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#1. (6) Double Spoke II's with Tires For Sale - from Jeff Bjerke
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Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 12:00:53 -0500 From: "Jeff Bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> Subject: (6) Double Spoke II's with Tires For Sale I have 6 double spoke II wheels with tires from a 1998 M3. (4) 7.5" and (2) 8.5" The tires are Pilot sports on a pair of 7.5's and 8.5's and the remaining 2 7.5's have pilot MXX3's. All tires are the stock size 225-45 & 245-40. The 245-40's are pretty thin on tread. I'm in northern Illinois and would like to avoid shipping, but will ship at buyers expense. Would like $200 each or all 6 for $1,000. Jeff
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#2. Lube This!! - from twisty M3
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Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 16:51:01 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Lube This!! Some findings after a fun under-car weekend. For the last few weeks, after having rear trailing arm bushings replaced with TCK delrin and rear control arms replaced with the UUC bits, I started developing a LOT of rear end noise, The diff was replaced not so long ago also, so I was worried that it may be the diff, or that I possibly had cracked my rear subframe. It was getting louder daily and really did sound like something was broken. Handling was perfectly fine, though, and I had checked EVERYTHING I could think of with nothing seeming broken or loose. Turns out the delrin bushings I was sent came with non-stainless steels sleeves. Hard to believe, but either the tiny bit of rust or high friction (I'm totally guessing here) was causing a whole lot of noise. Replaced them with the new sleeves I received rather quickly from Pete at TCK last week, lubed the bejeezus out of them and the rear doesn't make a peep anymore. Now to the front control arm bushings... News isn't as good there. After lubing those delrin units, they're quiet... for a couple of days. After that they creak like an old wooden ship. They're just so darn snug that push any lube out as you put them back on. Any way at all to resolve this? They feel great, but since my car is still a daily driven "track car," I don't really want to deal with that much noise. It's quite audible from outside the car too. Any ideas on how to keep 'em quiet? I'm wondering if wrapping the control arm portion with one thin layer of teflon tape would work. I've never used it, so I don't know how thick that stuff is, but there's not a whole lot of room to have anything on there and get the bushings back over. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Jonathan L.
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Installing RTAB Shims - from twisty M3
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Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 17:06:29 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Installing RTAB Shims Thank you so much to everyone with advice on swapping out those shims for the rear trailing arms. Easy as could be! The toughest part is just being sure everything is lined up properly for reinstallation. It wasn't even necessary to get the arm to hang lower than the body of the car. A little wiggling around and the housing was easy to get off and get back on. Thanks again to all! Jonathan L.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Lube This!! - from Gus Iverson
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Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 19:32:40 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lube This!! What kind of lube are you using? I had good luck with the same Delrin parts using Tri-Flow penetrating lubricant with Teflon. It's taken a couple applications to get it really worked in there but the car doesn't squeak any more. On 4/2/06, twisty M3 <twistym3@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 16:51:01 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: Lube This!! > > Some findings after a fun under-car weekend. > > For the last few weeks, after having rear trailing arm bushings replaced > with TCK delrin and rear control arms replaced with the UUC bits, I started > developing a LOT of rear end noise, The diff was replaced not so long ago > also, so I was worried that it may be the diff, or that I possibly had > cracked my rear subframe. It was getting louder daily and really did sound > like something was broken. Handling was perfectly fine, though, and I had > checked EVERYTHING I could think of with nothing seeming broken or loose. > > Turns out the delrin bushings I was sent came with non-stainless steels > sleeves. Hard to believe, but either the tiny bit of rust or high friction > (I'm totally guessing here) was causing a whole lot of noise. Replaced them > with the new sleeves I received rather quickly from Pete at TCK last week, > lubed the bejeezus out of them and the rear doesn't make a peep anymore. > > Now to the front control arm bushings... News isn't as good there. After > lubing those delrin units, they're quiet... for a couple of days. After > that they creak like an old wooden ship. They're just so darn snug that > push any lube out as you put them back on. > > Any way at all to resolve this? They feel great, but since my car is still > a daily driven "track car," I don't really want to deal with that much > noise. It's quite audible from outside the car too. Any ideas on how to > keep 'em quiet? I'm wondering if wrapping the control arm portion with one > thin layer of teflon tape would work. I've never used it, so I don't know > how thick that stuff is, but there's not a whole lot of room to have > anything on there and get the bushings back over. > > Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Jonathan L. > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#5. FS: 1993 BMW 325iS GTS/JP/Track Day car - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2006 20:56:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 1993 BMW 325iS GTS/JP/Track Day car All right, the boss says this thing has to go, apparently she wants to park in the garage, excellent maintenance and condition, fresh motor, motivated seller, contact for details. Asking $16k Thanks, Mike turgeon1@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#6. standard zionsville radiator 400 almost new - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 09:51:49 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: standard zionsville radiator 400 almost new Posting for a fellow enthusiast, he is upgrading to their comp kit w/ fan but needs a custom fabrication on his 99 z3 m coupe due to clearance issues with the dinan stepped out blower and pulleys... Patrick Quoting larry below: standard zionsville aluminum radiator for sale...almost new...two weeks in the car but decided that i wanted an electric fan and aluminum overfill tank! if you know anyone interested have the email me at lin7310948@charter.net 400 dollars
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#7. FS: 98 M3 Coupe, Redmond WA - from Greg Cagle
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Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 08:17:07 -0700 From: Greg Cagle <gregc@gregcagle.com> Subject: FS: 98 M3 Coupe, Redmond WA FS: 98 M3 Coupe 83K miles Cosmos Black/Black Interior Original 10-spoke wheels w/Toyo T1-S, minor curb rash Power Vader seats with butt warmers Purchased 11/2001 Car is in Redmond, WA $17k/obo This car is solid, fast, well maintained, and looks good. Selling due to household reorganization 8^). Contact me for more info and/or pictures. - Greg -- upgrades and whatnot -- Euro Ellipsoid Headlights w/Sylvania Euro Silverstar H1 bulbs Hella air horns Conforti engine software, CAI UUC underdrive pulleys Rogue Engineering exhaust w/silencer tips Mobil 1 engine oil UUC short shifter UUC RK-6L shift knob and e-brake handle UUC ultrasuede shift boot UUC aluminum pedals, footrest UUC clutch stop and bushing Valentine 1 remote mount Clear corners w/ silver bulbs x-brace Racing Dynamics front strut brace euro side mirror inserts, both sides Sony MP3 receiver w/aux input for ipod Polk Audio front separate speakers Pioneed 6x9 rear speakers U.S. Audio four channel amp Optima red top battery Recent maintenance: Pagid pads and "gas vented" brake rotors stainless steel brake lines New radiator (preventive maintenance) New microfilter New 11-button OBC (pixels burned out in the old one) -- Greg Cagle gregc at gregcagle dot com
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#8. alignment. - from Jim
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Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 09:09:33 -0700 From: Jim <rx3sp@lanset.com> Subject: alignment. Quoting: " I am running the GC coil over kit with 650 rears and 550 in the front, camber plates, and UUC sway bars. (Full soft in front, and full stiff in rear) I was thinking about the following settings... Front: Camber -3.5 degrees Caster - Max it out. toe - ? 0 or 1/16 in on each side? Rear Camber - ? This is the tough one... -1.5 degrees? Toe - 0? As you can see, I am not sure what I should set the rear to.. Any thoughts from racers on our list? Thanks so much! Mo" A couple of thoughts. More caster is not always better. depending on the year of the car, and the year of the control arms, caster adjustment can have an adverse affect on bumpsteer, and therefore the whole turn-in. Forget all that crap about bumpsteer spacers, if the alignment is correct, the M3 is perfect. Thats what you paid all the money for. You can slide the caster front to rear while you are bumpsteering the car to get it set right. If it is way off, you may have to adjust the front control arm bushing. Toe in or toe out, never zero. With the front toe at zero, the front tires will always be "unsure" about where they should be pointing. They need a teeny bit of a hint one way or another for stability. Toe-in for street cars, toe-out for race cars. Depending on the track, somewhere around 1/8 - 3/16 out total. Front camber? whatever makes the car fast. Whats more important? lap times or tire temps? Incidentally, I can't think of any track in the world where the camber should truly be the same left and right. example: 3 1/2 negative on the RF at Watkins Glen is gonna be slow. Find another way to make the front end stick in 10 Rear camber. I like to think of it as leaning on the back tire. At least 2 1/2 negative gives you something good to lean on. rear toe-in, maybe even more than you think. And then you get to have fun setting the toe different on each rear wheel. -- Jay Morris
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#9. Brake duct sensors? - from chipmitchell@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 12:50:23 -0400 From: "chipmitchell@gmail.com" <chipmitchell@gmail.com> Subject: Brake duct sensors? I had an unfortunate incident with some road debris. A large box took my entire bumper off. Does anyone know which brake duct sensor is which, what the parts might be called, and where they tie into the wiring harness? All I've found so far are the fog light wires.
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#10. hoses - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 16:02:40 -0500 From: "Patrick Goss - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: hoses Samco covers upper and lower hoses for our cars, but none of the others hoses as far as I know. Any reasons, why? What's a guy to due when something better than stock is desired for replacing 9 year old original hoses? Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 no radiator, old hoses.