E36M3 #4561

Monday, November 21, 2005 13:42:27

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Rear shock mounts - from j. helffrich
#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
#3. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts - from Jay Hudson
#4. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts - from Jim Bassett
#5. "Chuckling" sort of noise from rear? - from Don Eilenberger
#6. Re: [E36M3] How long will you keep your E36M3? - from Jim Bassett
#7. RE: Stiff steering - from Michael, Dave
#8. Radiator at 96K - from Kent L. Shephard
#9. Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K - from Jim Bassett
#10. Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K - from Kent L. Shephard
#11. Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K - from Kent L. Shephard

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#1. Rear shock mounts - from j. helffrich
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 10:21:00 -0800 (PST) From: "j. helffrich" <girolamous@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear shock mounts Hi All, Thanks to Alan, Jay and Carlos for the various replies on the stainless brake lines--Goodrich and UUC came up as the best for the money. While there, I am going to replace the rear shock mounts since I hear a subtle rattle when going over bumps on the back wheels. Looking at Ireland, JT Designs and Ground Control...all three are urethane. Any recommendations there? Thanks, Jerry Jerry Helffrich __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 13:35:15 -0500 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts Ground Control, I have removed the JTD ones from 3 cars that I've owned now and either pitched them or resold them if they were in OK shape. Most of the time I had to remove the rusted little center tube from the shock shaft which is one reason I don't like them. -Carlos.

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts - from Jay Hudson
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 10:39:52 -0800 From: "Jay Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts I'm a GC kinda guy. Good stuff. Jay > Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 10:21:00 -0800 (PST) > From: "j. helffrich" <girolamous@yahoo.com> > Subject: Rear shock mounts > > > Hi All, > Thanks to Alan, Jay and Carlos for the various > replies on the stainless brake lines--Goodrich and UUC > came up as the best for the money. While there, I am > going to replace the rear shock mounts since I hear a > subtle rattle when going over bumps on the back > wheels. Looking at Ireland, JT Designs and Ground > Control...all three are urethane. Any recommendations > there? > > Thanks, > Jerry > > Jerry Helffrich > > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 10:47:53 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear shock mounts On Mon, November 21, 2005 10:21 am, j. helffrich said: > Looking at Ireland, JT Designs and Ground > Control...all three are urethane. Any recommendations > there? I have JTD ones in both cars and have had no issues. Rogue Engineering also makes 'em, and they are a list sponsor. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP

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#5. "Chuckling" sort of noise from rear? - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 13:55:33 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: "Chuckling" sort of noise from rear? Put on semi-winter-snows-sorta on Saturday (Pirelli P-Zero-Nero M&S on original '95 Motorsport rims..) and I'm not certain if jacking the car up did something, or if my old tires were SO noisy and hard that I just missed it - but I seem to have a new noise. The P-Zero-Nero is much smoother over the small bumps than the old tires were (Yoko's front PS2-M/S's rear..) It doesn't feel as connected as the old tires. They're also 235/47/17 all around on 7.5" rims.. but I digress.. Noise is a fairly quiet sort of knocking sound. It isn't related directly to bumps, more to chassis shudder (it's a convertible and they do that..) Seems to go away on corners. Makes it even on relatively smooth roads (if any road in NJ can be considered smooth..) I'd almost make it for exhaust knocking, except wiggling the exhaust from the back end - I can't get any knocking (and it really doesn't wiggle a whole lot..) Since I have no stick-shift drivers around me, I can't get in the back and try localizing it. The shocks (and front struts) were done about 3 months ago (the Monroe Sensatrac..), and I checked the RSM's last night (easy to do on a convertible.. they're right in the top compartment..) and they looked fine. I had put in new E46/M3 ones when I did the shocks. My thoughts are: Rear-Trailing-Arm-Bushings? Can anyone give me a clue as to how to check - they are original at 88k.. I can see how these might tighten up under cornering forces I think.. Subframe mounts? When I had it jacked up (floor jack under the jacking point) I looked in - and could see one subframe mount (front left one?) - it appeared when jacked up to have about 1/8" of space between the bottom washer and the carrier.. Normal? (I know - shoulda taken a picture..) Rear ball-joints? Any thoughts? BTW - I thought of trying to bounce the rear up and down to see if I could localize the noise - but I can't get more than about 1" out of it.. I haven't tried sitting in the trunk yet - but trying to push it down it just doesn't move. Front I can move a few inches - rear.. nope. Normal? Abbynormal? TIA.. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence: 1998 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S

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#6. Re: [E36M3] How long will you keep your E36M3? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 11:01:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How long will you keep your E36M3? On Fri, November 18, 2005 8:11 pm, Boen168@aol.com said: > Bought my '95 Cosmos Schwatz/black (10/95 production) new in Jan. '06 > with > 31 miles. Current mileage reads 222,383 miles at this writing. Nice! I picked my M3 with 99 miles on it in Sept 1998, and currently have ~161,600 miles on it. Been through pretty much every known E36/E36 M3 issue (in some cases, multiple times :-)). Needs a ring job due to oil consumption, probably get to that some time later next year. Bought it when we started talking about have a kid (sold the '96 328is), brought Nik home from the hospital in it, he's been giggling in the back seat ever since :-) I'm planning on hanging on to it for a while. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP

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#7. RE: Stiff steering - from Michael, Dave
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 14:02:45 -0500 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: RE: Stiff steering Hi Stan From what I have gathered, the problem can/is caused by one of three things 1. Rusty/dirty "lower steering shaft bearing" 2. Gummy, dirty ps fluid 3. bad servotronic steering speed sensor 4. bad pump I will try replacing the fluid and lubing the bearing (not tearing the column part and replacing it) I will let you know Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: Stan Shaw [mailto:Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net] > Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 11:05 AM > To: Michael, Dave > Cc: E36M3 > Subject: Re: Stiff steering > > > Hi Dave, > > I have recently replaced my steering rack (due to some > "slack" in the steering), and the end result was stiffer steering. > > Bizarrely (at least to me) is that the "no return to center" > started occurring just before I changed the rack, so I have > been suspecting the pump as well. So I have both symptoms > that you do, and the rack was just replaced. > > I was wondering if the rebuilt rack just needed some time to break in. > > Perhaps the pump is another component likely in need of > replacement at 150k+ miles (in my case). The pump being a > @$300 part is something I haven't replaced yet. > > I am interested in other's experience. > > Regards, > Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net > Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 > Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ > 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ > 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ > > "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams > > >

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#8. Radiator at 96K - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 10:46:23 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Radiator at 96K Hi, Quick question. I know the radiator is a consumable on an E36. Mine appears to be leaking from the tank area on the drivers side. Dealer wants $400 (obviously smoking crack!). What's the best price folks have seen. I don't track the car so spening $600 for an aluminum radiator is not an reasonable option. Kent

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 11:17:30 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K On Mon, November 21, 2005 11:11 am, Kent L. Shephard said: > Quick question. Quick answer. :-) > I know the radiator is a consumable on an E36. Correct. > Mine appears to be leaking from the tank area on the drivers side. > Dealer wants $400 (obviously smoking crack!). Parts only, or parts + install? > What's the best price folks have seen. IIRC, $250-$280 neighborhood for the S54 M Coupe one. You're in the SF Bay Area, IIRC? Call Ramon at Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas. I get nearly all of my BMW parts from him, as well as have work done there. But even if you were going to DIY, give him a call and see what he can do for you. Jim Bassett I don't track the car so spening > $600 for an aluminum radiator is not an reasonable option. > > Kent > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 11:34:01 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K >> Mine appears to be leaking from the tank area on the drivers side. >> Dealer wants $400 (obviously smoking crack!). > > Parts only, or parts + install? > Part only!!!! >> What's the best price folks have seen. > > IIRC, $250-$280 neighborhood for the S54 M Coupe one. I forgot about the S54 option. I was going to buy a plain vanilla replacement. I found the stock one at Bimmerworld cheap but they don't have the S54. > > You're in the SF Bay Area, IIRC? Call Ramon at Bavarian Motorsport in > Milpitas. I get nearly all of my BMW parts from him, as well as have work > done there. But even if you were going to DIY, give him a call and see > what he can do for you. > I'll call him. I'm going to do the replacemnt myself. I did the hoses, thermostat, etc. Radiator looks like a 1 hour job. Bad part is that I need to buy new coolant. I just put that stuff in about 3 months ago. Kent

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#11. Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 11:40:18 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radiator at 96K Anybody know of a good source for the S54 M Coupe radiator???????/ > Parts only, or parts + install? > >> What's the best price folks have seen. > > IIRC, $250-$280 neighborhood for the S54 M Coupe one. > > You're in the SF Bay Area, IIRC? Call Ramon at Bavarian Motorsport in > Milpitas. I get nearly all of my BMW parts from him, as well as have work > done there. But even if you were going to DIY, give him a call and see > what he can do for you. > Ramon is out until Friday. > Jim Bassett >

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