-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help - from Michael, Dave
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 14:46:27 -0500 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help I was thinking something similar, except that I was assuming that is what the index mark on the rack did that for me. In other words, if I align the pointer on the collar of the shaft coming out of the rack to the dot on the rack casting, then the rack is centered (assuming of course its not 360 degrees off). Not true? My original post btw indicated that that currently these marks are NOT lined up when the steering wheel is centered. I need to verify that that the tie rod ends are not adjusted un-evenly to compensate. What I think I will do is remove the flex joint from the column, install it on the rack and then install them both back onto the shaft with the wheel and rack centered. I take it that new tire rod ends @85k miles is good P-M? Does one need a thin wall wrench to get the inner tie-rod off the rack? Thanks! Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] > Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 2:14 PM > To: Michael, Dave; E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help > > > --- "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> wrote: > > Also, the Bentley says that the opening joint of the pinch collar > > needs to line up with the mark on the rack when steering wheel is > > pointing straight. Mine does not. It's off by at least 4 > teeth. Do I > > care? > > You have to be careful the alignment of the steering wheel > with respect to the rack position. Yes, you can adjust by > rotating the steering wheel on the column or you can adjust > by tierods; however, there's only a finite amount of travel > from the rack--you don't want to have more travel off > "center" from one side to the other side. So...a trick I do > is to center the steering wheel to where center on the > steering rack (as measured by a sliding caliper from the edge > of the rack casting to the end of the sliding rod) is so that > when I go for an alignment, I know that if the tech holds the > steering wheel straight, then the tie rods will be adjusted > 100% correctly and I'll have equal travel going left or > right. Also, I'm sure that if the rack is extended to one > side more than other, it probably introduces some geometry > (though rather > insignificant) differences. > > Chester > > >
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. RE: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 12:03:51 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help --- "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> wrote: > I was thinking something similar, except that I was assuming that is > what the index mark on the rack did that for me. In other words, if I > align the pointer on the collar of the shaft coming out of the rack to > the dot on the rack casting, then the rack is centered (assuming of > course its not 360 degrees off). Not true? That plastic collar can be pulled up into the groove and rotate freely and then pushed back down so unless you know it lined up in the first place, it's not an accurate measure. When both boots pushed aside, you can easily use a slide measure. I would trust that more than the collar to the casting mark. > I take it that new tire rod ends @85k miles is good P-M? Does one need a > thin wall wrench to get the inner tie-rod off the rack? Need or have? :) I have the BMW 32mm wrench that is used for the fan nut. But when it came time to do the tie rods, I took that tool to the bench grinder and narrowed it up. Now it serves dual purpose for the fan nut and the tie rods. Chester
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE:: Hard Steering Update and F-A help - from Burgess, Kim L
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 12:11:50 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE:: Hard Steering Update and F-A help Chester - Are you rebuilding racks yet? I thought I recall you bought the tools to install the seals. KLBurgess -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 11:13:38 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help --- "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> wrote: > Also, the Bentley says that the opening joint of the pinch collar > needs to line up with the mark on the rack when steering wheel is > pointing straight. Mine does not. It's off by at least 4 teeth. Do I > care? You have to be careful the alignment of the steering wheel with respect to the rack position. Yes, you can adjust by rotating the steering wheel on the column or you can adjust by tierods; however, there's only a finite amount of travel from the rack--you don't want to have more travel off "center" from one side to the other side. So...a trick I do is to center the steering wheel to where center on the steering rack (as measured by a sliding caliper from the edge of the rack casting to the end of the sliding rod) is so that when I go for an alignment, I know that if the tech holds the steering wheel straight, then the tie rods will be adjusted 100% correctly and I'll have equal travel going left or right. Also, I'm sure that if the rack is extended to one side more than other, it probably introduces some geometry (though rather insignificant) differences. Chester
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE:: Hard Steering Update and F-A help - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 12:17:02 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE:: Hard Steering Update and F-A help Several of the necessary tools are NLA from BMW. In actuality, these tools are nothing more than simple drifts and press fittings and can probably be made at a local shop for probably less than what BMW would charge. The only real issue is how often would I be building racks? Would there be enough demand from this community to offer it as a service? Then there's the rebuilding fee...what would be considered acceptable? Most people would balk at something like $100. I think the biggest concern would also be a bent rack. I've bent two racks so far....yeowsa! Chester --- "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > Chester - Are you rebuilding racks yet? I thought I recall you bought > the tools to install the seals.
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] vacuum leak - from Marc Plante
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:10:29 -0500 From: Marc Plante <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] vacuum leak The Later (OBD-II) M3s have an Air pump that bleeds off air after shutting down. Think its in place to support better warmup emissions. The bellows in my 325i rotted and caused some rough idling issues. Definitely worth replacing. Marc Plante 1997 E36 M3/4 69k 2005 Child (finally OK with cars) Vienna, VA
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help - from Michael, Dave
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 16:20:26 -0500 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Hard Steering Update and F-A help --- "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@maxtor.com> wrote: > > I was thinking something similar, except that I was > assuming that is > > what the index mark on the rack did that for me. In other > words, if I > > align the pointer on the collar of the shaft coming out of > the rack to > > the dot on the rack casting, then the rack is centered (assuming of > > course its not 360 degrees off). Not true? > > That plastic collar can be pulled up into the groove and > rotate freely and then pushed back down so unless you know it > lined up in the first place, it's not an accurate measure. > When both boots pushed aside, you can easily use a slide > measure. I would trust that more than the collar to the casting mark. OK - very handy info. I'll measure each side of the rack to center the rack. And then make sure the collar is centered o so I don't confude myself 5 years from now...... Thanks Dave
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. FS: GC RTAB Inserts - AKA: Street Stability Kit. - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 14:46:51 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: FS: GC RTAB Inserts - AKA: Street Stability Kit. I just swapped out a few bushings for some TC Kline delrin items, so I no longer need the Ground Control shims/inserts from my OE rear trailing arm bushings. (On the GC site they're called a "Street Stability Kit") They've worked very well with OE bushings, but I simply don't need them anymore. They're listed at $60 new, so I'm asking $30 OBO. Feel free to contact me off list, Jonathan L.
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Clutch pedal noises & suspension questions - from Peter Fry
Top
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 15:03:16 -0800 From: Peter Fry <PeterFry@aol.com> Subject: Clutch pedal noises & suspension questions Fellow E36 M3er's- I need some help identifying and eliminating some annoying sounds from the clutch pedal in my 99 M3. For the past year, I've had a "click" that I can hear and feel when letting out the clutch. It happens well after clutch engagement, probably an inch or two from the top of the travel. Then, this morning an annoying squeek from the pivot point started when putting the pedal in. The car's got just shy of 80K mi on it. Anybody know where the click might be coming from, and what I can do about it? It sounds like a spring, if that makes any sense. I'm pretty sure the squeek relates to the clutch bushings. I've got a replacement OEM set in hand. Any strong opinions on the Rogue product, or another one, instead? Second, I'm planning new shocks in the spring, when the snow tires come off. I'm thinking Bilstein Sports. Some sources mention that these are for use with lower springs. I'm happy with the stock height. The other (cheaper) option would be stock OEM Boges. I'd welcome the thoughts and experiences of those who've already been down this road. Thanks, Peter Fry Red 99 M3 Sharked, Conforti cold air intake, poorly damped, with a clicking, squeeking clutch
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Clutch pedal noises & suspension questions - from Jamie Howton
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 17:29:52 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch pedal noises & suspension questions UUC Motorwerks sells a clutch pedal bushing replacement kit that'll solve the squeeking problem forever. The click could be related to shot bushings too, but you'll be able to tell for sure when everything is apart. It's a real PITA job unless you enjoy spending upside down time in the driver's footwell. The UUC site has installation instructions available for download too. The choice of shcoks really depends upon what you want out of the suspension. I understand that the Bilsteins provide a pretty harsh street ride, alternately someone on this list recently installed Monroe struts which may be a better choice for a street car. You may want to search the archives on this one, I am sure the subject has been beat to death multiple times. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Impact Gun - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 18:47:27 -0500 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Impact Gun Might be interesting but the acceleration would be a little choppy. ;-) Carey Carl Stern wrote: > Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 09:43:46 -0700 > From: Carl Stern <carl.stern@xilinx.com> > Subject: Re: Impact Gun > >> I have the Milwaukee impact gun, and love it. It is the model that >> generates 240 Ft/LBS of torque. > > >> I have the Dewalt and it has been good. It's a bit heavy but with >> 18v and 240 lb-ft of torque it will remove about anything on a car. > > I have the BMW S50 3.0l gas model, but it only puts out 225 lb-ft of > torque. > And it is really heavy. > > The heck with the Lysholm twinscrew or a cam kit. I'm bolting on > an 18v drill motor to my driveshaft. > > > My stock 95 with 1/2 tank gas weighed 3170 on the dragstrip scale at > Bandimere. > > > Carl Stern > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > -- Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: hcprobst@alum.mit.edu A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. updated E30 M3 and E36 M3 parts for sale - from Bruce
Top
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 17:49:36 -0600 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> Subject: updated E30 M3 and E36 M3 parts for sale All parts plus shipping form 75034 E30 M3 parts cams: original 125k miles good condition $100 pedal box $40 Bilsten rear true colovers $350 new E36 M3 mirror replicas with E30 adapters (was misreprensented when advertised, not what I wanted) $150 adding E30 M3 parts: stock injectors $75 stock rear wing- typical cracks- $50 E36 M3 parts Euro 3.2 motor mount arms (2 rights, one left)- $40 Euro plenum support bracket $20 Euro adjustable steering column $75 US water pump (used) $30 Euro 3.2 flywheel and pressure plate (5 pounds lighter than stock US, great to start to machine it down for lightened flyhweel) $100 Race parts: Fuel safe fuel cell with fuel pump and fuel filter, assorted aluminum connectors $750 Bruce