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#1. RE: More brake drama - from david kroth
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:23:45 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: More brake drama > What would make this happen? [uneven pad wear] - Guide bolts/pins are hanging up. - Pads are hung up on the caliper/caliper support. The pins can be cleaned with a wire wheel and some brake cleaner. Clean the rubber bushings too. The pad ears and caliper/support surfaces can be cleaned with a wire brush/wheel. Some recommend a light coat of grease on the contact surfaces. This certainly works in the short term but I wonder if it attracts dirt in the long term. I use grease but I also have my calipers off twice a year or so. > The other > thing is on both calipers, the dust shield was > slightly off and you could > see piston. Do I need to rebuild my calipers now? This is exactly what happend to me a month ago. The dust boot let water in and the piston developed a rust spot large enough that I was worred about sealing. I bought some of those stainless steel replacement pistons that are now available through bimmerworld. Very nice parts at a reasonable price. The short answer is yes, you need to rebuild your calipers. The brake system is the most important system on your car. Don't cheap out on brakes. David Kroth david_kroth@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#2. RE: [E36M3] This car is amazing... - from Mark D.
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 14:39:37 -0400 From: "Mark D." <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] This car is amazing... On Thu, 2006-04-20 at 08:18 -0500, Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > How did you get 29? Best I've gotten is 25/26 hwy when setting cruise > at 75-80. I've haven't reset my cons1 on the OBC for the last year or > so, and it's at 20.4 as of this morning, usually it's 19.9 but I logged > some hwy time over easter weekend. My regular work commute is a blend > of hwy/city driving, and I do get aggressive with the go pedal on good > average. 96k total mileage, 20k on plugs and O2 sensors, new 255/40 > tires, 0w40 mobile uno all the time, fan deleted, but otherwise stock, I > should probably get better than what I am getting, maybe its alignment > related or something else, or maybe you have a freak! I also can't help but to be curious. My mileage is a rock solid 22.4MPG regardless of how much I do or don't beat it. It was around 24MPG when I got the car years ago. I cruise at 85-90MPH most of the time. High miles @170K, so maybe the injectors need cleaned. Plugs were done like 20,000 miles ago. It has original O2 sensors.... I also have a fuel filter for it which I suppose could help. Thanks, Mark
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama - from Mark D.
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 14:41:55 -0400 From: "Mark D." <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama On Thu, 2006-04-20 at 08:58 -0500, Walter J wrote: > Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 09:53:42 -0400 > From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama > > Alex Demsky wrote: > > > I see that the pad on the inside by the piiston is worn down to the > > metal. The one opposite the piston still has about 75% left. What > > would make this happen? > > A stuck piston > > > Do I need to rebuild my calipers now? > > At least one ;) > > Don't worry, its easy - google a bit and you will find a good write-up. > My tip of the day is go to autozone and buy the rebuild kits for $3 > instead of $15 at the dealer. Get extras too - in case you tear one > while installing it. > -- > Walter Not just that, I had stuck caliper slide pins on my Beretta which caused the same symptom. Though I don't know the M3's brake parts and the slide pins might be a little different. One thing I do know is that in this condition, braking performance is reduced extremely drastically, and the inside pad and rotor overheats and warps easily. Not good. Thanks, Mark
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#4. Fwd: [E36M3] This car is amazing... - from Daniel Lowe
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 14:47:00 -0400 From: "Daniel Lowe" <blackjackbimmer@gmail.com> Subject: Fwd: [E36M3] This car is amazing... On 4/20/06, Goss, Patrick - PA <Patrick.Goss@gmacm.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 08:17:58 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" < Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] This car is amazing... How did you get 29? Best I've gotten is 25/26 hwy when setting cruise at 75-80. I've haven't reset my cons1 on the OBC for the last year or so, and it's at 20.4 as of this morning, usually it's 19.9 but I logged some hwy time over easter weekend. I usually get some where in the mid to high 30's mpg on mixed driving. I think it might be the 24lb injectors. They've been great for the OBC mileage but it sure seems like I'm filling up more often. Makes me wonder sometimes. Regards, Dan
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#5. RE: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama - from Alex Demsky
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 15:34:15 -0400 From: "Alex Demsky" <hyper_m3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama Do I need to drain the whole system before I remove the calipers from my stainless lines to rebuild them? Or can I just plug up the line when I remove it? Alex "HyperM3" Demsky 04.5 A4 1.8TQ6US ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/AudiA4.html 97 S/C M3 ~ http://hometown.aol.com/hyperm3/Bimmer.html "I think your car is broken, the driver doesn't seem to be working properly" >From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> >Reply-To: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama >Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 13:28:53 -0500 > >Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:23:45 -0700 (PDT) >From: david kroth <david_kroth@yahoo.com> >Subject: RE: More brake drama > > > > > What would make this happen? [uneven pad wear] > >- Guide bolts/pins are hanging up. >- Pads are hung up on the caliper/caliper support. > >The pins can be cleaned with a wire wheel and >some brake cleaner. Clean the rubber bushings >too. > >The pad ears and caliper/support surfaces can >be cleaned with a wire brush/wheel. Some recommend >a light coat of grease on the contact surfaces. >This certainly works in the short term but I wonder >if it attracts dirt in the long term. I use >grease but I also have my calipers off twice a >year or so. > > > > The other > > thing is on both calipers, the dust shield was > > slightly off and you could > > see piston. Do I need to rebuild my calipers now? > >This is exactly what happend to me a month ago. >The dust boot let water in and the piston developed >a rust spot large enough that I was worred about >sealing. I bought some of those stainless steel >replacement pistons that are now available through >bimmerworld. Very nice parts at a reasonable price. > >The short answer is yes, you need to rebuild your >calipers. The brake system is the most important >system on your car. Don't cheap out on brakes. > > > >David Kroth >david_kroth@yahoo.com >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Was This car is amazing...Now - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 14:42:53 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Was This car is amazing...Now I've been averaging 8.44 MPG over the last 1000 miles or so. Two weekends ago I did 380 miles and used 45 gallons of gas. I can't figure it out, except that I was lapping Road America in 2 minutes 48 seconds at the time (4 miles). Do you think that had anything to do with it? ;-) My brake pads and tires, they are wearing so quickly too, any ideas? Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 12:43:11 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama On Thu, April 20, 2006 12:38 pm, Alex Demsky said: > Do I need to drain the whole system before I remove the calipers from my > stainless lines to rebuild them? Or can I just plug up the line when I > remove it? Just plug or clamp the line. Jim Bassett
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#8. RE: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 15:45:42 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: More brake drama >Do I need to drain the whole system before I remove the calipers from my >stainless lines to rebuild them? Or can I just plug up the line when I >remove it? Plug them. I use a valve stem cap when in a pinch and I'm always in a pinch so that's what I use. I haven't been successful with the saran wrapped cap on the reservoir which is another method to slow the dribbles once you remove the caliper. -Carlos.
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Was This car is amazing...Now - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 13:08:07 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Was This car is amazing...Now Sure. Your M3 is too heavy. Buy an Elise. :) -----Original Message----- My brake pads and tires, they are wearing so quickly too, any ideas? Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#10. [E36M3] Front suspension clunkage - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 13:12:57 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] Front suspension clunkage I have a 98 M3/4 with the Ground Control race/serious track kit (whatever that means). Anyway, I'm gettiong a pretty significant rattling/clunking from the right front. I checked and torqued the front sway bar end links (Eibach bars with OEM links), the lower and upper strut bolts/nuts, I have removed and lubed the GC CC plates, and upper spring hatrs where they contact the spring. I run the hybrid hats FWIW. I have also hit the top nut on the strut with the impact wrench. Still have the noise as I go over bumps and rough pavement while turning or going in a straight line. This started happening all at once. It isn not something that gradually got worse. I will pull the CC plate one more time and recheck the bearings and relube. Is there a bolt that holds the strut insert in the strut body that could come loose or something? Control arm issue. Any ideas would be appreciated! Dave DeBuhr 98 M3/4 ps, yes I checked my lugnuts. ;-)