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#1. Re: Subject: Dashboard removal - from Chris Gant
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 9:56:03 -0500 From: Chris Gant <cgant@cox.net> Subject: Re: Subject: Dashboard removal Gearwrench makes some trick adapters that will give you a shallow stack height, compared to a typical ratchet, which should give you a little more room to work. But if you're having a full cage welded in, the windshield will most likely have to come out anyway. -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 10:07:02 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Dashboard removal Does anybody have a trick for removing the 7mm hex head screws under the defroster vanes w/o removing the windshield? I can't get a 1/4" drive ratchet in there and I can't quite get enough leverage on the the socket alone with my fingers to crack 'em loose. My next plan of attack is to put a cut-off wheel in the dremel and take the heads off... but then how do I re-install when it comes back from the cage builder? I thought maybe I could use a phillips head screw and a right angle screw driver but its pretty tight in there. Any alternate idears before I go nuts with a sharp instrument? -- Walter
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator - from Gary
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:18:32 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator I have the fluyidyne in mine works great no heat issues anytime even in 100+ weather in Mississippi. I also put the aluminum housing and a new pump in while I had the radiator out. I would highly recommend the replace it once and forget it radiator... Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 1:00 AM Subject: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator > Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 08:44:52 -0500 > From: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> > Subject: Aluminum radiator > > Hello listers, > > > Looking for some insight on to putting in a new radiator into my car > before the track season starts. I have seen there are a couple of choices > for aluminum radiators out there now, assuming that is the way to go (i.e. > not getting the factory S54 unit), and was wondering which product be it > zionsville, PWR, fluidyne, etc is better for dual purpose track/street? I > plan on doing this in the coming month while things are quite on the home > and track day front. As a preventative while I am in there should I swap > out the metal impeller water pump? > > Rob > > > ----------------------------------------- > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This e-mail message and any attachments are only > for the use of the intended recipient and may contain information that is > privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. > If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or > other use of this e-mail message or attachments is prohibited. If you > have > received this e-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender > immediately. Thank you. > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#3. RE: Aluminum radiator - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 10:44:12 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: RE: Aluminum radiator Not sure about the Zionsville - never used it. The Fluidyne is a fantastic fit and they are leaders in the industry - one of the few I would put in a racecar. The PWR seems to be good quality, but the fit is not quite as good. Price is right though.. Also, they make a thick core version that is better for the cars that have cooling issues due to use or environment. http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/Category7 James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com http://www.bimmerworldracing.com http://www.powerflexusa.com Engineered BMW Performance 877.639.9648
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:55:32 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aluminum radiator On 1/27/06, Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@mastercard.com> wrote: > Looking for some insight on to putting in a new radiator into my car > before the track season starts. I have the Zionsville radiator with the Spal electric fan and aluminum reservoir installed in my track car. I noticed a 20 degree lower oil temperatures on track with this radiator installed. For a street only car the additional cost makes it not worth recomending. It does have a lifetime warranty if you can demonstrate that you have changed the coolant every two years but you can buy a lot of stock radiators for the price of one from Zionsville. It fits perfectly and is nice and shiny too ;-). My $.02. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#5. Re: Quick Bilstein Sport review - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 10:59:02 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Quick Bilstein Sport review Jonathan, Quick fix. Dump the rear spring pad. Or you can always adjust the height with 3 or 4 different sizes BMW make. www.realoem.com Ask me how I know ;) A.L. The rears raised the car noticeably (0.5 inch?). Professionally installed by very knowledgeable shop. -Jonathan E 95 M3
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#6. RE: Tire Fitment - Hoosiers 255/45x17 on '96 M3 with 8.5" wheels? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 11:01:56 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Tire Fitment - Hoosiers 255/45x17 on '96 M3 with 8.5" wheels? Stan, When I went from 235/40 to 255/40, I lost some oomph from the gearing (255/40 is quite tall IMO, especially with the stock 3.23 diff, and 255/45 would be a nightmare). To give you an idea, 245 Hoosiers have a tread width of 9.6" which is identical to my 255/40 Corsas I am currently running. When I compared the Corsas neck to neck with a 245/40 Hoosiers, the Corsas were a bit taller (mine were shaved to 4/32"). So a 245/40 Hoosiers should work fine on your car (plus I have been there and done that). I think the 255/45 would be an overkill (too wide and too tall for our cars). There is a reason why its still "not sold out" (last year's tires ;) I have my fenders rolled and am running Kosei K1s all the way around with Rogue's 10mm spacers up front. Good luck. A.L.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] heat cycling...yes, no, or maybe - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 11:33:33 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] heat cycling...yes, no, or maybe Bob, I haven't found any difference, so I just try to heat cycle them myself, and save the money. FWIW. Chris > Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 18:49:37 EST > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: heat cycling...yes, no, or maybe > > Group, > > I've been discussing this issue with some local autox members lately. The > opinion of most is that it really seems to make little difference in tire wear > for autox'ing, however, for track this is where it matters. > > What's this Group's opinion?? I've done it both ways, and my last set of > tires for autox'ing performed well and lasted forever without having TireRack > heat cycle them first. So I might be in agreement with them. After all, you can > save an easy $60...
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Fitment - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:37:40 -0800 (PST) From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Fitment HI, I am running ATS two piece 18x8.5 all the way around. Currently I have 225/40s all the way around. As soon as these wear out I'll be going to a 255 rear and a 245 front. My car has Bilstein sports with the stock springs. So it still rides at the stock height. I think a 235 will fit with a spacer. I don't think there are any 235/18s with the correct aspect ratio in an 18. I could be wrong. A 245 in the front with a spacer might be a tight fit. The front is tricky because you can't really do much and still have the liners fit okay. My bodyshop man did a slight roll but stopped because he said the liners were going to be a problem. Kent Jeff Bjerke wrote: > Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 23:38:59 -0600 > From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> > Subject: Wheel Fitment > > Am I asking too much to run an 18x8.5x40mm with a 245-40-18 on a lowered > car > with the possibility of adding a Stoptech kit up front which would require > a > spacer? I have no problems rolling fenders, but not interested in pulling > them outward to make clearance. > > Anyone run 235-40-18 with this setup?? > > Appreciate any insight as to what others are running. > > Jeff > > 98 Red/Black Coupe (Converting to track rat) > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > -- Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good masters, but they mean to be masters. -- Daniel Webster
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Fitment - from Gary
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 14:07:06 -0600 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Fitment Pull the liners out...Mine are gone...Make a bracket for the brake duct and your good to go Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 11:41 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Fitment > Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:37:40 -0800 (PST) > From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Fitment > > HI, > > I am running ATS two piece 18x8.5 all the way around. > Currently I have 225/40s all the way around. > As soon as these wear out I'll be going to a 255 rear and a 245 front. > > My car has Bilstein sports with the stock springs. So it still rides at > the stock height. > > I think a 235 will fit with a spacer. I don't think there are any 235/18s > with the correct > aspect ratio in an 18. I could be wrong. A 245 in the front with a spacer > might be a tight fit. > The front is tricky because you can't really do much and still have the > liners fit okay. My bodyshop man did a slight roll but stopped because he > said the liners were going to be a problem. > > Kent > > > Jeff Bjerke wrote: >> Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 23:38:59 -0600 >> From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> >> Subject: Wheel Fitment >> >> Am I asking too much to run an 18x8.5x40mm with a 245-40-18 on a lowered >> car >> with the possibility of adding a Stoptech kit up front which would >> require >> a >> spacer? I have no problems rolling fenders, but not interested in pulling >> them outward to make clearance. >> >> Anyone run 235-40-18 with this setup?? >> >> Appreciate any insight as to what others are running. >> >> Jeff >> >> 98 Red/Black Coupe (Converting to track rat) >> >> >> >> ************************************************* >> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >> >> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >> Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >> Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com >> >> DIGEST INFORMATION: >> http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >> ************************************************* >> >> >> > > > -- > Good intentions will always be pleaded for every assumption of authority. > It is hardly too strong to say that the Constitution was made to guard the > people against the dangers of good intentions. There are men in all ages > who mean to govern well, but they mean to govern. They promise to be good > masters, but they mean to be masters. -- Daniel Webster > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#10. RE: Now to the radiator cap question - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:21:43 -0800 (PST) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: RE: Now to the radiator cap question > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > I think someone on the list touched on this briefly. > The T-Stat is not intended to be open all the time nor is it open all > the way all the time, if it was every car would overheat all the time. How do you figure? If it was open all the way all the time, it would never overheat, it would simply take longer to get up to temperature if it ever does. It would only overheat if the capacity of the system was woefully inadequate. > My understanding is that the T-Stat works as a 'gate' to keep water in > the radiator so that heat transfer can occur. No, not exactly. The thermostat acts as a gate to keep water out of the radiator until it arrives at a certain temperature where it will begin to allow flow to the radiator based on how open it is in order to aid cooling. It controls the flow or the amount of fluid entering the radiator based on how open it is. If it allows more flow through the radiator (i.e., less recirculating directly into the block), more cool fluid is being introduced into the engine block which reduces the temperature. Also, the thermostat is located 'ahead' of the radiator, not after it. It effectively keeps all the coolant flowing through the block only until it comes up to temperature. > If the T-Stat in our cars > was unable to control the temperature of the coolant then there would be > no reason to have one in the system (unless one was able to control the > volume of fluid the water pump 'moved' by varying the speed of the > pump). I believe in an 'ideal' system the T-Stat cycles open and closed > or from partially open to full open in order to maintain reasonable > engine temperatures. Heat transfer from the fluid in the radiator to the > outside air only happens when the fluid in the radiator is held > 'captive' by the T-Stat for a few moments. Huh? Not sure what you mean by this. Heat transfer from the fluid happens primarily in the radiator as the fluid flows from the inlet to the outlet. It has nothing to do with the "fluid in the radiator held 'captive' by the T-Stat for a few moments". The thermostat simply allows for the routing of fluid (amount depends on how open it is) to the radiator. It doesn't move fluid into the radiator, holds it until it cools and then opens. It simply controls the amount of fluid allowed to pass into the radiator (as opposed to recirculating through the block). > Running a 'cooler' T-Stat or > a T-Stat that opens at a lower temperature allows the engine to operate > at a lower temperature and as result produce optimum power. I don't entirely agree. First off, the cooling system is designed in a way to allow the engine to heat up as quickly as possible, and then to maintain the engine in a reasonable temperature range. It does this as a motor wears less at a determined operating temperature. When the engine is cold, it wears out faster, the engine is less efficient and their is higher emissions. Lower temps don't automatically assume optimum power, matter of fact, it could result in less power. > As was > pointed out internal combustion engines run at optimum power output when > coolant temperatures run between 160deg - 180deg F. Where did that number come from? (yes, I saw James C make reference to it). I would like to see actual documentation on that one. I have also heard reference to 200F. Regardless, I am sure it would also depend on the oil temperature, the motor design, an oil cooling system (or not), etc. > I think some of us have experienced a T-Stat that 'stays open' and the > cooling system really never captures enough heat to warm our feet. Yep, struggling with that one in my POS Ford Ranger. Later, Rich