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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (or Sponges) - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 15:36:47 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (or Sponges) On Fri, March 3, 2006 3:06 pm, Murray Roblin said: > I haven't heard that the RTAB mounting bracket weld is an issue. Do these > fail and rip the car's sheet metal? It's primarily an issue with heavily tracked or race cars. See: <http://www.bmwccaclubracing.com/static/2006Series/bulletins/0198.htm> > Is the welding performed from > underneath > the car? Yes. Jim Bassett
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#2. Re: CEL at WOT - from kim.burgess@att.net
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Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 01:28:45 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: Re: CEL at WOT Without a model year and a code this is tough. But potentially you are getting code/CEL from an knock sensor - WOT in cold air conditions sounds like a possible lean condition initiating pre-ignition. In a vehicle with a lot of mileage I’d expect to see a build up of carbon raising the compression ratio combined with WOT and cold air = pre-ignition. Perhaps the knock sensor requires re-torqueing. KLBurgess -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 15:24:35 -0500 From: kresener@aol.com Subject: CEL at WOT I know the answer to this question already: Get a Peake code reader. I'm going to ask anyway since I don't (yet) have a reader and also hope that someone else has had the same problem. For the last couple of years when I'm at wide open throttle and nearing red line occasionally I'll get a flicker of the CEL. It seems to happen only when it's cold out, and just before my "really nailing it" shift point. I've always chalked it up to colder, denser air and blown it off. Lately though, I've driven the car hard a few times over the last month and the check engine light will flicker at a lower, like 6400 or so RPM. It has been very cold out, though. Should I be more worried than I am? Car feels strong, and doesn't stumble or exhibit any other issues. Rather, it still pulls hard as ever. Damn, I love driving that car! Going to Road Atlanta next week and don't want any surprise issues... Thanks for any suggestions. Kurt Louisville, KY
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#3. Re: Body Bolts for RTA...was Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (or Sponges) - from kim.burgess@att.net
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Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 01:37:09 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: Re: Body Bolts for RTA...was Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (or Sponges) I seam to recall this being reported back just after I joined the local ACA here in Seattle. Brian Horne reported this here locally and I think I recall a spot either in the local magazine or in the Rondel. Best I remember this happened to cars that had been lowered and stiffly sprung. Recently there has been chatter with regard to subframe mounting tears. KLBurgess -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 16:14:13 -0500 From: Robert Manger Subject: Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (or Sponges) Patrick, For what its worth I went with stock bushings and Turners solution to limit the deflection, car seems pretty stable and I don't notice any increased harshness. Which ever solution you choose be sure to have the RTAB mounting bracket (within car body), fully welded as you will be putting more stress on this area which was only tack welded 1/2 to 3/4 the way around. - Rob
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#4. Racecar FS - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 22:21:35 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Racecar FS I have an ITS car collecting dust (I know, join the crowd). I took it as a trade from a customer and I need to turn it quickly. It has well over $40k in it - would make a fantastic JP car as-is. Selling for $15,500 with spares. Will make toss in injectors, chip, and a set of Sunbelt 325 cams for about 20 more Hp (you do the install) for $17,000 FIRM. Info and pictures at: http://bimmerworld.com/carsforsale/ James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com http://www.bimmerworldracing.com http://www.powerflexusa.com Race Proven BMW Performance 877.639.9648
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#5. T-stat and metal housing replacement follow up - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 09:55:55 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: T-stat and metal housing replacement follow up Group, About a month ago I got the List involved with a sticking thermostat problem that developed on the M3. I got various replies (all good info), on temperature rating for replacement. I decided that since I have never suffered a meltdown of any kind to just replace with the OEM. So I went to the Dealer and purchased the T-stat thinking I would do the job myself. Well, the darn thing started sticking again this past week and with the cold weather I decided to have the Dealer do it (I like my Dealer). Point is the T-stat that came out of the car (the original) was rated 92C, while the replacement was rated at 88C. I also had them replace the plastic housing with the metal one, being the car is almost 10 years old. I didn't get a chance to discuss this with my mechanic yet, since I only noticed the difference after returning home and looking at the old parts. For what it's worth, my observation of the T-stat and plastic housing showed them to look totally brand new to the naked eye! I attribute this to using only distilled water plus BMW antifreeze in the radiator...call me anal ;-)) Of course, this is a 10 year old M3 with only 45K miles too! regards, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC, JT Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion
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#6. Re: CEL at WOT - from kresener@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 11:56:20 -0500 From: kresener@aol.com Subject: Re: CEL at WOT Thanks for the several responses, and you were all even polite in pointing out my boneheaded negligence in mentioning that it's a '95 M3, with a Dinan chip and K&N cone air filter! Any suggestion son where to get the protective film for the fog lights? I'm going out to put about the third set in... Kurt Louisville, KY
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#7. Shop for PPI in Rhode Island? - from David Ngo
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Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 10:51:58 -0800 (PST) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: Shop for PPI in Rhode Island? A friend of mine is looking at purchasing a '96 M3 in Newport, RI. Can anyone recommend a shop where he can go have a pre-purchase inspection done? Thanks, Dave
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#8. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Re: CEL at WOT - from marco
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Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 19:16:22 -0800 From: "marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Re: CEL at WOT have you done the "stomp" to get the code(s)? Marco -----Original Message----- From: kresener@aol.com [mailto:kresener@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 9:06 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Re: CEL at WOT Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 11:56:20 -0500 From: kresener@aol.com Subject: Re: CEL at WOT Thanks for the several responses, and you were all even polite in pointing out my boneheaded negligence in mentioning that it's a '95 M3, with a Dinan chip and K&N cone air filter! Any suggestion son where to get the protective film for the fog lights? I'm going out to put about the third set in... Kurt Louisville, KY ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. WTB Staggered 17" Wheels - from Chuck Hanson
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Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 06:57:02 -0700 From: "Chuck Hanson" <chanson60@comcast.net> Subject: WTB Staggered 17" Wheels I'm looking to buy a decent set of staggered (7.5"/8.5"x17") wheels for track use. They don't have to be perfect cosmetically, but must be straight with no repairs. Please copy your reply to my email address directly. No tires wanted or needed unless they are a fresh set of V710's Chuck Hanson '97 M3/4
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#10. Fan removal tips? - from M540
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Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 11:44:47 -0500 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: Fan removal tips? All, I'm trying to remove the belt-driven fan on my 1995 M3 to replace a suspect fan clutch and am having no luck at all. I was hoping to get this thing out without draining coolant and removing the hoses and thermostat cover above the fan but the fan nut will NOT budge. I understand it is reverse-threaded so should be turned clockwise (as when facing the car from the front). So far I've been trying to jam screwdrivers and such between the pulley nuts while turning the fan nut with a 32mm wrench. I've pretzeled two screwdrivers so far and the nut isn't budging. Does anyone have any BTDT tricks or stupid things I'm overlooking? Thank you, Kevin