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#1. Help With Flash Codes / New VANOS - from Michael Wylie
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Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 13:14:55 -0800 From: "Michael Wylie" <mdwylie@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Help With Flash Codes / New VANOS Okay, I'm stumped. Installed a new VANOS using Bentley, Internet and the Pelican references. Used all the special tools to lock the crank and cams, and tension the primary chain. Obsessively ensured the secondary sprockets were properly positioned (clockwise) and the VANOS was pushed into the housing prior to installation. Runs great when cold, far less VANOS noise, however runs poorly when warmer (stumbles, hunting idle, speed too low, exhaust fumes) .... AND ... I have the check engine light on. I tried fifteen times using all the Bentley and Internet references to get the flash codes to display with "negative results". I'd be grateful for any insights on this problem or tricks to get the flash codes to display. Regards... Mike Novato, CA 95 M3 (10/94 production) 03 525
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#2. RE: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam - from Matthew Teel
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Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 12:26:38 -0900 From: Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam The screwdriver trick worked fine. My tired eyes didn't notice the tray was extended. Seems to be working fine now, so I guess I'll just fly it and watch it. Thanks Zack! -Matthew -----Original Message----- From: Zack Steinkamp [mailto:thenobot@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 10:40 AM To: Matthew Teel; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam I encountered a similar problem while working on a friend's X5. If you slide the door of the changer open, and look to the side of the cartridge where the trays slide out into the player mechanism, you will probably see one tray that is "in use" -- pulled out into the player part of the changer. If you use a small flathead screwdriver to try to push the edge of the tray back into the cartridge, you may be able to use the eject button to get the cartridge back out. You don't have to push the tray all the way back in, just jimmying it worked for me. It took me 4-5 tries before it ejected. -zs --- Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> wrote: > Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 10:11:36 -0900 > From: Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> > Subject: CD Changer Jam > > Help! > > I loaded some new CDs into my changer cartridge, inserted into the > changer and then I received a CD ERROR message. > > Now the cartridge won't eject. I can hear the motor attempting an > eject but nothing is happening. The cartridge is inserted correctly. > > Any idea how to manually eject a cartridge? > > Thanks in advance, > > Matthew > 98 M3/4 > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport > http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing > http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. > http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam - from Michael Michalski
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Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:43:52 -0600 From: "Michael Michalski" <m.michalski@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam Isn't this list AWESOME! :-) If history has taught me something it's that I can expect this to happen to me personally in the next few days (seems to always happen that way). Now I know how to fix it. I also say thanks Zack. Michael Michalski 97 ///M3 Windy City (still at the dealership, long story) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Teel" <mteel@beluga.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 3:28 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam > Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 12:26:38 -0900 > From: Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam > > The screwdriver trick worked fine. My tired eyes didn't notice the tray > was > extended. > > Seems to be working fine now, so I guess I'll just fly it and watch it. > > Thanks Zack! > > -Matthew > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Zack Steinkamp [mailto:thenobot@yahoo.com] > Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 10:40 AM > To: Matthew Teel; E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] CD Changer Jam > > I encountered a similar problem while working on a friend's X5. > > If you slide the door of the changer open, and look to the side of the > cartridge where the trays slide out into the player mechanism, you will > probably see one tray that is "in use" -- pulled out into the player part > of > the changer. If you use a small flathead screwdriver to try to push the > edge of the tray back into the cartridge, you may be able to use the eject > button to get the cartridge back out. You don't have to push the tray all > the way back in, just jimmying it worked for me. It took me 4-5 tries > before it ejected. > > -zs > > --- Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> wrote: > >> Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 10:11:36 -0900 >> From: Matthew Teel <mteel@beluga.com> >> Subject: CD Changer Jam >> >> Help! >> >> I loaded some new CDs into my changer cartridge, inserted into the >> changer and then I received a CD ERROR message. >> >> Now the cartridge won't eject. I can hear the motor attempting an >> eject but nothing is happening. The cartridge is inserted correctly. >> >> Any idea how to manually eject a cartridge? >> >> Thanks in advance, >> >> Matthew >> 98 M3/4 >> >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our >> sponsors: >> >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport >> http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance >> http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing >> http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. >> http://www.elephantmotorsports.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> >> >> > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Bolt In - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 20:05:22 -0500 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Bolt In >Weld in cages are the thing to do for the classes beyond stock mostly for >the ability to start attaching the cage to more points, different points, >etc. Semi agree, more later. >In stock class we cannot weld in the cage to the rear strut towers and >secondly you cannot start welding the pieces in because you will burn stuff >(BTW you cannot remove the headliner in the Stock class either). OK first yeah you can't go into the trunk panel but welding to the strut towers is a bit questionable anyway in the traditional way people do it. Look at tc-designs web page and see how Mark Dadgar's car is done in that area (Hi Mark), that's the way to go IMO but perhaps being a little more reserved in case an SCCA official is really strict (given that an E36 M3 isn't an SCCA classed car in prepared form so no worries, ITE does not have to meet Improved Touring's strict rules). As to welded in cages for stock, all my friends that race stock class have them, no real reason not to. Understand that the welding is not all done inside the car. For an area near the headliner I can see tack welding the tubes in place and then finish the all around weld outside of the car. There's a bit of trial and error when fitting and constructing a cage. Even experienced folks like Mr. McMahan have had to redo a few things. When my friend Ben's cage was done he put it so close to the roof panel that it was bulging out so Mark had to trim back the main hoop. Now I'm not a cage builder or pretend to know everything but just imagine how in the world some of those welds are in there if you can't even fit a zip tie thru certain places? I always picture great big holes in the floor (where the base plates will be) and the cage being pushed up from below, the base plates then go into place and the final welding is done to all the bottom attachment points. Perhaps Mr. Siccardi can comment since he is a cage builder. Jon a little help? :-) Carlos 98 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Bolt In - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 21:28:12 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bolt In On Jan 7, 2006, at 5:08 PM, Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com wrote: > OK first yeah you can't go into the trunk panel but welding to the > strut > towers is a bit questionable anyway in the traditional way people > do it. > Look at tc-designs web page and see how Mark Dadgar's car is done > in that > area (Hi Mark), that's the way to go IMO but perhaps being a little > more > reserved in case an SCCA official is really strict (given that an > E36 M3 > isn't an SCCA classed car in prepared form so no worries, ITE does > not have > to meet Improved Touring's strict rules). Actually, that rear cage design is built to the letter of the SCCA IT rules. BMW CR occasionally has a stricter interpretation, depending who's looking at it, but the reality is that I called the BMW CR National Tech Steward when we built the cage and he said "Just follow the IT rules and you will be fine." - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#6. best pricing on factory parts - from Soracing@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 22:24:49 EST From: Soracing@aol.com Subject: best pricing on factory parts I'm looking to replace the heater valve on my 95 M3 and probably the heater hoses and some miscellaneous other items at the same time. Whomever I buy from will get quite a lot of business from me. I am looking to the group for your experiences and suggestions. Thanks in advance Steve O'Blenes
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#7. Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata - from Walter J
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Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 11:10:05 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata Well, after mulling over whether to buy vs. build a race car I have made the absolute wrong choice and decided to build it myself. My interior is black with manual no-heat vaders, HK sound, basic OBC etc... its a 98 so its got side air bags and rear headrests. Everything is in superb shape and still in the car. I'll be taking pics (been saying that for about a month but I mean it this time) as soon as I can remember to procure the digi cam from the mrs. Everything I can legally remove for BMWCCA IP is up for sale. The car is located in PA and I have a pickup truck if someone needs a delivery for seats, etc. in a resonable circumference around the Scranton Wilkes-Barre area or Mount Laurel, NJ... or somewhere between. This is usually easy to talk me into if A) you have a cool car for me to oogle B) Offset the gas in the price of the item by not playing hardball with the delivery guy when negotiating price C) You do not live in Camden. Also available are trunk lining, stock springs, sways, some cats w/ 35k on them, AC components, traction ctrl components and whatever else I can unbolt or cut off. I have two sets of factory wheels that must go to fetch something lighter - 4 8.5x17 10 spokes. Painted flat black and used for the fat sticky track rubber - 4 7.5x17 10 spokes. In decent shape, 1 excellent, 1 good, 1 average and 1 scuffed up. Shod with 50% used RA-1s I have a set of 38ET 16" Fittipaldi 5 spokes. Only 2 are good - 2 are bent, would need repair and probably not worth it but if you just need 2 to get over the front brakes for 16" snow tires (that is what I used them for combined with a pair of OE 16s from my 328) then give me $50 and they are yours. I have a set of 4 perfect 15" Borbet type T wheels that were bought as snow wheels for my 328is but never saw duty. I mounted the tires and then sold the car , unmounted the tires and put them on my wifes car. $200 for the set. I haven't quite thought thru a price list yet but if someone needs something - make an offer - it saves me the hassle of eBay. Preference goes to locals but I'll ship if the buyer doesn't care (and mind paying for) that I'm just going to go to the UPS store and tell them to box it up. The car has to be at the cage builder by 2nd or 3rd week of Feb so I'll be making haste here shortly to get it stripped - but the parts are still in the car - please indicate your level of patience for slow delivery. -- Walter
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#8. Invisible Coolant?? - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 08:44:20 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Invisible Coolant?? Monday morning prayer: "Please lord, let this just be a really inexpensive fluke." I started the car up this morning with a "low coolant" message to start my day. Shut it down, got out and checked and... what's this? NO coolant??? Based on the head gasket issues on my old motor a few months back, I immediatly checked the oil cap... All looks normal. Checked the oil level and it was a bit low from a recent weekend at Laguna Seca, but it looked proper and smelled like petroleum products. No mirky coolant or smell in the mix. Somewhat of a relief, but there's no noticeable leaks either. The car's been sitting since Friday evening, when it was running fine, and there was nothing under the car at all. I don't assume coolant evaporates in a couple of days. When the car was running this morning, it sounded normal and there was no steam coming from the exhaust. Where's my coolant? Any suggestions? My first thought is to fill it up and see what happens if I drive it into work tomorrow (14 miles). Car is a '99 3.2L with 157K miles, but the motor has about 57K miles. Jonathan L.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 10:29:20 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl HI, I don't race, but I do have the JTD underpanel on my car. From the rules posted, I don't see a problem. It is definetly forward of the fron wheels. It actually comes nowhere near the center line of the front wheels which is what I conclude to mean front axle. It stops shy of the front anti-sway bar. It meets the letter of the rule and I also think spirit. It's also safer than the stock stuff. The plastic bits of the stock underpanel will come off with the slightest impact leaving debis on the track. Not so with the JTD panel. If you ask me, it should be a required upgrade to race, just like a cage. Kent Bruce wrote: > Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 19:06:46 -0600 > From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl > > Correction... > > However, as long as the JTD panel is no larger than the stock plastic > parts > I don't see why it would NOT be legal. > > -- Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters. -- Daniel Webster
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#10. Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl - from Bruce H
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Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 19:28:52 +0000 From: gobuffs93@comcast.net (Bruce H) Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl The "in front of the front axle" rule that people keep quoting only applies to Mod class. It does not apply to stock and prepared. Bruce -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> > HI, > > I don't race, but I do have the JTD underpanel on my car. > From the rules posted, I don't see a problem. > > It is definetly forward of the fron wheels. It actually comes nowhere near > the center line of the front wheels which is what I conclude to mean front > axle. > > It stops shy of the front anti-sway bar. > It meets the letter of the rule and I also think spirit. > It's also safer than the stock stuff. The plastic bits of the stock > underpanel will come off > with the slightest impact leaving debis on the track. Not so with the JTD > panel. > > If you ask me, it should be a required upgrade to race, just like a cage. > > Kent > > Bruce wrote: > > Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 19:06:46 -0600 > > From: "Bruce" > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl > > > > Correction... > > > > However, as long as the JTD panel is no larger than the stock plastic > > parts > > I don't see why it would NOT be legal. > > > > > > > -- > Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. > It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the > people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages > who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good > masters, but they mean to be masters. -- Daniel Webster > >
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#11. Several suspension questions - from Matt Weimer
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Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 18:00:27 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> Subject: Several suspension questions Hello Group, I have several questions before starting into the renovation of the suspension on my 112k M3. First, I need to state that this is my first E36 after owning many E30's, several 2002's and E21's (with an E28 thrown in for good measure). Number one on my list is a refresh of the various suspension bushings since all are original and some are very, very tired...RTAB's for example. What other pieces should I replace "while I'm in there" doing the RTAB's? I am not against dropping the entire subframe and replacing every bushing, in fact this would be a normal procedure for me on an E30 at this mileage/age. The car also has Bilsteins which seem poorly matched to the stock springs. For lack of better words it is very bouncy. Yes, the bump stop issue has been corrected up front so the brutal crashing is gone over sharp bumps, etc....something just feels mis-matched. Any comments or recommendations for a spring/shock combo are appreciated. This car will see mostly street use, however I do not want/expect the ride of a Cadillac. Koni's and H&R OE sport springs? Simple Coil-over's such as a PSS9 kit? Too many newbie questions? Sorry. All input is appreciated. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter '88 325iS '95 M3 __________________________________________ Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com