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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: impact gun - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:33:12 -0500 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: impact gun Sorry for blasting so many at once but traveling and no email access for the last couple days. In withdrawal. I use torque sticks with all my lugs and main bolts to eliminate overtightening. Got the 17mm for BMW from the Ultimate Garage. Harbor Freight has a set of 1/2 inch torque stick extensions to fit any impact socket. Carey Seth Thomas wrote: >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 15:48:23 -0500 >From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: impact gun > >14.4 is perfect. Applies them at just enough torque that you check the lugs >with a torque wrench and you barely move them when it clicks. It will also >take the lugs off without much effort on a full charge. The 18V does the >same but takes them off a lot easier. > > > -- Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: hcprobst@alum.mit.edu A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
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#2. GC Coilovers+Camber Plates - from pkelly@agincourtcapital.com
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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:44:22 -0800 From: pkelly@agincourtcapital.com Subject: GC Coilovers+Camber Plates After living with a Dinan Stage II suspension (Koni SA's, Dinan springs with cracking blue paint, adjustable sways) for a few years, I'm about to bite the bullet on the Ground Control C/O + camber plate setup. The car is a daily driver, but I do at least two driving schools per year and a few autocrosses. I really like the capability of adjusting the camber when I get to an event and going back to a street setting before driving home. The Dinan setup is not great--the springs are too soft, or the struts are too long, I'm not sure which, but hitting a medium-sized potholes causes the front suspension to bottom out. I'm hoping the GC setup, even with stiffer springs, will give me a superior street ride. Any input is appreciated, especially with respect to spring rates for a dual purpose car that is primarily a daily driver but comes in near top of standings in local autocrosses and for a "B" student a PDF's. TIA Pat Kelly 95 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] GC Coilovers+Camber Plates - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 11:57:03 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC Coilovers+Camber Plates On Feb 4, 2006, at 11:52 AM, pkelly@agincourtcapital.com wrote: > The Dinan setup is not great--the springs are too soft, or the > struts are > too long, I'm not sure which, but hitting a medium-sized potholes > causes > the front suspension to bottom out. I'm hoping the GC setup, even > with > stiffer springs, will give me a superior street ride. > > Any input is appreciated, especially with respect to spring rates > for a > dual purpose car that is primarily a daily driver but comes in near > top > of standings in local autocrosses and for a "B" student a PDF's. Why don't you just put a set of stiffer springs on the car and see how it goes? Springs are cheap and WAY WAY cheaper than a new set of coilovers, even street coilovers. A compromise, sure, but you'll be out a couple of hundred dollars if it doesn't work and save yourself what, a thousand?, if it does. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#4. E30 M3 and E36 M3 parts for sale - from Bruce
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 14:10:36 -0600 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> Subject: E30 M3 and E36 M3 parts for sale All parts plus shipping form 75034 E30 M3 parts stock radio $20 tranny bracket $10 IE trailing arm bushings $25 cams: original 125k miles good condition $100 pedal box $40 sunroof motor $10 brake booster $75 half shafts $30 Bilsten rear true colovers $350 front Koni DA Ground Control spec valving for E30 M3 coilovers $250 passenger side rear taillight $20 new E36 M3 mirror replicas with E30 adapters (was misreprensented when advertised, not what I wanted) $150 stock dash $150 side skirts $75 E36 M3 parts Euro 3.2 motor mount arms (2 rights, one left)- $40 Euro plenum support bracket $20 Euro adjustable steering column $75 US water pump (used) $30 Euro 3.2 flywheel and pressure plate (5 pounds lighter than stock US, great to start to machine it down for lightened flyhweel) $100 Race parts: Fuel safe fuel cell with fuel pump and fuel filter, assorted aluminum connectors $750 Bruce
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#5. Wiring through the firewall... - from Som Naderi
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 14:44:12 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Wiring through the firewall... Hello Group, I’m trying to run 2 sensor wires through from behind the glovebox into the engine bay through the firewall. I can’t figure out how/where to pass the wires through. There’s some foam (I’m assuming sound absorption) and I’m wondering if I need to cut through that somewhere. I’ve removed the main harness thing in there for swapping the microfilter out (damn, mine was dirty) and it’s just solid foam up against the firewall. On the engine bay side, I’ve removed the cover that leads to what I thought I read is the DME (not sure though). I can’t really see any route through that little enclosure that leads to the area behind the glove box, either. I’ve also notice a round little piece of rubber that has a few wires running through it. I read somewhere that I can run wire through that, but it’s not easy to get to. Do I just need to take a razor to it and run a coat hanger through or something? Not knowing how the wiring is set up, I don’t want to cut into anything. What am I missing here? I can’t imagine this should be this difficult. Does anyone ever just drill a hole through the firewall somewhere? I’m almost tempted to do that, though, again, I worry about nailing a wiring bundle and KO’ing my car. Thanks in advance for any help! - Som – ’98 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Wiring through the firewall... - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 16:59:35 -0700 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wiring through the firewall... I have more stuff than I want to think about running through the firewall, so I've gotten better at this than I wanted to be. It's not the most fun you'll ever have, but it's doable without cutting anything. I've put stuff through that little round rubber grommet, but I think going through the one for the battery cable is easier. I'd recommend disconnecting the battery before you start. You've already got glovebox out. If you haven't done so, pull out the trim panel that's right above the passenger's knees. Then pull the carpet and foam padding away from the firewall. You may need to also remove the kick panel that covers the right side speaker to give you enough slack. You should see a couple of big red wires plunging through a rubber grommet into the engine bay.That's where you'll feed your wires through. If you go around to the engine bay, you'll see those red wires lead up to the positive terminal block (the black thing with the big red '+' on it). Carefully pull the grommet back into the passenger compartment, just an inch or so. Stuff your wires through one of the holes that are already being used for the big red wires. You can try doing this without pulling the grommet back, but popping it out makes it easier to poke stuff through the holes. Be real careful with the insulation on the red wires! If you pulled the grommet out, when you pop it back into the hole, you may need to do some finagling with a flat blade screwdriver from both the passenger and engine compartment sides to get it properly seated. One note: I found that with thicker wires (like the one for my EGT probe), that disconnecting and removing the positive terminal block in the engine compartment made things a bit easier. Good luck. - Alain ----- Original Message ----- From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 3:52 PM Subject: [E36M3] Wiring through the firewall... > Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 14:44:12 -0800 > From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> > Subject: Wiring through the firewall... > > Hello Group, > > I'm trying to run 2 sensor wires through from behind the glovebox into the > engine bay through the firewall. I can't figure out how/where to pass the > wires through. There's some foam (I'm assuming sound absorption) and I'm > wondering if I need to cut through that somewhere. I've removed the main > harness thing in there for swapping the microfilter out (damn, mine was > dirty) and it's just solid foam up against the firewall. > > On the engine bay side, I've removed the cover that leads to what I > thought > I read is the DME (not sure though). I can't really see any route through > that little enclosure that leads to the area behind the glove box, either. > I've also notice a round little piece of rubber that has a few wires > running > through it. I read somewhere that I can run wire through that, but it's > not > easy to get to. Do I just need to take a razor to it and run a coat > hanger > through or something? Not knowing how the wiring is set up, I don't want > to > cut into anything. > > What am I missing here? I can't imagine this should be this difficult. > Does anyone ever just drill a hole through the firewall somewhere? I'm > almost tempted to do that, though, again, I worry about nailing a wiring > bundle and KO'ing my car. > > Thanks in advance for any help! > > - Som - '98 M3 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Weighing Cars in Bay Area - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 11:08:37 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <thenobot@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Weighing Cars in Bay Area --- dgcrum@jps.net wrote: > Weigh in! Thanks for the pointer! It's really great to have that around the corner ;-) 2005 E46 M3 Competition Pkg w/ factory BBS wheels, ground control coilovers, no additional lightening, nearly empty gas tank: 3180 lbs (without my big butt in the car) 3400-3380 lbs (had to take a leak ;-) Half a tank would add ~ (6.5 lbs/gal * 8 gal) = 52 lbs. BTW, I went back after filling the gas tank, but a tractor-trailer was on the scale. The readout was 75,800 pounds! -zs
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#8. OT: Imoact Wrench Deal - from Spencer Fong
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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 19:34:18 +0000 From: sk99m3@comcast.net (Spencer Fong) Subject: OT: Imoact Wrench Deal With all this talk of impact wrenches, I found a great deal. 1. Until noon EST on monday, Amazon has the Milwaukee V28 kit (#0779-22) on sale for $350. Two batteries, charger, case. 2. With any V28 kit, Milwaukee has a coupon for a free V28 tool. Up to $250, tool only, no battery. 3. If you spend over $300 on tools at Amazon, you get a free DeWalt reciprocating saw (#DW303K). While supply lasts. Deal on "Tools and Hardware" page. 4. Free shipping. Some other tidbits I found. DeWalt has announced a 36volt line of tools. Milwaukee has announced an 18volt Li-Ion battery which will retrofit into their 18volt NiCad tools.
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#9. Impact Gun - from Jon@treehouseracing.com
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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 16:42:36 -0600 From: "Jon@treehouseracing.com" <jon@treehouseracing.com> Subject: Impact Gun We use and sell 24v Goodyear electric impact gun kits. 1 gun 1 battery 1 charger 1 hard plastic case 4 or 5 hardened sockets I think it has just under 300 ft/lbs torque. They work great. Jon ______________________________________________ Jon Siccardi - DM #052 TreehouseRacing.com M50conversion.com 615.333.9118 ______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Spencer Fong" <sk99m3@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 1:42 PM Subject: [E36M3] OT: Imoact Wrench Deal > Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 19:34:18 +0000 > From: sk99m3@comcast.net (Spencer Fong) > Subject: OT: Imoact Wrench Deal > > With all this talk of impact wrenches, I found a great deal. > > 1. Until noon EST on monday, Amazon has the Milwaukee V28 kit (#0779-22) > on sale for $350. Two batteries, charger, case. > > 2. With any V28 kit, Milwaukee has a coupon for a free V28 tool. Up to > $250, tool only, no battery. > > 3. If you spend over $300 on tools at Amazon, you get a free DeWalt > reciprocating saw (#DW303K). While supply lasts. Deal on "Tools and > Hardware" page. > > 4. Free shipping. > > Some other tidbits I found. DeWalt has announced a 36volt line of tools. > Milwaukee has announced an 18volt Li-Ion battery which will retrofit into > their 18volt NiCad tools. > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 19:57:54 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? I'm in the process of retrofitting my pre-iBus M3 to work with a Dension icelink. I already have a CD43 single disc CD player (I like the stock look, so replacing the head unit is not an option), so it should be a question of wiring it all up, but with some new wires... If I were using a factory CD changer this would be easy: Just run the iBus CD cable to the trunk (plus an additional iBus control wire from the #7 pin on the radio connector), and patch in the power connections there, but since I'm installing the Dension, doing that would mean that I'd then have to run that cable all the way back to the front, which seems less than optimal. What I'd like to do is just use shortened cables to route everything to the glovebox where I plan to keep the iPod.. The elegant way to do this is not to cut and patch wires, but to remove the wires from the plugs, shorten them, install new terminals and reinstall. The problem is getting the terminals out of the connectors. I've tried using pins to disengage the barbs, which has worked for me on larger gauge wiring in the past, but these are just too small. And I don't want to cut open the connectors, since I want to reuse them. Is there a secret to getting the wires out, or a special tool, to do this? TIA, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8