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#1. Yokohama A048 - from Jeff Bjerke
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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 11:59:26 -0600 From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: Yokohama A048 Has anyone tried the new Yokohama A048 r-compound tire? How does it compare to the Toyo RA-1? I assume it's leaps and bounds better than the A032. I wish the RA-1 came in a 245-40-17 and Tire Rack distribution! Jeff Bjerke 98 M3 Coupe
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#2. [M3] WTB: alum. rad. - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 14:08:57 -0500 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: [M3] WTB: alum. rad. Anyone not have an aluminum radiator laying around? I know, dumb question, but it's worth a try. Bill Molina broken neck and stuck thermostat on same day
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Yokohama A048 - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 14:44:06 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Yokohama A048 I have run 255/40-17 size Toyo RA-1's on stock 8.5 inch rims on my '95 M3 2-door. They fit fine with some moderately aggressive fender rolling in the rear. The fronts fit fine as is. If you believe the manufacturer's published specs, then the 235/40-17 Toyo RA-1 is virtually the same size as the Yokohama A048 245/40-17. The RA-1 235 has a section width of 9.6 inches versus 9.8 for the Yokohama 245. The Toyo 255 is slightly bigger than the Yokohama 255 too, 10.4 inches versus 10.3. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 ---------------------------------------------- In a message dated 2/19/06 12:07:12 PM Central Standard Time, jbjerke@charter.net writes: I wish the RA-1 came in a 245-40-17 and Tire Rack distribution! Jeff Bjerke 98 M3 Coupe
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Yokohama A048 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 19:21:34 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Yokohama A048 The tires come on the Elise with the sport package and though they are stickier than street tires, I don't think they're all that...especially not for the price. The Advan AD-07s, though, are really something else. Anyway, the A048s heat cycle pretty quickly and become pretty useless if you put too many cycles on them. My $.02 --- Jeff Bjerke <jbjerke@charter.net> wrote: > Has anyone tried the new Yokohama A048 r-compound tire? How does it compare > to the Toyo RA-1? I assume it's leaps and bounds better than the A032. > > I wish the RA-1 came in a 245-40-17 and Tire Rack distribution!
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#5. Kumho ECSTA V710 - from Jeff Bjerke
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 09:18:30 -0600 From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: Kumho ECSTA V710 Can anyone give me some feedback on the Kumho ECSTA V710 track tire? I need to order a set of 6 tires and it's the perfect time to try something new. I'm looking for good stick, but more importantly something that has reasonable longevity. Love Hoosiers, but they are getting expensive for driving school duties. RA1's are great but I'm buying a set of wheels from Tire Rack and will have to pay mount and balance. Jeff 98 M3 99 328i
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Kumho ECSTA V710 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 07:46:35 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho ECSTA V710 Those are the tires of choice for track days as well as autox. Excellent longevity as well as performance. Just gotta get a right size... Chester --- Jeff Bjerke <jbjerke@charter.net> wrote: > Can anyone give me some feedback on the Kumho ECSTA V710 track tire? I need > to order a set of 6 tires and it's the perfect time to try something new. > I'm looking for good stick, but more importantly something that has > reasonable longevity. Love Hoosiers, but they are getting expensive for > driving school duties. RA1's are great but I'm buying a set of wheels from > Tire Rack and will have to pay mount and balance.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Kumho ECSTA V710 - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 10:25:20 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho ECSTA V710 On Feb 20, 2006, at 7:26 AM, Jeff Bjerke wrote: > Can anyone give me some feedback on the Kumho ECSTA V710 track > tire? I need > to order a set of 6 tires and it's the perfect time to try > something new. Six? You got a dually or something? > I'm looking for good stick, but more importantly something that has > reasonable longevity. Love Hoosiers, but they are getting expensive > for > driving school duties. RA1's are great but I'm buying a set of > wheels from > Tire Rack and will have to pay mount and balance. I don't really understand why you'd use anything other than RA-1s for schools and lapping days. The 710s are faster, sure, but it's the TIRE that's faster, not the driver. You can learn as much, if not more, on the RA-1s and spend a whole lot less money doing it. - Mark, races on V700s, instructs and practices on RA-1s ----- mark@pdc-racing.net Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete - from Walter J
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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:23:18 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete I just thought I'd take a moment to follow-up with the general findings from my heater box removal this weekend. It was a project that I figured would be annoying because of the messy coolant issue but not too difficult given that my seats and dash were already out. I gave it about 2hrs. I was only half wrong... it WAS annoying. The E36 heater box from cars with the electronic split-control unit officially rank as a success story for anyone who love a tightly integrated component. The basics of removal go a little like this: - Drain coolant - Recover Freon - Remove wipers and plastic cover - Remove four screws from inside the wiper well - Remove 10mm nut from plastic water neck under wiper arms, difficult but accessible with 1/4 drive swivels and extensions - Remove AC lines by removing 6mm cap screw from wiper well and 2 6mm cap screws on fire wall - Remove front cover of heater box along (7 torx screws) - Unplug wiring from bottom left of box - Remove al1 bolts/screws securing steering column bracket and fold it down about 6" - Pull/twist/otherwise perform Rubik-type puzzle solving skill to fit heater box carefully thru the maze of obstacles and bumps and set it on the floor - change your socks, they are soaked with coolant - Loosen 3 hose clamps connected to the plastic neck thru the firewall and three hose clamps on the heater control valve right next to it. Remove the valve. This is more difficult than it sounds and quite possibly made easier if I had realized I was going to have to pull the intake manifold anyway - Remove intake manifold to gain access to the hoses that need to be re plumbed at the rear of the head. You might be able to skip this if you are very petite or a small child, Geisha or similar but I could not make my hand and a wrench fit in the space. - Re-install intake - Fill coolant Summary: This is kind of difficult if you are alone (I was) but would have been much easier with a buddy (preferably with little tiny hands with eyeballs in the finger tips). In the end - it will save 35 lbs, make the cage tighter and make the job of cleaning up all the wiring way less tedious so I'm going to say that it was worth doing but it was a much bigger job than it looked to be and quite possibly one of the most irritating I've ever done. The oil pan is easier to drop on this car. Total time 6hrs. I could repeat it in 3 now that I know where all the rotten little screws/clips are. -- Walter
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#9. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete - from marco
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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:59:54 -0800 From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete heh. I just looked at your original email. I'm a bit behind. I did the exact same thing last summer. YUCK. Makes the job of removing the extra wires from the wiring harness easier though. Do that next. I'm at 30 hours and counting on that job. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Walter J [mailto:m3gtr@adelphia.net] Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 5:27 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:23:18 -0500 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete I just thought I'd take a moment to follow-up with the general findings from my heater box removal this weekend. It was a project that I figured would be annoying because of the messy coolant issue but not too difficult given that my seats and dash were already out. I gave it about 2hrs. I was only half wrong... it WAS annoying. The E36 heater box from cars with the electronic split-control unit officially rank as a success story for anyone who love a tightly integrated component. The basics of removal go a little like this: - Drain coolant - Recover Freon - Remove wipers and plastic cover - Remove four screws from inside the wiper well - Remove 10mm nut from plastic water neck under wiper arms, difficult but accessible with 1/4 drive swivels and extensions - Remove AC lines by removing 6mm cap screw from wiper well and 2 6mm cap screws on fire wall - Remove front cover of heater box along (7 torx screws) - Unplug wiring from bottom left of box - Remove al1 bolts/screws securing steering column bracket and fold it down about 6" - Pull/twist/otherwise perform Rubik-type puzzle solving skill to fit heater box carefully thru the maze of obstacles and bumps and set it on the floor - change your socks, they are soaked with coolant - Loosen 3 hose clamps connected to the plastic neck thru the firewall and three hose clamps on the heater control valve right next to it. Remove the valve. This is more difficult than it sounds and quite possibly made easier if I had realized I was going to have to pull the intake manifold anyway - Remove intake manifold to gain access to the hoses that need to be re plumbed at the rear of the head. You might be able to skip this if you are very petite or a small child, Geisha or similar but I could not make my hand and a wrench fit in the space. - Re-install intake - Fill coolant Summary: This is kind of difficult if you are alone (I was) but would have been much easier with a buddy (preferably with little tiny hands with eyeballs in the finger tips). In the end - it will save 35 lbs, make the cage tighter and make the job of cleaning up all the wiring way less tedious so I'm going to say that it was worth doing but it was a much bigger job than it looked to be and quite possibly one of the most irritating I've ever done. The oil pan is easier to drop on this car. Total time 6hrs. I could repeat it in 3 now that I know where all the rotten little screws/clips are. -- Walter ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 10:09:30 -0500 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete Another 40hr or so, and you should be done.......I could probably do the whole thing over again in 20 hours flat....(isn't experience great...now I just need another car to make it worth it) - Chris At 09:06 AM 2/21/2006 -0600, marco wrote: >Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:59:54 -0800 >From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> >Subject: RE: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete > >heh. > >I just looked at your original email. I'm a bit behind. I did the exact >same thing last summer. > >YUCK. > >Makes the job of removing the extra wires from the wiring harness easier >though. Do that next. I'm at 30 hours and counting on that job. > >Marco > >-----Original Message----- >From: Walter J [mailto:m3gtr@adelphia.net] >Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 5:27 AM >To: E36M3 >Subject: [e36m3] Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete > > >Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:23:18 -0500 >From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Heater box removal complete > >I just thought I'd take a moment to follow-up with the general findings >from my heater box removal this weekend. It was a project that I figured >would be annoying because of the messy coolant issue but not too >difficult given that my seats and dash were already out. I gave it about >2hrs. I was only half wrong... it WAS annoying. > >The E36 heater box from cars with the electronic split-control unit >officially rank as a success story for anyone who love a tightly >integrated component. The basics of removal go a little like this: > >- Drain coolant >- Recover Freon >- Remove wipers and plastic cover >- Remove four screws from inside the wiper well >- Remove 10mm nut from plastic water neck under wiper arms, difficult >but accessible with 1/4 drive swivels and extensions >- Remove AC lines by removing 6mm cap screw from wiper well and 2 6mm >cap screws on fire wall >- Remove front cover of heater box along (7 torx screws) >- Unplug wiring from bottom left of box >- Remove al1 bolts/screws securing steering column bracket and fold it >down about 6" >- Pull/twist/otherwise perform Rubik-type puzzle solving skill to fit >heater box carefully thru the maze of obstacles and bumps and set it on >the floor >- change your socks, they are soaked with coolant >- Loosen 3 hose clamps connected to the plastic neck thru the firewall >and three hose clamps on the heater control valve right next to it. >Remove the valve. This is more difficult than it sounds and quite >possibly made easier if I had realized I was going to have to pull the >intake manifold anyway >- Remove intake manifold to gain access to the hoses that need to be re >plumbed at the rear of the head. You might be able to skip this if you >are very petite or a small child, Geisha or similar but I could not make >my hand and a wrench fit in the space. >- Re-install intake >- Fill coolant > >Summary: >This is kind of difficult if you are alone (I was) but would have been >much easier with a buddy (preferably with little tiny hands with >eyeballs in the finger tips). > >In the end - it will save 35 lbs, make the cage tighter and make the job >of cleaning up all the wiring way less tedious so I'm going to say that >it was worth doing but it was a much bigger job than it looked to be and >quite possibly one of the most irritating I've ever done. The oil pan is >easier to drop on this car. Total time 6hrs. I could repeat it in 3 now >that I know where all the rotten little screws/clips are. > >-- >Walter > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com >Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >*************************************************