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#1. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata - from marco
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Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 23:46:30 -0800 From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata Ok. is there any way I can talk you out of this? Do you know at best if you ever decide to sell your soon to be race car after you've turned it from a perfectly good street car into a car only you can love, you'll get 20 cents for every dollar you put into it? If you know all that then go for it. Honestly I've enjoyed every minute I've spent turning my car into a racecar. But when I do the math on what I could have done with the $$ I shudder. Consider buying one of these. You'll save a ton of money and time, and if you want to tinker you still can customize it all you want. http://www.bmwccaclubracing.com/static/forsale/forsale.htm Have fun and hope to see you at the track someday. Marco $100K DM worth maybe $20K -----Original Message----- From: Walter J [mailto:m3gtr@adelphia.net] Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 10:41 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 11:10:05 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata Well, after mulling over whether to buy vs. build a race car I have made the absolute wrong choice and decided to build it myself. My interior is black with manual no-heat vaders, HK sound, basic OBC etc... its a 98 so its got side air bags and rear headrests. Everything is in superb shape and still in the car. I'll be taking pics (been saying that for about a month but I mean it this time) as soon as I can remember to procure the digi cam from the mrs. Everything I can legally remove for BMWCCA IP is up for sale. The car is located in PA and I have a pickup truck if someone needs a delivery for seats, etc. in a resonable circumference around the Scranton Wilkes-Barre area or Mount Laurel, NJ... or somewhere between. This is usually easy to talk me into if A) you have a cool car for me to oogle B) Offset the gas in the price of the item by not playing hardball with the delivery guy when negotiating price C) You do not live in Camden. Also available are trunk lining, stock springs, sways, some cats w/ 35k on them, AC components, traction ctrl components and whatever else I can unbolt or cut off. I have two sets of factory wheels that must go to fetch something lighter - 4 8.5x17 10 spokes. Painted flat black and used for the fat sticky track rubber - 4 7.5x17 10 spokes. In decent shape, 1 excellent, 1 good, 1 average and 1 scuffed up. Shod with 50% used RA-1s I have a set of 38ET 16" Fittipaldi 5 spokes. Only 2 are good - 2 are bent, would need repair and probably not worth it but if you just need 2 to get over the front brakes for 16" snow tires (that is what I used them for combined with a pair of OE 16s from my 328) then give me $50 and they are yours. I have a set of 4 perfect 15" Borbet type T wheels that were bought as snow wheels for my 328is but never saw duty. I mounted the tires and then sold the car , unmounted the tires and put them on my wifes car. $200 for the set. I haven't quite thought thru a price list yet but if someone needs something - make an offer - it saves me the hassle of eBay. Preference goes to locals but I'll ship if the buyer doesn't care (and mind paying for) that I'm just going to go to the UPS store and tell them to box it up. The car has to be at the cage builder by 2nd or 3rd week of Feb so I'll be making haste here shortly to get it stripped - but the parts are still in the car - please indicate your level of patience for slow delivery. -- Walter ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl - from Tom Melton
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 05:44:26 -0500 From: "Tom Melton" <Tom.Melton@emoryhealthcare.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl Bruce. "a. Spoilers and splitters are free providing they do not exceed maximum body width and do not extend rearwards past the front axle centerline. Installed devices must be consistent with the spirit of the original design of the car such as those presented by aftermarket sources. For example, homemade panels attached to the car would not conform to the spirit of the original design unless they emulate such a part, such as splitter panel. Dive plates are prohibited." That is from the Stock section concerning "Spoilers, Splitters, Airdams and Wings" on page 27 of the 2006 Final rules. Umm, if the JTD panel can be construed as part of the splitter, then even stock can use the rule. -Tom >>> Bruce H <gobuffs93@comcast.net> 1/10/2006 1:42 AM >>> Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 19:28:52 +0000 From: gobuffs93@comcast.net (Bruce H) Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl The "in front of the front axle" rule that people keep quoting only applies to Mod class. It does not apply to stock and prepared. Bruce -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> > HI, > > I don't race, but I do have the JTD underpanel on my car. > From the rules posted, I don't see a problem. > > It is definetly forward of the fron wheels. It actually comes nowhere near > the center line of the front wheels which is what I conclude to mean front > axle. > > It stops shy of the front anti-sway bar. > It meets the letter of the rule and I also think spirit. > It's also safer than the stock stuff. The plastic bits of the stock > underpanel will come off > with the slightest impact leaving debis on the track. Not so with the JTD > panel. > > If you ask me, it should be a required upgrade to race, just like a cage. > > Kent > > Bruce wrote: > > Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 19:06:46 -0600 > > From: "Bruce" > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Underpanl > > > > Correction... > > > > However, as long as the JTD panel is no larger than the stock plastic > > parts > > I don't see why it would NOT be legal. > > > > > > > -- > Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. > It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the > people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages > who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good > masters, but they mean to be masters. -- Daniel Webster > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. RE: Invisible Coolant?? - from M540
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 07:13:15 -0500 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: Invisible Coolant?? Jonathan, Based on recent experience with our '95, I'd suggest two checks. First, refill the car and drive it around until it is hot. Then open the hood and look for leaks. The first place I'd check would be the infamous radiator neck. My most recent failure wasn't actually at the neck, but at the metal/plastic seam right below it. When the car was hot it sprayed a fine mist, but when the car was cool it was impossible to detect. The second spot I had a failure was the radiator tank itself. It had a helical split on the side of the tank itself. This too self-sealed when the car was cool but hemorrhaged when the car was hot. Good luck, Kevin -------------------- Original Message -------------------- Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 08:44:20 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Invisible Coolant?? Monday morning prayer: "Please lord, let this just be a really inexpensive fluke." I started the car up this morning with a "low coolant" message to start my day. Shut it down, got out and checked and... what's this? NO coolant??? Based on the head gasket issues on my old motor a few months back, I immediatly checked the oil cap... All looks normal. Checked the oil level and it was a bit low from a recent weekend at Laguna Seca, but it looked proper and smelled like petroleum products. No mirky coolant or smell in the mix. Somewhat of a relief, but there's no noticeable leaks either. The car's been sitting since Friday evening, when it was running fine, and there was nothing under the car at all. I don't assume coolant evaporates in a couple of days. When the car was running this morning, it sounded normal and there was no steam coming from the exhaust. Where's my coolant? Any suggestions? My first thought is to fill it up and see what happens if I drive it into work tomorrow (14 miles). Car is a '99 3.2L with 157K miles, but the motor has about 57K miles. Jonathan L.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Invisible Coolant?? - from Christopher Bauer
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 08:20:23 -0600 From: Christopher Bauer <chrisbauer@vzavenue.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Invisible Coolant?? when was the last time you checked the coolant level? It could just have been a cumulative effect of very small consumptions over months and months, which I dont think would be something to worry about. Chris 97m3 ---- Original message ---- >Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 00:41:39 -0600 >From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> >Monday morning prayer: "Please lord, let this just be a really inexpensive >fluke." > >I started the car up this morning with a "low coolant" message to start my >day. Shut it down, got out and checked and... what's this? NO coolant??? >Based on the head gasket issues on my old motor a few months back, I >immediatly checked the oil cap... All looks normal. >Somewhat of a relief, but there's no noticeable leaks either. The car's >been sitting since Friday evening, when it was running fine, and there was >nothing under the car at all. I don't assume coolant evaporates in a couple >of days. When the car was running this morning, it sounded normal and there >was no steam coming from the exhaust. > >Where's my coolant? Any suggestions? My first thought is to fill it up and >see what happens if I drive it into work tomorrow (14 miles). > >Car is a '99 3.2L with 157K miles, but the motor has about 57K miles. > >Jonathan L.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Invisible Coolant?? - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 08:33:53 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Invisible Coolant?? If you want some peace of mind you could always send a sample of oil in for analysis. That'll tell you if there's any leakage into the oil system. FWIW, when my headgasket was blown the oil didn't look milky at all even though I was loosing significant amounts of coolant and the car was overheating on the track. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#6. RE: Several suspension questions - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 09:59:13 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Several suspension questions Matt, When doing the RTAB, either get the GC shims or just get the Powerflex bushings. Call James Clay (Bimmerworld), he has them both. I would do the front control arms with the new bushings and the rear strut mounts (upgraded to an E46 M3 convertible)- all can be purchased from the above mentioned vendor. Forget worrying about the Bilsteins. Nothing is mismatched here. The stock Bilsteins were matched to the stock Euro M3 springs which are about 15% stiffer than your current setup. I was told to get the Eibach springs which were identical to the Euro springs. Did I have to? No. Why did I do it? Because the front of my car was sitting higher than other stock M3s. If your car is not 'jacked up' in the front. There is nothing wrong here. Bilsteins are stiff no matter what ( you are slightly overdamped now which is better than being underdamped, ask me how I know ;) The more you will think, the more it will drive you nuts. Ahmad PS: if it is still bothering you, find a set of used Eibachs on Bimmerforums. They come by everyone once in a while. Try them on. Still don't like it, upgrade to a coilover. From: Matt Weimer <mjweimer@yahoo.com> Subject: Several suspension questions Hello Group, I have several questions before starting into the renovation of the suspension on my 112k M3. First, I need to state that this is my first E36 after owning many E30's, several 2002's and E21's (with an E28 thrown in for good measure). Number one on my list is a refresh of the various suspension bushings since all are original and some are very, very tired...RTAB's for example. What other pieces should I replace "while I'm in there" doing the RTAB's? I am not against dropping the entire subframe and replacing every bushing, in fact this would be a normal procedure for me on an E30 at this mileage/age. The car also has Bilsteins which seem poorly matched to the stock springs. For lack of better words it is very bouncy. Yes, the bump stop issue has been corrected up front so the brutal crashing is gone over sharp bumps, etc....something just feels mis-matched. Any comments or recommendations for a spring/shock combo are appreciated. This car will see mostly street use, however I do not want/expect the ride of a Cadillac. Koni's and H&R OE sport springs? Simple Coil-over's such as a PSS9 kit? Too many newbie questions? Sorry. All input is appreciated. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter '88 325iS '95 M3
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#7. Re: Seats? - from Roy Kao
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 10:20:17 -0500 From: Roy Kao <royckao@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Seats? The coilovers have been in for about 3 years now, so I'm already committed! As for the cams, I'm always a bit nervous about cracking open an engine that's been as problem free as mine has been, and it's been fanatically cared for since new. But then again, I'm sure the 'more power please' bug will bite eventually and it's only a matter of time before I do the unthinkable. -- Roy - '99 M3 Estoril Blue On 1/6/06, dhogg <dhogg@suscom.net> wrote: > > > Roy, > > > > You may want to wait on the coilovers and run in I-Stock first. If you go > IP, you'll probably want to do cams with revised engine mapping. Or not. > You can certainly do it the way yore planning. > > > > Dave Hogg > > #20 IS
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#8. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata - from Jason Knight
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 07:26:37 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 and errata I'll jump on the bandwagon here and second what Marco has said. You don't mention if you've ever embarked down this road before, but if you have not I'd especially encourage you to buy a built car. There's a lot to learn in car building, and if you can see how someone else did it then decide how you want it, and engineer it what you think is the "right" way, you can save a lot of time, money, energy, frustration, etc.... This isn't even addressing the money aspect, which Marco has done quite well below. Jason --- marco <m3driver@iname.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 23:46:30 -0800 > From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> > Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Parting out / selling > off bits of a 98 M3 and errata > > Ok. is there any way I can talk you out of this? > Do you know at best if > you ever decide to sell your soon to be race car > after you've turned it from > a perfectly good street car into a car only you can > love, you'll get 20 > cents for every dollar you put into it? > > If you know all that then go for it. Honestly I've > enjoyed every minute > I've spent turning my car into a racecar. But when > I do the math on what I > could have done with the $$ I shudder. > > Consider buying one of these. You'll save a ton of > money and time, and if > you want to tinker you still can customize it all > you want. > > http://www.bmwccaclubracing.com/static/forsale/forsale.htm > > Have fun and hope to see you at the track someday. > > Marco > $100K DM worth maybe $20K > > -----Original Message----- > From: Walter J [mailto:m3gtr@adelphia.net] > Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 10:41 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Parting out / selling off > bits of a 98 M3 and > errata > > > Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 11:10:05 -0500 > From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: Parting out / selling off bits of a 98 M3 > and errata > > Well, after mulling over whether to buy vs. build a > race car I have made > the absolute wrong choice and decided to build it > myself.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Bolt In - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 10:28:43 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Bolt In Carlos, "I always picture great big holes in the floor (where the base plates will be) and the cage being pushed up from below, the base plates then go into place and the final welding is done to all the bottom attachment points." Hello. I just had a custom cage welded into my car. Yes, the builder cuts holes in the floor, and sits the cage on the ground through these holes. He then welds the top of the cage, and then lifts it up, and then welds the floor plates into the car. I had the same question that you did, so I asked.. Be well! Mo 98 M3/4 95 M3 IP car in progress - It has a CAGE!!! 91 325IX 83 323i Project car..
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#10. RE: Several suspension questions - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 10:28:45 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Several suspension questions At 01:48 AM 1/10/2006, Matt wrote: >Any comments or recommendations for a spring/shock >combo are appreciated. This car will see mostly >street use, however I do not want/expect the ride of a >Cadillac. Koni's and H&R OE sport springs? Simple >Coil-over's such as a PSS9 kit? Stock springs and Monroe's M3 specific Sensatrac's are working well for a lot of people. Equal or better quality than Boge stock - less expensive, perfect fit. Made in Yurop.. Good combo for street use. IMHO (and Car and Driver's) the M3 was a terrific handling car right out of the BMW box. Changes may change things - but may not be an improvement for general street use. >Too many newbie questions? Sorry. All input is >appreciated. > >Matt Weimer >Hoosier Chapter >'88 325iS >'95 M3 HTH and as usual YMMV.. Don Eilenberger, AKA SquidBOOF, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 FOT2.A deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator - BMW E39 Enthusiasts: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 "One should do the stuff that makes you smile" - Ulf Bertilsson Hence: 1998 M3 convertible, 2003 5-touring, 1987 K75S
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#11. best pricing on factory parts - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 10:31:24 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: best pricing on factory parts -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 22:24:49 EST From: Soracing@aol.com Subject: best pricing on factory parts I'm looking to replace the heater valve on my 95 M3 and probably the heater hoses and some miscellaneous other items at the same time. Whomever I buy from will get quite a lot of business from me. I am looking to the group for your experiences and suggestions. Thanks in advance Steve O'Blenes Steve, Hello. I would suggest FCP Grotton. Speak with Scott or Nick. I buy all of my parts from them. Tell them that I sent you, and they will take good care of you. 877-634-0063. I am not associated with them, just a very satisfied customer. Mo