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#1. RE: [E36M3] Brake Replacement - from Alexander Fadeev
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 14:52:04 -0500 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <afadeev@smu.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake Replacement Spencer Fong [mailto:sk99m3@comcast.net] write: > > I'm planning to replace my brakes (discs, pads, fluid), but have a > couple of questions: Spencer, Are you sure both your rotors and pads are all worn out? Pads wear way quicker than rotors. Fronts wear way faster than rears. You can measure each component and replace them one axle/type at a time as needed (i.e.: 4 front pads, 2 rear rotors, etc). It is highly unlikely that you need 4 rotors and 8 pads all at once, though your friendly "service advisor" might lead you to believe otherwise. > 1. Is caliper rebuilding a normal part of the process or only if I > see a leak? Short answer: no. Long answer: you most certainly do not have a leak. However, the brake caliper outer dust shields (~$10/axle) do tend to work themselves out of position and expose the piston to moisture/sand. THEN you want to "rebuild" the caliper seals as that is the only way to get the outer dust shields back in place. IIRC, Bentley has an appropriate chapter for this procedure, with picture. Compare what you see on your calipers to what is shown in Bentley and you'll be able to determine if you need to "rebuild" your calipers, or not. > 2. Should I order the "caliper bushing kit"? These aren't the brass > upgrades, but the stock pieces. Nope. Hope this helps, alex f
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#2. RE: Oil intake / HFM - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 11:54:14 -0800 (PST) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: RE: Oil intake / HFM > From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> > (FWIW, my 163K-mile M3 is using ~1qt every 600 miles or so, and is due for > a bottom-end rebuild - I'd be happy with your consumption. :-)) With that kind of consumption, you never have to change the oil, just throw on a new filter at your prescribed interval... :-) Later, Rich
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#3. Brake Replacement - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 11:56:39 -0800 (PST) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: Brake Replacement > From: sk99m3@comcast.net (Spencer Fong) > > I'm planning to replace my brakes (discs, pads, fluid), but have a couple of questions: > > 1. Is caliper rebuilding a normal part of the process or only if I see a leak? If the caliper is leaking or the boots or seals are torn or excessively worn. > 2. Should I order the "caliper bushing kit"? These aren't the brass upgrades, but the stock pieces. Not a bad idea, they are cheap enough and easy to replace. Definitely do if you are rebuilding the calipers. How many miles on your calipers? Usage? Regards, Rich
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Brake Replacement - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 15:03:13 -0500 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Replacement >I'm planning to replace my brakes (discs, pads, fluid), but have a couple of questions: >1. Is caliper rebuilding a normal part of the process or only if I see a leak? I do if there's a torn boot on the piston, or also if the piston doesn't slide freely but out of the 20-30 calipers I've rebuilt only once was an E36 M3 piston seized (on an Ohio car that might've seen winter driving). The 2nd time it was on my E30 325is (w/ 260,000 miles) just for reference. >2. Should I order the "caliper bushing kit"? These aren't the brass upgrades, but the stock pieces. I wouldn't bother unless you suspect that your other ones are severely worn. -Carlos 98 M3 w/Stoptech brakes and rebuilt stock rear brakes 88 325is w/rebuilt calipers all around 89 325i w/completely stock brakes
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Window Problem - '97 Coupe - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 14:05:09 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Window Problem - '97 Coupe Hi, I know it's funny. I happen to be an EE also. I currently design GSM cell chips. Anyway, the probability of simutaneous failure is very low. Not to impossible, but improbable. But since the auto down feature doesn't work on either window we know it's in a fuse, relay, or broken wire somewhere. I suspect a relay. Kent Jim Bassett wrote: > On Wed, December 14, 2005 10:59 am, Kent L. Shephard said: >> Not the window switches (both wouldn't fail at the same time). > > ROTFLMAO! > > Yeah, you're right, that could NEVER happen <bg>. > > Jim Bassett - Electrical Engineer, knows better > > P.S. My Bentley manual is at home as well, no real help :-) > > -- "Dissent is the highest form of patriotism" - Thomas Jefferson "It has become appallingly obvious that our technology has exceeded our humanity." - Albert Einstein
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#6. Stock Class Legal Camber Plates - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 18:39:02 EST From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Stock Class Legal Camber Plates Hello Group, Bob Kobayashi here (_rfkoby@aol.com_ (mailto:rfkoby@aol.com) ) yes, I made the camber plates. Uses Stock strut bearing, in stock location [for 96+ m3], and 95 M3's also. I noticed the someone mentioned using shims, this can be done to fine tune and balance, but not for large changes since will affect your wheel-tire to strut clearance. Camber plates are still available. I just have to make sure I have the hardware still in stock. These are done in small batch runs. $125 per set includes hardware, instructions, and standard UPS shipping. Let me know who is interested, and what type 95M3, or 96+M3. Bob
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Window Problem - '97 Coupe - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:16:33 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Window Problem - '97 Coupe Kent, If they're both not working, I'd try reinitialising the windows. The procedure is in the manual, but I vaguely recall something about winding the window down, then up, and holding the switch for 10 seconds or so. HTH, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 On Dec 14, 2005, at 2:49 PM, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 10:51:11 -0800 (PST) > From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Window Problem - '97 Coupe > > Ooops!!! > It's both. Not a motor problem. It's definitely a relay/fuse type > issue. > Not the window switches (both wouldn't fail at the same time). > > Kent
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#8. Brake Replacement - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 21:39:23 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Brake Replacement Spencer, Hello. You only need to rebuild your calipers if the rubber boots are ripped. When I first heard "rebuild the caliper" I thought WOW, this must be a VERY complex process... The kit contains 1 rubber ring (fits inside of the calper housing), and the rubber boot that fits between the lower half of the piston and the housing. Over time the rubber gets old and brittle, or is overheated by track use and will eventaully rip. If this happens, you want to do the rebuild as fast as possible. Because if water gets onto the smooth side surfaces of the piston, it will cause rust, and perhaps a "frozen" caliper. The caliper bushing kit is probably the rubber boots that the caliper retaining screws go into.. Same thing, if the boots are not cracked, I would leave them alone.. Hope this helps Mo 98 M3/4 95 M3 - Still at the cage builders... 2 more weeks! 91 325IX - Loving the snow! 89 325i - potential track car, but now for sale 83 323i - Also for sale. -------------------- 11 -------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 19:38:06 +0000 From: sk99m3@comcast.net (Spencer Fong) Subject: Brake Replacement I'm planning to replace my brakes (discs, pads, fluid), but have a couple of questions: 1. Is caliper rebuilding a normal part of the process or only if I see a leak? 2. Should I order the "caliper bushing kit"? These aren't the brass upgrades, but the stock pieces. Thanks. -spencer '99M3 80k miles
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Stock Class Camber plates (was Re: tires) - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 09:37:39 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stock Class Camber plates (was Re: tires) James, After swapping the hats, I was able to get -3.5 camber on the front without the need for any shims. I want a fixed camber plate with heck even 2 settings. One at -3.5 with slight toe out (when I get it aligned) and the other to bring it back to say -1~ territory with whatever toe in it brings with it (from my understanding more camber without adjusting toe leads to toe out and vice versa). At present I burn through inside tires quite frequently. Even though its not a daily driver, the car still sees the streets (to and from the track, to DE, autox/car control clinics, to the shop and back) Thanks, Ahmad -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 11:16:24 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stock Class Camber plates (was Re: tires) We have a $24 camber shim set that allows you to dial in the actual needed amount. Combine with the swapped 96+ hats and you should be set. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com http://www.bimmerworldracing.com http://www.powerflexusa.com Engineered BMW Performance 877.639.9648
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#10. Front Control Arms - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 09:43:46 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Front Control Arms Group, I will be replacing my control arms (front) since its been a little over 2 years and the car sees a lot of track (safety rather than any performance gains -if any- here). At present I have the E30 Aluminum ones on my car. Under the I Stock rules, I cannot use these anyways. While looking at the E36 M3 steel ones, I also came across the regular 3 series control arms. Called up a few sources and was told "you can definitely run the regular E36 arms on your M3, infact lot of people actually do" The part numbers are different. I would like to know what 'real' difference is between the two (Regular E36 arms vs. M3 arms). NOTE: Safety is a priority, so if the M3 ones by any chance are stronger/sturdier I would go with them. But if the real difference between the E36 regular and the M3 control arms is just tiny bit of weight, I couldn't care less. Is anyone out there running the standard arm on the M3? Thanks in advance. Ahmad
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#11. Re: Brake replacement - from Marc Plante
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Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 09:57:13 -0500 From: Marc Plante <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Brake replacement Caliper rebuilding is typically done when the rubber boots around the piston tear or melt (They melt with track use). Your guides should be OK for now. look for rot in the rubber and binding of the pins. The brass upgrades are more of a performance nuance. The stock rubber ones will be fine when the time comes unless you're tracking the car a lot. Marc Plante E36 M3/4