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#1. RE: [E36M3] Broken Ellipsoidal - from jsp98m3
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 07:23:25 -0800 From: "jsp98m3" <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Broken Ellipsoidal Autowerks, NA Motorwerks and Understeer will sell one side only as well as replacement parts including back covers, etc. Jim -----Original Message----- From: Andrej Dolenc [mailto:adolenc@erols.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 7:02 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken Ellipsoidal Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 10:00:49 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken Ellipsoidal You can get replacement lenses, umnitza.com (and probably other vendors as well) sell the replacement lenses for each side. Though I myself am looking to buy an entire passenger side ZKW headlight. If anybody knows of a source that'll sell me just one side (instead of a matched pair), please let me know. Lots of vendors will sell me both, but haven't found anybody that will sell just one. Andrej '97 M3 Mark Greer writes: > On my way to work this morning some trucker launched a piece of wood > into my passenger-side headlight, shattering the lens. Can this be > repaired and are spare parts available? If I need to buy the > entire assembly, what's a good source? > I could put the OEMs back in, but I really like the replacements, > Mark > 1997 M3 Sedan ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* __________ NOD32 1.1452 (20060320) Information __________ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] 32 mm wrench - from Marc Plante
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 10:35:10 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 32 mm wrench Yes, that's a standard bike tool to tighten the headset and pedals on a bicycle. You can probably get one even cheaper at a discount store like www.bikenashbar.com or www.performancecycle.com. If nothing else, these shops offer strewide coupons fairly often. Park tools is a solid mfr of bike tools. Marc Plante E36 M3/4 70k Trek 5000 56 cm (for Sale) Vienna, VA
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 10:53:51 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears > > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears > > I bought a diff from a junkyard off a '01 Z3 3.0 that had not only a 3.46, > but > also the Torsen diff for $570 shipped to my door. =P Now I only have to > build > it and I don't trust anyone to build it as I've seen poor results from > Koala > Motorsports and VAC motorsports among others. Care to elaborate on these "poor results" you have seen? Regards, Rich
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 08:09:14 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears These have all been on Wayne Miller's cars so perhaps he can elaborate. But if I recall correctly, he had a quaife built for his E36M3 and that clunked and whined like a banshee. Every time you shifted into first at a standstill, you heard an audible clunk. I think he didn't like the diff so he threw it into the wall at Turn 10 at the Glen :o) I'm not sure if VAC touched the E36M3 diff ever....I don't think so. O wait...I think they did since Wayne sold the diff to someone he had VAC look at it and they claimed that it was installed grossly out of spec. Hahaha...one should talk, right? To replace said wrecked car, Wayne got a pee yella E46M3 and had VAC install the 3.91 ring and pinion gearset. That whined as well and the donor diff they used didn't work correctly so he had to bring it back for them to service it. They claimed that this time they got it right...whine city as well. Wayne claims he saw a wear pattern on the teeth, but I can't confirm since I never saw it. Chester --- Rich Dorffer <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> wrote: > > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears > > > > I bought a diff from a junkyard off a '01 Z3 3.0 that had not only a 3.46, > > but > > also the Torsen diff for $570 shipped to my door. =P Now I only have to > > build > > it and I don't trust anyone to build it as I've seen poor results from > > Koala > > Motorsports and VAC motorsports among others. > > > Care to elaborate on these "poor results" you have seen?
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#5. RE: Gears....was Cams - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 08:17:05 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Gears....was Cams Well that should make it easier. Starting with a $10K car and turning it into a $5K 'special interest' car has got to be easier than starting with a $40K car.....as you would have been doing six years ago. But I was under the impression that 5th in a 5spd and 6th in the 6spd had the same overdrive with closer ratios so that one could carry a higher final drive ratio for top speed and get good run up through the gears? KLBurgess -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 06:53:37 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears I think he was using traditional "low gear" speak :) O, I also plan on installing a 6-speed tranny to gain back the overdrive. I can't believe I'm dumping more $$$ into the POS!!! Chester --- Paul L Fisher <bmw@paul-fisher.com> wrote: Depends what you mean by 'lower'. If you put in numerically higher gears (go from a 3.60 to a 4.10), your acceleration will go up but your top speed will go down, as well as your MPG. If you put in a lower gear (go from 3.60 to 3.10), your theoretical top speed will be higher but your acceleration will suffer. Potentially your MPG will go up as well.
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#6. RE: Gears....was Cams - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 08:22:29 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Gears....was Cams Nope, iirc, 1st through 5th are the same between the 5-sp and 6-sp. The 6-sp has the true overdrive. Chester --- "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > Well that should make it easier. Starting with a $10K car and turning it > into a $5K 'special interest' car has got to be easier than starting > with a $40K car.....as you would have been doing six years ago. > > But I was under the impression that 5th in a 5spd and 6th in the 6spd > had the same overdrive with closer ratios so that one could carry a > higher final drive ratio for top speed and get good run up through the > gears?
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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: Gears....was Cams - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 11:27:24 -0500 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Gears....was Cams > But I was under the impression that 5th in a 5spd and 6th in the 6spd had the same overdrive with closer ratios so that one could carry a higher final drive ratio for top speed and get good run up through the gears? You would be under the wrong impression - 1st-5th are the same in the 6 speed as the 1st-5th in the 5 speed. Sixth is an overdrive. My E36 with the 3.46 and the 6 speed was great. On another note, the E36 6 speed and the E46 6 speed look almost identical EXCEPT for the input shaft size on the E46 is larger. -Wayne
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#8. To Sway or Not to Sway - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 11:58:58 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: To Sway or Not to Sway Gruppe, I have worked out most of the bugs (almost) in my to be raced soon I Stock M3. However, the rear swaybar issue is currently on my mind and I would like to get some feedback/opinion. Current setup: 700lbs front springs with matched shortened/revalved Turner Bilstiens. 800lbs rear springs " " " " (Part of the I Stock suspension turner sells). Front bar 26mm UUC currently set on full soft. Front camber -3.5 with 0 toe Rear camber -2.2 with 1/16" toe in. With the 24mm rear bar set to full soft, the car was extremely twitchy. Corner entry was relatively okay but right at apex the rear end was stepping out. I had James Clay drive out the car at Sebring to confirm its not just my lack of experience driving this thing. We then disconnected the rear bar. Car was a lot more fun. However, testing it out at DE @ Road Atlanta (at present my home track). The car definitely pushes (slightly) and the rear end is quite planted. The rear end seems to roll a lot (lean) whereas the front end is stiff. Before I toy around too much: Three Questions: 1) Feedback on rear bar removal (based on your experience) and if my current spring setup is okay to handle it (is there a threshold or front rear bais where the bar disconnect should come in?) 2) Due to the camber angle (E36) the front bar set to full stiff eliminates understeers (holds true unless you run stiffer springs). Would this hold true with the high springs I am running? 3) I would like to try different bars and was wondering what is the smallest rear bar I can throw in this car (I have heard that the 318 E36 rear bar is only 18mm) comments/suggestions? Lutfy #75 IS
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#9. Re: [E36M3] RE: Gears....was Cams - from Richard Harden
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 12:10:33 -0500 From: "Richard Harden" <roguem3@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Gears....was Cams 5th gear in both the 5-speed box and 6-speed box is 1:1 6th in the 6-speed box is .83:1 The ratios are very similar up to an including 5th between the 2 boxes. (with 6th being a true overdrive in the 6-speed box) -Richard On 3/29/06, Burgess, Kim L <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 08:17:05 -0800 > From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> > Subject: RE: Gears....was Cams > > Well that should make it easier. Starting with a $10K car and turning it > into a $5K 'special interest' car has got to be easier than starting > with a $40K car.....as you would have been doing six years ago. > > But I was under the impression that 5th in a 5spd and 6th in the 6spd > had the same overdrive with closer ratios so that one could carry a > higher final drive ratio for top speed and get good run up through the > gears? > > KLBurgess >
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#10. RE: [E36M3] To Sway or Not to Sway - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 12:16:43 -0500 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] To Sway or Not to Sway Before you toy around too much how fast was the car at Road Atlanta? What did the data show? If it was fast at your home track and felt as good as you described it then I wouldn't change anything. It sounds like you finally have a good setup. The E36 cars tend to have some understeer dialed into them and it is hard to get out according to the IStock class rules. At this point you have a setup that has felt good at two different tracks that are completely different. Don't change a thing. Drive it and go race! Seth Thomas www.bimmerworldracing.com -----Original Message----- From: Ahmad Lutfeali [mailto:m3_racer99@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 12:01 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] To Sway or Not to Sway Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 11:58:58 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: To Sway or Not to Sway Gruppe, I have worked out most of the bugs (almost) in my to be raced soon I Stock M3. However, the rear swaybar issue is currently on my mind and I would like to get some feedback/opinion. Current setup: 700lbs front springs with matched shortened/revalved Turner Bilstiens. 800lbs rear springs " " " " (Part of the I Stock suspension turner sells). Front bar 26mm UUC currently set on full soft. Front camber -3.5 with 0 toe Rear camber -2.2 with 1/16" toe in. With the 24mm rear bar set to full soft, the car was extremely twitchy. Corner entry was relatively okay but right at apex the rear end was stepping out. I had James Clay drive out the car at Sebring to confirm its not just my lack of experience driving this thing. We then disconnected the rear bar. Car was a lot more fun. However, testing it out at DE @ Road Atlanta (at present my home track). The car definitely pushes (slightly) and the rear end is quite planted. The rear end seems to roll a lot (lean) whereas the front end is stiff. Before I toy around too much: Three Questions: 1) Feedback on rear bar removal (based on your experience) and if my current spring setup is okay to handle it (is there a threshold or front rear bais where the bar disconnect should come in?) 2) Due to the camber angle (E36) the front bar set to full stiff eliminates understeers (holds true unless you run stiffer springs). Would this hold true with the high springs I am running? 3) I would like to try different bars and was wondering what is the smallest rear bar I can throw in this car (I have heard that the 318 E36 rear bar is only 18mm) comments/suggestions? Lutfy #75 IS ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************