E36M3 #4779

Wednesday, May 24, 2006 10:45:47

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. tranny fluid escaping - from marty
#2. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from Jamie Howton
#3. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from Jamie Howton
#4. POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust - from Skip Bogard
#5. RE: [E36M3] POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust - from Dave DeBuhr
#6. RE: Automatic transmission fluid fill - from j. helffrich
#7. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from marty
#8. RE: 98 M3 Extended crank times - from Burgess, Kim L
#9. Power window "sticky" - from Scott Spangenberg
#10. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from Robert Brooks

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#1. tranny fluid escaping - from marty
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 18:53:02 -0400 From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> Subject: tranny fluid escaping hi all, I noticed a small pool of transmission fluid under my '96 M3 (manual) today. I jacked it up, cleaned off tranny, and it appears fluid is coming from one of the two threaded holes on the bottom of tranny about 6 inches behind the engine. What are those holes - some sort of overflow? And is this a bad thing or somewhat normal (i've never noticed it before)? I did have the transmission oil drained/filled recently and just completed a 3 day DE at VIR. One or both of those might have something to do with it? thanks, marty

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#2. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 21:05:34 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping > I did have the transmission oil drained/filled recently and just > completed a 3 day DE at VIR. One or both of those might have something > to do with it? The drain and fill plugs are a little further than 6" from the engine however they are located on the bottom and side of the transmission and accept a 17mm socket (working from memory here). The fill plug is on the side several inches up from the bottom. If your trans was overfilled the excess could have exscaped from the pressure relief valve on the top of the trans. It is possible also that one or both of the plugs is undertightened. If you are sure that's where it's leaking from then I wouldn't worry about anything else, however if it's leaking from the clutch housing then you might have a leaking input shaft seal which will require tranny removal to fix. In any event you should check the level again and refill it if necessary. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster - Interlagos Blue (and it's a blast...) 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL

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#3. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 21:15:38 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping > I noticed a small pool of transmission fluid under my '96 M3 (manual) > today. I jacked it up, cleaned off tranny, and it appears fluid is > coming from one of the two threaded holes on the bottom of tranny about > 6 inches behind the engine. What are those holes - some sort of > overflow? And is this a bad thing or somewhat normal (i've never > noticed it before)? I just re-read your post, sorry about the misqueue in the earlier email. Those two holes on the bottom of the transmission are at the bottom of the clutch housing. If that's where it's leaking from I'd say it's transmission removal time for you. I would clean it up with brake cleaner (use eye protection, ask me how I know), check the level and take it for a drive. Maybe monitor it for a while to see if it leaks on the street. I have had my M3 tranny out 4 times for this exact problem, soon to be number 5 because it's leaking again. I think I might have scratched the transmission input shaft on one of my prior 4 attempts; I bought the factory installation tool the fourth time whch was two years and ~40 track days ago. It's not an easy job on jackstands. I have had to replace mine for a month now and haven't got around to it yet. -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster (P.C. Delivery 5/22) 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL

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#4. POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 22:30:40 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skipb@bellsouth.net> Subject: POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust Spot Be careful with this POR 15 stuff..according to the MSDS it is an isocyanate (a cyanide compound). For significant exposure, you're supposed to wear a self-contained breathing device (not just a nose /mouth mask with filter cartridge, but perhaps instead a hood with a long hose running to the outdoors & fresh air source...a full "space suite"). I'd hate to see you leave the planet Jim Jones style. This is from the MSDS: SPECIAL PROTECTION INFORMATION: RESPIRATORY PROTECTION: NIOSH/MSHA approved respirator. EYE PROTECTION: Goggles or face mask. VENTILATION: Use in well-ventilated areas only. Have adequate general exhaust. PROTECTIVE GLOVES: Solvent protective gloves. OTHER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT: Self-contained breathing apparatus if threshold limit is exceeded. - Skip Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 16:52:37 -0400 From: <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> Subject: I too had a small spot develop. I had used POR 15, which we used at the body shop (http://tinyurl.com/nb7xp). Good results, easy to use and has lasted for a few years now. -Steve 99 M3

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#5. RE: [E36M3] POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust - from Dave DeBuhr
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Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 20:44:25 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust I used por 15 to fix the frame on my vette. Awesome product. Came with a cheesy brush and a pair vynle gloves. If you are brushing it on, nno biggie. No significant fumage. If you spray it, that's another story. If you get it on your hands, there is absolutely NO WAY to wash it off. period. Took two weeks for it to naturally exfoliate from my hands. -----Original Message----- From: Skip Bogard [mailto:skipb@bellsouth.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 7:45 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 22:30:40 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skipb@bellsouth.net> Subject: POR 15 is an isocyanate (that is...think "cyanide") was Re: Rust Spot Be careful with this POR 15 stuff..according to the MSDS it is an isocyanate (a cyanide compound). For significant exposure, you're supposed to wear a self-contained breathing device (not just a nose /mouth mask with filter cartridge, but perhaps instead a hood with a long hose running to the outdoors & fresh air source...a full "space suite"). I'd hate to see you leave the planet Jim Jones style. This is from the MSDS: SPECIAL PROTECTION INFORMATION: RESPIRATORY PROTECTION: NIOSH/MSHA approved respirator. EYE PROTECTION: Goggles or face mask. VENTILATION: Use in well-ventilated areas only. Have adequate general exhaust. PROTECTIVE GLOVES: Solvent protective gloves. OTHER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT: Self-contained breathing apparatus if threshold limit is exceeded. - Skip Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 16:52:37 -0400 From: <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> Subject: I too had a small spot develop. I had used POR 15, which we used at the body shop (http://tinyurl.com/nb7xp). Good results, easy to use and has lasted for a few years now. -Steve 99 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#6. RE: Automatic transmission fluid fill - from j. helffrich
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 06:31:10 -0700 (PDT) From: "j. helffrich" <girolamous@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: Automatic transmission fluid fill HI All, I just replaced the radiator on my M3 sedan w/automatic. In the process I needed to disconnect the transmission cooler and lost some fluid. Does anyone have ideas on getting the fluid level right again without going through the temperature and lift thing that Bentley asks for? Thanks, Jerry Jerry Helffrich __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

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#7. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from marty
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 09:45:50 -0400 From: marty <mfraiser@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping yea, it's definitely escaping from one of those holes in the clutch housing portion - the other hole is kinda wet too. I can wipe it off and see fluid come down the threads and out onto the surrounding machined flat surface. I suppose those holes just go up into the clutch housing and fluid is getting into the clutch housing via the leaking input shaft seal? Well, my throwout bearing has been making noise for a while so maybe it's also time for new clutch, lw flywheel, flex disk, output seal, shifter bushings, etc. if the tranny has to come out. Everything is original (103,000 miles) except the shifter bushings at the easier end to get at. Bummer, the cheap parts fail but it's a major pain in the rear, and purse, to fix, especially when adding in all the things you might as well do since it's apart. How urgent a problem might this be? I suppose it isn't too bad if you've been waiting a month to fix yours. Is it manageable for a while as long as the fluid level is checked and kept near full? I guess my main concern now is do I need to fix it before my next DE event in three weeks? I feel I should as I don't want to be worrying about it running low on fluid but that's pushing it. I've not done a transmission yet and that's a lot to accomplish and get back together lying on my back, even with help. Drat, I might have to have it done at a shop. thanks again, marty Jamie Howton wrote: > I just re-read your post, sorry about the misqueue in the earlier > email. Those two holes on the bottom of the transmission are at the > bottom of the clutch housing. If that's where it's leaking from I'd > say it's transmission removal time for you. I would clean it up with > brake cleaner (use eye protection, ask me how I know), check the level > and take it for a drive. Maybe monitor it for a while to see if it > leaks on the street. I have had my M3 tranny out 4 times for this > exact problem, soon to be number 5 because it's leaking again. I > think I might have scratched the transmission input shaft on one of my > prior 4 attempts; I bought the factory installation tool the fourth > time whch was two years and ~40 track days ago. It's not an easy job > on jackstands. I have had to replace mine for a month now and haven't > got around to it yet. >

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#8. RE: 98 M3 Extended crank times - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 07:11:05 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: 98 M3 Extended crank times My 99 'used' a cam position sensor at about 84K. Extended start crank time was a symptom thought a I got a CE light (and a code) - the day I planned to accomplish emissions testing. KLBurgess -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 19:27:26 -0500 From: "Paul L Fisher" <bmw@paul-fisher.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 98 M3 Extended crank times Camshaft position sensor? Paul L Fisher 2000 540i 6 E39 M62 TU Titanium Silver Metallic 2000 M Roadster E36/7 S52 Cosmos Black Metallic 1989 325ix E30 M20 Cinnabar Red - Elkhorn, WI. -----Original Message----- Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 17:43:28 -0400 From: "Avedis, Alexander" <alexander.avedis@baesystems.com> Subject: 98 M3 Extended crank times Recently my 98 M3/4 requires long crank times prior to starting for the first start of the day. If you stop cranking after say 4 seconds and go to restart, it will catch almost immediately like it used to. Once started, it always starts immediately...so far [cold or hot]. Anybody have any ideas or suggestions? Spark plugs? Idle motor? Fuel filter was replaced. Is there a fuel check valve or accumulator I should be looking at? Thanks for the assistance. - Alex - 98 M3/4 86k miles NJ Chapter

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#9. Power window "sticky" - from Scott Spangenberg
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 07:56:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: Power window "sticky" My passenger window will often stop when attempting to close it. I assume there is a load sensor of some sort on the "auto-up" mechanism so it won't crush a hand :-) Is there a common issue with the window mechanism that causes this hang-up? Can the sensor threshold be adjusted ... like a garage door opener? Scott Spangenberg '95 Avus M3 (for sale soon: http://mbrscca.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=968) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

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#10. Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping - from Robert Brooks
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 09:44:24 -0600 From: Robert Brooks <m3rb@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tranny fluid escaping Are you sure it's tranny fluid? When my daughter's E30 leaked from there it was engine oil due to a leaking oil pan gasket. It only happened when the car was parked on an incline (nose up). I don't know if this is possible/likely on an E36, though. Robert > > > yea, it's definitely escaping from one of those holes in the clutch > housing portion - the other hole is kinda wet too. I can wipe it off > and see fluid come down the threads and out onto the surrounding > machined flat surface. I suppose those holes just go up into the > clutch housing and fluid is getting into the clutch housing via the > leaking input shaft seal? > > Well, my throwout bearing has been making noise for a while so maybe > it's also time for new clutch, lw flywheel, flex disk, output seal, > shifter bushings, etc. if the tranny has to come out. Everything is > original (103,000 miles) except the shifter bushings at the easier end > to get at. Bummer, the cheap parts fail but it's a major pain in the > rear, and purse, to fix, especially when adding in all the things you > might as well do since it's apart. > > How urgent a problem might this be? I suppose it isn't too bad if > you've been waiting a month to fix yours. Is it manageable for a > while as long as the fluid level is checked and kept near full? I > guess my main concern now is do I need to fix it before my next DE > event in three weeks? I feel I should as I don't want to be worrying > about it running low on fluid but that's pushing it. I've not done a > transmission yet and that's a lot to accomplish and get back together > lying on my back, even with help. Drat, I might have to have it done > at a shop. > > thanks again, > marty > > > Jamie Howton wrote: > >> I just re-read your post, sorry about the misqueue in the earlier >> email. Those two holes on the bottom of the transmission are at the >> bottom of the clutch housing. If that's where it's leaking from I'd >> say it's transmission removal time for you. I would clean it up with >> brake cleaner (use eye protection, ask me how I know), check the level >> and take it for a drive. Maybe monitor it for a while to see if it >> leaks on the street. I have had my M3 tranny out 4 times for this >> exact problem, soon to be number 5 because it's leaking again. I >> think I might have scratched the transmission input shaft on one of my >> prior 4 attempts; I bought the factory installation tool the fourth >> time whch was two years and ~40 track days ago. It's not an easy job >> on jackstands. I have had to replace mine for a month now and haven't >> got around to it yet. >> > > > > >

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