold. > Good luck with that - you may have to remove the manifold, a major job in > itself. Yeah, I can't even imagine having to do that with the nuts...yuck! O wait...you have a bastard child and might have the nuts instead of the threaded housing! EEK!! Chester
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Stiff steering - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:10:48 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Stiff steering --- Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> wrote: > I recently followed a thread on one of the kiddy M3 forums (yo! dude!) > where this bearing came up - again as being the primary source of > noise at the steering wheel.. > > Long-story-short - more than one person reported success with > squirting heavy oil UP at the bearing from underneath the car > (something that sounds better done on a lift - although one > "dude" did it from the top using a mirror to locate the > bearing.) > > I imagine something like motorcycle chain-oil might be a good > thing to use (has a light solvent in it that allows it to > penetrate, and the solvent evaporates leaving grease > behind..) > > Any thoughts? I didn't notice where the posters were from, they > may not be from our salt-infested North-East US which probably > is harder on the bearings than someplace like CA.. DUDE! Yeah, I think you might have pointed me to that thread. I think that thread was full of junk. I think said dudes were just squirting lube in or something.....drilling access holes and shiet. No thanks! Injecting lube will only mask a probably of a toasted bearing....and believe me, mine was gritty and you rotated the inner race wrt to the outer race. There's no way I would want to keep that bearing in place and just squirt in some oil. To do the job right, you really have to extract the steering column and take that bitch of a bearing out. Chester
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Clutch R&R - Disassembly - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:17:35 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch R&R - Disassembly Chester. Re: >Some may laugh at me for spending $60 for an extension, but it has >served a useful purpose on this job many times over as well as enable me to >change my oil without every lifting the car. None of us members of the Church of Amassing Tools Collections will ever laugh at you for this. We understand. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#10. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Clutch R&R - Disassembly - from marco
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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:20:33 -0800 From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Clutch R&R - Disassembly Great write-up - only thing I would add is a impact wrench makes getting the starter bolts on the early cars out fairly easy. Starting the bolts onto the nuts is another story - what I did was use some super glue to hold the nuts in place, CAREFULLY started the starter bolts, and then snugged them down with the impact wrench set to it's lowest setting. I've done it once on my back, in the paddock at Thill in 100 degree weather. It's much easier on a lift in an A/Ced garage ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 10:52 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Clutch R&R - Disassembly Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 13:47:21 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Clutch R&R - Disassembly Finished my long-planned clutch (and UUC flywheel) installation this week. I'm not going to give a full how-to write up; that's why there's Bentley, the TIS, some advice Mike Miller gave in Roundel a few issues ago about greasing the clutch parts, and the Pelican Parts article here: <http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_ Replace.htm>