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#1. [E36M3] FS: 96' M3 Exhaust, Springs/Shocks, Sway Bars - from M540
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 19:13:00 -0400 From: "M540" <m540@bellsouth.net> Subject: [E36M3] FS: 96' M3 Exhaust, Springs/Shocks, Sway Bars Steve, Is that a Cayman hiding behind your muffler? Are you offering it in a package deal? (Okay, how do you like it?) Kevin -----Original Message----- From: Tom, Steven [mailto:stom@qualcomm.com] Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 5:36 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] FS: 96' M3 Exhaust, Springs/Shocks, Sway Bars Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:27:19 -0700 From: "Tom, Steven" <stom@qualcomm.com> Subject: FS: 96' M3 Exhaust, Springs/Shocks, Sway Bars I just thought I would throw this out there even though it's only stock '96 M3 parts. M3 Exhaust: $125 + shipping. Yes it has the larger tubing. I took it off around 55k miles. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/stom_m3/IMG_6676.jpg M3 Springs and Shocks: $125 + shipping. I replaced these around 40k miles. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/stom_m3/IMG_6679.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/stom_m3/IMG_6678.jpg M3 Sway bars, bushings and links: $75 + shipping. I replaced these at the same time as the suspension. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/stom_m3/IMG_6677.jpg Let me know if you are interested. steve
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#2. AMF - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 21:43:59 -0600 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@comcast.net> Subject: AMF It's been a fun ride, but as of yesterday at about 11:00 AM, I became an ex-E36M3 owner. I had mixed feelings about the decision 'cause the car works pretty damn well, but I think it's time to move on to more of a track rat, i.e. something with a cage that I wouldn't be quite as upset about rolling into a ball. I've already told the new owner about the list, and he was pleased to know about this kind of resource. The guy's name is Dale, and he used to do a bunch of DEs with an E30 M3 a couple of years back. He'd remembered seeing my car from some of them, so I guess this time he wanted to find out what this "torque" word meant. He's gonna use it as a three-season driver with some Auto-X and DEs thrown in. Later guys, thanks for all the tips I picked up over the years. - Alain (ex E36M3 with MechTech turbo and suspension goodies)
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#3. Do I have an Ebrake ?problem ?solution - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 03:28:45 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: Do I have an Ebrake ?problem ?solution All; I have a parking/e-brake question. Please allow me to explain the symptoms so that my questions make sense. I know that the parking brake works by pushing a couple of brake pads against a “drum” that is an inside part of the rear rotor. I know that it is cable actuated and you can adjust at each rear hub using a “wheel” with teeth on it and/or also adjusting at the handbrake in the car with a couple of nuts with additional jam or lock nuts on it. I’ve looked at Bentley and realoem dot com in an effort to understand the parts that are there and so a little familiar with the handbrake assembly though I’ve never actually seen what the pads look like within the rear disc/e-brake drum nor seen it all work together. So, I am trying to figure out what my experience points to on my car and where the problem may lie. Here’s the deal: On Friday I parked my car in the driveway and activated the e-brake as I normally do and the handbrake pulled up like always, a few clicks and it held. It rained that night here in SoCal. On Saturday, I undo the handbrake and there doesn’t seem to be a problem. I drive the car for about 30 miles and I stop at a gas station for gas (3+ $/gal!). I pull up on the handbrake and it goes for about 6-7 clicks, way more than usual. And, it doesn’t feel like it is holding very well or maybe only holding on one wheel. It takes longer to stop the car while it is going a little with gravity using the handbrake. I feel the rear hubs of the rotor with my fingers and they don’t feel that hot. But I’ve been driving in city traffic for about 5 minutes. I do catch a whiff of brake pad. My visible rear disc brake pads are fine with plenty of life left in them. So, I fill up and drive for about 5 minutes in city traffic and pull into a supermarket parking lot and check the rear discs. Pads are fine but I smell a whiff of brake pad again.. So, I drive home at freeway speeds for about 15 minutes and pull off into a neighborhood and check again. The disc pads are fine, the rear hubs are not hot, and there is a slight whiff of brake pad again. I drive home another 25 minutes at highway speeds, it takes an additional 10 minutes at neighborhood speeds, 25-45 mph to get home. I park the car and check the rear discs. The hubs are not hot, they are merely slightly warm, and there is a whiff of pad again. So, my questions are: 1. What are the signs/symptoms of a broken Bowden cable? 2. If the hand brake is actuated and the cable breaks, does the pad stay in contact with the drum? 3. If the hand brake is not actuated and the cable breaks, does it fail by letting the e-brake pads lightly touch against the e-brake drum or is the failure mode to keep them away from the drum? 4. How do I know that I need new ebrake pads. It certainly can’t be sudden, can it? I’m trying to figure out if I have one broken cable, worn ebrake pads, or just a suddenly out of adjustment ebrake? I have changed rear discs before and I can do that next weekend and check out the whole thing. But, I’d like to only have to get in there once and so want to have the parts and the resolution at hand. Thanks for your help, Marc 95M3 SoCal
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#4. Under panel - from Richard Sperry
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:52:39 -0400 From: "Richard Sperry" <richardsperry@comcast.net> Subject: Under panel I know that since I have owned this car, (11 years...lol), I have dropped more stuff down in the hole of no return. So I really familiar with how the undertray comes apart. A lot of the magazines had the under tray come off at high speed. While I was taking it apart to retrieve yet another "lost part", I noticed that the undertray had scrapped on something, and the lip of the tray was pushed back and caught on the back part of the bumper cover.. This would make the undertray act as a scoop, collecting air and get ripped off by the pressure at high speed. I removed the tray, and found that the front 2 tabs were about to let go. Not the tab itself, but the thin plastic around the screw hole. I used some 1/16" Al bar I had to re-enforce the 4 mounting tabs on the tray. Now the tray is sandwiched, and the mounting holes aren't the weak link. Make sure that the lip of the tray gets put back on top of the bumper cover. I considered using pop rivets, Duze fasteners, screws... In then end, I didn't do anything about it. I figured that not securing it would allow some movement of the parts relative to each other which would be ok.
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#5. Unleaded nozzle socket removal - from Walter J
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:12:18 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Unleaded nozzle socket removal I am sick of dribbling gas all over the place when I fill up at the track. I have these lovely fuel jugs with nice big hoses that I waste by pouring fuel into an awkward funnel with a 1/2" neck that invariably wobbles or overfills or splashes. The closest I've come to a clean fill was using a syphon to pump it in but that is a pain in the a** too. Has anyone successfully removed the "blockage" from the fuel filler neck on their racecar while the tank was still on the car? It looks like the receiving part for the gas nozzle is separate from the cap thread and pressed into the plastic - but I am sortof hesitant to go banging metal on metal in there for obvious reasons. A puller? Molly bolt, slide hammer and fire extinguisher? Anyone? -- Walter
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Unleaded nozzle socket removal - from Carey Probst
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:28:42 -0400 From: Carey Probst <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Unleaded nozzle socket removal No but I found a superb funnel for our cars with a large D shaped opening and a 45 degree bend in the hose so it sits in the filler opening and supports itself against the side of the car. http://www.stableenergies.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FF-D45 probably available elsewhere as well. Carey Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: hcprobst@alum.mit.edu A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. Walter J wrote: > Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:12:18 -0400 > From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: Unleaded nozzle socket removal > > I am sick of dribbling gas all over the place when I fill up at the > track. I have these lovely fuel jugs with nice big hoses that I waste > by pouring fuel into an awkward funnel with a 1/2" neck that > invariably wobbles or overfills or splashes. The closest I've come to > a clean fill was using a syphon to pump it in but that is a pain in > the a** too. > > Has anyone successfully removed the "blockage" from the fuel filler > neck on their racecar while the tank was still on the car? It looks > like the receiving part for the gas nozzle is separate from the cap > thread and pressed into the plastic - but I am sortof hesitant to go > banging metal on metal in there for obvious reasons. A puller? Molly > bolt, slide hammer and fire extinguisher? Anyone? > > -- > Walter > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: JTD UNDERTRAY - Pics - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:38:00 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: JTD UNDERTRAY - Pics >Anyway, heres the link for pics. http://alex.digital7.com/JTDUndertray/ >If theres anything you want to see that I didnt take a pic of, please let me >know and Ill post it up there. In addition there's been this writeup from like 5 years ago on this list's homepage: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/jtd.htm (I don't think those are Donna's hands) :-) -Carlos 98 M3
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#8. check engine light, code P0133 - from tim g
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:34:07 -0700 (PDT) From: tim g <shaggy62832003@yahoo.com> Subject: check engine light, code P0133 so there i was driving normal for a change and i look down to notice my check engine light on..almost had a damn heart attack....so i run it down to my local autozone to use their obdii scan tool. well he hooks it up and says P0133 and i go ahead home to check the code in my chilton guide..bank1 sensor 1. uhmmm....huh. i think it has something to do with the fuel tank but i don't know. it said o2 sensor had a slow response. should i be worried. i did just put on high flow catalysts. but i'm kinda confused as to where bank 1 sensor1 is. plz help it's my baby..:( Tim g --------------------------------- Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] check engine light, code P0133 - from Gary
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 09:45:48 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] check engine light, code P0133 Knock sensor 1, cyclinders 1-3 bank 1 Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "tim g" <shaggy62832003@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 9:38 AM Subject: [E36M3] check engine light, code P0133 > Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:34:07 -0700 (PDT) > From: tim g <shaggy62832003@yahoo.com> > Subject: check engine light, code P0133 > > so there i was driving normal for a change and i look down to notice my > check engine light on..almost had a damn heart attack....so i run it down > to my local autozone to use their obdii scan tool. well he hooks it up and > says P0133 and i go ahead home to check the code in my chilton > guide..bank1 sensor 1. uhmmm....huh. i think it has something to do with > the fuel tank but i don't know. it said o2 sensor had a slow response. > should i be worried. i did just put on high flow catalysts. but i'm kinda > confused as to where bank 1 sensor1 is. plz help it's my baby..:( > Tim g > > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates. > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com > Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#10. check engine light - from tim g
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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:59:48 -0700 (PDT) From: tim g <shaggy62832003@yahoo.com> Subject: check engine light i don't think it's that. according to the chilton manual it says verbatim " P0133 o2 sensor slow circuit response. (bank 1 sensor 1) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 09:45:48 -0500 From: "Gary" <probikeguy@probikeusa.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] check engine light, code P0133 Knock sensor 1, cyclinders 1-3 bank 1 Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "tim g" <shaggy62832003@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 9:38 AM Subject: [E36M3] check engine light, code P0133 > Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:34:07 -0700 (PDT) > From: tim g <shaggy62832003@yahoo.com> > Subject: check engine light, code P0133 > > so there i was driving normal for a change and i look down to notice my > check engine light on..almost had a damn heart attack....so i run it down > to my local autozone to use their obdii scan tool. well he hooks it up and > says P0133 and i go ahead home to check the code in my chilton > guide..bank1 sensor 1. uhmmm....huh. i think it has something to do with > the fuel tank but i don't know. it said o2 sensor had a slow response. > should i be worried. i did just put on high flow catalysts. but i'm kinda > confused as to where bank 1 sensor1 is. plz help it's my baby..:( > Tim g > --------------------------------- Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.