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#1. Re: CD43 headunits - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 20:44:55 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Re: CD43 headunits And in mine, too. The only "problem" is that it won't control the pre-ibus CD changer. I believe that if you change the CD cable to the later style, change the power plug, and run a wire from pin 7 on the radio socket to the CD changer it will work. I plan to find out in a couple of weeks, and install a Dension icelink at the same time. Martin Bullen '95 M3 (with CD43, no ibus) '97 Z3 2.8 (with CD43 and ibus and factory CD changer) > Date: Sat, 27 May 2006 22:41:47 -0400 > From: "tim ng" <s14realm3@hotmail.com> > Subject: CD43 headunits > > > Steve, you are wrong in that the CD43 head unit WILL work in non-i- > bus cars. > It works fine in my 95 M3 non-i-bus car. > > http://groups.msn.com/M3stuff/yellam3.msnw? > action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=646 > > > Tim Ng BMWCCA # 36497 >
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#2. RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question - from Paul Andrews
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Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 21:46:06 -0400 From: "Paul Andrews" <emosound@verizon.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] New owner, swaybar question Hi Bob, Especially with Jonathan's experience, it looks like I should have them installed, I'll add it to the list! I ordered the GC rear shock mounts, but they haven't arrived yet. The class I plan to run the car in, STU, doesn't have update/backdate, so unfortunately, I can't add the x-brace. I bought a sedan, in theory they're stiffer, right? Does a STB help in this area? Which one? (I found the very nice JTD piece--$549--AAGH!) Thanks, -Paul Bottomless pit indeed.... The car is going to Bimmerworks on Tuesday, should I have them do this right away? Steve says he has never seen this issue, have you guys who autocross with bigger swaybars had issues with the rear swaybar mounts cracking or tearing off? Hi Paul, You will love this list. Welcome to the bottomless pit of M3 aftermarket parts unlimited! I run the Eibach sway bars (26mm front / 24mm rear), and because there were people having issues I reinforced the rear swaybar mounts using the Turner pieces. Good insurance for the money spent, IMHO. I just use the OEM brackets in front and have not had an issue. Also, have you upgraded the rear shock mounts and does the car have an x-brace? I just talked to Steve last week about installing my Eibach springs! regards, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe (sponsored by WCC & JT-Designs) Philly Region SCCA 2005 Philly Region BSP Champion
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#3. [E36M3] diff fluid change - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 22:20:08 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <E36M3Digest@gmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] diff fluid change > > From: "Brian Ruiz" <eurowerke@gmail.com> > > I found some M22 copper washers at an auto parts store, which is the exact > same size as the original washers, so I think I'll go ahead and use > them. I > got to that shop at about 2:55, and they closed at 3, quite lucky. My > only > concern with the copper is galvanic corrosion, but I think that won't > happen > as I don't think the differential is galvanized steel (??) and I'll be > safe.. > :-P The Bentley doesn't list a torque for the drain and fill plugs, is > there a value anyone can recommend? I think I'll go with about 25 ft lbs, > unless someone disagrees. Brian, you will be fine with the copper crush washers (good find). It really makes very little difference if you use copper or the aluminum, if anything, it is the aluminum in my experience that will corrode. Either way, it has never been a problem if they do. I keep a pretty large supply of a bunch of the sizes (copper and aluminum). 70 Nm (or 51.6 lb.f.ft.) is the torque for both the fill and drain. Regards, Rich - back from Mid-Ohio, warm and dry day on a fast smooth track
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#4. My New M Roadster Pics - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 23:33:54 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: My New M Roadster Pics Nice Pics Jamies.. congrats! Regards, Mo Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 19:05:44 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@gmail.com> Subject: [OT] - My New M Roadster Pics Sorry about the cross-post and the OT, but I couldn't resist: http://jhowton.smugmug.com/Cars/191020 Regards -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL
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#5. Something is probably not working right, huh? - from Som Naderi
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 07:40:24 -0700 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Something is probably not working right, huh? Group, Finally got home after a PITA night with the car. Got some issues going on and wondering if someone could explain to me, well, how the cooling system works. Oh and maybe some help with this mish-mash of observations. I'm gonna try to make this as short as possible. Pre-story: A couple months ago, somehow, a few random blades broke off my fan. Don't know how. Not really thinking much of it, I unintentionally ran it lopsided for about a month - til I noticed the increased engine shake during idle. So I pulled the fan. I'm running the Zionsville radiator (increased volume) so apparently it's not a big deal. I was worried about the water pump bearings from running lopsided, but at that point there didn't seem to be any adverse affects. I'm using the JTD block with the SPA gauges and sensors. All temperatures are in Fahrenheit. Car is a 98 Coupe. Story: Drove to San Francisco Thursday night (from San Diego). 7 hour drive. Then drove to Thunderhill on Friday. 3 more hours. Saturday morning at Thunderhill I notice my car is leaking water/coolant. Crap. Yes, yes, I should have done something at this point, but I didn't. I was working on the safety truck anyway. Anyways, leaking is coming from the water pump, but it's slow. Sunday evening - my planned trip back down to San Diego. I fill up the reservoir. As I'm leaving the paddock, I'm noticing the leaking seems worse. Almost a steady (yet thin) stream. I figured I'd give it a go. Rationale: I suspected that, possibly, when the thermostat opened that the *flowing* water/coolant would actually be easier on the water pump seal. I have an oil temp gauge. I figured I could keep a precise eye on the engine temp with this so if I noticed any temperatures out of the ordinary I could catch them quickly and pull over. Also, I had a friend to shadow me for about the first 50 miles in case something went wrong. I get it up to speed (about 75 mph) and I keep a constant eye on the oil temp. It's about 70-75 outside and the temp reads about 170. This has been pretty typical for the car. So far so good. Sun goes down and the outside temp drops to about 60-65 (sometimes as low as 55). The oil temp reads between 158 to 167. Still typical for the car, so. so far so good. I stop to get gas. Water pours *quickly* from the under the car. I get the "low coolant" message as soon as I stop the car. I wait a minute for it to cool, then I fill the reservoir with water before taking off again. I got to Orange County. That's when the water temp gauge on the cluster started moving. It had moved about a half-centimeter to the right. Oil temp gauge, though, was reading low 160s at this point. Therein lies my confusion. My initial reaction was, "well the water's probably low, boiling, whatever, but the oil temp is low and that's really all that matters". But I very quickly realized that that didn't make sense - why would the oil be almost 100 degrees colder than the water? I pulled over, added water, started driving again - "almost home, just a little more" I kept thinking to myself. The oil gauge had gone up to the 170s but when I started driving, it dropped to the mid-150s. The water temp gauge, though, didn't immediately return to 12 o'clock. It stayed at 12:30 or so. It ended up taking a little while for it to come down. Dropping to 68 MPH also helped. So did turning on the heater full blast. It danced a bit between 12 o'clock and 12:30. I figured as along as it stayed "slightly too hot" that things might be alright. But even with the help, it didn't last. I lost the water even faster this time around. I kept my hand hovering over the heater to get an indication of whether I had water in the system or not. When I felt the heater cool to just a warm breeze, I realized I had run out of water. At that moment the water temp gauge started rising again. It never got close to the red, but it got maybe 1/3rd between straight-up and the red zone. However, the oil gauge read high 140s. What the hell? My conclusion: the oil temperature sensor isn't isolated enough to give an accurate oil temperate reading. While the smooth cylindrical part of the sensor fit inside the JTD oil distro block, I wasn't able to get all the threads to screw in. However, since it never leaked oil, I never concerned myself with it. Well, I'm guessing that having the threads of the sensor exposed is allowing heat to dissipate from the sensor metals and resulting in a low reading. Only thing is. again. 100 degrees off?? I'm almost thinking the sensor (or gauge?) is busted, period. Since I was close enough to home, I called AAA and had them tow me the rest of the way. Took them an hour to get there. but what else is new. So my questions are these: - how much disparity can one expect between the oil temperature and the water temperature? - with the amount of movement I described on the water temp gauge, have I put my engine (head gasket) at any significant risk? Again, it never made it close to the red, but it did move significantly from 12 o'clock. - does "sensor isolation" sound like a reasonable analysis of what went wrong with my oil temp gauge? Any and all help on this would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!! - Som
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#6. RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? - from Marco
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 08:11:51 -0700 From: "Marco" <m3driver@iname.com> Subject: RE: [e36m3] [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? oil temp - you're not getting enough oil onto the sensor for it to work correctly. Put it in the pan. head - I'm amazed at how lucky you are. If it never got into the red you should be ok as long as you didn't completely run the system dry - the water temp sensor doesn't read well when there is no water in the system. hopefully the lopsided fan didn't end up munging up the mating surfaces between the pump and the block. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Som Naderi [mailto:som@dimensionracing.com] Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 7:45 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [e36m3] [E36M3] Something is probably not working right, huh? Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 07:40:24 -0700 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Something is probably not working right, huh? Group, Finally got home after a PITA night with the car. Got some issues going on and wondering if someone could explain to me, well, how the cooling system works. Oh and maybe some help with this mish-mash of observations. I'm gonna try to make this as short as possible. Pre-story: A couple months ago, somehow, a few random blades broke off my fan. Don't know how. Not really thinking much of it, I unintentionally ran it lopsided for about a month - til I noticed the increased engine shake during idle. So I pulled the fan. I'm running the Zionsville radiator (increased volume) so apparently it's not a big deal. I was worried about the water pump bearings from running lopsided, but at that point there didn't seem to be any adverse affects. I'm using the JTD block with the SPA gauges and sensors. All temperatures are in Fahrenheit. Car is a 98 Coupe. Story: Drove to San Francisco Thursday night (from San Diego). 7 hour drive. Then drove to Thunderhill on Friday. 3 more hours. Saturday morning at Thunderhill I notice my car is leaking water/coolant. Crap. Yes, yes, I should have done something at this point, but I didn't. I was working on the safety truck anyway. Anyways, leaking is coming from the water pump, but it's slow. Sunday evening - my planned trip back down to San Diego. I fill up the reservoir. As I'm leaving the paddock, I'm noticing the leaking seems worse. Almost a steady (yet thin) stream. I figured I'd give it a go. Rationale: I suspected that, possibly, when the thermostat opened that the *flowing* water/coolant would actually be easier on the water pump seal. I have an oil temp gauge. I figured I could keep a precise eye on the engine temp with this so if I noticed any temperatures out of the ordinary I could catch them quickly and pull over. Also, I had a friend to shadow me for about the first 50 miles in case something went wrong. I get it up to speed (about 75 mph) and I keep a constant eye on the oil temp. It's about 70-75 outside and the temp reads about 170. This has been pretty typical for the car. So far so good. Sun goes down and the outside temp drops to about 60-65 (sometimes as low as 55). The oil temp reads between 158 to 167. Still typical for the car, so. so far so good. I stop to get gas. Water pours *quickly* from the under the car. I get the "low coolant" message as soon as I stop the car. I wait a minute for it to cool, then I fill the reservoir with water before taking off again. I got to Orange County. That's when the water temp gauge on the cluster started moving. It had moved about a half-centimeter to the right. Oil temp gauge, though, was reading low 160s at this point. Therein lies my confusion. My initial reaction was, "well the water's probably low, boiling, whatever, but the oil temp is low and that's really all that matters". But I very quickly realized that that didn't make sense - why would the oil be almost 100 degrees colder than the water? I pulled over, added water, started driving again - "almost home, just a little more" I kept thinking to myself. The oil gauge had gone up to the 170s but when I started driving, it dropped to the mid-150s. The water temp gauge, though, didn't immediately return to 12 o'clock. It stayed at 12:30 or so. It ended up taking a little while for it to come down. Dropping to 68 MPH also helped. So did turning on the heater full blast. It danced a bit between 12 o'clock and 12:30. I figured as along as it stayed "slightly too hot" that things might be alright. But even with the help, it didn't last. I lost the water even faster this time around. I kept my hand hovering over the heater to get an indication of whether I had water in the system or not. When I felt the heater cool to just a warm breeze, I realized I had run out of water. At that moment the water temp gauge started rising again. It never got close to the red, but it got maybe 1/3rd between straight-up and the red zone. However, the oil gauge read high 140s. What the hell? My conclusion: the oil temperature sensor isn't isolated enough to give an accurate oil temperate reading. While the smooth cylindrical part of the sensor fit inside the JTD oil distro block, I wasn't able to get all the threads to screw in. However, since it never leaked oil, I never concerned myself with it. Well, I'm guessing that having the threads of the sensor exposed is allowing heat to dissipate from the sensor metals and resulting in a low reading. Only thing is. again. 100 degrees off?? I'm almost thinking the sensor (or gauge?) is busted, period. Since I was close enough to home, I called AAA and had them tow me the rest of the way. Took them an hour to get there. but what else is new. So my questions are these: - how much disparity can one expect between the oil temperature and the water temperature? - with the amount of movement I described on the water temp gauge, have I put my engine (head gasket) at any significant risk? Again, it never made it close to the red, but it did move significantly from 12 o'clock. - does "sensor isolation" sound like a reasonable analysis of what went wrong with my oil temp gauge? Any and all help on this would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!! - Som ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com Treehouse Racing http://www.treehouseracing.com Elephant Motorsports Inc. http://www.elephantmotorsports.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. A Few Parts for sale... - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 11:15:39 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: A Few Parts for sale... I've got just a few parts cluttering up my garage that I would like to get ride of: 1. e36 HMS Harness bar - attaches to factory bolt positions and requires no modifications to attach. The new ones from HMS cost over $400 and are black, this one won't cost you as much and is a more attractive bright steel (stainless?) finish because it's a slighter older design. I don't need it any longer now that I've got a custom roll bar. This is not just a guide bar, it's an attachment point for harnesses as well. It also has an attachment point for a fire extinguisher and I'll include a camera mount that I've fabricated as an attachment as well. $250 or best offer. 2. Stock e36 exhaust - I upgraded to the UUC so I don't need mine anymore. Any reasonable offer accepted just to move this out of my garage. Prices do not include shipping from 47130. Pictures available on request. Please contact me off list at m3ronin@insightbb.com Thanks, Dave 95 ///M3
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#8. Riasing seats - from Marc Plante
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 11:26:41 -0400 From: "Marc Plante" <marcva@gmail.com> Subject: Riasing seats I know most people are trying to lower the seats in their cars, but I have a pair of SRDs on the factory recaro brackets, and they sit a bit too low. My wife, who is only a shade above 5'2 has trouble seeing very well. Does anyone know of any brackets used to raise the seats about 1-1.5"? Or do I just buy seat bottom pads at OG? TIA, Marc Plante E36 M3/4
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#9. E30 oil leak question - from Scott Spangenberg
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 17:58:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Spangenberg <cpmustang2001@yahoo.com> Subject: E30 oil leak question Sorry to ask this question here, but I'm not a member of any E30 forums (feel free to point me to a good E30 resource). I have a 1987 325is that belonged to my dad. It's a beautiful car with only about 60k miles on the clock. Despite the low miles and pampering, it is starting to show its age in a few ways. Most notably there is a pretty substantial oil leak at the front of the engine .... somewhere. After driving it around for a day it will leave a 6" diameter puddle overnight. I was convinced it was the front crank seal because there is oil getting on all the accessories (PS pump, AC compressor, etc.). However, this weekend I started taking things apart to investigate and the crank pulley and the front housing are dry. I cleaned everything up so I can drive it and look for the leak, but I thought I would ask if there is a common oil leak source on the E30 325's as they age. Thanks for any input! Scott Spangenberg 95 Avus M3 87 325is (my dad's baby) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] E30 oil leak question - from Walter J
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Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 23:27:33 -0400 From: Walter J <m3gtr@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E30 oil leak question Scott Spangenberg wrote: > I thought I would ask if there is a common oil >leak source on the E30 325's as they age. > > > Scott - at the front of the oil filter housing there is a small spring clip and cover for the oil cooler t-stat... it leaks a lot of oil in very subtle way and appears to be a crank seal. There is a kit from BMW that has a new cover , seal and spring and costs approx $14. -- Walter