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#1. Broken Ellipsoidal - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:08:05 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Broken Ellipsoidal > > Andrej wrote> Though I myself am looking to buy an entire passenger side > ZKW > headlight. If anybody knows of a source that'll sell me just one side > (instead of a matched pair), please let me know. Lots of vendors will > sell me both, but haven't found anybody that will sell just one. You can buy the ZKW freeform or the ellipsoid headlight for $325.00 retail from BMW, I can get them for about $250 each. Mark Greer writes: > > > On my way to work this morning some trucker launched a piece of wood > > into my passenger-side headlight, shattering the lens. Can this be > > repaired and are spare parts available? If I need to buy the > > entire assembly, what's a good source? You can buy just the lens for $119.00 retail from BMW, I can get new OE BMW euro lenses for $90. Regards, Rich
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#2. RE: To Sway or Not to Sway - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:12:39 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: To Sway or Not to Sway Seth, To be quite honest, it felt weird understeering into T12, T1 and T6. I was able to put the power down sooner at T7 much sooner (trail brake heavy in and floor the pedal to rotate and power on) which sets me up PERFECTLY for the back straight. The only data I had was from the lap timer and it showed a 2 second improvement over my previous unvalved Bilsteins/H&R Race on same NASTY "PIRELLI CORSA Glorified should be 500 tread wear" tires. Do you guys run the rear bars on the race car? When BW used to sell the IS setup, they had it listed to remove the rear bar. You are probably right about 'shut up and race'. Every now and then I get the urge to try different setup after hanging out with the Georgia Tech guys and then you slap me at the back of the head and bring me back to reality. Thank you my old friend ;) Already signed up for May race at Barber :) Ahmad
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#3. Was Cams....Now Gears - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:19:19 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: Was Cams....Now Gears > On 3/29/06, E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> wrote: > Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 08:09:14 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was Cams....Now Gears > > These have all been on Wayne Miller's cars so perhaps he can elaborate. But if > I recall correctly, he had a quaife built for his E36M3 and that clunked and > whined like a banshee. Every time you shifted into first at a standstill, you > heard an audible clunk. I think he didn't like the diff so he threw it into > the wall at Turn 10 at the Glen :o) I'm not sure if VAC touched the E36M3 diff > ever....I don't think so. O wait...I think they did since Wayne sold the diff > to someone he had VAC look at it and they claimed that it was installed grossly > out of spec. Hahaha...one should talk, right? I may one day get a Quaife for my E36 M3 and would likely use KoalaMotorsport so I sent this to them for their response. If I was spending this kind of money (as I would likely do the six speed at the same time), I sure wouldn't want problems, particularly ones that weren't addressed by KoalaMotorsport. This was Brett's response. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: KMS- Brett Anderson brett@koalamotorsport.com If the poster is implying I built the Quaife in Millers car, I don't recall, but I do recall never having received a call from anyone about noise or clunking with a Quaife, so it can't have been an issue for the guy. Think about it, an E36 Quaife would have been at least $2450. Are you going to install it, have issues with it and never call about it? On the note of clunking when selecting first, due to the 16 gears in a Quaife equipped diff, all with a small amount of back lash, they will give a slight clunk, more felt than heard, on shifting into first. Confirm this with Rob Levinson, who has 3 Quaife equipped final drives. Brett Anderson Koala Motorsport ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Maybe Wayne can elaborate or fill in with more information? Regards, Rich
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Broken Ellipsoidal - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 10:20:37 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken Ellipsoidal On Wed, March 29, 2006 5:31 am, Mark Greer said: > If I need to buy the entire assembly, what's a good source? Just one more source, when I replaced both lenses a couple of years ago, I got mine from: > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#5. RE: Was Cams....Now Gears - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:35:22 -0500 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: Was Cams....Now Gears Brett definitely built the quaife in my E36M3 and it was about $2,450 for it - I may still have the receipt. There was a definite clunk when putting it in gear but never enough to bother me to call him about it (at least I don't remember calling) so he is right about that. I used to think it was a big pain to swap diffs (now I have done it too many times with my E46M3 so it isn't so bad) so the problems were not bad enough for me to make the effort and/or expense of swapping it out and sending it back. When I went to sell it after I crashed the car, the buyer agreed to a price with the condition of it being inspected by VAC Motorsports. When they inspected it, they told me that some of the bolts in it were bottoming out so something was never sitting properly - I know it isn't a great technical description but this was 3 years ago so I don't remember for sure. What I do know is that I ended up paying VAC a nice chunk of money to rebuild it before it was sent out. -Wayne
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#6. RE: To Sway or Not to Sway - from Seth Thomas
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:49:05 -0500 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: To Sway or Not to Sway Two seconds quicker is a lot. That is a big improvement over your last time there. Could the understeer you are talking about be accredited to the "NASTY "PIRELLI CORSA Glorified should be 500 tread wear" tires?" We do run rear bars on the WC cars. They are custom made for the cars. The BimmerWorld IS setup was without the rear bar. This was because the rear bars available for an E36 are too stiff for the spring rates ran on that setup. This causes the rear of the car to be too stiff overall and create a loose condition. Exactly what you experienced at Sebring and taking the rear bar off helped. Seriously quit trying to reinvent the wheel at this point. Go race the car and see what happens. It is a fast car now and the more you mess with it without having race experience the worse you might make the setup. At this point you have a proven and race ready setup. Go do it. Quit being an engineer ;-) Seth -----Original Message----- From: Ahmad Lutfeali [mailto:m3_racer99@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 1:13 PM To: 'E36M3' Cc: porsche993@mindspring.com Subject: RE: To Sway or Not to Sway Seth, To be quite honest, it felt weird understeering into T12, T1 and T6. I was able to put the power down sooner at T7 much sooner (trail brake heavy in and floor the pedal to rotate and power on) which sets me up PERFECTLY for the back straight. The only data I had was from the lap timer and it showed a 2 second improvement over my previous unvalved Bilsteins/H&R Race on same NASTY "PIRELLI CORSA Glorified should be 500 tread wear" tires. Do you guys run the rear bars on the race car? When BW used to sell the IS setup, they had it listed to remove the rear bar. You are probably right about 'shut up and race'. Every now and then I get the urge to try different setup after hanging out with the Georgia Tech guys and then you slap me at the back of the head and bring me back to reality. Thank you my old friend ;) Already signed up for May race at Barber :) Ahmad
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#7. RE: To Sway or Not to Sway - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:59:58 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: To Sway or Not to Sway Seth, The two second improvement was due to a) disconnecting the rear bar and b) running a different spring/shock setup. The previous unvalved Bilstein/H&R race with a completely screwed up rake was the worst setup. The car was fairly tail happy and not fun. Same tire with a better/matched setup yeileded helped me shave my time off. Here are some baslines I have recorded over the past three years (notice these are the best times on that setup). 1:47 at RA with Bilsteins (unvalved)/H&R Race with Corsas w/ rear bar. 1:44 at RA with Bilsteins (unvalved)/Eibach with RA1s w/rear bar. 1:45 at RA with Bilsteins (Turner spec)/Group G springs and Corsas w/o rear bar 1:43 at RA with Bilsteins (Tuner spec)/ Group G spring w/o rear bar and RA1 borrowed from another instructor ;) I still have a lot to learn. Ahmad -----Original Message----- From: Seth Thomas [mailto:porsche993@mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 1:49 PM To: 'Ahmad Lutfeali'; 'E36M3' Subject: RE: To Sway or Not to Sway Two seconds quicker is a lot. That is a big improvement over your last time there. Could the understeer you are talking about be accredited to the "NASTY "PIRELLI CORSA Glorified should be 500 tread wear" tires?" We do run rear bars on the WC cars. They are custom made for the cars. The BimmerWorld IS setup was without the rear bar. This was because the rear bars available for an E36 are too stiff for the spring rates ran on that setup. This causes the rear of the car to be too stiff overall and create a loose condition. Exactly what you experienced at Sebring and taking the rear bar off helped. Seriously quit trying to reinvent the wheel at this point. Go race the car and see what happens. It is a fast car now and the more you mess with it without having race experience the worse you might make the setup. At this point you have a proven and race ready setup. Go do it. Quit being an engineer ;-) Seth -----Original Message----- From: Ahmad Lutfeali [mailto:m3_racer99@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 1:13 PM To: 'E36M3' Cc: porsche993@mindspring.com Subject: RE: To Sway or Not to Sway Seth, To be quite honest, it felt weird understeering into T12, T1 and T6. I was able to put the power down sooner at T7 much sooner (trail brake heavy in and floor the pedal to rotate and power on) which sets me up PERFECTLY for the back straight. The only data I had was from the lap timer and it showed a 2 second improvement over my previous unvalved Bilsteins/H&R Race on same NASTY "PIRELLI CORSA Glorified should be 500 tread wear" tires. Do you guys run the rear bars on the race car? When BW used to sell the IS setup, they had it listed to remove the rear bar. You are probably right about 'shut up and race'. Every now and then I get the urge to try different setup after hanging out with the Georgia Tech guys and then you slap me at the back of the head and bring me back to reality. Thank you my old friend ;) Already signed up for May race at Barber :) Ahmad
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#8. [E36M3] RE: impact gun (Update) - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 17:54:40 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] RE: impact gun (Update) Folks Gruppe, Pepboys are having a sale on their impact gun (1/2 inch 24V with 170lb impact force). I used it 2 weekends ago (Bernardo Payet from this list had it) and the price is even more smoking. $79 after $10 mail in rebate. As Krik would put it, this would be a DP (Daytona Prototype) Classed gun. Ahmad IS Car DP Gun -----Original Message----- From: Kirk [mailto:admranger@earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 3:19 PM To: m3_racer99@hotmail.com Cc: e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: impact gun Some DS students swear by the cheapo harbor freight ones b/c they are so cheap you can go through 4 of them before ever getting to Snap On money. Me, I've got an old 12v Snap On w/14.4 battery (that makes it go into prepared class, I think). My 12v battery just died and I had to get a new 14.4 (charger won't support 18v battery or I'd have moved into a full mod class gun). Around $100 for the battery which is more than the 18v HF setup, if I remember correctly... Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#9. FS: 1998 M3/4 - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 17:13:35 -0600 From: "Kris Welhart" <motorsports@stroco.com> Subject: FS: 1998 M3/4 1998 BMW M3 Sedan White/ Grey leather, auto transmission, 96,000 miles, Power seats Cruise Sunroof Brand new tires Harmon Kardon 10 speaker stereo 6 disc CD player Koni shocks Eibach springs M5 style 17" wheels Cold air intake Trailing arm bushings replaced Radiator/ water pump replaced Stainless brake lines Mobil 1 Zaino Lexol Great mechanicals Non smoker Meticulously maintained by former technical advisor for the St. Louis BMW Club. Kart racing venture forces sale. Oil testing results available. $14,950 -- call Kris @ 314-458-3475 or email motorsports@stroco.com. Send email for fast response with pictures.
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#10. I'm looking for springs/swaybar - from Lee Piccione
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 18:53:53 -0500 From: Lee Piccione <leepic@smart.net> Subject: I'm looking for springs/swaybar Gruppe, I'm looking for the following items: - OEM E36 M3 rear swaybar - 2 pair of race springs H&R 60mm, 150-100 and 150-110 or 6"L 2.5"ID, 550# and 600# Need to do some tuning on the suspension... Thanks, Lee '95 M3 Violet
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#11. Torque Specifications - from Mark D.
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 18:53:58 -0500 From: "Mark D." <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Torque Specifications Hey guys, Going to be going in for work on a 1996 M3, S52. Was wondering if anyone knew torque specifications for the front lower control arm brackets (2 large bolts), and the 3 bolts on the thermostat housing (when installing a plastic replacement). Also looking for torque on the 2 nuts that hold the rear shock mount up, as well as the lock nut on the top of the shock itself. Already found spec for the large bolt at the bottom of the rear shock. Thanks for any and all help, Anything I can't find I'll just snug up tight. Thanks, Mark