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#1. RE:looking for cloth seat covers - from David Flanary
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 10:42:26 -0700 From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> Subject: RE:looking for cloth seat covers I have some of these seat covers. They came from "seatsavers" Try a Google search to find them. Mine are now 7 years old an have held up well. A good buy at $100 IIRC. Dave -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 01:32:57 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: 95M3: Looking for 95M3 HFM and airbox, also black cloth vader seat covers All; Hope everyone is well. I’m looking for a couple of items for my 1995 M3, build date 8/95 that someone might have removed when upgrading, converting, or selling their 95M3 OBD1, 3.0 liter cars: 1. A stock 95 HFM for 3.0 liter OBD1 M3 known to be working when removed. 2. A stock 95 airbox for 3.0 liter OBD1 M3; without the air filter is fine. 3. Black seat covers for vader seats. Some of the longer term listers will remember a group buy from 5+ years ago from a company in Florida that made cloth seat covers with a section that fit the seating surface / seat back combination and a separate piece that fit the head rests. There were the 3 BMW Motorsport colors sewn into one of the corners of the seat back. I’m looking for either just the driver side in good condition or both driver and passenger sides in good condition, black color cloth. Thanks, Marc 95M3
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#2. Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... - from scott noltensmeier
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 10:50:40 -0700 (PDT) From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> Subject: Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... => if my thermostat is "slightly" less than center? I've had my M3 96' (from 116... now 141K miles) for 2 years and it's temperator rating has always been dead center, hot/cold/whatever. I this a prelude to a sticky/sticking thermostat? ....don't want to get stuck... Scott, M3E36 96' 2D Silver.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 14:19:17 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... On Tue, 2006-04-25 at 12:58 -0500, scott noltensmeier wrote: > Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 10:50:40 -0700 (PDT) > From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> > Subject: Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... > > > Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... > => if my thermostat is "slightly" less than center? > > I've had my M3 96' (from 116... now 141K miles) for 2 years and it's temperator rating has always been dead center, hot/cold/whatever. > > I this a prelude to a sticky/sticking thermostat? > > ...don't want to get stuck... > Scott, M3E36 96' 2D Silver. I too have a 1996 E36 Silver. Mine was slightly less than center when I decided to replace it, but I decided to replace it when I saw the temperature start to flutter a bit. In my case I was at half and I'd get on the gas and the temp would go way down and that's when I knew it was time. Even after the replacement therm I am still ever so slightly below center which I think is normal enough, however the car warms up WAY faster. I'd say in the first 5 minutes of operation I am fully warmed up, whereas before it could take up to 10-15 minutes. Once it is warm, the gauge does NOT MOVE. This is correct operation. When I replaced my thermostat, I was as careful as I could possibly be with the upper radiator neck and it broke. Make sure you have a source to acquire a radiator if this is your daily driver. You have to take the upper radiator hose off to reasonably get the fan out. A new thermostat housing is also a wise idea, unlike many here, I went with plastic OEM which lasted me 170K originally so I think it'll last the life of the engine now. Also have the radiator drain plug and bleed screw replacement parts available ($2 each) as recommended by many people here. Anyway, I have the same car and I think it's possible that the gauge design aging is what is causing it to be not perfectly centered, but a new thermostat can't hurt. Oh and have fun with the fan, if it's been on there for a while it brings new meaning to PITA if you don't have the proper tools. Thanks, Mark
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 13:22:55 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... I'll attempt to address this on behalf of list. Change it. At 141K and if it's still the original you're lucky it hasn't let go. Retired thermos usually stick open, but aren't opposed to falling apart and if the latter consider the fact you probably don't want small particles circulating in your cooling system! To replace a $23 thermo is trivial, especially on a car with this mileage where a cooling failure or engine overheat normally manifests major engine dollars ranging somewhere from blow headgaskets to remanned head. But to answer your question directly: Yes, right before they completely fall apart, you will notice spastic temp fluctuations. It might trick you and be normal next run, but that's just because the loose piece happened back to an ideal position to operate. It's only temporary and highly dangerous to continue this cat and mouse game. Replacement cost is only the difference between a really good and bad case of beer. Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: scott noltensmeier [mailto:snoltens@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 1:59 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 10:50:40 -0700 (PDT) From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> Subject: Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... => if my thermostat is "slightly" less than center? I've had my M3 96' (from 116... now 141K miles) for 2 years and it's temperator rating has always been dead center, hot/cold/whatever. I this a prelude to a sticky/sticking thermostat? ....don't want to get stuck... Scott, M3E36 96' 2D Silver. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... - from Mark D
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 14:49:19 -0400 From: Mark D <mdlkml@atari-source.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... On Tue, 2006-04-25 at 13:28 -0500, Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 13:22:55 -0500 > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... > > I'll attempt to address this on behalf of list. Change it. > > At 141K and if it's still the original you're lucky it hasn't let go. > Retired thermos usually stick open, but aren't opposed to falling apart > and if the latter consider the fact you probably don't want small > particles circulating in your cooling system! To replace a $23 thermo > is trivial, especially on a car with this mileage where a cooling > failure or engine overheat normally manifests major engine dollars > ranging somewhere from blow headgaskets to remanned head. > > But to answer your question directly: Yes, right before they completely > fall apart, you will notice spastic temp fluctuations. It might trick > you and be normal next run, but that's just because the loose piece > happened back to an ideal position to operate. It's only temporary and > highly dangerous to continue this cat and mouse game. Replacement cost > is only the difference between a really good and bad case of beer. > > Patrick Goss > 97 M3/4 One thing i noticed too is that when I took the old malfunctioning thermostat out, it looked identical to the other one. Perfectly clean, no buildup or anything. The entire engine is impossibly pristine, but don't let it fool you, replace it. And to say it's a $23 job is a lie IMHO ;). It's silly not to replace the housing which is $25 for aluminum or $35 for OEM, and then there's the hoses which you should replace if not done, add $36 or more from dealer, $18 per gallon of coolant, (and you need 2), and if you break your radiator by accident, they're $184 from bimmerworld. Plan for worst case scenario, but get the job done. It's a $6000 engine and you don't want to toy with it. My recent work on my 170K 1996 cost me $550 or so with the radiator being done by my mechanic and everything else done by me (I lost patience after the neck broke off the rad and wanted to make sure the system was burped properly anyway), and the improvement is amazing. I feel like I can trust the car again. I do worry about the original clutch though which feels more slippy than when I bought it ;) Thanks, Mark
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#6. BBS RK 17x8 - from James Clay
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 14:59:00 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: BBS RK 17x8 We just got these back in, 35mm offset. Light and very nice, under $300. They discontinued them on us for a while, but back by popular demand. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com/> http://www.bimmerworldracing.com <http://www.bimmerworldracing.com/> http://www.powerflexusa.com <http://www.powerflexusa.com/> Race Proven BMW Performance 877.639.9648
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 14:29:01 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... Who me a LIAR, Goss's garage has over 100,000 viewers. You're the first complaint, let me log that in our circular filing cabinet. Feeding of radiators and baggage (aka bmw coolant, metal housing, hoses, and let me add the pump) are common sense maintenance items. Many of us knew that before we purchased these cars. Google E36 and that will be the first thing you get back. Many people can and simply do only change thermos without doing anything else, while arguably not the best thing it can certainly get you by. Its absolutely better than doing nothing and ignoring a spastic temp gauge. Fact of the matter the original poster of this question did not comment as to prior repair history or cooling system parts replaced thus far and only asked about the thermo, so that where I focused the answering of my question. Additional note, at 141K, the subject M3 is probably not on the original hoses, radiator, housing, pump or coolant, and again please refer to my 2nd para. Mark btw, the E36 has to be the easiest of vehicles to switch radiators. I haven't seen any other vehicle you can pull the radiator with merely a dime, (although a flat-headed screw driver works much better, just depends if you remember it's in the trunk lid tool case). Patrick -----Original Message----- From: Mark D [mailto:mdlkml@atari-source.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 2:49 PM To: Goss, Patrick - PA Cc: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... On Tue, 2006-04-25 at 13:28 -0500, Goss, Patrick - PA wrote: > Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 13:22:55 -0500 > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... > > I'll attempt to address this on behalf of list. Change it. > > At 141K and if it's still the original you're lucky it hasn't let go. > Retired thermos usually stick open, but aren't opposed to falling apart > and if the latter consider the fact you probably don't want small > particles circulating in your cooling system! To replace a $23 thermo > is trivial, especially on a car with this mileage where a cooling > failure or engine overheat normally manifests major engine dollars > ranging somewhere from blow headgaskets to remanned head. > > But to answer your question directly: Yes, right before they completely > fall apart, you will notice spastic temp fluctuations. It might trick > you and be normal next run, but that's just because the loose piece > happened back to an ideal position to operate. It's only temporary and > highly dangerous to continue this cat and mouse game. Replacement cost > is only the difference between a really good and bad case of beer. > > Patrick Goss > 97 M3/4 One thing i noticed too is that when I took the old malfunctioning thermostat out, it looked identical to the other one. Perfectly clean, no buildup or anything. The entire engine is impossibly pristine, but don't let it fool you, replace it. And to say it's a $23 job is a lie IMHO ;). It's silly not to replace the housing which is $25 for aluminum or $35 for OEM, and then there's the hoses which you should replace if not done, add $36 or more from dealer, $18 per gallon of coolant, (and you need 2), and if you break your radiator by accident, they're $184 from bimmerworld. Plan for worst case scenario, but get the job done. It's a $6000 engine and you don't want to toy with it. My recent work on my 170K 1996 cost me $550 or so with the radiator being done by my mechanic and everything else done by me (I lost patience after the neck broke off the rad and wanted to make sure the system was burped properly anyway), and the improvement is amazing. I feel like I can trust the car again. I do worry about the original clutch though which feels more slippy than when I bought it ;) Thanks, Mark
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#8. Radiator Question -- fluid leaking, should I be concerned... - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 15:39:48 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Radiator Question -- fluid leaking, should I be concerned... Group, I'm starting to experience a "leakage" of fluid which appears to be coming from under the radiator cap and/or bleed screw but hard to tell exactly where. There are signs of dried antifreeze on the black plastic cover and running down the sides of the expansion/refill tank which occurred after this weekend's autox. I've started to look everyday but only find the dry crusty stuff, never wet, and never on the ground. I did need to add 250ml of water/antifreeze to the system after only two weeks and the weather here in PA is not that warm yet. Question is, "Is this the beginning of the end for my radiator (only 46K miles) or is it just the cap and/or bleeder screw that needs replacing?" TIA for all comments, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC & JT-Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Radiator Question -- fluid leaking, - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 12:58:51 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radiator Question -- fluid leaking, should I be concerned... On Tue, April 25, 2006 12:48 pm, mdriver13@aol.com said: > Question is, "Is this the beginning of the end for my radiator (only 46K > miles) or is it just the cap and/or bleeder screw that needs replacing?" Cap and/or expansion tank. Not necessarily anything to do with the radiator, since the cap & expansion tank are separate. Jim Bassett
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 16:08:14 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thermostat Question -- Should I be concerned... >Mark btw, the E36 has to be the easiest of vehicles to switch radiators. >I haven't seen any other vehicle you can pull the radiator with merely a >dime, (although a flat-headed screw driver works much better, just >depends if you remember it's in the trunk lid tool case). Wrong again Pat Goss (btw I hate your segment on Motorweek). :-) A friend (M3 owner soon IP racer I think) said that when he raced his Buick in a roundy round crash 'em up series that he saw a team change a radiator once using only a big mallet. A lil' larger tool than a dime but I bet they did it faster. ;-) -Carlos.