E36M3 #4709

Thursday, March 30, 2006 15:12:30

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Installing RTAB Shims? - from twisty M3
#2. Re: [E36M3] Torque Specifications - from Jim Bassett
#3. Re: [E36M3] Torque Specifications - from Mark D.
#4. Its been a while - from Alex Demsky
#5. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Patrick Goss - PA
#6. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Alex Demsky
#7. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Jim Bassett
#8. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Patrick Goss - PA
#9. WTB: 3-Spoke Slip Ring - from Raza Uddin
#10. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Alex Demsky
#11. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Jim Bassett

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#1. Installing RTAB Shims? - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 16:10:48 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Installing RTAB Shims? I recently made the move to TC Kline's delrin bushings for the front control arms and rear trailing arms. The rears came with shims, which apparently weren't made of stainless steel and have been the cause (I believe) of a lot of whacky noise lately. They've just recently sent out replacement stainless steel washers/shims and since the bushing doesn't have to be removed, I'd rather not pay someone to do it. Is it a fairly easy job getting in there to just replace the shims? Any special-sized fasteners I should be aware of? Also, could this be done with the car on ramps so the suspension is loaded, or is it best to have the suspension at full droop? Thanks, Jonathan L.

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Torque Specifications - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 16:18:24 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Torque Specifications On Wed, March 29, 2006 4:01 pm, Mark D. said: > Also looking for torque on the 2 nuts that hold the rear shock mount up, From memory: 13ft-lbs. > as well as the lock nut on the top of the shock itself. Same source: 10ft-lbs. :-) Jim Bassett

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Torque Specifications - from Mark D.
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Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 19:30:25 -0500 From: "Mark D." <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Torque Specifications On Wed, 2006-03-29 at 19:25 -0500, Lee Piccione wrote: > Mark D. wrote: > > >Going to be going in for work on a 1996 M3, S52. Was wondering if > >anyone knew torque specifications for the front lower control arm > > > > > What do you mean 'brackets'? Are you talking about the bushing mounts > that are > on the rear of the front control arms? > The control arms are held to the crossmember @ 62 ft/lbs > The 'lollipop' on the rear of the control arm is bolted to the chassis @ > 34 ft/lbs > > >brackets (2 large bolts), and the 3 bolts on the thermostat housing > >(when installing a plastic replacement). > > > >Also looking for torque on the 2 nuts that hold the rear shock mount up, > > > > > >as well as the lock nut on the top of the shock itself. Already found > >spec for the large bolt at the bottom of the rear shock. > > > >Thanks for any and all help, > > > >Anything I can't find I'll just snug up tight. > > > >Thanks, > >Mark I meant the bracket that contains the large control arm bushings (which I am replacing) and is held to the chassis with 2 large bolts on each side. Which I think you gave to me. Thanks, Mark

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#4. Its been a while - from Alex Demsky
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 13:12:30 -0500 From: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> Subject: Its been a while Hey all, Its been a long while since I posted on here. Hello to people I know before, hello to those that I dont. Anyway the other day I finally took apart my supercharger tubing and valve cover to look for (one) of my oil leaks. Found that the bolts that hold the valve cover down werent torqued properly and that the gasket that goes around the inside of the spark plugs wasnt seated properly either. So I put everything back together and Its running fabulous. Havent felt it this good in a year or so making solid consistant boost. So today, I reinspect the engine bay (after have taken it out for about 5 good drives) and discover that I had forgotten to put the MAF connector back on. Now, why was the car running so well these past days without any hesitation or CEL's? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 04.5 A4 1.8TQ6US ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/AudiA4.html 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly"

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#5. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 12:27:54 -0600 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while Perhaps the CEL light is dead. Does it come on when key at position I? Patrick -----Original Message----- From: Alex Demsky [mailto:hyper_m3@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 1:21 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Its been a while Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 13:12:30 -0500 From: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> Subject: Its been a while Hey all, Its been a long while since I posted on here. Hello to people I know before, hello to those that I dont. Anyway the other day I finally took apart my supercharger tubing and valve cover to look for (one) of my oil leaks. Found that the bolts that hold the valve cover down werent torqued properly and that the gasket that goes around the inside of the spark plugs wasnt seated properly either. So I put everything back together and Its running fabulous. Havent felt it this good in a year or so making solid consistant boost. So today, I reinspect the engine bay (after have taken it out for about 5 good drives) and discover that I had forgotten to put the MAF connector back on. Now, why was the car running so well these past days without any hesitation or CEL's? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 04.5 A4 1.8TQ6US ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/AudiA4.html 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly"

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#6. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Alex Demsky
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 14:33:14 -0500 From: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while HAHA, go figure. Great call. Hooked up my OBDII tool and found that one of my errors was the CEL lamp. Among 2 others that I constantly get too. Thanks, guess Im taking apart the dash sometime soon. Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 04.5 A4 1.8TQ6US ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/AudiA4.html 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly" >From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> >To: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com>,"E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while >Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 12:27:54 -0600 > >Perhaps the CEL light is dead. Does it come on when key at position I? > >Patrick >

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#7. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 11:51:31 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while On Thu, March 30, 2006 11:41 am, Alex Demsky said: > Thanks, guess Im taking apart the dash sometime soon. Just take out the instrument cluster - no "dash-taking-apart" required. :-) You don't even have to remove the steering wheel (didn't we discuss the already? :-)) Oh, and welcome back. Jim Bassett

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#8. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 13:55:52 -0600 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while I make it a habit to watch the cluster when I key on to see if the indicator lights are working properly or not. Replacement of the bulbs is easy. You can wiggle the cluster out from behind the steering wheel. Remove the torx screws first and pop it out by pushing at either the top or bottom (whichever works best). Then put down an old t-shirt or something to keep from scratching the top steering column housing and back of steering wheel. Wiggle it to the right as you turn the wheel right. Disconnect the harness connector cams from the back of the cluster first of course. It's a quick process and despite that is one normally procrastinated like I have. My ASC light has been out for awhile and I keep forgetting whether I've turned it off or not before auto-x runs. People keep asking why I keep turning the car off before I start :) Bulbs apparently are easily found at most places, and replacement is self explanatory when you see the back of the cluster. Curious how an oil leak hindered boost in your application. Not enough spark to max fuel match perhaps. Dangerous. Patrick -----Original Message----- From: Alex Demsky [mailto:hyper_m3@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 2:33 PM To: Patrick Goss - PA; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while HAHA, go figure. Great call. Hooked up my OBDII tool and found that one of my errors was the CEL lamp. Among 2 others that I constantly get too. Thanks, guess Im taking apart the dash sometime soon. Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 04.5 A4 1.8TQ6US ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/AudiA4.html 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly" >From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> >To: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com>,"E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while >Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 12:27:54 -0600 > >Perhaps the CEL light is dead. Does it come on when key at position I? > >Patrick >

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#9. WTB: 3-Spoke Slip Ring - from Raza Uddin
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 12:23:58 -0800 From: "Raza Uddin" <raza.uddin@gmail.com> Subject: WTB: 3-Spoke Slip Ring I recently purchased a used 1999 M3 3-spoke wheel and airbag to upgrade my ugly, worn 4-spoke in my sedan. Unfortunately, the slip ring was damaged during shipping and am anxious to get the new wheel installed. Does anyone have a spare slip ring lying around that they could part with? It is BMW Part Number: 32 34 1 162 111 Please let me know how much you'd like for it and shipping. My zip code is 94709. Thanks in advance! Drive Safely, Raza

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#10. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Alex Demsky
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 16:02:34 -0500 From: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while Thanks for the welcome back. Yeah I didnt mean the whole dash, just the cluster. That Ive taken apart several times already. For the most part its very difficult Ive found if you dont take off the steering wheel. Lucky for me I have a momo which unbolts very easily. In terms of the oil leak being the cause of no boost, it wasnt. I was loosing boost because I had leaks in the hoses. Thats why I took all that piping apart with the valve cover. Figured Id do it all at one time. Oh and how come I never noticed the bulb out is because I drive the car about 1-2k miles a year. Its a garage queen. Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 04.5 A4 1.8TQ6US ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/AudiA4.html 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly" >From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> >Reply-To: jim@jimbassett.com >To: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> >CC: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while >Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 11:51:31 -0800 (PST) > >On Thu, March 30, 2006 11:41 am, Alex Demsky said: > > Thanks, guess Im taking apart the dash sometime soon. > >Just take out the instrument cluster - no "dash-taking-apart" required. :-) > >You don't even have to remove the steering wheel (didn't we discuss the >already? :-)) > >Oh, and welcome back. > >Jim Bassett >

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#11. RE: [E36M3] Its been a while - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 13:06:31 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Its been a while On Thu, March 30, 2006 1:02 pm, Alex Demsky said: > Oh and how come I never noticed the bulb out is because I drive the car > about 1-2k miles a year. Its a garage queen. Shame! :-) I used to drive 2000+ miles PER MONTH a few years back. Now, with the shorter commute & no track time in the M3, only about 1000 miles/month. Jim Bassett

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