E36M3 #4698

Sunday, March 26, 2006 10:12:27

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil - from dgcrum@jps.net
#2. Re: Transmission Oil - from Don Eilenberger
#3. Re: [E36M3] S50 valve retainer problem - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
#4. Lack of performance improvement - from Lawrence Barbieri
#5. Re: [E36M3] Lack of performance improvement - from Brian Ruiz
#6. RE: Lack of performance improvement - from Lawrence Barbieri
#7. RE: Transmission Oil - from Stan Shaw
#8. When do You change the spark plugs - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#9. Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil - from steve crowl
#10. S50 Valve Retainers - from RFKoby@aol.com

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil - from dgcrum@jps.net
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Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 20:35:50 -0800 (GMT-08:00) From: dgcrum@jps.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil Jamie said: Royal Purple Synchromax in my E36 and E39. Ditto for my E36. I've also used Redline and Mobil One, and I can't say there was a perceptible difference. The RP matches the car, so that's what I've got in it now ;-) FWIW, RP Max-Gear did make the diff a little quieter running than Mobil One. David Techno Violet '96

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#2. Re: Transmission Oil - from Don Eilenberger
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Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 23:50:33 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger <deilenberger@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Transmission Oil At 11:21 PM 3/25/2006, you wrote: >What is everyone using and happy with for transmission oil? >This will be for a '96 M3, with near stock hp, used for track and street. > >Thanks! > >Regards, >Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Royal Purple Synchromax - especially if you live in a cooler climate.. makes the transmission shift cold just like it does when warm. Did my E46/M3 this morning (did the E36 last year when I got it) - it cured the hard to get into 1st cold and 1st to 2nd grind immediately. Good stuff - you need 2 quarts. Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1, PSJ, SquidBOOF#1 deilenberger@verizon.net NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Argue with an idiot and he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience" - Dilbert "The difference between intelligence and stupidity is - there is a limit to intelligence" - Anon ====================================================================

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#3. Re: [E36M3] S50 valve retainer problem - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 00:15:57 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] S50 valve retainer problem Brian, I probably won't be much help but I can tell you that you won't determine anything by just pulling the valve cover - you can't see the valve retainers with just the valve cover off. You have to remove the camshafts to access the valve retainers. Supposedly according to Internet lore, there was a change to the valve retainers starting with or about 10/95 production S50US engines. I say supposedly because I've never seen conclusive proof presented, and I have been watching E36M3 Internet chat boards for over 10 years. BMW never admitted or documented a change to the value retainers. Supposedly BMW changed the surface hardening procedure to give the later value retainers a slightly thicker layer. Regardless, if you purchase new valve retainers from BMW, you only get one choice. As for is it a problem with your particular engine, it must not be if your engine is still running. You will know if your valve retainers are bad because a valve will drop into your combustion chamber. Until then, the valve retainers will work fine. Your bigger concern is do you plan to miss a shift (do you have a manual transmission) and wildly over rev your engine? If you over rev your engine to 8,000+ rpm, it doesn't matter what valve retainers you have - your exhaust valves will "float" and the pistons will slam into the valves. If you don't over rev your engine, you probably won't have a problem with your original valve retainers. If you plan to start racing your 11 year old engine, you have other bigger things to worry about. I would recommend you freshen up the top end before you start spending 50% of your time at redline. I would start with new valve springs among other things. However, if you are just going to drive your M3 normally on the street, I would enjoy your M and not worry about replacing the valve retainers. Lowell Seaton 9/95 M3 -------------------------------------------- In a message dated 3/25/06 10:12:26 PM Central Standard Time, eurowerke@gmail.com writes: I was wondering if anyone had more information about the valve retainer problem. I know little about it other than that it was/is a problem. Was it ever solved during the production run, or is it only evident now after our cars have become older? Is there any way to know if my engine has had the retainers replaced other than to pull the valve cover?

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#4. Lack of performance improvement - from Lawrence Barbieri
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 02:31:15 -0500 From: "Lawrence Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> Subject: Lack of performance improvement I have a 95 M3. Back in Nov. I had it put on a Dyno, at that time I had done no performance upgrades. The results showed peak HP in the range 212-216 (on one pull it actually hit 220) and peak torque at 202-203 ft-lbs. Over the winter I installed a Conforti cold air intake, Euro HFM, 24lb fuel injectors and a chip to match all of that (chip came from Turner, but I believe it is still the Conforti chip). This is Bimmerworld's Stage II kit. Car was back at the Dyno today. Over 4 pulls on the Dyno the car showed very little increase in HP. It was consistently in the 216-218 range (and never hit 220 again!) and the torque curve was slightly higher across the lower rpm band, maybe 5-7 ft-lbs. (I don't have all the data yet to give actual values here). I have to say, I was pretty disappointed after spending $1200 on perfomance upgrades to see that small of an improvement. I expected something more like a 20HP boost, but would have been happy even if it was only 10HP or so. Has anyone else had this experience? Is there something I should check? Any ideas on why the improvements were so marginal? Thanks, Larry -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.1/292 - Release Date: 3/24/2006

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Lack of performance improvement - from Brian Ruiz
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 00:14:50 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lack of performance improvement Lawrence, You made no mention of consistency of your test conditions. Where do you live? East coast/west coast? Did you do both dyno runs on the same dyno? Ambient temperature has a big effect on output of a particular engine on a particular day. If the dyno runs were not on the same dyno, there's a big problem there too. I have never had my car dynoed, I just know these things from the common experience of the group. Others may be able to chime in more. Perhaps you could provide more information about your test conditions to provide a bit more insight for those who know more than I. Also, if you are using stock headers and muffler, that could perhaps still clog up some extra power because of increased backpressure. You can fill up your mouth as much as you can with air, but if you're trying to blow that air out through a coffee stirrer, you're going to have some problems. ;) I can truly understand your dissatisfaction with your results. I have the Euro HFM and intake setup with the euro HFM anti knock chip installed (stock injectors), and the price I paid for such a marginal improvement is unsettling. ..02, Brian 8/95 build On 3/25/06, Lawrence Barbieri <larry@logicalconclusions.com> wrote: > > Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 02:31:15 -0500 > From: "Lawrence Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> > Subject: Lack of performance improvement > > I have a 95 M3. Back in Nov. I had it put on a Dyno, at that time I had > done no performance upgrades. The results showed peak HP in the range > 212-216 (on one pull it actually hit 220) and peak torque at 202-203 > ft-lbs. > > Over the winter I installed a Conforti cold air intake, Euro HFM, 24lb > fuel > injectors and a chip to match all of that (chip came from Turner, but I > believe it is still the Conforti chip). This is Bimmerworld's Stage II > kit. > > Car was back at the Dyno today. Over 4 pulls on the Dyno the car showed > very little increase in HP. It was consistently in the 216-218 range (and > never hit 220 again!) and the torque curve was slightly higher across the > lower rpm band, maybe 5-7 ft-lbs. (I don't have all the data yet to give > actual values here). > > I have to say, I was pretty disappointed after spending $1200 on > perfomance > upgrades to see that small of an improvement. > > I expected something more like a 20HP boost, but would have been happy > even > if it was only 10HP or so. > > Has anyone else had this experience? Is there something I should check? > Any ideas on why the improvements were so marginal? > > Thanks, > Larry > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.1/292 - Release Date: 3/24/2006 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >

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#6. RE:  Lack of performance improvement - from Lawrence Barbieri
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 08:13:12 -0500 From: "Lawrence Barbieri" <larry@logicalconclusions.com> Subject: RE: Lack of performance improvement Brian, Thanks for the input. The runs were on the same Dyno. I live in MA. Baseline was done in Nov., as I recall it was a cool day, maybe mid 30's to low 40's in temperature outside. Yesterday was a slightly warmer day, temps were mid 40's. The Dyno is set up in a large room at the rear of the shop. Fairly consistent inside temperature, there could be some variation in humidity levels. I would expect there to be some environmental variation, yes. But when you're looking for 20+ HP I would suspect the environmental effects to be small compared to that. Yes, still running the stock headers and muffler. I suppose I could see better performance with a better muffler...but that's more $$$. The car certainly feels better by the "seat of the pants" Dyno. But the numbers were unsettling. Larry -----Original Message----- From: Brian Ruiz [mailto:eurowerke@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 3:15 AM To: E36M3@bmw-m.net; Lawrence Barbieri Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lack of performance improvement Lawrence, You made no mention of consistency of your test conditions. Where do you live? East coast/west coast? Did you do both dyno runs on the same dyno? Ambient temperature has a big effect on output of a particular engine on a particular day. If the dyno runs were not on the same dyno, there's a big problem there too. I have never had my car dynoed, I just know these things from the common experience of the group. Others may be able to chime in more. Perhaps you could provide more information about your test conditions to provide a bit more insight for those who know more than I. Also, if you are using stock headers and muffler, that could perhaps still clog up some extra power because of increased backpressure. You can fill up your mouth as much as you can with air, but if you're trying to blow that air out through a coffee stirrer, you're going to have some problems. ;) I can truly understand your dissatisfaction with your results. I have the Euro HFM and intake setup with the euro HFM anti knock chip installed (stock injectors), and the price I paid for such a marginal improvement is unsettling. .02, Brian 8/95 build -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.1/292 - Release Date: 3/24/2006

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#7. RE: Transmission Oil - from Stan Shaw
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 08:51:10 -0500 From: "Stan Shaw" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: RE: Transmission Oil Thanks for all the responses! Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams

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#8. When do You change the spark plugs - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 09:36:07 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: When do You change the spark plugs Group, Just wondering when it's appropriate to change the spark plugs? I'm somewhat anal about changing fluids on the M3, but what about the plugs. I did a plug change at 25K miles and did not feel a difference. Now as I near 50K, I'm contemplating another change, if for no other reason then to check the tip condition. Car pulls strong, no hesitation, no problems (knock on wood). So my question is: when do you guys change your plugs? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC, JT Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil - from steve crowl
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 09:30:52 -0600 From: "steve crowl" <scrowl@austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission Oil I switched from Redline D4 ATF to Royal Purple about 10k miles ago (currently 64k on 95). I did not notice appreciable difference. Both seem to be fine products. Royal Purple was more readily available for me in local stores. Steve

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#10. S50 Valve Retainers - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 11:05:34 EST From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: S50 Valve Retainers the M50B30US (3.0 liter, US M3 motor) had a little know problem, the valve retainers were not properly heat treated. these were prone to failure on high mileage, high rpm, and engine that normally bounce the rev limiter @ 7,000 rpm. when the retainer fails, the valve gets dropped into the cylinder and the engine will self destruct. This even happens to the M3 with automatic transmission. So the car is not being over-rev'd by miss-shift. The retainers in question were updated in 10/95. There is no official TSB from BMW on these, so there will be update stickers, or warranty record by VIN from the dealer. So if the car was manufactured before 10/95, you have the soft, under heat treated, retainers. I have done the update with the head on the motor. I used a leak down tester to hold the valve up while I changed the lifters, springs, and retainers. Did the cam upgrade too ;-) bob In a message dated 3/25/2006 11:22:23 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: -------------------- 11 -------------------- Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 20:10:31 -0800 From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> Subject: S50 valve retainer problem Oh yeah, I was wondering if anyone had more information about the valve retainer problem. I know little about it other than that it was/is a problem. Was it ever solved during the production run, or is it only evident now after our cars have become older? Is there any way to know if my engine has had the retainers replaced other than to pull the valve cover? All these and more are in my head, just waiting for answers! Anyone care to elaborate for me? Thanks! Brian 8/95 build

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