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#1. Radiator Question -- fluid leaking, should I be concerned... - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 12:22:57 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Radiator Question -- fluid leaking, should I be concerned... Bob, Hello. Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but if the fluid in your expansion tank it over the fill line, this sometimes causes the tank to spit a little fluid.. Mo -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 15:39:48 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Radiator Question -- fluid leaking, should I be concerned... Group, I'm starting to experience a "leakage" of fluid which appears to be coming from under the radiator cap and/or bleed screw but hard to tell exactly where. There are signs of dried antifreeze on the black plastic cover and running down the sides of the expansion/refill tank which occurred after this weekend's autox. I've started to look everyday but only find the dry crusty stuff, never wet, and never on the ground. I did need to add 250ml of water/antifreeze to the system after only two weeks and the weather here in PA is not that warm yet. Question is, "Is this the beginning of the end for my radiator (only 46K miles) or is it just the cap and/or bleeder screw that needs replacing?" TIA for all comments, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC & JT-Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion
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#2. Coolant Level Low Error Message - from Michael Michalski
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 12:54:17 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <m.michalski@comcast.net> Subject: Coolant Level Low Error Message Hey Gang, Seems I am receiving a Coolant Level Low error message when, after a drive, I turn my car off. I have checked the expansion tank and even added coolant when it really did not need any and I am still receiving the message. Could this be the cause of a bad sensor? If so what does something like this cost to replace and how difficult is it? Please Advise. Thanks in advance. Michael Michalski 97 ///M3 Luxury Package Windy City BMWCCA
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#3. RE: suspension mod question - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 14:00:06 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: suspension mod question Bob, We need a few more questions. How much camber are you running up front? If you are at the -3.5 range up front, then (not a rule of thumb) you should be running -2.5ish (one degree less; as a starting point). That said, you can get more camber when you lower the car :) I used to run Eibach Pro Kit with Bilsteins back in the days and loved the setup. I was running -2 both front and rear however with my current Group G setup, I have: -3.5front -2.4 rear camber with no spring pads in the rear (with stock arms maxed out) As the car drops in height, the negative camber increases. My suggestions, try the springs first. This way you can get the stiffer springs to help you with the transitions and you will gain some minor camber from the drop. PS: I played around with various spring pads and then decided to chuck away both the front and the rear ones. Luckily the rake (.75inch more up front) lined up as I had hoped for. Ahmad -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:00:46 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: suspension mod question Group, This might be a loaded question, but here goes. Which change would give the biggest bang for the buck, 1) stiffer springs (in my case from OEM to Eibach Pro-Kit) or 2) adjustable rear lower control arms (from OEM to say Rogue or other brand)???? This would be for autoxing. I can tell you all, adjustable front camber plates made a huge difference in my times compared to adjustable struts/shocks or adjustable sway bars. I run close to -2.0 degrees of camber in the rear and can't get more with the OEM arms. I'm thinking the springs at this point but want to hear from those more experienced than me. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC & JT-Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message - from Goss, Patrick - PA
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:16:08 -0500 From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message If you haven't added much coolant at all, maybe the sensor has become disconnected or something. It's on the bottom of the overflow tank, give it a check, have fun its tight down there! It could be dirty too, as the overflow tank is easily forgotten at coolant service time. It could also be air in the cooling system, so just bleed it off. Pull a dime out of your pocket and bleed the air by loosening the cross hair plug beside the fill cap. The service manual has a good procedure which seems to work well. With cold engine and after coolant filled to line on overflow, turn key on, (engine off), and run heat full blast with bleeder open. Top off overflow if needed, and until you see no more air bubbles escaping or coolant coming out bleeder. Start engine and watch gauge until warm. Repeat if additional coolant is needed or something like that, but it's always worked the first time and topped me off appropriately on the 1st try with no air in system. Good luck Patrick Goss 97 M3/4 -----Original Message----- From: Michael Michalski [mailto:m.michalski@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:59 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 12:54:17 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <m.michalski@comcast.net> Subject: Coolant Level Low Error Message Hey Gang, Seems I am receiving a Coolant Level Low error message when, after a drive, I turn my car off. I have checked the expansion tank and even added coolant when it really did not need any and I am still receiving the message. Could this be the cause of a bad sensor? If so what does something like this cost to replace and how difficult is it? Please Advise. Thanks in advance. Michael Michalski 97 ///M3 Luxury Package Windy City BMWCCA ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:14:39 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message > Seems I am receiving a Coolant Level Low error message when, after a drive, > I turn my car off. I have checked the expansion tank and even added coolant > when it really did not need any and I am still receiving the message. Could > this be the cause of a bad sensor? If so what does something like this cost > to replace and how difficult is it? Please Advise. Thanks in advance. If you are not losing coolant it's either the sensor or the sensor connector. I had this warning every startup and shutdown which wasn't cured by a new sensor. I took apart the connector and squeezed the contacts with a crimp tool and I haven't had the issue re-ocurr. I don't remember how much the sensor was, although I can look it up for you tonight if you can't find out by calling a dealer. You can find the P/N on www.realoem.com. It is a very easy repair, you will lose a little coolant changing the sensor and you will probably have to remove the viscous fan so that you can move the fanshroud/reservoir up enough the get the sensor out. Personally, I would try crimping the contacts first it'll take less than 5 minutes and could solve the problem. The sensor is attached to the bottom of the reservior, it has a black plastic electrical connector connected to it. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message - from Mike Frank
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 15:02:05 -0400 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message There's been a couple of good replies already, but I'll second the dirty sensor. Mine was gunked up pretty bad when I did the cooling system overhaul. Probably stuck in the "full" position. No errors, but I didn't have low coolant. It's working great after cleaning. Probably the only thing I didn't replace other than the fan shroud. The sensor had been replaced by the dealer once before when I was getting low coolant messages. Mike > -----Original Message----- > From: Goss, Patrick - PA [mailto:Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM] > Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 2:19 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message > > Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:16:08 -0500 > From: "Goss, Patrick - PA" <Patrick.Goss@GMACM.COM> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Coolant Level Low Error Message > > If you haven't added much coolant at all, maybe the sensor has become > disconnected or something. It's on the bottom of the overflow tank, > give it a check, have fun its tight down there! It could be dirty too, > as the overflow tank is easily forgotten at coolant service time.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: suspension mod question - from Mike Frank
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 15:16:20 -0400 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: suspension mod question I agree with Ahmad. IMHO, there's not a better bang for your buck handling mod for our cars then adding more negative front camber. Since you've got that already, I'd go for the springs. You'll gain some additional camber from being lower and you'll decrease body roll and transition time. Mike Frank 97 M3 > Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 14:00:06 -0400 > From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> > Subject: RE: suspension mod question > > Bob, > > We need a few more questions. How much camber are you running up front? If > you are at the -3.5 range up front, then (not a rule of thumb) you should > be > running -2.5ish (one degree less; as a starting point). That said, you can > get more camber when you lower the car :) I used to run Eibach Pro Kit > with > Bilsteins back in the days and loved the setup. I was running -2 both > front > and rear however with my current Group G setup, I have: > > -3.5front > -2.4 rear camber with no spring pads in the rear (with stock arms maxed > out) > As the car drops in height, the negative camber increases. > > My suggestions, try the springs first. This way you can get the stiffer > springs to help you with the transitions and you will gain some minor > camber > from the drop. > > PS: I played around with various spring pads and then decided to chuck > away > both the front and the rear ones. Luckily the rake (.75inch more up front) > lined up as I had hoped for. > > Ahmad
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#8. Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. - from Mike Frank
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 15:30:38 -0400 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@insightbb.com> Subject: Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. Since we all use tools to work on our cars, hopefully this isn't too OT. I've got some Snap-on Torx sockets that have some rust on the bits. Does anyone have a recommended method for removing the rust without damaging the bit? Also, does anyone have a good Snap-On source? Maybe a dealer that'll do internet/over the phone sales and ship tools (at a discount, I can pay full price off a truck)? Most stuff I can find on Ebay, but sometimes I'd like things that don't show up on Ebay and I can't quite swallow list price. Thanks, Mike
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:37:10 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. Hit them with a little WD40 and then use a small wire "toothbrush" to remove the surface rust. Wipe them off them give them another light coat of WD40 to prevent it from coming back. -----Original Message----- From: Mike Frank [mailto:mfrank28@insightbb.com] Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 12:39 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 15:30:38 -0400 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@insightbb.com> Subject: Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. Since we all use tools to work on our cars, hopefully this isn't too OT. I've got some Snap-on Torx sockets that have some rust on the bits. Does anyone have a recommended method for removing the rust without damaging the bit? Also, does anyone have a good Snap-On source? Maybe a dealer that'll do internet/over the phone sales and ship tools (at a discount, I can pay full price off a truck)? Most stuff I can find on Ebay, but sometimes I'd like things that don't show up on Ebay and I can't quite swallow list price. Thanks, Mike ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: suspension mod question - from mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 16:39:57 -0400 From: mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: suspension mod question Hi Ahmad, I run -3.5 degrees of camber in the front using TC Kline plates. I had the rear adjusted from -1.0 to -1.8 (all I could get), last fall and noticed an improvement. I also have Koni SA's in front and Koni DA's rear with Eibach sway bars. So the only major suspension mod missing are the springs. Major consensus from the Group so far is to change the springs. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC & JT-Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion -----Original Message----- From: Ahmad Lutfeali <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 13:08:32 -0500 Subject: [E36M3] RE: suspension mod question Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 14:00:06 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: suspension mod question Bob, We need a few more questions. How much camber are you running up front? If you are at the -3.5 range up front, then (not a rule of thumb) you should be running -2.5ish (one degree less; as a starting point). That said, you can get more camber when you lower the car :) I used to run Eibach Pro Kit with Bilsteins back in the days and loved the setup. I was running -2 both front and rear however with my current Group G setup, I have: -3.5front -2.4 rear camber with no spring pads in the rear (with stock arms maxed out) As the car drops in height, the negative camber increases. My suggestions, try the springs first. This way you can get the stiffer springs to help you with the transitions and you will gain some minor camber from the drop. PS: I played around with various spring pads and then decided to chuck away both the front and the rear ones. Luckily the rake (.75inch more up front) lined up as I had hoped for. Ahmad -------------------- 7 --------------------
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#11. RE: [E36M3] Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. - from Paul L Fisher
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 15:42:41 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. It is against Snap-On's dealer agreement to mail order tools or to use internet sales. If someone does it, they surely wouldn't advertise it. Paul L Fisher 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU 1989 325ix E30 M20 Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- From: Mike Frank [mailto:mfrank28@insightbb.com] Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 12:39 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 15:30:38 -0400 From: "Mike Frank" <mfrank28@insightbb.com> Subject: Tool Cleaning (Removing Rust ) & Snap-On source. Since we all use tools to work on our cars, hopefully this isn't too OT. I've got some Snap-on Torx sockets that have some rust on the bits. Does anyone have a recommended method for removing the rust without damaging the bit? Also, does anyone have a good Snap-On source? Maybe a dealer that'll do internet/over the phone sales and ship tools (at a discount, I can pay full price off a truck)? Most stuff I can find on Ebay, but sometimes I'd like things that don't show up on Ebay and I can't quite swallow list price. Thanks, Mike -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.5.1/326 - Release Date: 4/27/2006