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#1. Re: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 11:57:42 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts When my subframe mounts wore out I started to hear a loud clunk from the rear under hard cornering on track. I couldn't see anything wrong with the bushings even after I removed them. I replaced them with Eurethane and the clunk went away. Another source of the rattle could be rear trailing arm bushings and rear control arm bushings. At 160K miles they are all suspect. Congrat's on the new enthusiast in the family. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Front control arm bushings - from Weston-Lewis, Graeme
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 11:20:12 -0700 From: "Weston-Lewis, Graeme" <GWESTON@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front control arm bushings You need to press them out. Or you could use the rear bushing technique on Tunnels' website to get them out. BT'S REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS FOR STEPS 6 & 7.... The bushing consists of three parts: aluminum outer, rubber middle, and steel center. (Marco's "Ho-Ho lookin' thing" description above is not only accurate, but wonderful. <g>) You want to remove the whole thing from the trailing arm. Take your drill and make a hole through the rubber portion next to the aluminum sleeve (outer edge) large enough to slide a hacksaw (or Sawzall) blade through. Then cut a slit in the outer aluminum sleeve to reduce the pressure on the press-in fit and the whole bushing will slide right out of the arm. If it doesn't slide out easily, drill a couple more holes through the rubber to allow the aluminum sleeve to compress more. Be careful to not cut into the trailing arm itself, but don't worry if you nick it a bit. Just clean up any burrs with sandpaper or a file so that the new bushing will slide in with minimal interference. The following instructions were furnished by Steve Defendi and closely resemble some of the shortcuts I've been using lately. I've reprinted them with Steve's permission: ......I changed my bushes easily by using a 3 prong gear puller to push the centre of the bush out of the arm to allow the rubber to be cut through. As the rubber is stretched it cuts easily. Once the centre alloy bush is removed a hacksaw blade can be put into the bush and you saw out a segment and the just tap out the rest of the bush. To install the new bush I used a long 12mm bolt with a suitable spacer to hold the bush central. The first bush took 1hr to change the second 35mins. Hope this helps. --Steve Defendi. Good Luck, Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Lee Piccione [mailto:leepic@smart.net] Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 7:02 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Front control arm bushings Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 07:07:57 -0500 From: Lee Piccione <leepic@smart.net> Subject: Front control arm bushings Gruppe, I want to the replace my front control arm bushings since they are showing some age and wear. I have the mounts unbolted from the chassis, but now I need to remove them from the arms so I can have the bushings pressed out. Is there any special trick to removing the bushings from the conntrol arms? Thanks, -lee ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#3. Removing Evaporative Emissions - from geoff atkinson
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 16:55:18 -0500 From: "geoff atkinson" <pskalc@hotmail.com> Subject: Removing Evaporative Emissions Hi All, I'm working on a friend's race car right now, and have found some serious frustration with installing a new gas tank.... The old tank developed a leak. Has anyone removed the evaporative emissions? Any guidance out there with how to plumb it or what to remove? I'd like to get rid of the plumbing up to that additional tank in the rear quarter if possible. My brain's kinda worn out right now... So, at least for the next few days I can't think it out. It is a Prepared Class OBDI race car, BTW. Any ideas, DIY's, or maybe a reason to not do it? Thanks for any info, if it's out there. -Geoff Atkinson '95 M3 (awaiting the start of the winter projects) Other projects
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#4. Cabin Microfilter/Airbags - from Mark D
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 19:30:46 -0500 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Cabin Microfilter/Airbags Hello guys, I just replaced the downpipe to my alternator which was an unbelievably easy job, as well as replaced my cabin microfilter which was a more interesting job for sure. One of the things I didn't think about going in, but did once I got the glovebox out was inadvertent airbag deployment. I read a horror story about a guy with an 01 corolla who triggered the airbag by bumping a sensor while replacing the radio. To me this sounds somewhat impossible. Why would the airbags be armed when the engine is off? In another situation, I read that disabling the airbags is as easy as pulling the hand brake until the light comes on. Anyway, I was wondering if there's any truth to this urban legend, or if there's any way to safely disable the passenger/driver airbag without disconnecting the battery. A hint to those attempting this job: Once you have the filter cover off, the tab is accessible. Push the tab towards the front of hte car to break the seal on the first 1/3 of the filter. From there you have to take a pair of pliers and really yank on the sucker. It took way more force then I thought it would. Also the instructions from Mann don't mention the giant reinforcement metal you have to work around ;) Thanks, Mark
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Cabin Microfilter/Airbags - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 16:41:42 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cabin Microfilter/Airbags On Mon, March 20, 2006 4:31 pm, Mark D said: > One of the things I didn't think about going in, but did once I got the > glovebox out was inadvertent airbag deployment. FWIW, you don't need to remove the glovebox to replace the microfilter: http://www.koalamotorsport.com/article-e36microfilter.asp (I haven't removed the glovebox for this since the first microfilter replacement. :-)) > Anyway, I was wondering if there's any truth to this urban legend, Dunno if there is or not, but I've removed a side airbag and the steering wheel airbag without disconnecting the battery and no problems. YMMV, of course :-) Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP
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#6. RE: [E36M3] "Warped" rotors - from Jason Knight
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 17:54:42 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] "Warped" rotors I drove around with these rotors warped for a month. I finally replaced the rotors on Sunday and the braking issue is gone. I'm pretty sure that they truly were warped. I'm also going to check the rotor width at some point. It may be that they were out of spec anyhow (not sure if that would make the rotors more likely to warp). Still a little vibration in the wheel, but it could be an alignment issue, since the "shimmy" was more like a boogie. Just wanted to report back. Jason --- twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 14:24:13 -0800 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] "Warped" rotors > > Hey Jason, > What pads are you running? I'm more a believer in > pad deposits, as I've > been able to get rid of the vibrations ever since I > started NOT wanting to > buy new rotors anymore. I can usually see darker > patches on the rotor, but > the only way to really test and see is to go out > with the brakes somewhat > cold and do some short, hard braking to see if that > fixes it at all. > > If it even makes it slightly less noticeable, I'd > say it's just deposits and > you can repeat that process a couple of times to > help eliminate it. > Sometimes it takes a few days for it to go away, but > I haven't bought new > rotors for any other reason than being below spec > for a few years now. ;) > > Jonathan L.ww.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. E36 M3 Ignition Coil Packs - from Mark Greer
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:00:59 -0500 (EST) From: "Mark Greer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: E36 M3 Ignition Coil Packs I'm long overdue for coil pack replacements on my Sedan. If anyone has recently sampled the Internet for a good deal, please e-mail me. Happy Motoring, Mark mark.greer(at)excite.com 1997 M3 Sedan 178,000 miles _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#8.FS: '02 M3 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:41:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: <OT> FS: '02 M3 '02 SMG 31k miles Fully loaded minus nav Steel gray w/ Imola leather Asking $35.5k Long Island, NY area http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-3-Series-M3-02-M3-Steel-Gray-Imola-Red-SMG-SUPER-CLEAN-LOW-MILES_W0QQitemZ4621732482QQcategoryZ6131QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I know a friend of the owner.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 19:10:02 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts Stan, Those 2 bushings on the rear of the diff are differential bushings. The subframe bushings are those in the subframe where the subframe mounts to the car. Two in front, and two toward the rear. There is a fifth bushing that's a lot smaller that the front of the diff bolts too, but is in the subframe also. My 97 has ~60K miles, with a lot of autox use. The front diff bushing was torn, and the subframe bushings were cracked. I replaced all 5. The two bushings on the rear of the diff looked OK, so I left those alone. So you may want to look at the subframe bushings very closely. Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 12:28:16 -0500 > From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> > Subject: rear subframe mounts > > I have been hearing a rattle in the rear of my '96 M3 during shifts. > > Upper shock mounts were changed once to JTDs, so those are less likely. > > I wondered about the rear subframe issues others have had, so decide I > would > check it out. Maybe I am missing something, but my mounts look fine. I > would see any cracking where the two bolts on the sides of the > differential > mount to the rear subframe, right? > > > Regards, > Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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#10. RE: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 22:21:15 -0500 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts Thanks for the responses! I am leaning towards replacing the subframe bushings. I have gone with Powerflex in the front control arms and the rear toe bushings. I also have the JTD transmission brace, and am wondering how much additional vibration I will get by going with Powerflex with these. Am I perhaps better off staying with stock, so as not to stress the subframe mounting points? This is not a daily driver. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams